kje
100 W
I used 16awg wires.
How can I limit/adjust the amps?
How can I limit/adjust the amps?
Homemade Battery Packs
- Thread starter DrkAngel
- Start date
DrkAngel
1 GW
Been running my 33.3V 43.2Ah pack on my Snow Beast.
22.2V 43.2Ah with add on 11.1V 43.2Ah module
After setting for about 1 year @ ~ 3.90V all cells were equal within 1/100th V.
Charged and balanced ...
Been making all the cars jealous!
I stop quick (studded tires) and watch cars go sliding into, or through, intersections!
Snow Beast has a 36V 25A controller.
I am noticing a marked decline in umph as pack voltage drops off from full.
33.3V charges to 37.35V but sags toward controller LVC (~31V) at full throttle in the cold.
Am considering swapping out 36V controller with the Yi-Yun 24-36V+ capable controller.
This will allow full volts-amps to full battery capacity.
I will monitor pack voltage, use ... manually.
Large pack! Have never neared low voltage.
22.2V 43.2Ah with add on 11.1V 43.2Ah module
After setting for about 1 year @ ~ 3.90V all cells were equal within 1/100th V.
Charged and balanced ...
Been making all the cars jealous!
I stop quick (studded tires) and watch cars go sliding into, or through, intersections!
Snow Beast has a 36V 25A controller.
I am noticing a marked decline in umph as pack voltage drops off from full.
33.3V charges to 37.35V but sags toward controller LVC (~31V) at full throttle in the cold.
Am considering swapping out 36V controller with the Yi-Yun 24-36V+ capable controller.
This will allow full volts-amps to full battery capacity.
I will monitor pack voltage, use ... manually.
Large pack! Have never neared low voltage.
LeftieBiker
100 kW
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2012
- Messages
- 1,107
A little off-topic, but I figure this is a good place to ask about this: I just got my new 2015-leftover Ping 24V 20AH pack, and when I connected the BMS and charged it, 7 of the 8 balance LEDs came on within seconds, while the 8th took several minutes to even flicker, and then almost ten minutes to come on full. Should I be worried, or is this sort of initial imbalance normal? I emailed Ping, but haven't heard back yet. I honestly don't remember if this happened with my 2013 pack or not, when it was new.
markz
100 TW
As I was building my DIY bike 1300 Lumen light, I bought a bunch of copper pieces.
Bushing - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/search.products.html#!p=0&q=9005-054%3Arelevance
Coupling - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/search.products.html#!q=9000-005
Couplings are to connect the same size pipe. Bushings are for changing from 1 size pipe to a different size.
LiFePO4 A123 M1A
Fits perfectly
A bit of room with the coupling, can be made snug with tire tubes, tape etc.
I think the bushing is the exact same size as regular copper pipe.
Its not an ideal battery string, because you want parallel first then series. This is an off the shelf idea I have had for some time.
I always tried PVC piping which might be better, but nothing comes close to this fit. The other fits in 1" PVC were very tight. It could be worked around with some sanding down of the ID, how you would go about that I got no clue. 1.25" PVC was a huge gap, but again you can throw some strips of balsa wood in there firm it up quick.
Cooled batteries?
http://www.petersenproducts.com/Specifications/Pipe_Copper.aspx
Using 1" nominal (1.125" OD) with 1-1/4"
LMFAO, batteries would never last long if you went that way, the need to cool the batteries by under-sizing the battery pack.
Bushing - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/search.products.html#!p=0&q=9005-054%3Arelevance
Coupling - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/search.products.html#!q=9000-005
Couplings are to connect the same size pipe. Bushings are for changing from 1 size pipe to a different size.
LiFePO4 A123 M1A
Fits perfectly
A bit of room with the coupling, can be made snug with tire tubes, tape etc.
I think the bushing is the exact same size as regular copper pipe.
Its not an ideal battery string, because you want parallel first then series. This is an off the shelf idea I have had for some time.
I always tried PVC piping which might be better, but nothing comes close to this fit. The other fits in 1" PVC were very tight. It could be worked around with some sanding down of the ID, how you would go about that I got no clue. 1.25" PVC was a huge gap, but again you can throw some strips of balsa wood in there firm it up quick.
Cooled batteries?
http://www.petersenproducts.com/Specifications/Pipe_Copper.aspx
Using 1" nominal (1.125" OD) with 1-1/4"
LMFAO, batteries would never last long if you went that way, the need to cool the batteries by under-sizing the battery pack.
DrkAngel
1 GW
I mentioned previously that glass tube fuses-holders weren't holding up too well. (40A)
Well ...
Testing for a proper replacement.
7s (29.4V charged) should work nicely with 32V rated automobile blade fuses.
Mini blade looks reasonable and uses less room!
8ga blade fuse holder seems unnecessarily large.
10ga mini blade holder is much better and with a little rubber seal removal, looks standard blade capable!
(40A fuses available!)
Well ...
Testing for a proper replacement.
7s (29.4V charged) should work nicely with 32V rated automobile blade fuses.
Mini blade looks reasonable and uses less room!
8ga blade fuse holder seems unnecessarily large.
10ga mini blade holder is much better and with a little rubber seal removal, looks standard blade capable!
(40A fuses available!)
DrkAngel
1 GW
I would not blame the AGC fuseDrkAngel said:I mentioned previously that glass tube fuses-holders weren't holding up too well. (40A)
Well ...
Fuse holder contacted ends of fuse poorly, creating hot points and eventually arcing which amplified heat!
(Copper end contacts acquired tarnish and corrosion over the years leading to poor contact >> arcing >> high temperature >> tempering copper contacts and detensioning spring >> inflexible contact-poor contact pressure >> worse arcing >> extreme heat etc!)
In vehicle fuseboxes, fuses are firmly contacted on 2 sides of each metal end cap.
Other types of holders firmly contact a large area of the end caps, ensuring good contact-low temperature operation.
AGC glass tube fuses are typically very durable and compatible with very high voltages due to a very long fusible element.
DC volt rating is dependent on broken link arc distance. Avoid fuse able link with thin center portion = short higher current arc gap.
DrkAngel
1 GW
DC Fuses 32VDC - 58VDC - 80VDC - 125VDC
eBike Toolbox _ $
I will be using Mini Blade fuses for my ≤32V batteries ..
and will try
J Case Low Profile for my ≤58V batteries ...
eBike Toolbox _ $
I will be using Mini Blade fuses for my ≤32V batteries ..
and will try
J Case Low Profile for my ≤58V batteries ...
DrkAngel
1 GW
2 x 7s 25.9V 25.92Ah batteries, several thousand miles on each, are really perking up with the warm weather!
Runs my comfort cruiser 24V eZip LS at ~20mph and my pedal assist 24V eZip at 21mph+ (motor only)
Also helps that tires don't go soft after sitting in the cold.
2015 "Eco Ride", oem gearing, cruises at 17mph+!
For economy and battery longevity I intend on "retiring" one of my 25.9V 25.92Ah packs, dedicated for its use.
2008 iZip Mountain Trailz will receive other.
Building 2 more 7s 25.9V 25.92Ah packs, from cells I tested for unrealized eMotorcycle build.
Will also build a 3s 11.1V 60.48Ah or 51.84Ah w/inverter pack for a dedicated Turbo.
EZips have a 3 position (on\off\on) 2 pack switch.
With a simple rewire, switch can run 7s 25.9V pack (485w motor output) in position 1. - 20mph
Position 2 runs 7s and 3s pack in series for 10s 37V (~695w motor output) - 27mph (30mph w\moderate pedal assist)
Note - eZip RMB battery packs often suffer from poor contact and rattling in rack.
This tends to be annoying and eventually damages locks from rattling and contacts by overheat from arcing.
After several attempted "cures", bending rack, wedges, tape etc ... best solution was simply adding rubber type bumpers under packs.
Precise thickness and density, sizes pack to require modest pressure to lower pack while engaging lock ... works beautifully!
Runs my comfort cruiser 24V eZip LS at ~20mph and my pedal assist 24V eZip at 21mph+ (motor only)
Also helps that tires don't go soft after sitting in the cold.
2015 "Eco Ride", oem gearing, cruises at 17mph+!
For economy and battery longevity I intend on "retiring" one of my 25.9V 25.92Ah packs, dedicated for its use.
2008 iZip Mountain Trailz will receive other.
Building 2 more 7s 25.9V 25.92Ah packs, from cells I tested for unrealized eMotorcycle build.
Will also build a 3s 11.1V 60.48Ah or 51.84Ah w/inverter pack for a dedicated Turbo.
EZips have a 3 position (on\off\on) 2 pack switch.
With a simple rewire, switch can run 7s 25.9V pack (485w motor output) in position 1. - 20mph
Position 2 runs 7s and 3s pack in series for 10s 37V (~695w motor output) - 27mph (30mph w\moderate pedal assist)
Note - eZip RMB battery packs often suffer from poor contact and rattling in rack.
This tends to be annoying and eventually damages locks from rattling and contacts by overheat from arcing.
After several attempted "cures", bending rack, wedges, tape etc ... best solution was simply adding rubber type bumpers under packs.
Precise thickness and density, sizes pack to require modest pressure to lower pack while engaging lock ... works beautifully!
DrkAngel
1 GW
Turbo Switch ThreadDrkAngel said:
Noob - here -read lots posts but one lingering question.
Building 10S4P pack with Samsung 3E cells (about 3200mah/cell)
Ordered BMS/PCM from BesTechcPower model HCX-D132, rated 10A cont charge, 30A cont discharge.
??? is:
Do I need a charger with balancing leads connected to each cell with this BMS (which I think has balancing)
or just a constant current, 5A, 42V charger i.e. SuPower???
Can someone chime in and/or recommend a charger for above setup.
Much appreciated
Building 10S4P pack with Samsung 3E cells (about 3200mah/cell)
Ordered BMS/PCM from BesTechcPower model HCX-D132, rated 10A cont charge, 30A cont discharge.
??? is:
Do I need a charger with balancing leads connected to each cell with this BMS (which I think has balancing)
or just a constant current, 5A, 42V charger i.e. SuPower???
Can someone chime in and/or recommend a charger for above setup.
Much appreciated
teslanv
1 MW
If you are wiring up a BMS, all you need is a CC/CV power supply or charger, with the appropriate voltage and Max current output. Options would include the Grin Satiator, or Mean Well PS, or a Kingpan charger.Geekineer said:
10A is a pretty good charge rate, but with only 4 cells in parallel, it will be a bit hard on the cells. You would be better to keep the charge rate under 5A.
DrkAngel
1 GW
See - MeanWell Mods - S-150-48
For budget 42V 3A+ charger.
Includes instructions for voltage and amperage mods-adjustments.
For budget 42V 3A+ charger.
Includes instructions for voltage and amperage mods-adjustments.
Solarpower
100 mW
Got a stupid question here.. Easiest way to test 36V homemade battery pack with no ebike available? 3 12V bulbs in series? No problem with full voltage of 42V?
Skalabala
1 kW
Solarpower said:
Yes that will work. Lets say you use 12V bulb from a car, voltage is 14.2+- when engine is running.
DrkAngel
1 GW
.
.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SONY LiPo Mapped!
Building my next battery packs using Sony LiPo.
I decided to precisely map charged capacity at specific voltages ...
These cells look excellent for prolonged usable life by reducing charged voltage!
.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SONY LiPo Mapped!
Building my next battery packs using Sony LiPo.
I decided to precisely map charged capacity at specific voltages ...
These cells look excellent for prolonged usable life by reducing charged voltage!
Allex
100 MW
Not home made but a question about P groups.
This is a 15s6p config
Why did they connect all 6 cells on the B- but the rest, like B5 are not connected, I can only see small resistors making the P connection.
If I would want to do a capacity test of each P group I would need connect all those 6 cells together some how. Looks like a PITA.
This is a 15s6p config
Why did they connect all 6 cells on the B- but the rest, like B5 are not connected, I can only see small resistors making the P connection.
If I would want to do a capacity test of each P group I would need connect all those 6 cells together some how. Looks like a PITA.
DrkAngel
1 GW
B+ and B- require full current to controller.
Resistors on the intermediate P require only a minuscule balance current.
Resistors on the intermediate P require only a minuscule balance current.
Allex
100 MW
But if the drain is to high and one cell is bad it wont balance out the cells.
I drained one of those 6 to 2,5V with 10A and rest of them is still 3,33
I drained one of those 6 to 2,5V with 10A and rest of them is still 3,33
DrkAngel
1 GW
You could run a heavier balance wire on the pos and neg terminals of that P? ... but highly recommend replacing cell.
One cell better than the rest is much better-safer than one cell worse than the rest!
The resistors allowed diagnosis of poor cell ... seems like a good function!
One cell better than the rest is much better-safer than one cell worse than the rest!
The resistors allowed diagnosis of poor cell ... seems like a good function!
Wheazel
10 kW
Allex said:
What battery is that? I am guessing you are fixing it for a customer?
Allex
100 MW
A friend of mine have a scooter with this one.
DVDRW
100 W
Or just long steel wire. Stainless for more resistivity ~50x less than copper.Solarpower said:
Will these fuses work with 100V DC?:
https://cache.osta.ee/iv2/auctions/1_9_30576207.jpg
0,5$ each
markz
100 TW
Will these fuses work with 100V DC?:
https://cache.osta.ee/iv2/auctions/1_9_30576207.jpg
0,5$ each
I believe they would. I would like to buy some off you if you have a source for them.
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