QSMOTOR,0.5-12kW Electric Hub Motor & Mid Drive Motor Manufacture China

madin88 said:
gensem said:
liveforphysics said:
72 spokes should have a meaningfully improved shot at survival.

Meaningfully survival improvement coming from you means alot. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

as mentioned, if you give tension to those 72 large spokes, the RING shaped spoke flange could rip to pieces!!

Will be using 11g spokes instead of 8g for more flex and hoping for the best.
 
Yep, using 72 thinner spokes is the key. Especially when spokes are very short. Otherwise you will need to use a very heavy rim.

I bet I can lace a 273 H80 with 72 14ga spokes in a bicycle rim and it will last the whole summer wearing one tire a week on the streets. :twisted:

Well, this may be bragging with extremes but: One thing you need to know about spoked wheels: When they are built good for the job, spokes could break or strip a nipple once in a while, but never pull trough the rim. Use a stronger rim, or use rim washers, use thinner spokes, do whatever is necessary to acheive this basic rule: The spoke must be the weakest link of a spoked wheel.
 
MadRhino said:
I bet I can lace a 273 H80 with 72 14ga spokes in a bicycle rim and it will last the whole summer wearing one tire a week on the streets. :twisted:


+1

My bet would be 14awg outlasts abuse better than the 11awg. The strength of the spoked wheel comes from getting all the shanks of the spokes to stay in a stretched state, then the wheel distributes impact loads over a bunch of spoke/nipple interfaces rather than spokes without enough stretch that tend to concentrate stress on just a few spoke locations.

I've been looking for a good lacing solution for my own motor of similar size, and have been exploring carbon fiber tow lacing with epoxy to lock the fibers together. For my last few hubmotors that came laced into rims with fat spokes, it's been a single ride per wheel failure. When I built my roadbike hub I used Sapim Super-Spokes which feature 17gauge shanks (triple butted to have 14awg thread size and 14awg heads). That wheel is still true today and has never needed truing, and I almost daily hit 6 stair high climbs and drops with it on an unsuspended steel frame.
 
liveforphysics said:
I've been looking for a good lacing solution for my own motor of similar size...
I would try 12ga Titanium spokes, long brass nipples with rim washers. Ti flexes much better than steel. Most road cyclists abandoned them because when they are long, Ti spokes don't make a wheel stiff enough for their requirements. Yet I have seen MTB CF rims laced with 20 14ga Ti, lasting abuse that I would never had believed a 20 spoke wheel could stand.
 
MadRhino said:
liveforphysics said:
I've been looking for a good lacing solution for my own motor of similar size...
I would try 12ga Titanium spokes, long brass nipples with rim washers. Ti flexes much better than steel. Most road cyclists abandoned them because when they are long, Ti spokes don't make a wheel stiff enough for their requirements. Yet I have seen MTB CF rims laced with 20 14ga Ti, lasting abuse that I would never had believed a 20 spoke wheel could stand.

I said 11g at first, but now im convinced to used 12g. But its going to be stainless for the time being. Im betting the rim walls can take it, but im not sure about hub motor ring. I ll take its going to have a better survivability than using 36 8g spokes.
 
Alu pop rivets are ideal to make flange washers, when the spoke holes in the flange are too big for the spoke that you lace with. In fact, a flange hole too big with a softer metal washer in whitch the spoke head is punched, is making a better wheel than matched flange holes. My cromotor 1 was laced many years ago with conic flange washers made with Alu pop rivets, relaced a few times since then and still using the same set of washers. Rim washers are brass ideally, oval shape and drilled to suitable angle. Yet I have used steel washers with success, but shaping a whole set is longer than lacing the wheel.
 
My motor arrived today :D

thanks QS very nice. robert thanks for the quick email response and help
also got a sabvoton svmc96080 looks good.

can't wait to take my first test ride

file.php

my_QS_motor.jpg
 
Manny said:
My motor arrived today :D

thanks QS very nice. robert thanks for the quick email response and help
also got a sabvoton svmc96080 looks good.

can't wait to take my first test ride

file.php



Hi Manny can you give some details on which motor that is and that the dropouts and wheel size is? Looks sweet I bet you are excited :)
 
Merlin said:
really?
you want to ride that beast with an 80amp controller? :shock:

i am converting a Aprillia RS50 originally designed for 50 kmh. and i want it to be street legal. so it needs to pass inspection, after that i will change some settings to get 80 kmh top speed probably. i think the controller will be able to manage that. or not?

GmagNeato said:
Hi Manny can you give some details on which motor that is and that the dropouts and wheel size is? Looks sweet I bet you are excited :)

YES i am excited. most of the details are in the pdf, if you need some other measurements let me know

 
Some bad new: :(
My motor is squeaking again. Now after leaving my bike two weeks in my house without moving the wheel I have to "refill" the motor with this stuff I was talking about in my previous post, which name I have forgotten. Well.. Now I have to refill this motor every single day. Otherwise I would have to hear all time this high sounding squeaking.. :O :(
Anyone know how to solve this problem 100%? 
 
Manny said:
i am converting a Aprillia RS50 originally designed for 50 kmh. and i want it to be street legal. so it needs to pass inspection, after that i will change some settings to get 80 kmh top speed probably. i think the controller will be able to manage that. or not?


yup easy. but a 80a limited 2,2kg block wasnt the best idea. + why did you buyed the high voltage version (96v)?
a small kelly did this job easy.
i dont know the rules but of you convert your gas 50ccm bike to electric (official) i think you cant go above 60v.
that means 4,8KW maximum. depends on the wind resistance of your bike, 80kph maybe not possible.

and the motor is also a heavyweight monster that handle 4 times more current you want to ride with.
a normal 205 motor do this job easy with 6kg less weight (6kg rotating mass less (!!))

did you have a build topic? snoopy about your results :)
 
DasDouble said:
Some bad new: :(
My motor is squeaking again. Now after leaving my bike two weeks in my house without moving the wheel I have to "refill" the motor with this stuff I was talking about in my previous post, which name I have forgotten. Well.. Now I have to refill this motor every single day. Otherwise I would have to hear all time this high sounding squeaking.. :O :(
Anyone know how to solve this problem 100%? 

please quote your self what you are talking about. (that means quote your own "last" post and dont let possible guys who can help do the search)
this helps others to answer.
 
Merlin said:
yup easy. but a 80a limited 2,2kg block wasnt the best idea. + why did you buyed the high voltage version (96v)?
a small kelly did this job easy.
i dont know the rules but of you convert your gas 50ccm bike to electric (official) i think you cant go above 60v.
that means 4,8KW maximum. depends on the wind resistance of your bike, 80kph maybe not possible.

and the motor is also a heavyweight monster that handle 4 times more current you want to ride with.
a normal 205 motor do this job easy with 6kg less weight (6kg rotating mass less (!!))

did you have a build topic? snoopy about your results :)

just started a build thread here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=83316

i am planning on running with 24s that will give me 88v and 7kW. i chose this motor because it matched my bike perfectly. a 205 would have to be spoked. originally this bike did not came with spokes.
 
DasDouble said:
Some bad new: :(
My motor is squeaking again. Now after leaving my bike two weeks in my house without moving the wheel I have to "refill" the motor with this stuff I was talking about in my previous post, which name I have forgotten. Well.. Now I have to refill this motor every single day. Otherwise I would have to hear all time this high sounding squeaking.. :O :(
Anyone know how to solve this problem 100%? 
I don't know about the history, nor the motor...
Yet, filling oil everyday to get rid of a squeaking noise is like shutting off the alarm instead of fighting the fire.
Bearings replacement maybe ?
 
Just have to say how much fun the QS 205 3.5T/ MaxE controller set up is. Completely quiet, all I hear is my Shinko 241's and wind.

I'm waiting till I get some ferrofluid and Sketch's heat sinks to really turn up the power but just under 11 KW is just freaking awesome.

The motor has not even hit 180 degrees yet (peaked at 175) and that was riding pretty aggressively up to about 50 mph.

Super cool is all I can say!

Tom
 
Way faster than I'll ever do on an ebike again......was flat to slightly down hill, slow roll on the throttle and full tuck. Scary to say the least with a tee shirt, sweat pants and bicycle helmet.....on a closed course of course! I wonder what it's going to be like at the full 14KW?

Tom
 

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litespeed said:
Way faster than I'll ever do on an ebike again......was flat to slightly down hill, slow roll on the throttle and full tuck. Scary to say the least with a tee shirt, sweat pants and bicycle helmet.....on a closed course of course! I wonder what it's going to be like at the full 14KW?

Tom

What is your OVS setting on this run Tom? What would you say the max cruising speed you can sustain is before your amps exceed 50? I'm really trying to gauge the performance differences between the 5T and 3T versions of this motor. Not sure if it would be worth purchasing a 3T 205 or just going with a 273 for the additional amp handling capability. However, the upcoming HubSinks on a 205 may make it the weapon of choice.. :twisted:
 
I think it's on 2 but I have to check. Not sure on the 50 amp part either. I had a row of sagging cells I replaced earlier. Crazy how constant sucking of the amps compared to the MXUS I had before finds the weak spots of a battery pack. One I get the new cells spot welded back in so I can plug everything in I'll let you know.

If I was doing it again I'd probably buy the 273 just for the sheer size/amp gobbling capabilities assuming someone could lace it into a rim 1 cross or more. I don't like the radial lacing. A 18" rim with a 4" tire would be awesome!

Tom
 
Meet us at INTERMOT 2016 in Cologne (5th - 9th Oct., 2016)
Hall: 6 Stand:A041
Add: Koelnmesse GmbH Messeplatz 1 50679 Cologne, Germany

INTERMOT is short for International Trade Fair for Motorcycles and Scooters, which locate in KOLNMESSE.
Our Boss & Technocial director Mr. Songliang Ruan & General Manager Mr. Miaoguo Ruan will attend.
Domestic sales, Haili Zhang, International Sales Manager Steven Shi, Sales, Vito Ho, Cherry Zhou will all be there.

Our plan is flying to frankfurt since 2nd Oct., 2016, and fly back to Shanghai on 10th Oct., 2016.
Welcomed to visit our booth & please advise when you're convenient.
We will make the schedule in advance (as below), thank you for your support.
Btw., we will live in Hotel - NH Cologne City.
PS. 3th & 4th is Press Day, not Public visit.
HTB1HWBENpXXXXbMXXXXq6xXFXXXB.jpg

HTB1R6kZNXXXXXcIapXXq6xXFXXX9.jpg


Btw., I update the first page "QS MOTOR,0.5-14kW Electric Hub Motor Manufacture China".
Refer to below, https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=65972
HTB1sCw5NXXXXXXIapXXq6xXFXXXm.jpg


Best Regards
 
MadRhino said:
I ordered a 205 H50 V3 30*4T to replace my fried cromotor V2. It is a tad faster, I will post performance results. Also, since it is heavier than a cromotor I might shave some weight off the flange and copy the axle in Titanium this winter.

Thanks Carrie for very good communication and quick replies.

At your service! : )

Best Regards
 
MadRhino said:
I ordered a 205 H50 V3 30*4T to replace my fried cromotor V2. It is a tad faster, I will post performance results. Also, since it is heavier than a cromotor I might shave some weight off the flange and copy the axle in Titanium this winter.

Thanks Carrie for very good communication and quick replies.

At your service! : )

Best Regards
 
gensem said:
MadRhino said:
@gensem

I believe you would have better success with a custom drilled rim. 9 groups of 4 with proper angle for single cross, making a 36 spoke job better than 72 radial, yet lighter.

Another fancy solution is to drill 72, use 9 groups of 4 for single cross and 9 groups of 4 radial. You could use thinner spokes too, they are very short and spokes need some flex to build a perfect wheel.


After reading what all you guys said about racial lacing... Using Justin calculator, 72h single cross should be doable... spoke angles are pretty close to what I had using a cromotor in a 17" rim with 36 spokes.

273_72h.png



Btw, Today I found 17" 1.85 and 2.15 72h alloy rims made in Brazil, so no need to custom order anything, they cost around 80 usd. Any thoughts?

72h_rim.png

Thank you for sharing & keep me informed by email, Davi.
Good luck!

Best Regards
 
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