new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?
- Thread starter emaayan
- Start date
Grizzl-E
100 W
juanfeli said:
Not sure if you can use the phaserunner on an astro motor. It doesn't have the lowest inductance requirements or the highest erpm capability. That said im going to be using mine on my c3k once it gets here. Ill post my configuration if anyone else has a phaserunner they want to use with this. Im hoping its a good match, its so small you barely notice it. Amazing for a 4+kw controller.
On that note, can someone confirm the pole count in this motor? Haven't been able to find it yet.
gman1971
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2015
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- 976
More updates:
This weekend was a major milestone for the trike: 200 miles with nothing more than a couple of small glitches and some mechanical tweaks. The Cyclone seems to be holding well at 6.5 kW so I have no complains. The chain arrangement in the front is working well too... I was worried that running two chains so close could be a problem, but the tensioner setup really works well.
So, in order to ensure things were going wll I did a major teardown, mostly to check for issues and wear, all inside and out; I also wanted to check the battery placement to see if things moved and whatnot, and for any potential damage anywhere. Nothing so far.
I also took the time to trim and paint the motor mounting brackets. So the motor mount is now in an state that I would considered finished. Haven't had any motor flex to date so that work for me; not even at 6.5 kW.
I also ended up drilling a bolt right through the boom and tightened it to stun so the boom flex is now almost gone; some still there, but that was expected since 6.5 kW is no slouch.
The Cyclone throttle ignition key now controls the entire trike like a real car: If you turn the ignition ON, everything powers up, including Cycle Analyst and the HOTAS controls. The alarm remains always ON regardless of ignition switch state and has the ability to cut-off ignition from the remote.
I've also changed the way the DB25 plug is accessed so now it won't get wet when it rains. Charging the packs on this guy is fairly easy considering you have so many packs inside. I've gotten 72 miles on a charge so I am happy about that.
This weekend also marked the end of the SLX era for me; an era that started with my Cyclone eBike back in November 2015. After careful consideration I decided to run Shimano XT 10-speed Dynasys shifters with instant release and multi-release; this has convinced me beyond any doubt that you really get what you pay for in terms of cycling groupset stuff. The instant release and multi-release are godsends: no more having to shift twice to get the thing going fast... now I can shift the gears like if I was running 5 speed sequential race car transmission (rather than a 10 speed and having to double click on every upshift) and that allows for a significantly quicker trike.
I've replaced the rear tire with a slightly wider Schwalbe Marathon. The Hemisphere brand tire I was running wasn't as nice on the wet compared to my front smaller 20" Marathons so I decided to change those.
I also added a ziptie to hold the rear upper chainguide tube so it doesn't rub the wheel under hard cornering; yes, hard cornering; I've already taken some seriously tight turns on this guy at high speed, and the grip seems infinite.... maybe a tad of understeer if you really push it, but no oversteer to date which is good. So the trike handling came out really nice. Without the hard cases the trike weight distribution is close to 80 20, where 80% of the weight (including rider) is sitting over the front wheels so the trike is nearly impossible to flip under normal driving conditions, locking the rear wheel might still yield some scary moments tho, so the rear brake is better left alone, or used sparingly for long descents as a drag brake... or as a parking brake.
G.
This weekend was a major milestone for the trike: 200 miles with nothing more than a couple of small glitches and some mechanical tweaks. The Cyclone seems to be holding well at 6.5 kW so I have no complains. The chain arrangement in the front is working well too... I was worried that running two chains so close could be a problem, but the tensioner setup really works well.
So, in order to ensure things were going wll I did a major teardown, mostly to check for issues and wear, all inside and out; I also wanted to check the battery placement to see if things moved and whatnot, and for any potential damage anywhere. Nothing so far.
I also took the time to trim and paint the motor mounting brackets. So the motor mount is now in an state that I would considered finished. Haven't had any motor flex to date so that work for me; not even at 6.5 kW.
I also ended up drilling a bolt right through the boom and tightened it to stun so the boom flex is now almost gone; some still there, but that was expected since 6.5 kW is no slouch.
The Cyclone throttle ignition key now controls the entire trike like a real car: If you turn the ignition ON, everything powers up, including Cycle Analyst and the HOTAS controls. The alarm remains always ON regardless of ignition switch state and has the ability to cut-off ignition from the remote.
I've also changed the way the DB25 plug is accessed so now it won't get wet when it rains. Charging the packs on this guy is fairly easy considering you have so many packs inside. I've gotten 72 miles on a charge so I am happy about that.
This weekend also marked the end of the SLX era for me; an era that started with my Cyclone eBike back in November 2015. After careful consideration I decided to run Shimano XT 10-speed Dynasys shifters with instant release and multi-release; this has convinced me beyond any doubt that you really get what you pay for in terms of cycling groupset stuff. The instant release and multi-release are godsends: no more having to shift twice to get the thing going fast... now I can shift the gears like if I was running 5 speed sequential race car transmission (rather than a 10 speed and having to double click on every upshift) and that allows for a significantly quicker trike.
I've replaced the rear tire with a slightly wider Schwalbe Marathon. The Hemisphere brand tire I was running wasn't as nice on the wet compared to my front smaller 20" Marathons so I decided to change those.
I also added a ziptie to hold the rear upper chainguide tube so it doesn't rub the wheel under hard cornering; yes, hard cornering; I've already taken some seriously tight turns on this guy at high speed, and the grip seems infinite.... maybe a tad of understeer if you really push it, but no oversteer to date which is good. So the trike handling came out really nice. Without the hard cases the trike weight distribution is close to 80 20, where 80% of the weight (including rider) is sitting over the front wheels so the trike is nearly impossible to flip under normal driving conditions, locking the rear wheel might still yield some scary moments tho, so the rear brake is better left alone, or used sparingly for long descents as a drag brake... or as a parking brake.
G.
juanfeli
100 W
Have a look at this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ojifdokMKw
Grizzl-E said:
juanfeli
100 W
Looking forward to see how the phase runner will work with this motor and the parameters that you'll find. This video is in Russian from the thread that G shared. May be it will help you with the pole count. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cyeWADNLNM
Grizzl-E said:
Hoo rah! My kit arrived from Luna. Battery, also from Luna, is still en route. I did notice that the battery connector on the controller is red and not yellow. Am I going to have to do some connector swapping?
Sent from my MT2L03 using Tapatalk
Sent from my MT2L03 using Tapatalk
Changing connectors between the battery and controller:
https://www.electricbike.com/matching-connectors-from-battery-to-controller/
evolutiongts
10 kW
Comparison between stock cyclone 3000w motor mounts (left) and upgraded motor mount solid aluminum block (right)
- No more bent bolts, or damaged mounts.
- Stiffer than stock mounts, virtually eliminates flex
- Bulletproof, over 1000 miles tested. Off road and on the street. 74V.
- No more bent bolts, or damaged mounts.
- Stiffer than stock mounts, virtually eliminates flex
- Bulletproof, over 1000 miles tested. Off road and on the street. 74V.
gman1971
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2015
- Messages
- 976
BLASPHEMY.... A BAFANG picture in CYCLONE SACRED LAND!!! UUUGGGHHHH.... BURN THE HERETIC... LOLOLOL...
G.
spinningmagnets said:
Changing connectors between the battery and controller:
https://www.electricbike.com/matching-connectors-from-battery-to-controller/
gman1971
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2015
- Messages
- 976
evolutiongts said:Comparison between stock cyclone 3000w motor mounts (left) and upgraded motor mount solid aluminum block (right)
- No more bent bolts, or damaged mounts.
- Stiffer than stock mounts, virtually eliminates flex
- Bulletproof, over 1000 miles tested. Off road and on the street. 74V.
Cool, but what I did works for me at 6.5kW; just the washer mod, the robocam plate and two extra brackets to hold the motor to the frame (required so motor doesn't flip up). I did it for a total of 10 dollars in parts. Right now my concern would be with the flex from the boom at 5000 watt than the motor.
IMO 99 bucks for a drilled block of AL seems a bit excessive to me but hey, is not what I say, is what ppl are willing to pay.
G.
dirkdiggler
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2012
- Messages
- 641
So, do you need to use the cyclone bottom bracket or can you use one from the LBS? I need to know if I want to use an ISIS BB, do I need to purchase the cyclone version. I can never tell from the pics if there is any difference.
Also still curious if you can run this kit direct to the rear sprocket, say maybe just use a 32 tooth on the rear. Would I need to lower the pinion sprocket tooth count?
Thanks
Also still curious if you can run this kit direct to the rear sprocket, say maybe just use a 32 tooth on the rear. Would I need to lower the pinion sprocket tooth count?
Thanks
tomjasz
1 GW
Being put off by something as simple as a connector isn't a good sign!worldpax said:
I think EVERY builder should learn to solder an do connectors from day one.
rant over
Although writing that article was indeed in response to a Luna request to help new builders who had bought a Bafang product, I took it upon myself to compartmentalize the info into three parts, so that the BB cartridge removal (part one) would be relevant for ANY mid drive owner, even competing systems. Part two was sorted in a way that it would be useful to many new builders, even someone who had bought a hubmotor kit.
If you were cynical, it would be reasonable for you to fear I was trying to slip in a BBSHD pic into a Cyclone thread, but the Cyclone is capable of much more power, so they are really in two separate classes, and not competing for the same customers. Here's part one (BB cartridge removal, and the tools needed) for those who missed the link before.
https://www.electricbike.com/removing-bottom-bracket-cartridge/
https://www.electricbike.com/matching-connectors-from-battery-to-controller/
If you were cynical, it would be reasonable for you to fear I was trying to slip in a BBSHD pic into a Cyclone thread, but the Cyclone is capable of much more power, so they are really in two separate classes, and not competing for the same customers. Here's part one (BB cartridge removal, and the tools needed) for those who missed the link before.
https://www.electricbike.com/removing-bottom-bracket-cartridge/
https://www.electricbike.com/matching-connectors-from-battery-to-controller/
gman1971 said:
This motor can up to 8000w but with very lo eff.
Watch my test -
The EFF with 5kw power input is a approx 70% on 63v. if you will add 6.5kw , the EFF will be approx 55%. It means that about 3 kilowatts will go to heat.
It seems to me 6.5 it is possible to give on dispersals quickly. It is long to give 6.5kw not expediently as nearly a half of energy goes to heat.
gman1971
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2015
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- 976
Nice Chupa!!! Thanks!!!
The C3000 motor is a BEAST on 6.5 kW so it is good to know I can still crank 2 more kW out of this cyclone motor if I ever want to.
Spinningmagnets:
I was just trying to be funny... I personally don't care about Bafang, maybe in the future, but not now. You also confirmed what I've been trying to tell everyone who is hesitant to buy a Cyclone over a Bafang: all mid drive installations are basically the same.
G.
The C3000 motor is a BEAST on 6.5 kW so it is good to know I can still crank 2 more kW out of this cyclone motor if I ever want to.
Spinningmagnets:
I was just trying to be funny... I personally don't care about Bafang, maybe in the future, but not now. You also confirmed what I've been trying to tell everyone who is hesitant to buy a Cyclone over a Bafang: all mid drive installations are basically the same.
G.
Hi Chupa just trying to understand your tables and why you went back to the smaller 1680w cyclone motor as it was more efficient and lighter. How much efficiency difference at 3 , 4 and 5kw input ? and what is the weight difference between the Cyclone1680w cyclone 3000w ?
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=26
sells both units, seems they upgraded the mounts for the older kit, however I remember many many posts about bad gearbox or controller.
sells both units, seems they upgraded the mounts for the older kit, however I remember many many posts about bad gearbox or controller.
StinkyGoalieGuy
100 W
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2008
- Messages
- 298
gman1971 said:
gman, I'm sure I missed it, but how are you running 6.5kW through the stock cyclone controller? Assuming you are at around 72 volts, that's about 90 amps. I thought the stock controller would only push between 40 and 50 amps. Thanks!
gman1971
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2015
- Messages
- 976
StinkyGoalieGuy said:
Yes, I shunt-modded the controller with a piece of copper wire. I guess too many people have obnoxious gman1971 on the ignore list... LOL. So my controller is now effectively capable of unlimited amps. (I've pulled up to 90 amps before the controller seems to cut out) 90 amps x 74 volts = 6.6 kW... trust me, is wicked fast. Controller barely gets warm to the touch; motor mount hasn't come undone with the washer mod and robocam plate idea.
I will be getting a better controller when (and if) this one dies; so nothing like testing the limits of the Cyclone kit at twice of the max power rating. Allows me to get to 50 mph with ease; problem is tho, batteries get drained REAL FAST once you start dishing 4 and 5 kW speed runs.
G.
StinkyGoalieGuy
100 W
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2008
- Messages
- 298
Thanks, G. This is definitely the best bang for your buck kit for mid-drive. If my current project doesn't work out, i'll end up going for this or a Tangent kit.
