Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Brum - My best guess is something to do with the halls and phase sequencing, as in you can replicate the wheel rotaating to crazy 120kph+ speeds by having the hall angle set 'incorrectly' and going WOT. It seems at best guess to feel like a strong pull to 90kph then it's like it completely skips a phase and goes, kind of jumps ( in a millisecond way) and appears to have a boost. Think 'big' motor going from delta to wye. I'd again guess that it miss fires the phase sequence badly enough to causing the motor to stop in that nasty abrupt snap. Two of the phases starting to link over. I'd imagine if this were done under sufficent load it could overcurrent and blow the controller.

It's all speculation mind you :).
 
ccmdr said:
Brum - My best guess is something to do with the halls and phase sequencing, as in you can replicate the wheel rotaating to crazy 120kph+ speeds by having the hall angle set 'incorrectly' and going WOT. It seems at best guess to feel like a strong pull to 90kph then it's like it completely skips a phase and goes, kind of jumps ( in a millisecond way) and appears to have a boost. Think 'big' motor going from delta to wye. I'd again guess that it miss fires the phase sequence badly enough to causing the motor to stop in that nasty abrupt snap. Two of the phases starting to link over. I'd imagine if this were done under sufficent load it could overcurrent and blow the controller.

It's all speculation mind you :).
Click to expand...

Speculation maybe, but a cool explanation alll the same. 8)
 
Hello, i have a problem with my magura/adaptto max-e. I tried to calibrate the trottle from 1.2 to 2.5 v but the problem is the same: the motor go up only when the throttle is 50% open to 100%. Is a magura problem or others? I've just bought a domino throttle on ebay.
 
madin88 said:
Wheazel said:
It is very clear that pulling high throttle from a standstill or very slow makes the controller hesitate/lose sync.
When the bike is moving, it gets more and more unlikely that the controller hesitates when giving high throttle, the faster the bikes travels.
Just like if there is some torque treshhold to pass to lose sync.
I'll have to wait for a reply from Oleg and see if he has some more ideas.
Click to expand...
A sensored controller should not use sync. Thats the reason why hall sensors are installed in permanent magnet BLDC motors :)
Click to expand...

I am not saying it does lose, sync. Im saying that it is like it does. I dont have a better way of describing the symptoms.
First it hesitates, and when it hesitates enough it might make a loud "click/twitch" like it can do when searching for sync in autodetect before it starts to spin properly.

But as long as I dont give alot of throttle I can ride the bike with no troubles. Seem to run the same. Almost has to be some settings that are different/wrong that I don´t know well enough.
 
Offroader said:
bigbore said:
I have been using 5ml of ferrofluid in my QS205 from a weeek.
How should they be adjusted both DC and phase currents? I'm trying to reduce motor overheat and at the same time have the max power.
For example I rode for some days with DC Amps = 110 and phase Amps = 320. This way I can reach 130°C after about 4Km wot on flat tarmac road.
Today I changed at DC Amps = 120 and phase Amps = 300. After first ride of about 8km (my half daily commute to work) seems better than before but I need to wait for a night ride with no one on the street :D
Click to expand...

How does the Ferro FLuid seem to be working compared to not having it?

What is your average and top speed when you are WOT on flat tarmac road?
Click to expand...

Ferrofluid works.
For now I tried on the beach in deep sand and it worked because covering a distance equal to that which in the past led me the motor around at 130 °C with ferrofluid have reached 108 °C

WOT on flat roads I'm about at 85 Km/h with peak power at 8Kw
 
Hi guys, I have seen at my Adaptto Setup, that I could activate my motorcycle light via Adaptto Controller. How does it work? Where can I connect the cables to the light?

Thank you for your help! :D
 
DasDouble said:
Hi guys, I have seen at my Adaptto Setup, that I could activate my motorcycle light via Adaptto Controller. How does it work? Where can I connect the cables to the light?

Thank you for your help! :D
Click to expand...

Hi, thats something for the future, or maybe not ?!?

Oleg from adaptto told me just recently that their dcdc-converter project has no priority right now.
But the general idea is a external dcdc-converter wich could get activated by the adaptto display.

You sill can take 1-2 Amps 5 Volts from the USB plug
 
I have 5 LiPo Packs connected to my BMS. Now Im planing to buy 5 more. But the BMS doesnt seem to have enough plugs for so many 14,8, 16A, 4s, 1p Packs.. :roll: What do I do wrong?

Cheers, Elias
 
notger said:
DasDouble said:
Hi guys, I have seen at my Adaptto Setup, that I could activate my motorcycle light via Adaptto Controller. How does it work? Where can I connect the cables to the light?

Thank you for your help! :D
Click to expand...

Hi, thats something for the future, or maybe not ?!?

Oleg from adaptto told me just recently that their dcdc-converter project has no priority right now.
But the general idea is a external dcdc-converter wich could get activated by the adaptto display.

You sill can take 1-2 Amps 5 Volts from the USB plug
Click to expand...

Well, my motorcycle light will need about maybe 35-55 volts.. :D :eek: :D :pancake:
Maybe I will have to install an Arduino to manage that? lol
 
DasDouble said:
Well, my motorcycle light will need about maybe 35-55 volts.. :D :eek: :D :pancake:
Maybe I will have to install an Arduino to manage that? lol
Click to expand...

if you open the display you can see three wires connected to the USB-plug.
so my assumption is that the (i think it was) green cable is a signal wich should trigger the dcdc converter.
But thats just my guess that connecting the dcdc-converter to the usb plug was adapttos plan.

You could try out what happens an the usb plug cables if you change your light setup on the display.
maybe an arduino wouldn't even be necessary, cause quite some dcdc converter offer remote-on'off pins.

thats what adapttos manual tells

HeadLight
High The controller can control an external DC-DC converter on the data bus to control headlights, horn etc. Control of the headlight and horn ports is possible by using the function keys and quick menu options. Function can only be used with an external DC-DC converter connected (not included).
Click to expand...

this guy here for example can handle 60 Watts 10-75Volts maximum Vin and has
remot on/off pins and even a trim-pin, it might work somehow together with adapttos display ?
http://assets.tracopower.com/20160524102702/TEN60WIN/documents/ten60win-datasheet.pdf


Greets
notger
 
DasDouble said:
I have 5 LiPo Packs connected to my BMS. Now Im planing to buy 5 more. But the BMS doesnt seem to have enough plugs for so many 14,8, 16A, 4s, 1p Packs.. :roll: What do I do wrong?

Cheers, Elias
Click to expand...

Does packs will need to be conected in paralel to the ones you already have.
 
Maybe i dreem it but I think i read in this threat a way to disconect a dc-dc with the same key of the adaptto. I mean that when the bike in on the dc-dc is on and when it is off the dc-dc also is.
Was it with a relay? :roll:
 
ridethelightning said:
double pole, single throw,non change over type keyswich. (dpst) can switch adaptto and dcdc at the same time :wink:
Click to expand...
Exactly.
I use one like this one:
$_12.JPG

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Key-Swit...y-Set-Mini-Key-Switch-Ignition-/321437695181?

Cheers
 
I use these-
http://au.element14.com/multicomp/s286a-1/keyswitch-dpst-2pos-rdm-1keypull/dp/1735372?CMP=KNC-GOO-SHOPPING-1735372&gross_price=true&mckv=sTQKRG2Zm|pcrid|59148083448&gclid=Cj0KEQjw94-6BRDkk568hcyg3-YBEiQAnmuwko8TzmXbbvgb0SDSgq5oituGbJ3iaoGOsXjU7DSxgZ0aAgxi8P8HAQ&CAWELAID=120185580000179757&CAAGID=12550800888&CATCI=pla-125140833602&CAGPSPN=pla

they look awefully similar dont they?

i think i was had for a few bob :cry:
 
Can´t you just connect two cables to one pin of the key??? I mean if you want to switch both off at the same time just a two pole one should do his job great.. Shouldn´t it?
 
DasDouble said:
Can´t you just connect two cables to one pin of the key??? I mean if you want to switch both off at the same time just a two pole one should do his job great.. Shouldn´t it?
Click to expand...

depending on what you want to switch, but the on/off pin of the adaptto, does not use battery voltage as i remember.
And i would really not mix up, sensing-voltage with dcdc-converting voltage for lights and other stuff.

I use this one cause the pins can handle 4A, alot of other key switches are just rated ~250mA.
So this keyswitch could directly cut some watt dcdc-converter, but sure working with relays will also work with other keyswitches
My keyswitch also has 2poles and 4 positions and the key can get pulled in every position wich is quite important.
http://at.rs-online.com/web/p/schlu...3743D38363337303031267374613D3836333730303126
first position is off
second position is capacitator-precharge via resistor
third position is adaptoo-on, dcdc-on
the third position in my case is adaptto-off, dcdc-converter-off, motorbike-alarm-on

Thats what oleg told me converning dcdc converters

As for DC-DC - the manual was written when the plans to launch our DC-DC converter were active. It only means the DC-DC which is compatible with our controller.

Unfortunately there are no other boards which can be used for this.
Click to expand...
But never say never, some clever guys here would just have to find out if the usb plug gives any useable signal for other dcdc-converting -boards

Greets
Notger
 
Started adaptto first time, went to bathroon and friend touched. When i came back screen says enter password :shock:
Someone knows what is the default password or how to fix it?
 
Haha, sorry when Im a laughting a bit^^ lol
Well, I think you could update the firmware. Maybe this helps you.. Or your friend just entered the password to troll you haha :roll: :mrgreen:
 
DasDouble said:
Haha, sorry when Im a laughting a bit^^ lol
Well, I think you could update the firmware. Maybe this helps you.. Or your friend just entered the password to troll you haha :roll: :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Now i am laughting a bit cause i think i found the answer now at home with computer and internet :mrgreen:
But i was going nuts after too many hours with the bike. :evil:
I will cross fingers and try tomorow.
 
Wheazel said:
madin88 said:
Wheazel said:
It is very clear that pulling high throttle from a standstill or very slow makes the controller hesitate/lose sync.
When the bike is moving, it gets more and more unlikely that the controller hesitates when giving high throttle, the faster the bikes travels.
Just like if there is some torque treshhold to pass to lose sync.
I'll have to wait for a reply from Oleg and see if he has some more ideas.
Click to expand...
A sensored controller should not use sync. Thats the reason why hall sensors are installed in permanent magnet BLDC motors :)
Click to expand...

I am not saying it does lose, sync. Im saying that it is like it does. I dont have a better way of describing the symptoms.
First it hesitates, and when it hesitates enough it might make a loud "click/twitch" like it can do when searching for sync in autodetect before it starts to spin properly.

But as long as I dont give alot of throttle I can ride the bike with no troubles. Seem to run the same. Almost has to be some settings that are different/wrong that I don´t know well enough.
Click to expand...

Have you tried changing spd smooth values? Also see if you have speed limits in profiles
 
chucho said:
Started adaptto first time, went to bathroon and friend touched. When i came back screen says enter password :shock:
Someone knows what is the default password or how to fix it?
Click to expand...

Hello,
If you have set the password before - just enter it. If you don't remember your password - the only way would be to send the controller to us for resetting the password.

However if you have NOT set your password before, then now it requires a default password which is: LEFT-LEFT-UP-LEFT-DOWN.

For further questions please contact me via one of our emails.

Oleg
 
Hey guys, does someone know where the cable for the speedsensor is on the display? I want to add sound to my bike which gets "higher" etc, the fast the wheel spins or the more power I give to the throttle.. Any idea? :)
 
Allex said:
Have you tried changing spd smooth values? Also see if you have speed limits in profiles
Click to expand...

Yes have gone over this, and they are not the cause of this. Ontop of that, my profile settings are set as I had them for 4000km with zero problems.
The hesitations are not tied to a specific speed, it happens when enough throttle is applied in relation to the bike speed. Just as if there is some torque treshhold before it starts to act up.
So it is a given that it will hesitate if I pull full throttle from a standstill, even half throttle might be enough. With speed the throttle tolerance goes up.

Worth mentioning is that after the latest (two days ago) controller reflash(back to rc9g3) and full system reset and setup with autodetect etc, the symptoms are harder to expose.
The drivesystem is now abit more tolerant to throttle before it hesitates. I draw the conslusion it has to be some settings that changes and play me a trick here.
Oleg asked me some questions about my battery in the most recent conversation with tech support.
I will wait to see what he comes up with.

Also did skim through all the menus in search for more settings I had missed, but couldnt find anything.
That said, I dont know how some settings affect the controller.
 
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