I've learned a lot since I started my kick scooter project. As a result there's some things I am doing right the first time that took a few tries to get taken care of before. One of them is a power distribution block, large power wires and a 200 amp shunt. The kick scooter started out with 14 awg power wires, then went to 10 awg and finally 6 awg. I'm going straight to 6 awg wires. Same for the shunt. I started with a 50 amp shunt, then upgraded to a 100 amp and finally a 200 amp. And it has 6 awg wires on it too. Originally I had used a few wire nuts to tie things to batt+ or batt- or whatever. Much later, I created a distribution block like this instread. It's all wired with 14 awg wire so anything like lights or a horn or tons of other small stuff can all connect to here. Anyway, It's surprising how much time it takes to do this stuff right, but still much less than redoing things several times! The shunt had 2 tabs on it for bolts for securing the power wires. The 200 amp shunt in my kick scooter used to bolt down the power wires and I eliminated the bolts here too. I cut off the tabs for the bolts and then drilled a hole in either end of the brass ends of the shunt. I drilled a 7.5mm hole just large enough to take the 6 awg battery wire and then drilled and tapped 2 more holes on either side of the brass ends to secure the battery wire in the first hole. It has worked very reliably in my kick scooter and makes for a compact shunt. I used stainless set screws. Before I secure the wire in the hole, I tin the end of it so it's basically a solid mass of wire and solder. Then when I run in the two set screws which compress the wire from either side, it spreads the wire into the hole and also holds the wire is held in place via the set screws. If you loosen the set screws, the wire is so tight in the hole that you have to pull it out with pliers. Of course I leave the set screws in place too. I want maximum contact between the wire and the shunt. I am terminating everything in long 8mm bullet connectors. They cost more, but they also have about 1/2" of length to make up with the other side of the connector. They ought to be able to handle 200 amps no problem.
Even though the moped only has a 1000 watt motor in it right now, the next step is upgrading power, controller and motor for much more current and voltage. These parts are a step in that direction. One refreshing thing about the moped is that it's wiring for lights and whatnot is actually pretty decent quality. In my kick scooter, all the wiring was complete garbage and I stripped it all out and replaced it. Also, the wiring was a total cludge. There was no color code used and one switch might be wired to switch off via the ground wire and something else via the batt+ wire. I spent a considerable amount of time just getting the wiring right. The moped has none of those issues. It was wired correctly at the factory. I'm still replacing a few wires, just because they are low power. The factory battery wires are 16 awg which is waaaay too small for anything practical and they soldered them to the rest of the electrical system and then wrapped the whole mess in electrical tape. That distribution block via the XT60 connector will connect to the battery supply and then all the power wires that are currently soldered together will screw down to the terminal block. Battery power will be separate from the terminal block via a fuse block good for 200 amps. I have one just like it in my kick scooter and it has never given me a moments worth of problems. The fuse block has 4 fuse holders in it that can take anything from a 20 to 60 amp fuse.
As is typical for a lot of electric scooters and mopeds, the lights and other things are meant to run directly off of battery voltage. Well that's fine I suppose, but getting stuff that runs at 98 volts is pretty difficult. However, 12 volt lights, horns and whatever are uber common and cheap since every car, gas moped or motor cycle uses them. As a result, like the kick scooter, I am adding a DC-DC converter, but this one will be good for 20 amps rather than 10 amps. The converter in my kick scooter just barely has the capacity to run everything powered by it with no extra capacity. 20 amps will give me plenty of extra capacity to run a couple of really bright headlights plus lots more. The DC-DC converter I have ordered is good for 110 volts DC down converted to 12 volts at 20 amps.