tangentdave
1 kW
Haha, a fatbike catching up to a car. Fun video, jealous of those trails.
-dave
-dave
jcovaltine said:Fastjohnny,
I'm ordering a tangent ascent mid drive as well. Starting to look at different battery options. I thought I read in your post that you are running a 58 volt pack. How is that working for you? I thought the speed controller is only rated for 50 volts. Also did you ever wish you went with with the bigger 3215 size motor since your setup is on a fat bike? Just trying to get this right the first time.
Jason
FastJohnny said:What bike are you building on?
jcovaltine said:I bought the Rhino by Fatback. I'm having the same problem you had in regards to the chainstay hitting the inner chainring. Dave and I have been going back and forth on what we can do. He has come up with using a smaller chainring. About 3-3/4" which should work. Now he is working making a mount for it.
FastJohnny said:jcovaltine said:I bought the Rhino by Fatback. I'm having the same problem you had in regards to the chainstay hitting the inner chainring. Dave and I have been going back and forth on what we can do. He has come up with using a smaller chainring. About 3-3/4" which should work. Now he is working making a mount for it.
That's a nice bike to build on. The chainstay issue was a huge pain in the ass. The problem is most fatbikes have a 100mm bottom bracket shell, but then the cups that screw into it stick out 15 mm or so and use a solid axle. When you go to a 100mm isis bottom bracket it pulls the chainring in close enough to hit the chainstay. A smaller chainring will fix the issue, but then you need to mate a 64mm chainring to a crank and freewheel somehow, and it reduces your overall torque.
I've put some thought into it, and if you could somehow get it to work with a solid axle crank, maybe one with those newer cinch systems. Someone smarter than me might be able to figure something out, and make stock spacing work.
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/race-face-aeffect-cinch-fatbike-crank-arm-set-175mm-for-170mm-rear-black?gclid=Cj0KEQjwoYi4BRDF_PHHu6rI7NMBEiQAKZ-JuOyBy4aqMwBWblpoloe_HzyPG_i2Cvv6ggD-NdzNlZoaAs4o8P8HAQ
FastJohnny said:That's great news. I'm sure if anyone can make it happen, Dave can. I should mention I did end up upgrading the brakes from the stock Tektro Auriga's with 180/160 rotors. They did okay, but with all the weight and speed I wanted downhill brakes. Ended up going with Shimano Zee front and back, and IceTech 203 mm rotors. I should be able to get them on this week sometime, but with the weather I'm not sure when I'll be able to get out and ride.
HamsFitness said:How's the Fattie going?
I am curious about two things:
What kind of mileage you are getting from your battery packs and what packs you run?
Also, have you noticed any frame flex from the torque?
I ask these as I assume the lower pressure, fat tyres, eat up more battery than a standard 2" tyre and my Tangent kit looks to twist the rear triangle of my full suspension stumpjumper....
FastJohnny said:jcovaltine said:I bought the Rhino by Fatback. I'm having the same problem you had in regards to the chainstay hitting the inner chainring. Dave and I have been going back and forth on what we can do. He has come up with using a smaller chainring. About 3-3/4" which should work. Now he is working making a mount for it.
That's a nice bike to build on. The chainstay issue was a huge pain in the ass. The problem is most fatbikes have a 100mm bottom bracket shell, but then the cups that screw into it stick out 15 mm or so and use a solid axle. When you go to a 100mm isis bottom bracket it pulls the chainring in close enough to hit the chainstay. A smaller chainring will fix the issue, but then you need to mate a 64mm chainring to a crank and freewheel somehow, and it reduces your overall torque.
I've put some thought into it, and if you could somehow get it to work with a solid axle crank, maybe one with those newer cinch systems. Someone smarter than me might be able to figure something out, and make stock spacing work.
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/race-face-aeffect-cinch-fatbike-crank-arm-set-175mm-for-170mm-rear-black?gclid=Cj0KEQjwoYi4BRDF_PHHu6rI7NMBEiQAKZ-JuOyBy4aqMwBWblpoloe_HzyPG_i2Cvv6ggD-NdzNlZoaAs4o8P8HAQ
HamsFitness said:Also depends what i have my A gain set to. The higher means more flex! 3220 kit at 200 agsin means bendy frame time!
HamsFitness said:The most I've seen is about 115, maybe 120 recently but that seems to be rare....not sure what I'd need to do to it to get it above that as I've ridden some hefty muddy hills to test it
I am mulling over the idea of an internally geared hub on mine but deciding which one is proving tough or even if it is of benefit.
I know another Tangent build has a Rohloff in play but can't remember who.