Noob Hubz!

Nordle

100 W
Joined
Jul 20, 2015
Messages
182
Location
The Alps
Heyo!
It took a while, but now I finally decided to build an Electric Longboard. I live in the Alps, and I'm an avid snowboarder but miss that in summer :(
This will be my first E-Board & R/C project, perhaps I need some help, thats why I create this post. And to give you a little back, learned so much in the past months here on E-S, and got so many impressions.

And here's my Setup:
-Turnigy SK3 6374 149kv (Hobbyking)
-VESC (Enertion Beta)
(^just x1 cause I'm a bit broke atm. Going dual diag some day)
-2x 3S 8000mah 30C Zippy (Hobbyking)
-Turnigy Accucell-6 50W 6A (Hobbyking)
-Wii Nunchuck + 2x Arduino Nanos + 2x nrf24l01+

Still waiting for the Arduinos and my VESC, so i started building my motor mounts.....
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Very nice, that is some serious machining/material removal you have done there, will be good to see how the whole build comes together! Will also be great to see how a single hub motor goes, are you going to be able to rotate the mounted wheel as well?

Also, would it have been better to leave a lip for the bearing to push on to, and use a small spacer in there too? not sure on your full design, but there can be a sneaky little friction point inside with it bolted on tight. Did you use locktite or a keyway on the stator, or both?

Got the board/one in mind to use?

Keep up the sweet work!
 
Can only move it from rear left, to front right (or what do you mean with rotate?:D)
There is a small lip on the bearing seat (0,5mm maybe can't see on my pic's), and a washer between Bearings (not enough place for a ''real'' spacer). The stator has a thread at the end that holds it on the axle, and i'll use some Loctite when i finally put everything together.
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~edit: dat thread;)
 

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Pediglide said:
Looks nice. I'm just worried about the back of the motor getting too close to the baseplate.
omg did'nt think about that :D Now the parts are on my working place, will see that tomorrow but I'm confident.
baseplate.JPG
~edit: it fits
 
After a while some small updates.
I did only add some screws and a closed bearing as skirt bearing.

Then I'm stock coring out the Urethane. With the lathe , it frays only.better results with the milling machine.but it's a very old machine (no CNC) and I do not think I 'm able to mill a perfect circle.
I'll probably have to wait until my vacation is over and then make it at work on the CNC. Or do you guys have some nice idea?
 

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Nordel said:

..but it's a very old machine (no CNC) and I do not think I'm able to mill a perfect circle.
I'll probably have to wait until my vacation is over and then make it at work on the CNC. Or do you guys have some nice idea?

Greets

I did mine on the lathe and got a result like that, but using a diamond tip going back and forth slowly (about 2 mins a wheel) you can get it pretty smooth. You don't want it fully smooth anyway. If you get rid of the big ribs around it and any loose bits, thats perfect. You want some hollows and rough surfacing to help the glue adhere it to the aluminium tube. Otherwise a forsner bit works well, if you can get the right size.

Use a urethane glue - you need a level of plex. A tube of the stuff used to hold car trim down or 2 part epoxy is good. Be sure to roughen up the aluminium as well.
 
Ok,
now i cored out the wheel, CNC ftw (were in holidays before). Still not sure wich glue I'll use..
I finally got my VESC and soldered it together, it works via BLDC tool..
Soldered together Arduino-Nunchuk-remote but didn't work, so i did it again, and still doesn't work ><
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=70021&start=100 would be very grateful for any help
Spend many hours with that remote but that's simply not my area of expertise. However, today before I totally freaked out, I decided to do something else. And so I made a battery enclosure from scrap I had at home. And because we all like pics here it is:
Bat top.JPG..cow leather..
Bat angle.JPG..need some holes in the wood for cables..
Bat near.JPG..sample burned with soldering iron..
Bat inside.JPG..I'll do something similar for esc & other electric parts on the opposite site..
 
Cause I couldn't get my Arduinos work, I ordered a Quanum Remote from HK as temporary solution. With it then also went off to test drive at midnight .. was my first e-board ride ever! Amazing! :D

The next day I drove to work, still amazing, then I drove home but in the middle of a steep part I noticed a power loss. I immediately stopped and saw that one of my two Lipos (2xZippy 3s 8Ah 30C) was blowing up, i took it away from the circuit and measured both Lipos voltages (Had this in my pocket http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tester-Monitor-voltage-Buzzer/dp/B00B6V3LNK). The broken one didn't show anything, the other one 3.3x-3.3x-3.2x volts, when I started from my working place all cell's were above 3,7v, the incident happend approx. after 1/2 km.
That was the very first cycle of my Lipos and I didn't charge them before use, could that be the issue? I doubt 3,8v per cell should last for 2-3km's of test riding. Do you think the other Lipo could have taken damage to? Or any ideas why this happend?

They should can handle 240A if I'm right (8Ah x 30C = 240A), not to weak I think?
 
Sounds like you ran the voltage down too low. I used lifep04's with a total of 60c discharge rating and I toasted a good number of them by simply riding too hard with tall gearing. You are using a 1 : 1 ratio so you are going to pull a lot of amps when getting up to speed. This causes the voltage to sag on a small battery pack, when the voltage dips severely the amperage draw goes up in order to output the wattage demand. In short, it's a bad scene for a lipo. This is where a low voltage protection circuit or overbuilt battery come into play.
 
Could be just a bad pack, the other one seems ok. I'd put a watt meter in there to be sure and have the LVC always set at 3.2v/3v.

For me higher voltage is better. It's also better for hill climbing so you dont have crazy amp spikes and heat.
 
I spent some time in Spain, nice vacation! Unfortunately without board.. my new lipo arrived one day after my take-off:(
But now I'm back to E-SkaTeBoaRDs! and even my board works :mrgreen:

chaka said:
Sounds like you ran the voltage down too low. I used lifep04's with a total of 60c discharge rating and I toasted a good number of them by simply riding too hard with tall gearing. You are using a 1 : 1 ratio so you are going to pull a lot of amps when getting up to speed. This causes the voltage to sag on a small battery pack, when the voltage dips severely the amperage draw goes up in order to output the wattage demand. In short, it's a bad scene for a lipo. This is where a low voltage protection circuit or overbuilt battery come into play.
I think that was the problem, I ''almost'' finished my board (nähh... let's call it my prototype) now, the low voltage alarm is set to 3,5v and it beeps sometimes when I'm riding hard at 3,8v.

Here are some pic's of the finished board:IMG_0724 - Kopie.JPGView attachment 1IMG_0729 - Kopie.JPG
It's awesome, has nice top speed didn't measure it but definetely over 30 km/h, range is 10-20km's varies a bit, torque is a bit low but don't forget I'm in the Alps;)
crazy hobby... for the moment it's finished, but this isn't the end.
 
you asked about ideas for producing rubber that will fit the motors... milling them, especially something so low duro is difficult and those wheels are expensive to begin with. You can get good results and good rubber (better than china clone rubber) by pouring into a cheap silicone mold with polyurethane that's a simple two part mix and then you do some post curing in an oven. making the mold you can use a hard silicone and shape it using a 3d print. At most you'd need a vacuum chamber and a decent vacuum pump. Other than that you simply need the silicone for the mold, the 3d print, and the polyurethane you need to pour, and an oven that you wont be using to cook food.
i dont get how youre adhering the rubber to the metal. I dont see grooves. Maybe youre just sticking it. As it looks making a 3d print of the rubber shape you want looks simple
 
I had good results coring out the wheels with the cnc milling machine. They are epoxied to the aluminium can and it holds very good.
 
-New remote housing (just a lot of tape, glue and a bit of heatshrink)
-New axle mount, the motor always turned a few degress on the thread, now it's bolt to the axle (can't see on the pic but works flawless
-And last point, not finished but it works with some alligator clips, connected windings from delta(149kv) to star(~86kv).
star.jpg
I still have to connect sensors, so that my new dual build will have all of the nice stuff.
can't wait....
IMG_1118.JPG
:mrgreen:
 
Nice! That's a lot of work with the re-wind and the sensors, but I'm pretty sure it's gonna ride like heaven with those 107mm Electric Flywheels. I'd use 12s to keep the windings cool and have better startup even with the big wheels. Don't worry about top speed, the acceleration slows down a lot when you hit 30 mph because of too much air drag.
 
Will use the new ones on 10S Li-Ion (NCR18650GA Sanyo x 6P = 60A) I don't worry about speed but a bit about Amps^^ ...but huge 21 Ah..
I want climb mountains and do some forest paths:D
 
Nice u hooked it up so u can do star or delta? Can u switch outside of the motor?

I'm finding keeping things cool..doing mountains or anything sustained..I'm going to get some fins in the motor airholes. I think it could help a lot. 12s will decrease heat compare to 10s.
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
Nice u hooked it up so u can do star or delta? Can u switch outside of the motor?
Yes, i can switch them outside but will solder them together inside the motor next time I take it appart. There would be also the option for a star/delta switch but no need on a skate i think.

For now I'm going with the 10S6P Sanyo NCR18650GA pack, just have cells and BMS. My only doubt are the 60 amps this pack can deliver to my dual motors.
Didn't get any heat problems on my 6S single 149kv hub motor. It went hot but I was still able to touch it easily (so maybe 50-70°C), I think the duals will be fine here.

Lever and Hummina (and ohter hub folks) du you run Lipo or LiIon?
 
If a switch could be done for star to delta on the remote that sounds great to me. Don't know if that's possible.

I juuuust ruined a lipo velcroed to my deck, which is good as now I'm finishing my li-ion pack. 48 cells 12s4p lg hg2 cells with 20amp discharge. If ur doing the vesc why not just do 12s? Better performance and friendlier on the motor and battery. Maybe ur bms won't do it. I'm skipping the bms
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
If a switch could be done for star to delta on the remote that sounds great to me. Don't know if that's possible.
I think that would be possible, it's already done on some ebikes and in many industrial motors.

Hummina Shadeeba said:
I juuuust ruined a lipo velcroed to my deck, which is good as now I'm finishing my li-ion pack. 48 cells 12s4p lg hg2 cells with 20amp discharge. If ur doing the vesc why not just do 12s? Better performance and friendlier on the motor and battery. Maybe ur bms won't do it. I'm skipping the bms
I have 60 cells, doubt 10S6P (=36V@60A) would stress batterys less than 12S5P (=44V@50A). I like it also to not hit my controller or motor limits wich both are 12S (for sure the motor could handle more^^). However in this case I think will get close or over my battery discharge limit:(
 
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