Stand up faggio EV 3.7kw 16s

Not sure what spectrum. But the beam is basically the same as the u5. I'm not sure how picky UK officers are. Where on my scooter at night I have horse race led strips , 2 of cree u7 on the front then a meilan tailight. I just need to figure out how to make my Lyen controller to work with a brake light.

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To do this you need the original levers with the brake cutout switch or a bit more difficult is to add Hall sensor and magnet to hydraulic levers to get the same effect, If both the front and rear brakes are on the same hi or lo brake wire then only one relay is needed like below.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/291843235920

If two different signals are used one high and one low then you will need a two relay assembly then just pair the outputs to the brake light. Both my brakes are on lo circuit so I don't use any energy in the motor to assist braking just cuts the controller throttle and uses the discs to stop as i not got regen and i don't want to use even more energy to stop my batterys would get no rest, I then power the relay and use the controller brake wire as the 5v trigger be it hi or lo and it will open and close the relay then in time with the brakes been applied and send the 12v to the led brake light, I then use the tail light on the headlight illumination wire so it acts like a car then brake light when ever controller is active and tail light with headlight.

I had 24, 7/32 bearings today in the post got them fitted 21 in total and the front end is transformed not a bit of movement from the handlebars now even when pulled back and for can not recommend enough on these folding mechs to move the spring up the lever and swap the top bearings out from 5/32 in a race to 21 lose 7/32's with out a race
I noticed there's a lot of dirt in the bearing cup's as there's nothing to protect from water dropping dirt in there, so I'm on the look out now for two rubber rings that will fit over the gaps nicely and give a level of seal against dirt.

The dirt in my bearings are ridiculous. I don't have slop from my bearings yet.

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I got my lights in the post today and got them fitted, just a bit if wiring left to do tomorrow, The mudguard and brake light is designed for a motocross bike so it took a bit of work to get it to fit decent but I got there in the end.
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Last nite I went to bed and it clicked in my head as things do, that the 5v I was going to be supplying the relays coil did not share its ground with the controller brake hi/lo so it wouldn't have worked, To resolve this I opened the controller and there's 5v on the board so i checked it shared ground with the brake lo circuit which it does i then used two extra wires out of the controller with the 5v and gnd on them just to power the relay then the brake hi/lo will also be the signal to work the relay and release 12v from my dcdc convertor to the brake light.

Don't you think the lights are to low. Atleast for drivers to notice you.

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I don't think they will miss me with the light intensity i know its to low for street legal regulations but if you cant see it your to close. Most of my ride is off road so the tail light is mostly for show this scooter is not road legal I would need indicators horn and mirrors then take it for an expensive road worthyness test and I would have to limit it to 48v 1000w and spend lots.
If I was serious about travelling on the road electrically I would get a moped that is street legal but I don't see its advantages over petrol for long distance trips and ease of use this scooter is my fun toy for short trips save pulling my car out.

Got it all wired up and the brake light doesn't work on lever so I'll need an additional relay to trigger the hi lo of the controller by sending 12v to the levers to close the two relays and rewire its 5v feed from the controller to my DC converter.
My shunt display did not light up but ive swapped it supply and it may be just under the needed voltage so I walked away from it tonight and I'll look at it tomorrow with a fresh head.

Got the shunt working today and removed the u2 chip from the headlights they use 20w a pair now full beam rather than 35w strobeing, having a quite one tonight crazy missus time so need a rest in a dark quite room

I moved the springs up like you did. And I still have the same slop. The handle is definitely stiffer. To remove the slop I just put a rubber Stop on the bottom.

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@ dventu have a look if the movement is coming from the top bearing on mine it was combination of the two.

Ive got my permanent plan to make it faster now, Im going to rewind my spare motor to lower the Kv rating theres plenty of room for better packing its like a damp pot noodle the windings are loose and everywhere after a rewind ill get better copper fill and heat management, atleast another turn of identical gauge winding so ill lower the kv and increase the torque buy having a stronger magnetic field but the trick is i will terminate it in delta it raises the kV rating for same voltage, i will lose a bit of torque overall but I will gain the all important top end rpms currently the motor revs to 6krpm at 2.8kw (12s) I would like to take it to 8k rpm + and 4kw (16s) around 50mph current gearing so another 4s 16000mah lipo and some winding wire is on my list with a new chain and sprocket setup around the same gearing 4.9-1 current to 4.7-1 and 420 chain, new smooth tyres the off roads look good but are not wheel balanced and are affecting the rpms a little I believe and defiantly will the harder I push them the rear rim runs true but the tyre does not at the moment.
It will have cost me around £400 then all in total investment so I'm happy with the performance output of it bang for buck wise.
Lots of pics to follow

I don't want to spend money to go faster if i can get my goal of 50mph cheaper specially as times are tough, So I have thought I may as well reterminate the motor in delta and run it in 16s with new tyres see just how fast I can get on a low budget that will cost me only £50 on top of my £300 so I'll be in for £350 not that I want to sell it but I think Its value is easily around that mark , I will stick with the t8f chain and sprockets for now I think in delta there will be less torque so it should hold up so a little change to my permanent plan but still get the same outcome hopefully which is 50mph .

Meaty pictures tomorrow of the motor mods and hopefully a video of it running delta and 48v on the knobbly tyres if all goes well I will smash my top speed record and build up a profile of the motor heat and performance wise ready to push it to 16s.

Ive built a battery holder today for my lipos that fills the spare room left in my scooters battery tray, no pics yet but its 9 plates with enough space on them each for 1 layer of my packs holding them in two lots of 8s, With a 5mm threaded bar on each conner and centre to compress the cells a little and keep them cool its only simple but hopefully it should perform better long term than the sleeving.

What are you rewinding the motor to i would like to do this as well.

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When I get it all stripped down I'll draw it on paper and work out my resistances and best sized wire for copper fill and do a good picture rich thread so anyone can follow along if they wish, Ive been busy making my battery plates today ive had to change design I'll try get my battery complete soon as I can then I'll crack on with motor may be a week as I'm a bit busy at moment.

Ive got my 16s 16ah pack made up now, its arranged in two 8s packs in top if each other.
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The pack consists of 32, 8ah lipo cells arranged in 16s2p with a continuous output of 4kw its still ambient to the touch, I have it set up in 8s blocks because my charger only goes upto 10s balance charge and cheap lv lipo alarms are 8s max so two of those will take care of my low voltage cell level and my shunt gauge will knock the controller off when overall under voltage occurs so I'm double covered and both are adjustable.
My controllers LV can be set for 12,15 and 18s lipo, so my controller would keep running till each cells reaches around 3.28v if I relied on that which is too low for lipo but thats all taken care off with the shunt it will kill the power with a gross under voltage or the alarms on a single cell drop.

Just a little update ive wrapped the battery to stop any ingress of dirt and flipped the grouped cells so all the connectors are in same place its a bit hard to see from the pictures but none of the cells are touching each other there's a plate between each group and about a 1cm gap between the paired two, so its not going to gather heat in the centre of a pyle of cells and they have equal pressure across the top not to round the edges.


And a little video showing it rev up there's a massive difference in power its shaking like a big block Chevy and can feel there's a lot more grunt its gonna hit 45mph now easy running at 67.2v, 16s, 3.7kw batterys side, and the battery is 0.95kwh.

[youtube]exNb8Mc0-7Q[/youtube]

Took the scooter out for its test run on 16s, I left the batterys with their storage charge around 3.80v cell, I had just under 61v total, I managed 45.3mph on the flat and I had to back off because of traffic this is impressive considering I was 6v down from full charge.

Tomorrow is a nice day for the valleys so I will fully charge the pack in the morning find myself a drag strip and let it stretch its legs, 50mph might be on the cards with a little tweaking here and there I'm still on off road tyres and stock gearing.

Got some hydraulic disc brakes coming tomorrow, they are Clark's m2 front and back for £41 delivered i got them with a reward voucher off amazon so they cost me 70p really, they not the best brake out there but they are good and for this budget scooter they will fit the purpose and outshine the mechanical disc brakes that are present, I not going to worry about the brake hi/low ill leave it disconnected so ill just have to be careful as the throttle will still work under braking like a gasoline burner I took it for a ride today like this with no troubles felt the same to me my throttle is a thumb not twist so its unlikely I'll whisky throttle it.

On the plus side I'll be able to do burnouts

I swapped the front disc over to 160mm and kept the 140mm rear, The hydraulic hoses are too short both front and back so I can swap the rear hose to front and order a 2m hose for the rea, the front caliper fits like a glove no disc rubbing and i can feel the difference In power, a hydraulic lever is just much nicer to pull.
The rear rim disc mount puts the disc 5mm closer to the rim, so I couldn't fit a 160mm disc to the rear without spacing it out (not ideal) so Im going with the 140mm and no spacing so its still got hydraulics all round and a bonus is I have a spare set of discs now.
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Fitted the rear caliper with 140mm stock disc its fairly close to the rim around 1mm or so but it does not rub, all runs true no knocks or bangs so its good to go, the front has just under 3mm caliper clearance to rim but at the moment nothing is rubbing at all and thats a first, so its going to roll better and with a larger disc upfront and hydraulics it should stop better and feel easier to control my slowing speeds.
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Done my rpm calcs for my speeds from achieved speeds.

Rim diameter= 6.5inchs ×2.54cm = 16.51cm (2.54cm In 1 inch)
Tyre profile= 6.5cm ×2 = 13cm + 16.51= 29.51cm wheel diameter
Wheel diameter × pi = wheel circumference
29.51×3.14159= 92.7083209
160934.4 cm in mile
Cm in mile ÷ wheel circumference = wheel rotations per mile
160934.4÷92.7083209 = 1735.9218507
Wheel rotations per mile × top speed = wheel rotations per hour
1735.9218507×45.3mph = 78637.2598406
Wheel rotations per hour ÷ 60mins = wheel rotations per minute
78637.2598406÷60= 1310.6209972
Wheel RPM × gearing = Motor RPM
1310.6209972 × 4.9090909 = 6433.9576110 rpm
Rpm ÷ voltage = kV
6433.9576110÷ 60.8v=105.8216712rpm/volt (45.3mph ruff estimate no voltage sag taken into account)
7101.4984673÷67.2v=105.6770605 rpm/volt (50mph complete estimate lower kV would suggest its possible )

I did not take voltage sag into account for rpm volt as I only looked at the packs stationary volts of 60.8 or 3.8v cell, for the 45.3mph test and the 50mph is fictional at the moment its just a ruff estimate but it proves it is on the cards and 45.3mph theres was no significant heat build up in the motor and I did not trigger my 3.7v alarm, I believe a full pack will have less sag too so with the 7100rpm kV calc above showing a slightly lower kV outcome with full battery voltage, its showing my system is just about capable of 50mph and considering I hit 45.3 mph with a flat 16s battery with a cell voltage of 3.8v and under, and it was still accelerating with a bit more torque available I believe that with a full charge and the right conditions and tarmac, 50mph is easily within my grasp on this budget scooter with a stock motor.

People have there opinion about hydraulic and cable but those calibers Looked pretty cool.

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dventu said:

People have there opinion about hydraulic and cable but those calibers Looked pretty cool.

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Click to expand...

The cables are cheaper and easier to maintain, hydraulics give a bit more pad pressure I find, The levers I bought have got an olive stuck on one side so I cut the lever free shortened the hose and got the front brake finished, but I can't fit the rear until I get the jammed olive out, Ive managed to pull the hose off too in the vice its all jammed so tight, so I may have to dissamble the whole lever and punch it out from inside what a pain in arse, nice levers but overtightned at assembly cause me a nightmare now to fit a new hose.

Amazon has agreed to swap my lever over so its going to be end of the week now till I get this running, manufacturer has not replyed to me so at least they are aware that there's faults with the assembly process, hopefully this next lever is a good one.
I'll be swaping the sprockets from a 11-54 tooth 4.9090909 ratio to a 9-44 tooth 4.8888888 ratio, it will give me 1kph more top speed and better acceleration I hope, The chain will be a few links shorter so it will be stronger and lighter and the sprockets smaller so less spinning mass so it should be a way of pulling a fraction more top end out of it.