Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

mudale222 said:
U should physically turn off ur ebike every time u get off them. This is the safe thing to do regardless of voltage drop. Any vehicle that not in immediate use should be turn off. I have small nephew (maybe 6 years old) who fully switched the throttle in the middle of the house.. It's flew like a rocket into the refrigerator... Easily could be a disaster.
In the adaptto u have two wires to make a switch. Use it.

I agree, my controller didn't come with those 2 wires because I had an early version. But there are instructions showing how to do this modification. I should do this as an extra safety.
ridethelightning said:
I had this exact thing happen with 2 adaptto bikes, after leaving for ~3 months.

normally they dont lose any charge even when sitting for several weeks, but i got back to find one 2kwh and 3kwh ,22s packs at 10v and 26v respectively. :shock: :cry:
not sure what happened. the dc/dc was disconnected so not that, i think it may be suspend mode not working but who knows!

-always turn your bike off or disconnect battery for any length of storage!

Odd, you must have had it turn on or it didn't enter suspend mode like mine.

I also had my DC -DC connector switched off, I had no other load on the battery.

Thats my worst nightmare coming back and finding a huge pack like ours at low voltage like that. I already had this happen to a 2KW lipo pack, but it dropped to around 2.5 volt per cell and seemed fine after charging it. I had my DC-DC converters hooked at the time, but they don't draw much power in standby so I usually just left them on.

What we have learned is that just because the controller doesn't seem to draw much power, there may be conditions where it may draw extra power beyond our control so we have to assume this could happen at any time.
 
totally. i managed to charge and balance both packs,to my astonishment, which were samsung 20r and 30Q. so far iv tested the 30Q which seems fine but im worried itl short at some murfies' moment.

li ion seems to be really good at holding a charge as long as its NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING!
 
Same thing happened to me. Left bike on and I killed 15 4s Lipo packs. Had to chunk them all in the garbage (aka battery recycling bin). I believe I had a BMS or failed cell that then killed the rest of the packs while trying to balance but it only took a few days for it to happen. :shock:
 
If you have no on/off switch, maybe tou could use your trip switch fuse if you can get to it easily enough? That and a precharge line when switching back on if you fear for your capacitors
 
fets are rated for 100v, with every 100Aphase current, you get spikes of 10v, so theoretically 200A might be ok, and there will be sag with that. there is some leeway, but id say 300A-350A would be pushing it.
 
Hello again gents,

Is anyone using the 'Screen Heater' option? From what I gather it comes on automaticatally at sub 10degC, only with the controller turned on?

Temps are starting to drop here and a few quirks are popping up. Last year I didn't have issues and could store the bike inside at work over night shifts, this year the workshop isn't heated..
 
ccmdr said:
Hello again gents,

Is anyone using the 'Screen Heater' option? From what I gather it comes on automaticatally at sub 10degC, only with the controller turned on?

Temps are starting to drop here and a few quirks are popping up. Last year I didn't have issues and could store the bike inside at work over night shifts, this year the workshop isn't heated..

Never heard of screen heater, but seeing the damned thing was tried and tested in Russia then i can see how this might come in handy. Where have you heard about the screen heater?
 
brumbrum said:
ccmdr said:
Hello again gents,

Is anyone using the 'Screen Heater' option? From what I gather it comes on automaticatally at sub 10degC, only with the controller turned on?

Temps are starting to drop here and a few quirks are popping up. Last year I didn't have issues and could store the bike inside at work over night shifts, this year the workshop isn't heated..

Never heard of screen heater, but seeing the damned thing was tried and tested in Russia then i can see how this might come in handy. Where have you heard about the screen heater?

you can turn it on or off before firmware flash if you insert SD card
 
Since getting darker I changed the contrast to suit, and remembered about this options availablility. There is a youtube in russian with the prototype Adaptto. Just wondering if anyones actually used it, and if you can have it active with the twin pigtailed switch off but battery still connected. Don't really want to leave the controller active over a 12hr night shift where I can't properly be sure other colleagues aren't being phantom cowboys...

[youtube]REipx7VDn4g[/youtube]
 
Hi guys, 
following problem: My screen shows me the wrong driven kilometers and a wrong speed. Instead of 25km/h it show 18-19 km/h and instead of for example 22km range it shows 15km. What can I do?
-Merci
 
In Controller Setup / Speed Ratio, you enter your number for your particular bike.
It's the circumference of your rear tire in mm, divided by your total gear ratio from motor to rear wheel, divided by the number of poles of your motor.
 
Hey, does anyone know what triggers 'PROTECT' mode? Ive found a few references to it but no definitive definition short of speculation around temp. My revolt 160 short keeps cutting out under hard acceleration (nothing over 9kw) predominately at low speed with 'PROTECT' briefly displaying. Back off the throttle and all is good again. Doesn't appear to be a temp issue with Engine and controller not breaking a sweat.
 
9lives said:
Hey, does anyone know what triggers 'PROTECT' mode? Ive found a few references to it but no definitive definition short of speculation around temp. My revolt 160 short keeps cutting out under hard acceleration (nothing over 9kw) predominately at low speed with 'PROTECT' briefly displaying. Back off the throttle and all is good again. Doesn't appear to be a temp issue with Engine and controller not breaking a sweat.

there had been a few controllers with such issue. i would contact adaptto (i think they can identify it from serial number or so)
 
9lives said:
Hey, does anyone know what triggers 'PROTECT' mode? Ive found a few references to it but no definitive definition short of speculation around temp. My revolt 160 short keeps cutting out under hard acceleration (nothing over 9kw) predominately at low speed with 'PROTECT' briefly displaying. Back off the throttle and all is good again. Doesn't appear to be a temp issue with Engine and controller not breaking a sweat.
I saw this with when I set my phase amps too high on my unlocked Mini-E, before I killed it that is.

Experiment with setting different phase amp values and see if it still happens.

Cheers
 
Firmware v1-RC9G4 with the eco mode password locked
Anybody already loaded the FW with eco pswd locked? How does it works? Is it always enabled or can be enabled and disabled with a setup option?

QS205 and OVS
My QS205 does not react at OVS. I obtain the same top speed at OVS=0° and at 2,3... until 7°. Anybody noticed the same thing?
 
I'm wondering if I could only use a fuse and NO DC circuit breaker on my Adaptto setup. If a short or an overload happens, the fuse would blow and I'd replace it. This should not happen unless something goes wrong (or my fuse is undersized). I was initially planning on using some sort of weatherproof panel mount circuit breaker to entirely cut the power from the battery when not using the bike from the outside of the battery compartment but finding such a circuit breaker seems impossible. Without the circuit breaker, this means the Adaptto controller would be powered all the time from the battery. I read in this thread that with the key switch in the OFF position, the Adaptto should draw very limited current from the battery.

Could I only use the key switch and a fuse to protect the system from overloads and shorts while preventing the battery from draining if I'm not using the bike for several days ?

Thanks for sharing your experience, this forum is awesome!
 
I use a dc circuit breaker/trip switch but never turn it off. I use an on/off rocker switch to power up and down and have left my bike for 5 weeks without use and there is negligible draining on the battery, practically nothing. I use the two thin green and red wires that come out of the PAS connector that come on the more recent adaptto controllers to wire up the switch. If you have this then use it. Adaptto recommend a 63a rated trip switch but i am sure a correct rated in line fuse would work too.

If you do not have the greeen and red thin wires then Adaptto will add them for you but it would be for a price. You can also do it yourselff by opening up the controller and following instructions that Adaptto published on this forum. It is probably deep inside this thread somewhere or maybe on the adaptto thread in the 'For Sale' section of the forum. Or maybe someone can find you a link to it?

I could not tell you for certain if you could just add an on/off key switch on a battery terminal wire as the switch would have to be quite chunky to take the amps/voltage when the battery is in use.
 
Thanks brumbrum for your feedback. It looks promising.

brumbrum said:
Adaptto recommend a 63a rated trip switch but i am sure a correct rated in line fuse would work too.
I am expecting to reach 160A battery peak current. I was therefore looking for a 125A circuit breaker that would trip in around 30 seconds at 160A. Can you point me to this 63A recommendation you are referring to (thread, website, documentation, etc.) ?

I will be getting a MAX-E, I do not have it yet. The key switch wires will be available on this controller.
 
guf said:
Thanks brumbrum for your feedback. It looks promising.

brumbrum said:
Adaptto recommend a 63a rated trip switch but i am sure a correct rated in line fuse would work too.
I am expecting to reach 160A battery peak current. I was therefore looking for a 125A circuit breaker that would trip in around 30 seconds at 160A. Can you point me to this 63A recommendation you are referring to (thread, website, documentation, etc.) ?

I will be getting a MAX-E, I do not have it yet. The key switch wires will be available on this controller.


One of these will probably do the trick, as tested by Allex who's website the link below leads to. Allex is an authorized adaptto distributor, active member on here and has tried and tested adaptto products from the very beginning and can speak Russian which he does with the adaptto team from what i gather. http://adaptto.envolt.se/Products/ADDITIONAL-PARTS/Legrand-C63/ or two in parrallel if one alone trips too quickly.

And yes, you will have the ignition wires which you can easily solder a on/off rocker switch to like i have on my bike.... you can see it here on the right side of this photo in green mounted on the handle as an emergency kill switch....
 
I've had seen 196 amps on my MaxE screen when excellerating and only have a single 63 amp DC Breaker..... I think you will be fine with just a single 63 amp one. This is with a QS205 3.5T.

Tom
 
Hi all,

Today i was going to try to change a few settings, but the controller won't accept the password. I have used this code every time. In the manual it is written, that i need a mastercode. Where I get thisone?

Or can i reset the controller to access it again?

Thx for help
Josef
 
Hello! I've been working on a Lightning Rods + Adaptto Mini project and could use some advice.

After modifying some settings, the autodetect process worked perfectly from what I can tell. It was smooth and spun up to speed properly at the end stage.

The problem is that after exiting auto detect and being in ride mode, the system is still smooth and starts properly but seems to be severely limited in power output. The motor will not spin more than maybe 25% of max speed, with a power drain of around 100W.

If anyone knows what settings may affect this or has any input, I would sincerely appreciate it.
 
Back
Top