World Domination, I just got my self a 3d Printer!!!

oh man that is awesome!

Id like to see some of you're prints but particularity the resin ones!

That is so good it's a fast system, formlabs Form1 printer kinda put me off, they take longer than most FDM style printers.
Totally jealous but excited to see what you do with it!
Have you worked out a good area to put it ? When I was considering one I could not figure out where to put it because you'd want to keep the area super clean just like a lab.
You should totally make some mesmerizing art! :D

The main thing I can remember with these kinda printers is object placement, Its more important with these styles, but maybe not your one.


I wonder if you can make your own resin or use something else that will work to bring that cost down, Regular FDM filament is now like $25-$30 for regular quality really, I pay up to $50 per kilo and some people pay up to $80 for even tighter tolerances.
 
If it's out of PLA, I would not trust it for off road. It would need to be thick, it's too brittle of a plastic. ABS would be a better choice. I'm not even sure PLA is UV resistant, so I would paint it.
 
Got a beautiful and surprisingly light package at work today.

Ultimaker 2 :mrgreen:

CsvmamBl.jpg


Setting it up tonight. Gonna print brackets for my Max-E, custom IEM's, new housing and headband for my headphones... eventually, anyway. :mrgreen:

So pretty.

I'd like to get an Olsson Block for it so I can use and quickly swap .25mm, 1.00mm, or 1.2mm e3d hotends for printing big modular parts, such as a fairing... =) This would be done in ABS, and with a front/top heat shield to minimize warping.

TheBeastie said:
So has anyone managed to print out a ebike battery box? I have seen bits printed out but not a complete box yet. Is it too expensive to do or not strong enough?

Oh yeah, incoming :mrgreen: Gotta get my own filament first, but yeah, I want to!
 
Saw this in the tech news today, apparently this is pretty cool 3d print technology.
Since I never had one I can't really appreciate how much better it might be..

From their website

It works by projecting light through an oxygen-permeable window into a reservoir of UV curable resin. The build platform lifts continuously as the object is grown.

The heart of the CLIP process is a special window that is transparent to light and permeable to oxygen, much like a contact lens.

By controlling the oxygen flux through the window, CLIP creates a “dead zone” — a thin layer of uncured resin between the window and the object.

This makes it possible to grow without stopping. As a continuous sequence of UV images are projected, the object is drawn from the resin bath. Sophisticated software manages the entire process by controlling the variables.
[youtube]UpH1zhUQY0c[/youtube]

http://qz.com/363644/watch-a-new-3d-printing-technique-create-intricate-objects-from-a-pool-of-goo/
http://carbon3d.com/
 
Usually runtime. The plastic is secondary.

Some companies go for a dollar a minute as a start. I tend to run jobs for people overnight if its a product I want to see supported and charge a lot less...
 
There's a 3D process where lasers harden inside a container of acrylic resin. This guy sells a small one called "Peachy Printer" for $100

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/saska...k-man-gets-record-crowdsourced-cash-1.2417416

Grayston's software converts an object into file data using a sound card on his laptop. The information on that audio file is sent to electromagnetic mirrors and laser beams that vibrate and move in accord with the data to build 3D objects from a specialized acrylic resin.

Unlike other more expensive devices, Grayston's Peachy Printer has no motors or microprocessors.

With marketing help from Nathan Grayston, 22, a YouTube video introducing their 3D printer kit attracted a total of $720,000 in crowdsourced money, the bulk of that from the online entrepreneur support network Kickstarter.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/117421627/the-peachy-printer-the-first-100-3d-printer-and-sc

[youtube]T18r7hDG-ec[/youtube]
 
I got a extrusion frame Prusa i3 copy from 3Dprintersonlinestore.com and its amazingly good. A few quirks, but that's to be expected. This is about my 10th print, and I still can't control my evil maniacal world domination laughter while its running :twisted: Below I'm printing with PETG which is fairly easy to print with yet surprisingly strong and ductile... and it doesn't smell like ABS.
 
PaulD said:
I got a extrusion frame Prusa i3 copy from 3Dprintersonlinestore.com and its amazingly good. A few quirks, but that's to be expected. This is about my 10th print, and I still can't control my evil maniacal world domination laughter while its running :twisted: Below I'm printing with PETG which is fairly easy to print with yet surprisingly strong and ductile... and it doesn't smell like ABS.


Excited for you Paul. Just got a printer myself, and it's captivating to watch parts grow. :)
 
liveforphysics said:
Excited for you Paul. Just got a printer myself, and it's captivating to watch parts grow. :)

What printer did you get? Eventually I want to build a ginourmous 36" x 36" printer to do an entire front triangle mold for a carbon frame... When I have time which will probably be never..

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
I just started a new job this week teaching middle school. We have a Makerbot and several kits from another manufacturer, but I'm also looking to get another plug-and-play for the younger students (the Makerbot is in a different lab and I want one for my room as well).

The Mini Replicator doesn't seem to be getting good enough reviews, in my opinion.

So I'm wondering what everyone here thinks would make a good plug-and-play for under two thousand?

We'll keep working with the kits as well, but we really need a plug and play soon (due to the limited amount of time for each class: nine weeks).


Also, I'm considering using our budget to get a Carvey or an X-Carve from Inventables. They are desktop CNC machines (essentially a strong Dremel controlled by computer). It's more or less the same concept as a 3D printer but it starts with a solid block and shapes what you program. The advantage of it (over a printer) is that you aren't restricted to plastics and resins, etc., but can shape any material that is relatively soft, including aluminum and brass. So in some ways it's a better choice than printing. But like a printer, I'm more likely to go with a plug-and-play system because of the age of my students and the limited time we have. They are just getting started with auto cad (on a very beginning level) and I want them to be able to see the physical reward of what they create.

If I buy kits then I'll get the older, more experienced students to help put it together, and will likely recruit some of the high school kids or former students who are attending Georgia Tech to help.

Any thoughts, advice?
 
We have decent luck with our Flash Forge Dreamer, it's well under 2k. All of these machines have their moments of course...
 
I own a Form1+ and ultimaker 2 printer.. I will do some plastic parts for my bike in the future.

Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk
 
I picked up a Wanhao Duplicator I3 branded as "Cocoon Create" at my local Aldi supermarket!

Surprisingly it has been an amazing machine:

24514559733_df3d692ff3_c.jpg


I designed and printed a stem mount for my bike accessories:

28680976351_344724e4c9_c.jpg


Also made a spacer plate for my Bafang display so I could flip it around 180 degrees:

28418173412_d740073bea_c.jpg


28523889535_5a4df5b2bb_c.jpg


Here it all comes together:

28680977201_390646622c_c.jpg


Cheers!
 
Here's a really good unboxing, assembly, and start-up video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWR8K9Ce3FA&t=462s

Here's the best video on an introduction to this printer (using sketchup and Cura for software):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlSyzTQsrEY

Another Cura tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGwBMFuMbos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIHelSpeL7s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YZD6K7osco
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqcW0EpDk2k

[youtube]OlSyzTQsrEY[/youtube]

Here's a good starter video on the most desired upgrades just for starting out, the list below is much more comprehensive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWcSP9Bles8

Here's a video that lists some recommended upgrades.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ziv0Mp34MUg

0:46 add a MOSFET board for the hotbed (?)
1:11 moving bed cable zip-tie mount to prevent cable abrasion
1:30 Z-axis braces four corner mounts and two allthread-rods
2:00 replace stock Y-carriage with thicker 3mm aluminum
2:37 Add a glass build plate
3:12 countersunk M3 screws allow the glass to go all the way to the edge without any cutouts
3:50 3D print two new X-ends to allow better LM8UU bearings to be used
4:10 E3DV6 all metal print-head $70 on Amazon (headache to program)
4:51 120mm square mount for bigger fan to cool control board.
5:25 change G-code so print-head starts with making a strip across the edge, so no stringers are dragged into the print base.
6:01 get two toothed idler pulleys to replace the stock smooth idler pulleys
6:35 swap the Y-axis bearing-holders from 4 to 3, so it will be easier to level, and reduces friction from warpage
7:30 change firmware for new E3DV6 head, must calibrate thermistor to new value, plus allows baby-stepping Z-axis (height)
8:36 calibrate the X, Y, Z, E axes to make sure feed rate is accurate.

Here's another video on mods, including the adjustment nut-wheels (thingverse part number 874155)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtN72vz_1WE&list=PLfRoJkFaFcpn463XtyOGDM_D6w975xUE4
 
I finally bit the bullet and ordered a 3D printer. Pulled it out of the box, loaded some software, and started making useful parts the same evening. Things have improved considerably since this thread started.

In particular I needed a spacer that would match some curves and have reasonably accurate dimensions, and using the precision of OpenSCAD was able to hit the mark on the first try. The printer made a useable part the first try also. This is not an ebike part but we'll get to those soon.

vlHDs0s3FxC_vhJFHUHMjaI_9_ij63PpC4Vx2OWqCRQ9JL1e_ARMfBR5MvIR3H9WaiUatxMjzrB8OFMaTALY4sfPnVKQ_bFB4DOK2ESFt7JTeYxVNG1FFQWbJSk7PxlnWEvMTs_hEfWLk6lGREb_srT-31IK70J9Z6vJVoP7Za4XKDa6XpgY1t0yj3hbx2r7d-gd7zimVwxPBNH_jo7nP7cbC8OAjHfDvE3-0OvCOfT5AxVgwi5uVQ2Xao0rD9HxfKNs-NNpoeQml3c5uHxEIBh9_Dobqqb03ZnggCEbb0ZRZINkCuaW2ose0Hckch6KuhH0Tn9ztom4Yc24UlXI0UDEQQEHh8aE_PNurPrzwydWq7_vs3WsSw837Dx4UzoRmW-zinwLoHC9MIqCIFnWYHKDlV4PnXRQA_SQqHvkH8yRJtjVC6FmFoDxXagwXK8bxpyEC-kAMk06b1_Rl6X-ic2FyoqiGf69S8XPEmoWrvC9ol2gVp3p5yQFwzsLUUq_eo7_ZUZO4Wtp77brUIN6yLGScWsV3c6AZPVRwPuSLXN-9G1vnAZcocCz12MBgkeI_smT2X2Lg7o1N-yK_EcNPjBxWpFmyOeC8h1qEJy1lHLycDsPHAwnVXMxW_LzwormnB3AHih8OjJ7yM5HSgXQBs18lPwgfk3CexX1=w944-h726-no


This was literally the third print out of this printer - the factory printed a small octopus with it as a test, I printed another one with it showing that it arrived and works, and using the left over sample material I printed a couple of the spacers, one of which is shown on the printbed above.

I went on to change to a new spool of filament and made another 20 or so of these spacers with various settings the next day. Most are useable as they are, some could use a little sanding, a couple are trash due to bad settings. Not bad for a day's testing. I can print 8 or more at once on the print bed to increase production rates.
 
Nice one. I was hoping someone would have designed a central CA bracket and/or a replacement case with extra buttons and switches, but it looks like I'll have to design one. Obviously that's half the fun, but I still suck at CAD. In the mean time I've been distracting myself with geeky scifi props for my desk at work 8)

geek-corner.jpg
 
It would be cool to get a new list going of what the best bang for buck printers are for various sizes.
 
Monoprice Select for small stuff, 120mm, about $220.

Prusa i3 mk3 is the most featured for 8" cubed, 200mm. Kit $750. The i3 mk2 is cheaper and a good printer but lacks some really advanced features available on the mk3, the class leader at the moment.

Creality (CR-10S etc) has some fairly low cost big volume printer models. Fairly basic but seem to work. About $500 and up depending on the size, 300x300x400 to 500x500x500 models. Some older models lower in cost lacking some features.

I don't have any of these, but I have looked at a lot of reviews.
 
Alan B said:
Monoprice Select for small stuff, 120mm, about $220.

Prusa i3 mk3 is the most featured for 8" cubed, 200mm. Kit $750. The i3 mk2 is cheaper and a good printer but lacks some really advanced features available on the mk3, the class leader at the moment.

Creality (CR-10S etc) has some fairly low cost big volume printer models. Fairly basic but seem to work. About $500 and up depending on the size, 300x300x400 to 500x500x500 models. Some older models lower in cost lacking some features.

I don't have any of these, but I have looked at a lot of reviews.
Thanks Alan.
 
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