Stand up faggio EV 3.7kw 16s

It doesn't do it when under load only when the wheel is in the air maybe its phase weakening I don't know really but it does 34mph with wheel in the air and its only on 12s those battery's are for my razor so when this gets its 16s 20ah its gonna be a handful 45+ I think the torque a dual motor will add is gonna be mental.l can't wait :).

The controller is rated at 48v-1500w to 72v-2250w but it goes upto 2.8kw at 48v when at 120% speed its good value for money.
I recommend the shunt gauge I got to you it can control a sperate relay and you can set the max charge values and discharge it could have saved your controller from a nasty spike.
What PSU do you use I can not see hiw the spike made it to the controller in the first place, I use reclaimed server PSUs they have to be able to deal with spikes and keep delicate components safe they are built to very high standards never had an issue other than overload and safety cutout when running heavy duty car amps but I have a hp 12v 187amp version for that now £20 each and run a 1500w amp like a led no troubles at all.
 
I noticed the rear wheel was spinning backwards for an interesting ride so after a bit of scratching my head why my controller would self learn one way then throttle the opposite way it decided to play nice and work can only assume it was confusing the halls up as I really don't know all my wiring is fool proof to stop me blowing it up but its spins correct way now thats the main thing.
 
I would like to see your dual motor setup when you do it. So how much voltage do you plan on using 60v

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There abouts, 16s 20ah lipo or 1.35kw hour total capacity I can fit under the lid the second controller will have to be mounted externally so its back to back with the existing conteoller I'm dreading ordering a controller as some have soft start some don't mine don't so if I got one that did its not going to run to smooth.
The battery charger is just a cc cv psu adjusted to your battery's cell count with a pot proberly and has a simple led to indicate full charge, the BMS is the brains it could happen if its charging feed was not isolated from the controller input and just luck the BMS survived, so the spike caused a ripple on the output of the charger that took the caps out bloody microwave but the main thing is your running again :).
 
Made a new battery adapter tonight its 4 xt90s to a xt90 antispark with 10awg silver coated copper Teflon wire soldered up with my 100w large tip iron to make sure all the solder flowed and had a solid joint all in all its come out tidy but I will make a small + shaped divider to go inside and space them apart slightly, I made 2 link through adapters too only 1 is in the picture, I can use the adapter to run either 3 or 4 , 4s xt90 lipos for 12s to 16s
And for charging remove the antispark plug from controller and send it to the charger remove two battery xt90's and put in the adapters, i can charge 8s lipos half the full pack for a two stage charge at 10amp so it won't take too long around 4hours from flat to get well over 1 hours ride.
I will eventually run the balance wires to a db25 connector mounted internal so it doesnt get full of water or grime and make a loom up for that to make it easier to balance charge
Quick tip always solder rc male/female connectors with the the male and female mated together to stop the pins inside melting and moving about.

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Turns out this controller doesn't regen but if it on a stand and revved full then there's a bit of reverse current, The cintroller seems to have a turbo mode at full speed after say 5 seconds there's a speed boost I hit 40.2mph on the flat with loads of pulling power and I'm only at 12s not 16s so anyone with a stock brushless scooter throw the controller and batterys in the bin and get a sunwin and some lipo you won't regret it.
 
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Quick video of the scooter, The voltage is only at 45.8v or around 25% battery left and I never try to go below 20% so this is as slow as it gets, I was doing just over 41mph down the slight slope according to GPS all on a deplete 12s amazing :)
 
For a chinese controller your doing great. Do you gave links to where you bought the controller.(prefered US links) lol

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I don't have us links but search for a sunwin 48-72v 1500w-2250w I bought mine from china was at my door in UK 8 days later.
There's a thread on here about the sunwin controllers they are very basic no programing etc and its not got a sinasoidal output but they really are a wolf in sheeps clothing for £45 it amazing value.
 
I think I have worked out why the motor sounds like it has a rev limiter when revved hard on a stand, I think the motors magnetic field saturates at very high rpm and been the controller is using the motors inductance like an inverter there would be a drop in back emf causing the drop in voltage and rpm so even if I push more energy into this motor I'm not going to get much more reliable speed with current gearing and voltage if I'm getting it right adding more cells will increase my available torque and then use a smaller rear sprocket to get the speed up or just enjoy the extra pulling power and watch not to go to far and have a melt down.
Ive been looking at changing the rear tyre for one 2cm wider with wet tread but its going to be too close even if i space things out a bit the chain will foul on the tyre and the disc break caliper is no better so I have to use front size tyres all round for now but I will build a new rear end in time with either two of these motors or one of more power and adapt it to fit the wider 110mm tyre rather than 90mm.
 
I know the pocket bike tires are 110/90-6.5. But they are street thread

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Efficiency has shot through the roof with the new controller, I travelled 15miles, climbed 400ft and dropped 500ft so slightly downhill overall but plenty of steep climbs at 42mph max and averaged 26mph, it gets twisty in spots so i have to slow down and i only used 341wh of my 806wh pack or 22.7wh per mile and im not hanging about amazing see what I get on the return trip tomorrow.
At that rate I can travel 28miles to 80% depleted on my 16ah 12s lipo pack when I upgrade in time to 20ah16s I'll be seeing 35m or 55k on a charge easy in favourable condition's.
Just checked an ebikes do around 12wh per mile and thats with assist and at half the speeds so I don't think I'm doing to bad with this one at all.
 
Return trip today and the wind was very strong limited my top speed to 36-38mph but I held it flat out all the way the battery's felt the strain they had discharged 8000mah but was around 70% flat and starting to feel warm, I couldn't get my turbo boost to kick in up the steepest part I had to stop and I was stuck at 30mph till it got a bit flatter, the voltage drop was bring it down to 46v up the hill around 3v drop so I need more discharge capacity to keep the volts high so it will boost anywhere.
Cuz I'm a cheap skate I'll get another 16ah lipo and join in it the ones I got they have about 50cycles so its not ideal but its £40 so I'll take a chance, Ill take it for a run on 16s then and if it wont go over 2.8kw on boost I'll butter the shunt up ever so slightly so i can't have it using less juice than my razor I need more.
Seems these mulistars are on they limit around 50amp or 3.5c continuous at 55amp they start to create a bit of heat and feel warm to the touch knowing this could stretch a 16s pack of these cells to 3.3kw and still have it discharge fairly well and the motor seems to be coping extremely well.
 
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Went for a slow drive today taking in the scenes and not going much faster than 10mph most of the time with the odd blip up to 35-40mph and I managed 23miles to 500wh, One problem I got is that after 30mph the controller jumps from 1.7kw to 2.8kw like a turbo boost and on a wet leafy surface the back wheel is spinning up at 30mph its crazy but I like it perfect for chucking mud everywhere, I not had something as mad as this since I had my little turbo hatchback.
My long term plan now is to use just one motor but I will rewind it to get the kV down low so I can add more cells get more torque out use the same rpm range but use a smaller rear sprocket to get the speed up, just I'm a bit concerned that the turbo boost effect is not amplified the more voltage I chuck at it or it will be lethal.
 
wow fast. too bad its called the faggio, why would they do that.

i missed it..what's the turbo boost? more voltage? star delta switch?

bet slicks would do even better range and those tires are so fat bet they'd get over anything anyway.
 
I call it the faggio after the scooter on grand theft auto but this ones a stand up and electric so I thought if I was to pinch this in GTA it would be called the stand up faggio EV.(treaded tyres are on santas list)
Its inbuilt on the controller when the speed switch is set to 3rd pin (max) it will use 34ish amp till it reaches 30mph and if its happy with the voltage holding stable it starts its second assault and jumps upto 54amp more or less instantaneously and it makes for a fun ride my concern is if i use more voltage and the controller uses the same current settings the wattage jump will be more like 2kw rather than the 1kw that it is now and thats a big kick up arse.
 
Most people who got one of these scooters or similar design will know that the handle bars will move about by an inch or so, theres two places where the movement occurs one is on the folding mech some models are worse than others but the worst culprit for me is the top bearing on the headset no matter how tight it goes it will never work because the bearing is too small, if you look at the handlebar down tube it doesn't even touch the bearing until its pushed forward or back.
So a simple fix for a majority of the movement is to simply keep the bottom bearing race take out the top one and drop in bearings that are slightly larger from a bike crank till the cup is full and when its all tightened up there's alot less movement.
Im cooking up a fix for the fold mech next to stiffen that up a bit, Then two custom yokes and some upside down forks.
 
Below is a picture of the bearing seat and down tube showing the paint wear on point of impact and a clear gap the manufacturer seem to forget about on all models :roll:

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The bearing is a 5/32 or just under 4mm ive had a piece of paper and marked it to give a ruff idea of the bearing size needed the inner of the pencil line is the mark and its around 5.6mm so a 7/32 or 5.55mm bearing will give a snug fit just need a bit of math to work out the bearing count then I'll order some.
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The bottom bearing seems to get away with it as the handle bar down tube has a threaded bottom and a cup to keep everything centered so this top fix will make the world of difference hopefully.
 
Bearing looks like it's missing the inner race. isn't there a way to compress them and tighten it similarly to a threadless headset on a bike? from the top.
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
Bearing looks like it's missing the inner race. isn't there a way to compress them and tighten it similarly to a threadless headset on a bike? from the top.

They are just interference fit as any pressure on the race disforms it and if i tighten the bottom nut to much then the bars just sieze up won't turn to much pressure.

Fixed the folding mech today :mrgreen:
It was such an easy fix I kicked myself there's a lever that locks in on 4 dowels and a pivot point, The harder I pull in the lever the less movement there is in the neck of the frame
I noticed that the manufacture had fitted springs to keep the lever in tension but it's not enough to hold the lever firm the main reason for this is because the springs are attached at the bottom of the lever so its not taking full advantage for the fulcrum point as below
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So an easy fix is to locate the springs up the lever like pictured below you need an arm like Arnie to fold it down now but theres no movement any more and its still functions if your strong enough.
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I got to try that. I just put a piece of rubber on the bottom stop to tighten the force on the dowels.

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dventu said:
I got to try that. I just put a piece of rubber on the bottom stop to tighten the force on the dowels.

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Try it you will be amazed with the results from such a simple mod.

Bought some headlights today they use cree u5 chips with 12-80v wide input and 3 light modes and only consume 15w each.
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http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/112138056085

I also bought a rear mudguard with built in 2 stage brake light, i will use a hi lo relay to wire this so i always have a brake light when the controller is turned on and then it fully illuminates with main lights just like a car etc.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/311625427156
 
I have those (2) headlights and they have halos. It's nice when people turn around and see blazing lights and my music blasting at them.

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Look up cree u7. I have those with green halo. Those your looking at are cree u5. I think

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I did see the u7 and had a look on YouTube at them they look funky but I wanted white long distance beam the purple would draw police attention instantly if they were lerking, I had these really cheap considering they are localy stocked.
How do you find the u7 ? Do they say what spectrum they are 8k I imagine.
 
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