Steelhubs.com

Lightweight / Folding / Portable EVs - seats optional
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Nordle
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Nordle » Aug 01, 2016 4:09 pm

Do you have drawings of them? Stator size and kv?
4:20 Noob Hubz! BLAZE it
..sry for dat poor english..

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Aug 01, 2016 4:27 pm

Drawings yes. I'll get a 3D image done soon so u can see but it'll be largely the same as before just with a bigger bearing and twice as long. stator is 4775. I'd like to get them wound to 80 or 90kv again

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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by WeeChumlee » Aug 02, 2016 5:19 am

Hehe, I do like the way you keep at this Hummina. In my opinion you are quite right about the single motor approach, makes sense to me. Some may not like the aesthetics but all to their own.
Would like to see how you plan to fit it to the trucks though, if the stator alone is 75mm I am curious as to which trucks you will be using.
Good luck, I for one would like to see this happen.

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Aug 02, 2016 10:35 am

Will be using the same high heat epoxy on regular trucks. Paris. Tried to break a motor off lastnight with a two pin spanner and two people...it needs more than that and couldn't do it. Want to avoid having to do an additional mechanical fastener. Simpler cheaper. If anyone is interested write me cause I've done a play by play explanation in the past as I get excited and write and write but not this time. 4770 stator it will likely be. Almost tripple in the double size. Really want a single hub option for a drop drop. And this would be likely the cheapest build possible! Yet fuckcking awesome. I'm still smitten. It was love at first thought and will last till death.

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Aug 18, 2016 11:06 pm

steelhubs.com
I have about 20 hub motors left and the typical business model is out the window as I want to raise money for metal molds for a high heat nitrile rubber instead of the polyurethane I've been pouring which isn't good for the heat of a motor. Its car tire rubber in 80 duro! This is a steal concidering the work I put in and the cost to me of 75$ each motor before taxes, shipping to me, PayPal to the manufacturer, mold making, wheel rubber buying and pouring, and very expensive retaining fluid and high heat epoxy that I use mounting them and the cost of the real Paris trucks. If you do the math you'll find I might even be losing money not even speaking of my time.
These are expensive motors because they are machined steel bells with a single steel ring closure and fat bearings not aluminum and tiny screws. the motors are locked closed and rattle-free and there is a removable flange for replacing the rubber. If you're not familiar with the design please check it out on the site. They are built to last forever and I offer a lifetime warranty on the steel version

I'm selling pairs of aluminum motors for 200$ with a pair of Paris black 195 trucks or the all steel version for 250$ also with a pair of the 195 Paris trucks.

I won't sell singles.

If you PayPal me at humminashadeeba@gmail the amount (friends and family please) I can have them shipped in less than a week with a set of the old polyurethane I've been using so far...and the better 80duro car tire rubber at a very fair price in the future.


Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR ---all going for cost--

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Aug 20, 2016 3:31 am

90kv or 80kv. I should put that up

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR ---all going for cost--

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Sep 27, 2016 8:24 pm

Bigger motors not here but the nitrile car tire rubber is.
Attachments
image.jpeg
Bigger and smells like sneakers
image.jpeg (193.31 KiB) Viewed 59 times
image.jpeg
Nitrile car tire rubber does 275f
image.jpeg (149.95 KiB) Viewed 59 times

bbq870
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR ---all going for cost--

Post by bbq870 » Sep 28, 2016 3:16 am

they look great!! can´t wait to try them

ralphy
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Re: community project HUB MOTOR ---all going for cost--

Post by ralphy » Sep 29, 2016 5:59 pm

I shot you an email last week when we talked let me know when you get the first functional pairs going!

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: Steelhubs.com

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Nov 04, 2016 10:48 am

Got the nitrile in. 80 and 85 duro hudrogenated (better for higher heat) and regular. I've got like 60 of them but now in the meantime have found "hot pour" high heat environment polyurethane which I'm more excited to atart pouring. Polyurethane has better mechanical properties, one being rebound, for longer rolling and less energy needed per mile.

5$ for the 80 duro nitrile (don't trust these as they're really 75 duro and I've managed to roll them off doing high force turns) and 10$ for the 85 duro (which is really maybe an 80 duro). Hydrogenated 2$ more.

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: Steelhubs.com

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Jan 11, 2017 2:35 pm

the big motors have come! doing one long motor instead of two now as the single isabout 150% the power of the two. My pics are too big but you can check it out at the end of the thread here:
http://www.electric-skateboard.builders ... /1002/1111

i hate to divert attention to over there but it's too hard for me to get pics up here.

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: Steelhubs.com

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Jan 22, 2017 5:35 pm

rode great but then the axle broke! too much leverage. duu. looking at all these hub motors in comparison to the span of axle the farthest bearing sits at and supports a typical wheel I think it was only a matter of distance..and I went deep into the distance.

going back to the old model and will squeeze a bit bigger stator in and increase the second bearing to monster size as well and call it done.

aside from the quest for the most continuous wattage, which the long motor was going for, running two smaller ones had tons of power and good for anything under half an hour and with the two motors and the vesc's traction control it really was a better ride. no slips on wet or loose ground and no loss of power when doing a sharp turn by lifting the motor off the ground.

mission not accomplished but mission completed.

bunch of pics
http://tppsf.com/failure-analysis/

or could do something like this:
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/73 ... 8980cc.jpg

anyone who wants to take on the only other long one of these motors I have 10 lifetime's supply of rubber and will give it to you at the manufacturing cost with shipping at...235. and can throw in a pair of paris trucks and kegel wheels at half their retail price. it's a 47x70mm stator with curved n45sh magnets. .2mm stator lams. and monster sealed nsk bearings. with the last link I posted, assuming it will fit an 80mm wheel I think it would spread the rider load enough to be good. or mount it to something else.

Silenthunter
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Re: Steelhubs.com

Post by Silenthunter » Jan 22, 2017 11:27 pm

Maybe you can adjust the hubs for the 10mm axle trucks which are sold by evolve or the surf rodz so the extended axle does not brake. Just a though...

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: Steelhubs.com

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » Jan 23, 2017 12:38 am

breaking after only a couple hundred miles and me not being heavy makes it all suspect. the obvious problem to point to is the increased leverage with the long wheel. a standard set up has the outer bearing of the wheel, and pretty much the extent of the leverage, maybe 4cm from the beginning of the axle. these motors have that end of the lever at about 10cm. leverage being in ft/lbs it would be 250% the leverage as a standard wheel. I believe that's how it works. I thought that wouldn't be much of an issue since the trucks come with a lifetime warranty. if anything I thought they might bend. maybe it's the interface between the hard steel motor at the fulcrum where it snapped. the different forces that would cause a snap vs a bend I wonder if there were the slightest buffer between the two it would've made a difference and not sheared. Given this happened and I don't want to go on a long path trying different axles like a 10 or 12mm. they're expensive and .. i'm going to just keep it to what worked in the past. the long wheel was a freak, it should be no surprise it failed.

can get more copper and bigger bearings and a slightly longer stator in the standard design.

AndyG73
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Re: Steelhubs.com

Post by AndyG73 » May 01, 2017 8:20 am

Hey Hummina / Pylonfler,
Just an idea - have you ever looked into using a more heat conductive material for the hub motor tyres? I know you have some airflow cooling through your motors, but in hub motors where the side plates are sealed to prevent dirt and water ingress or where higher power is being used (1kw per wheel), the PU is no good at taking heat away from the motor (its a thermal insulator). Without airflow through the hubs, then there is only the side plates & axles for conducting the heat away.
I was thinking of some sort of thermal conductive silicone compound like this http://www.intertronics.co.uk/product/t ... compounds/
Monk-e-bike + LMC D127-200... Midi-moto R1 electric conversion... Schwinn Chopper + Cromotor (bad idea #1)
NS Suburban + MXUS DD... Monster Kickboard + Turnigy 6364... Marin XLT + Cromotor

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: Steelhubs.com

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » May 01, 2017 9:41 am

I've tried thermally conductive epoxy and potted the stators but it did more heat retention than dissipation. Those windings won't move and possibly short at least. I forget the numbers of the resin I used but finding a really good one, which I think some of the silicones can be, is expensive.
I've also had a couple different versions of "fan" made that sit on the side of the motor that I tried. The best designs were somewhat effective but I skipped the little tricks and just am making bigger motors now that match the abec11 centrax 83x78. More room for more motor and a bit more rubber too. And a new 12mm axle hanger.

Im building the motors now and theyll have all pressed bearings, and all motor leads fat, potted, and facing up and 52mm stator instead of the old 25mm

I've been spending hours looking for the strongest steel that's still magnetically soft because it's right beside the motor now. Iron losses due to a magnetic field producing eddy cutters seems to be pretty unavoidable as all metals are pretty electrically conductive, but magnetic metals, unless they can flip polarity very fast, and are magnetically soft, like electrical steel or better iron, while create a magnetic hysterisis and be more inefficient. Settled on 4130 steel. The non-magnetic 300 stainless series are pretty weak unless cold rolled and might be able to get those. All speculation and I've found it impossible to find a good simulation showing what will happen with these new motors and their tighter gap between winding endturns and metal

Here's with a plate throwing air out radially on the other side
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIXVtP9GAFE&t=5s

AndyG73
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Re: Steelhubs.com

Post by AndyG73 » May 01, 2017 10:15 am

Improving the efficiency of the motors is a good call when it comes to tackling the heat issue - you're on the right track!
There will always be some heat, so I'll make some enquiries about the silicone compound to see if it will be anything like urethane in terms of hardness and durability.
Nothing will beat air flow or liquid over the windings themselves, but it is getting the heat out of the casing that I'm thinking about, especially when the housing is sealed up (not relevant to your current motors, but might be worth looking into).
Monk-e-bike + LMC D127-200... Midi-moto R1 electric conversion... Schwinn Chopper + Cromotor (bad idea #1)
NS Suburban + MXUS DD... Monster Kickboard + Turnigy 6364... Marin XLT + Cromotor

Hummina Shadeeba
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Re: Steelhubs.com

Post by Hummina Shadeeba » May 01, 2017 10:56 am

the tire itself I don't think I will be able to use a thermally conductive resin/rubber, although that would be fantastic to roll the heat away and drop it off on the road. It's a big challenge just getting a tire that has good rolling ability and can not be destroyed by the heat. A further obstacle to rolling the heat away is the new wheels have a solid polycarbonate core. it's got to stay on and not deteriorate most importantly.
Even with what looks to be somewhat effective air displacement with the things I made that bolt on the motor not much cooling occurred, but the hanger gets hot and I think the metal on metal pathway to the aluminum of the hanger is an easy path for the heat and possibly then the passing air. It takes a while for the hanger to heat up and really the motors are much more capable for their first 30 minutes than after everything is heated. the design has a solid steel rod smack in the middle of the stator which would be great if it were aluminum to transport the heat but aluminum is too soft and will deform. the 4130 steel is like 1/3 as thermally conductive...but it doesn't break. compromise.

got all excited for a hollow axle version which would simplify the design and allow the stator to sit on a 20mm hollow steel tube and I can put bladed aluminum heatsinks inside along it's length and an air scoop on one side, but it's a lot of changes for questionable improved motor cooling.

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