Lightweight build Q100 cst 201 at 14s

It's from the motor speed sensor. You can leave it unused.
 
I bought the controller on AliExpress almost a year ago.( Kunteng ? ) So I do not have a link saved. ( I am not finding it on Aliexperess now when I look for it )


But it is only rated at up to 14 amps, and it says 7 amps continuous ? / 7 amps rated what ever that means , 7 amps is low ,
I would like to run the Q100 cst at up to 17 amps , since I am used to much more power.
so
I am now thinking about ordering a 6 fet Infineon like what you got. And having it limited to 17 amps, or using it with a cycle analyst that way I can adjust the max amp draw one amp at a time. to see how it works,
since I am used to how a infineon and cycle analyst works together.

But then I would have to wait over a week to get one ( 6 fet ) from Em3ev in China , so I might ...

I might hook up the parts that came from BMS ( along with this Kunteng 48 volt controller,S-LCD3 Display, and thumb throttle, etc. ) to see how they work, or if I will like the way they work ,
and / or use an infineon controller, and cycle analyst, some time in the future, if I do not like the way the BMS/Kunteng parts work.

Here is a picture of the small 48 volt controller.

It looks like there is now a much better version, one with only three wires coming out of the controller, with waterproof connectors,
However not sure if it is made to work with the Q100c cst ?
Here is a like to the home company Kunteng
http://www.szktdz.com/en/news_show.php?article_id=353

or what looks like an older version, what I have ...
http://www.szktdz.com/en/news_show.php?article_id=350

However not sure if they sell to the general public, since both controllers say they can use from 24 to 72 volts and they say ... " 6. It can be customized for all types of controllers for users. "


leo99 said:
Like motomech just said I left it unplugged since it is the speed sensor.
What controller are you using? You have a link?

Leo
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1358.JPG
    IMG_1358.JPG
    39.1 KB · Views: 2,833
  • IMG_1359.JPG
    IMG_1359.JPG
    44 KB · Views: 2,833
Leo,

I await your review on how well your Q100 c CST, and the 6 fet Infineon controller works together, since this is the first time I am seeing/hearing about that motor/controller combination .
and how it wires together .
 
I'll do a quick ride tonight and a few pics if it isn't raining.
I am in the exam session for the next weeks so I won't have much time to finish the build properly. The quick ride I did the other day went perfectly well. I still have to solder everything definitively but it seems to work perfectly.
 
Hi guys,

This is what the bike looks like at the moment. I just strapped the battery and the controller in the bag. I am loving it :D

I am getting 36km/h without pedalling when the 14s battery is fully charged and I get 40km/h when pedalling. It climbs well it I come up the Hill with some speed.
The motor growls a bit under 15 km/h but since I don't use the motor at those speed there is no problems.

The controller goes well with that motor it seems but since it is my first hub motor I can't really compare.

I'll solder all the wires when I have some time. :)

leo
 

Attachments

  • bike.jpg
    bike.jpg
    39.7 KB · Views: 2,803
  • wires.jpg
    wires.jpg
    40 KB · Views: 2,803
ScooterMan101 said:
Leo,

I await your review on how well your Q100 c CST, and the 6 fet Infineon controller works together, since this is the first time I am seeing/hearing about that motor/controller combination .
and how it wires together .
It's really not a combo that makes a lot of sense.
The thing that makes an Infineon 6-FET special is it can produce a lot of power in a tiny package, more than a Q100C can handle on a regular basis. So, if one has to "de-tune" it, and don't run high Volts(of which the Q100 is limited as well), why spend the extra money for one?
To connect to a Cycle Analyst?
Well, I like CA's and started out with one. But, again, the CA really comes into it's own with more powerful systems where the limiting features are useful. The Q100 doesn't need throttle modulation.
For me, as the years go by, I care less and less about info. These day, I'm happy with just my Luna Cycle "pancake" Voltmeters.
For those who want lot's of info and the best low-cost PAS, a sine wave and the LCD-3 is the best running mate for the Q100.
Spend the money you save on batteries :lol:

P.S. The Grin/Infineon is better suited to larger mini's like the MXUS, the Outrider, or some of the larger Bafangs. I have run the 20 A Grin and a 22A Lyen Mini-Monster on a MXUS and it was a hoot. I could pretty much spin the frt. wheel at will. The Lyen especially was a "hot rod" controller.
 
There are lot's of plain $15 controllers.
Elifebike has a new 6-FET, 48V, 500W unit, $14.
Available on Ebay too.
http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2012-37-QE34.0KCJE
 
motomech,

That price is incredible low ! Did not figure out shipping cost though.

I paid between $ 45-$50 with shipping cost for the kT that I got.

I do see the advantage of such a cheep and smaller controller, .... if it works as well as a $ 60 ( before shipping ) one,
However
I see that it, just like mine is limited to only 14 amps, ( mine says 14 amps +/- 1 amp )

I have the 201 rpm speed Q100c CST as well, and the controller is 48 volt.

I want to get the best hill climbing performance out of that Q100c CST motor that I can, since I live in an area with Mountains all around me.

you are running your Q100 H motor at 17 amps, is that at 48 volts ? Have you Run a Regular Q100 ( non H ) at Higher Amps Continuously at 48 volts ?


Have you taken a KT Controller that is 14 amp max
And
Done a Shunt Modification ?

I see the Shunt at the end of the controller, and from a past post from John in CR, from 2011, he shows how to do it better,
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31643

by wrapping some small guage copper around it .
How many wraps ( number of wires ) , and of what guage would bring it up to around 17 amps ? ( if you have done this to a small 14 amp controller )

Is there a way to then measure current with a simple volt meter ? to see the before and during and after modification , in order to get it right, meaning not too many amps.
or
Link to a small meter , that would measure it ? ( I would hook the meter up to the shunt with alligator clips ?, or is there / place to connect a display/meter to measure it? Anyone done a shunt mod of just a couple of amps ?

Bigmoose has a different way of doing it, but it seems much more likely to mess something up.
the simple method of wrapping some thin copper wire around the shunt , for simplicity sake is the way I would do it.

motomech said:
There are lot's of plain $15 controllers.
Elifebike has a new 6-FET, 48V, 500W unit, $14.
Available on Ebay too.
http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2012-37-QE34.0KCJE
 
Hello Leo99,

I'm working on almost the same config as yours. stealth 26" commuter bike, high cruising speed (35-40km/h)with only minor assistance needed. battery range for 15 km. I read most of this post but I did not find which type of battery you finally chose. Could you give me some more information about that?

I plan to use the Q100 rear version 326 rpm at 36V. Anyone using the typical hooverboard batteries?
https://www.google.be/search?q=hove...Ewil5ZDg0orPAhXFmBoKHXtHBy8Q_AUIBigB&dpr=1.65

bad idea?
 
Hoverboard Batteries a ... Bad Idea,

From the link you provided they are expensive at $ 249 per 36 volt / 4.4 amp hour pack.
the amp hour is low, the 22 is printed on each cell , which I think means only 2.2 amps per cell ( 2200 Milli Amp Hours ),
that is low by today's standards, most today are 2900, 3200, even 3500 for the Newest Panasonic GA Cells
and
They do not say what the continuous amp draw is .

Best to use one of the trusted vendors that get good reviews here on E.S. in
regards to the battery's they sell.



pascal.desmet@telenet.be said:
Hello Leo99,

I'm working on almost the same config as yours. stealth 26" commuter bike, high cruising speed (35-40km/h)with only minor assistance needed. battery range for 15 km. I read most of this post but I did not find which type of battery you finally chose. Could you give me some more information about that?

I plan to use the Q100 rear version 326 rpm at 36V. Anyone using the typical hooverboard batteries?
https://www.google.be/search?q=hove...Ewil5ZDg0orPAhXFmBoKHXtHBy8Q_AUIBigB&dpr=1.65

bad idea?
 
Hi guys,
I know it has been a while.
I haven't been riding much but here is what it looks like now.

downloadfile-03.jpeg

I have been hitting 40kmh when pedaling with a fresh battery :D

I have changed the front chainring since that picture and replaced it by a 48 tooth since I was going faster then expected :wink:
 
After getting too much unwanted attention for my 1000w mtb I decided to go stealth as much as possible. I built a new cyclocross e bike with a q100c motor.
Here's the setup:
-q100c @ 328rpm in 28" wheel with continental grand prix 5000 tires
-48v20ah battery
-kt 11a/22a(max) sine wave controller with lcd3, c5=3
I'm only running on pas, haven't installed a throttle. Pas1=80w, pas 2=180w, pas3=250w, pas4=350w, pas5=550w.
The bike is running so good, I am using it without the battery as roadbike too. On pas1 I can easily hit 30km/h, on pas3 and heavy pedaling and a heartbeat of about 150 I can hit 42. With pas 4 I hit 45 and pas 5 and heavy pedaling and a heartbeat of 180 I can pass the 50km/h. But I'm hardly using pas4 and very rarely pas5 as it makes no sense. Cruising between 35 and 40 is most convenient for me. I never got motor or controller hot.
 
Back
Top