Hi power inverter for Nissan leaf motor. Dyno's 302.3hp p15

This is one side only LED low beam
 

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This is one side ONLY Halogen. LOW BEAM
 

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This is both led LOW beams....
 

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is this ok? can't really judge from the pictures.
i wish i lived where you live. everything you do is SO ILLEGAL here that it screams: get me to jail. *lol*
the 17" rims look really great, and the grey color is very nice as well!
i can't remember to have seen any picture of the batteries? where are the located, and what type are they? do you have pictures?
this car is really a beast and i'm really jealous!
congratulations!
 
izeman said:
is this ok? can't really judge from the pictures.
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The are much better.


Read the part where i say they use 5.5amps less!!!!! thats better and as a bonus they are a bit brighter.
 
Arlo1 said:
Read the part where i say they use 5.5amps less!!!!! thats better and as a bonus they are a bit brighter.
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sure. lower current is better. something you don't really take care off with an ICE.
my bike's led light is 20W, but i don't care. that's only 1% of the motor consumption. but compared to your car this is the only additional power drain i have. no air condition, no radio, power windows etc ...
 
Arlo1 said:
I swapped out all lights to LED other then the High beams and that's only because they are not in yet. The low beams I ordered SAY 45watt but they use 15 watts each. Which is fine because they are just a touch brighter and reflect off of signs a lot better.
But what I really wanted was to reduce the load on the charging system. The Led Low beams alone reduced the load by 5.5 amps.

My Charging system is 2 22amp 12v output mean wells. One on the Top 230v of the pack and one on the bottom 230v of the pack. They are isolated so its ok.

So I have 44 amps total. And now with the Halogen high beams led low beams led marker signal brake lights and all other loads even with the stereo cranked it uses 37 amps. Even both front and rear windshield wipers were on. Hopping for a couple more amp reduction with the LED high beams.

Things to figure out are Fast charger.

And HEAT. This is a tricky one. As the heater core is not usable in the car I cut off the spigots under the hood to make room for batteries.

And I don't want to run HV inside the cab for a ceramic heater.....

The list to finish is large as well its not water proof yet.
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Check out http://www.t7design.co.uk/ if you are considering hot water based heating on a weight budget.
My implementation in our '84 Mini: http://www.irishminis.ie/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=10656.
 
Cool. But I want to run it on the Traction Battery. I also don't want to circulate coolant. If I can avoid it.
The heater core is destroyed and not accessible.
 
have you looked into registering your EV as "Home Built" yet? i went to local DMV last year and asked about it. they said its super rare, like 1 person every 10 years asks, but its basically straight forward. fill out the paperwork that says who built it and is it from part pieces or a kit and provide all the receipts that show you bought it all and its not stolen. then goto canadian tire where they certify for safety (you should get their list of things they check, but its basically do you have lights, blinkeres work, anything protruding from body etc). all in all it didn't seem bad. i never investigated insurance
 
HighHopes said:
have you looked into registering your EV as "Home Built" yet? i went to local DMV last year and asked about it. they said its super rare, like 1 person every 10 years asks, but its basically straight forward. fill out the paperwork that says who built it and is it from part pieces or a kit and provide all the receipts that show you bought it all and its not stolen. then goto canadian tire where they certify for safety (you should get their list of things they check, but its basically do you have lights, blinkeres work, anything protruding from body etc). all in all it didn't seem bad. i never investigated insurance
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My motorcycle is a bunch of different Zero parts and some things I built and what not. I registered it as a "Home built" it can take a long time and there is a lot of hoops to jump through.

The Electric Crx is insured as a normal car and has been insured as a normal car for ~6 months. I don't see this as a problem. But I do need to get the color changed which I will do when the insurance runs out or before I try to drive it to California next year.
 
sholland said:
Any estimates of how much power you are getting out of the Leaf motor? How is it holding up?
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Motor is fine. I was putting ~102kw into it but limited to batteries. I am currently adding another 205kw (20kwh) worth of batteries.

Then I will crank it up until something gives.

The motor has no problem with high power. In fact without adding any more toque you can make 250-300hp from the leaf motor which would still be 100% reliable because there would not be any additional heat and no additional stress on the gear reduction and cv shafts.

Nissan run full torque only until 2300 rpm then they reduced the torque (by reducing the phase current) to keep the system from drawing to much current from the OEM battery.

Torque is what puts stress on the drive line components.

Phase amps is what puts heat into the motor and controller.

So if you just keep the same torque and phase amps (which is how you control torque) past 2300 rpm you will make more HP then the oem system.
 
I'm so excited for you to find out what happens with a real tire on it and a 300kW capable pack.
 
Arlo1 said:
sholland said:
Any estimates of how much power you are getting out of the Leaf motor? How is it holding up?
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Motor is fine. I was putting ~102kw into it but limited to batteries. I am currently adding another 205kw (20kwh) worth of batteries.

Then I will crank it up until something gives.

The motor has no problem with high power. In fact without adding any more toque you can make 250-300hp from the leaf motor which would still be 100% reliable because there would not be any additional heat and no additional stress on the gear reduction and cv shafts.

Nissan run full torque only until 2300 rpm then they reduced the torque (by reducing the phase current) to keep the system from drawing to much current from the OEM battery.

Torque is what puts stress on the drive line components.

Phase amps is what puts heat into the motor and controller.

So if you just keep the same torque and phase amps (which is how you control torque) past 2300 rpm you will make more HP then the oem system.
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Hi
I have EM61 motor here and building Pauls inverter. I would like inverter to know motor temperature at least up to 90°C.
Do you have any data about Leaf motor thermistor values above 40°C? Is there some reference which sensor it uses?

tnx

Arber
 
Got things working pretty good.... Just about ready to crank it up.

I have a 30.5kwh (usable energy) battery thats good for over 410hp! Its 112s and currently set to 350 battery amps.

Feels good!!!! REAL GOOD!

[youtube]9fU18Up8t4E[/youtube]
 
zombiess said:
Anyway to put an LSD in it?
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It's not an easy task. Most of the time both wheels will spin and at the start for the first 10ish feet both were spinning. But unfortunately nobody makes a LSD or a quafe for a leaf
 
Any chance Nissan raided the parts bin for the Leaf's diff? I've got a feeling the answer is "no" considering how different the whole transmission is to their multi-speed ICE cars, but you never know...
 
Punx0r said:
Any chance Nissan raided the parts bin for the Leaf's diff? I've got a feeling the answer is "no" considering how different the whole transmission is to their multi-speed ICE cars, but you never know...
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I think you start by looking at what models come with a lsd.....
 
Arlo1 said:
Punx0r said:
Any chance Nissan raided the parts bin for the Leaf's diff? I've got a feeling the answer is "no" considering how different the whole transmission is to their multi-speed ICE cars, but you never know...
Click to expand...
I think you start by looking at what models come with a lsd.....
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Mind you I've never held or measured or anything to a LEAF differential. That said, I have installed quite a few Nissan differentials for FWD and RWD. You wouldn't expect it, but it's an enormous year-range and model range for Nissan's that can swap LSD differentials. This doesn't mean that the LEAF may not be it's own unique thing, but just as a data-point, you an swap LSD's between a BUNCH of models of Subaru and a BUNCH of models of Datusn/Nissan and a BUNCH of models of Mazda and amazingly, and over a rear-range of like 1975 to mid 2000's. They typically just need a different ring-gear bolted onto the LSD, and occasionally different sized bearings pressed on, but otherwise it's extremely handy how they basically standardized the differential on so many models across mfg's for so many decades.

I would say it's at least worth investigating what may fit for LSD in a LEAF for a street car. If it's a track car and you're on slicks, I realize this controversial and counter-intuitive to claim, but LSD or open diff makes essentially ZERO difference in a car running drag slicks on a sticky track. I couldn't tell you why exactly, but from decades of observations, an LSD or no LSD at the drag strip makes essentially no impact on torque steer or 60ft times.

On normal asphalt on normal street tires it makes a very notable difference to have an LSD.
 
i didn't understand anything of that, lol
 
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