New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

PhaenTa said:
That is about twice the price I paid for mine incl battery from China.
As I read it, you refer to the ebike-sales.co.uk price keithmac paid. (?)
Included Norwegian VAT and handling fees?
Where did you buy from? :)

BTW: The price at conrad.de was €999 only a few days ago.
It includes a 36V 8.8Ah battery and German VAT.
 
thowaa said:
PhaenTa said:
That is about twice the price I paid for mine incl battery from China.
As I read it, you refer to the ebike-sales.co.uk price keithmac paid. (?)
Included Norwegian VAT and handling fees?
Where did you buy from? :)

BTW: The price at conrad.de was €999 only a few days ago.
It includes a 36V 8.8Ah battery and German VAT.

I paid $320 for the motor incl DHL shipping and around $120 for a 36V 8Ah battery with charger incl regular shipping.. It's a plain and compact li-ion pack in a blue shrink wrap but it has proper circuitry / protection and works good. I hate those huge encapsulated major giveaway types anyway.

Both were purchased at Ali. I see that the prices have gone a bit up so it would cost closer to $480 today.
 
This is the battery I bought, 36v 15ah Samsung celled in a proper case with lockable holder and charger.

You're not talking like for like really.

I don't begrudge paying what I did for a UK supplied battey and charger, if it arrived smashed to bits I could easily sort a replacement (although it was very well packed).


New_Dolphin_Battery_1.png
.
 
I agree. Just to clarify, I can totally understand that buying things locally is the preferred option for many. Specially if you plan to use the bike a lot (obviously with a whopping 15Ah batt). And everyone pays what they feel is natural anyway :) I merely stated what little I could get away with and for my limited time bicycling it was worth the potential "risk".

Actually I should mention that Aliexpress has excellent buying protection so in case something is defective or damaged during transport, there's usually very little effort to get it sorted or even get your money back.

I returned my defective motor during that period and the seller covered the shipping expenses. They resent it with DHL when done.
 
Aliexpress sounds good if you have some comeback.

I'm averaging 50 miles on my Gtech (36v 200 watt hour 5.6ah 250w Hub Motor) so this battery may be very over-specced!.
 
After I have browsed through the hidden functions,
the number 3.4 is shown in the display for a second or two
before it returns to normal.
Do you get the same or another number?

IMG_4800_600.jpg
 
Hi all.
Spares for TSDZ2 now available on AliExpress. Search for 'TSDZ2'

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk
 
Yes i also noticed the spares on aliexpress. Great news for us, in case of something bad happens to one of the parts.
Mine is still going strong as i am reaching 400Km on it. Great buy, and exactly what i was looking for. Threadlocker solved my crank arm screw coming loose problem.
My average power consumption is 4,5Wh/Km on eco mode on relatively flat land. This motor makes me ride my bike to work more often, because i know that if i feel tired i can crank up the power.

Has anyone tried the smaller LCD screen ?
Because my plan in the future is to add a cycle analyst V2 to my setup, to monitor my battery precisely, but with this big screen there is not much space left for a CA wich is also large.
 
I have done a few rides with a SkyRC watt meter mounted between the battery and motor.
I get peak current around 15 A.
This correspond to what some dealers write as the spec for the 250W version.
Hopefully some of you with the 350W version can do measurements as well.
I have found inconsistent info, but the peak should be 16-18 A.
 
thowaa said:
After I have browsed through the hidden functions,
the number 3.4 is shown in the display for a second or two before it returns to normal.
Do you get the same or another number?
I assume it is a version number, but
I have checked an older motor than mine and it has 3.6.
This is easy to check. What number do you get?
 
larsottar said:
Hi,

Happy you got it working and that you're pleased with it PhaenTa.

I finally got around to recording the sound from this motor and the Bafang. The recording is done with an old MiniDV camera with a decent external microphone. Motors are mounted to different bikes but are ridden up the same hills in same conditions;
[youtube]WocDrObCBuQ[/youtube]

I suppose what anoyed me the most was the noise it makes when not assisting. So I decided to open up the motor to have a closer look. Here are some pictures;
View attachment 5
View attachment 4
View attachment 3
View attachment 2
View attachment 1


The motor is smaller than I thought! After opening the motor the quality impression I have is improved. It is very well put together, and the electrical part is done really neat. Not being a mechanic I have googled spur and helical gears and it seems a helical gear will generally produce less noise than a spur one. The TSDZ2 has a spur gear on the main shaft whereas the Bafang has a helical gear. The helical I suppose is more expensive to machine and does produce axial force which is probably why the Bafang has those weird bearing on it's main shaft.

Anyway, although there is no remedy for the noise, I have decided to replace the good old Bafang with the TSDZ2 on my main cargo bike and let it endure some proper loading. Maybe I won't need the bell as much :)

By the way I have the 250 W version and did try to tamper with the power adjustment settings, but no noticable change as has been posted by others.

Cheers
Lars


I bought three tsdz2 from pswpower, two motor have same noise of Lars. It can be fixed by enough greasing?
 
karlla said:
I bought three tsdz2 from pswpower, two motor have same noise of Lars. It can be fixed by enough greasing?
Check the roller clutch inside the blue plastic gear.
It should freewheel and not turn the motor when you turn the crank without assist.
 
thowaa said:
karlla said:
I bought three tsdz2 from pswpower, two motor have same noise of Lars. It can be fixed by enough greasing?
Check the roller clutch inside the blue plastic gear.
It should freewheel and not turn the motor when you turn the crank without assist.


I opend one of them, I found that noise is comming from between large metal gear and small metal gear but roller clutch works as you said.

I think small gear doesn't rolling well like smooth bearing. I will check and re-greasing roller clutch and bearing at small gear. Is there any other checkpoint?


thanks for response, thowaa
 
Mine seems noisy but I haven't put any real miles on it yet.

What's best grease to use?. We use Motul Tech Grease 300 at work for most things so may regrease with that?.
 
Others have reported looseness in bearings and loose lock rings on the axle.
So far my own motor feels tight and smooth, but it hasn't passed 200 km yet. :)
 
I have tried to find info about the difference between the 250W and 350W versions.
From the info bits I have got here and there, it is quite clear that the difference is just a software configuration,
which probably explains why changing the A setting have no effect (on the 250W only?).

Would be helpful if anyone with the 350W version could provide some info.
 
You can try to set the A setting to just 5 A.
It should then perform about the same as Eco mode in the higher assist modes if the A setting works.
If your battery allows, try to set the A setting higher than 16.
Do you feel any difference?

You can also check the version number, as I have mentioned before.

I also wonder what the number on the side of the controller is.
You have to remove the motor cover to see it.
There should be a sticker like this. Take a photo.

IMG_4824_sticker.jpg
 
@thowaa

I have the 350W version and the number in the last configuration menu you were asking about earlier is 3.4. Seems indeed
like it's the firmware version and if yours is rated at 250W then there's obviously no major difference in FW.

In addition.. I've asked pswpower earlier regarding the power options and according to them it's not just software, without
elaborating any further. Personally I don't see any difference in labeling, design, or size of the motor for that matter to support
that claim but I don't really know for sure. To tell you the truth, my hunch says they are the same, but being advertised differently.

I'd like to be proven wrong :wink:
 
[strike]Here you can see the same labeling as yours..[/strike]

Actually.. after looking closer.. the letter "A" after 36V is missing.. Go figure. Perhaps there is a difference?

Anyone else care to check theirs?
 

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@PhaenTa thanks for your info.
You have earlier said that you feel a difference when you increased the A setting.
Have you tried to lower it? Done any measurements?

My controller doesn't have the 'A' on the label.
The 'A' appears on controllers sold as spare parts.
Or maybe on all newer controllers?

Most dealers have not replied on my questions about the difference.
Some of those who have replied clearly show no technical insight in what they are selling.
Pswpower says the spare controller they sell is the same for both versions.
One dealer has confirmed that the only difference is a software configuration.
Another dealer says that both versions are the same. Just sales mumbo-jumbo for different markets.
He also says that max current limit is 16 A for both, but
my measure of Ap at 15 A confirms with those who give different specs for the two versions.
None of the dealers I have been in touch with are able to update or configure the software.

So far it doesn't seem possible to tell whether you have a 250W or 350W without doing measurements.
:?
 
Hi all

i bought few month ago this motor version 36v 350w, the motor case has a sticker under, it shows these specifications,

314ayia.jpg


DSC_0001.xcf.jpg

i know that version 350w work at 4000rpm and 250w work at 3600rpm.

more specificacion on this website:
http://x-max.en.alibaba.com/product/60161844411-801000348/36v250w_intelligent_torque_sensor_mid_drive_motor_center_motor_middle_drive_motor.html



one question,

Does anyone have problems with torque sensor? sometime on my bike this sensor is less sensitivity and the assintance doesn't work or it works with irregular shape

I've only been able to solve that disconnecting and connecting wire battery-motor,

what do you think? does the controller have a problem? Does anyone else have the same problem?
 
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