Rix
100 TW
Thats one cool video!
Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER
- Thread starter Qulbix
- Start date
devo1223
100 W
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=82001
Next one is in April. They're all on middrives, cyclone/tangents. I think a hubbie could win it. The course is fast and loose, 15mi. I'm trying to decide what to put my mxus v3 on, Qulbix or Beta?
Quokka
1 kW
Mxus v3 wont fit on a beta. Been there. The closed torque plates are too small to fit the v3 axle.
Dumsterdave
100 W
i thought the axle on the QS was bigger than the MXUS?
Quokka
1 kW
The threaded part of both the mxus v3 and qs205 are M16 threads with 10 mm flats. The beta frame has a closed torque plate design that integrates into the swing arm and is M14- hence the v3 wont fit. How do i know this? I bought a V3 turbo and was going to bolt it up to beta 
.
Away from the threaded section of the axle the qs is chunkier
.Away from the threaded section of the axle the qs is chunkier
devo1223
100 W
Well that makes my decision easy, thank you. I heard the 16m axle would be a problem but I figured its only 2m, couldn''t you just take a file to it?
Quokka
1 kW
Nope- 2mm off the plate will make it useless. The drop outs on betas are no where near as chunky as the qulbix. If you do get a qulbix, be sure to measure the length of the axle compared to the swing arm width. My Q76R 165mm wide swing arm are a bit too wide- only have 6 threads or so thread to play with to mount the engine with. In my opinion the 150mm option would best for a mxus v3
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Yes go for the 150mm or 155mm swingarm if using the MXUS 3000.
It would work with the 165mm swingarm, but not optimal. You would probably want to dish the wheel a little bit if using a 165.
I don't think there is really any reason to go with a 165mm swingarm now that nobody uses a cromotor anymore. I am not sure if it makes sense to even use a 165mm swingarm with a QS motor.
The funny thing is we should probably be making the hub motors wider and increasing swingarm width for more torque.
It would work with the 165mm swingarm, but not optimal. You would probably want to dish the wheel a little bit if using a 165.
I don't think there is really any reason to go with a 165mm swingarm now that nobody uses a cromotor anymore. I am not sure if it makes sense to even use a 165mm swingarm with a QS motor.
The funny thing is we should probably be making the hub motors wider and increasing swingarm width for more torque.
Rix
100 TW
Adding to what OffRoader said, I feel that 150mm wide swingarm is optimal for axle thread exposure. My Alpha has a 150mm wide swingarm and I got enough room to move the motor inbetween the drop outs for perfect spacing for chain alignment and disk brake alignment and lots of axle threads exposed on both sides for wider axle nuts.
John Bozi
100 kW
So would the 150mm work with a downhill bicycle wheel? (for us mid drive freaks) or does it require custom work...? Anyone running it as such?
Mammalian04
100 kW
John, I know you are following The LightningRod developments. Right now, his prototype rear hub for the mid-drive is for the 165mm dropouts. His 150mm version will come a bit later.
The 165 dropout does seem to be the more flexible option, with the understanding that you are going to be out of threads on the axle for the QS205 with dropout reinforcement blocks bolted on the swing arm.
Like you guys said, knowing the application ahead of time would be best but in cases such as mine, I have standardized on 165mm dropouts, since that is what all my Qulbix are, so I am making dye with that. Props to Mike for creating new products for us to fill the need.
The 165 dropout does seem to be the more flexible option, with the understanding that you are going to be out of threads on the axle for the QS205 with dropout reinforcement blocks bolted on the swing arm.
Like you guys said, knowing the application ahead of time would be best but in cases such as mine, I have standardized on 165mm dropouts, since that is what all my Qulbix are, so I am making dye with that. Props to Mike for creating new products for us to fill the need.
Damn, he is making a rear hub also. That is really good that finally someone is designing this stuff for Ebikes. The problem I find with ebikes is that bicycle components are too weak and dirt bike components are too heavy and strong. This is why electric bikes fall in the middle and need their own components.
Same goes with tires and rims, the motorcycle tires and rims everyone uses are way too strong and also heavy for ebikes. Yet any bicycle tire or rim on the rear is too weak.
I'm personally not going to get involved with mid-drive stuff until it progresses. I'd want to see an adaptto silent sine wave controller that works with middrive, plus a more quiet drive train. I also heard that there is some lag or delay in the drive train? Someone said that with his mid-drive setup it was very difficult to wheelie the bike because of a delay in the drive train from when giving throttle to when the rear wheel moves.
I think mid drives are still a couple of years away. The hub motors work just fine for me with my custom cooling modification and probably for the fact I don't weigh so much so climbing isn't an issue unlike for you guys who weigh over 200 lbs.
So I'll just wait it out and let you guys do all the work perfecting it. :wink:
Same goes with tires and rims, the motorcycle tires and rims everyone uses are way too strong and also heavy for ebikes. Yet any bicycle tire or rim on the rear is too weak.
I'm personally not going to get involved with mid-drive stuff until it progresses. I'd want to see an adaptto silent sine wave controller that works with middrive, plus a more quiet drive train. I also heard that there is some lag or delay in the drive train? Someone said that with his mid-drive setup it was very difficult to wheelie the bike because of a delay in the drive train from when giving throttle to when the rear wheel moves.
I think mid drives are still a couple of years away. The hub motors work just fine for me with my custom cooling modification and probably for the fact I don't weigh so much so climbing isn't an issue unlike for you guys who weigh over 200 lbs.
So I'll just wait it out and let you guys do all the work perfecting it. :wink:
John Bozi
100 kW
Thanks for the replies.
I would not recommend a bb mid drive to anyone who wants power at the same time as rough terrain. They are good off road for powering on smoothe and then separately using suspension. Both at the same time leads to never ending problems. Issue two is crabbing. And yes, if you want instant power then a JS is not the place to go.
The motor on swing arm has been a winning looking combination a long time before LR started venturing toward it.
You have both possibly 80% more sprung motor, probably a lighter motor, and only one chain not running through a pivot or freewheel.
whether or not I could be bothered with another power via chain at all is a different story, but this swingarm design makes it more possible....
I am very interested in this frame.... My DT SWISS through axle 150mm has been awesome with regular mtb dh tyres excellent. a wider dropout could cause less options....
yes having goals worked out is important.
cheers
I would not recommend a bb mid drive to anyone who wants power at the same time as rough terrain. They are good off road for powering on smoothe and then separately using suspension. Both at the same time leads to never ending problems. Issue two is crabbing. And yes, if you want instant power then a JS is not the place to go.
The motor on swing arm has been a winning looking combination a long time before LR started venturing toward it.
You have both possibly 80% more sprung motor, probably a lighter motor, and only one chain not running through a pivot or freewheel.
whether or not I could be bothered with another power via chain at all is a different story, but this swingarm design makes it more possible....
I am very interested in this frame.... My DT SWISS through axle 150mm has been awesome with regular mtb dh tyres excellent. a wider dropout could cause less options....
yes having goals worked out is important.
cheers
I'm building some new Q76 with Adaptto and I'm wondering where is the best position for the Adaptto-BMS. Could you tell me where you have it?
And I hvae a Rear Shock DNM Burner RCP2 240x76 and I'm not sure which would be the best position for a proper downhill bike. I have some information from my old 140 and wanted to ask if the geometry is nearly the same. Qulbix don't provide any geometry information anymore. Thanks
And I hvae a Rear Shock DNM Burner RCP2 240x76 and I'm not sure which would be the best position for a proper downhill bike. I have some information from my old 140 and wanted to ask if the geometry is nearly the same. Qulbix don't provide any geometry information anymore. Thanks
Quokka
1 kW
The inside of mine looks like this. Photo taken from umder the seat looking forwad. The adaptto is in a plastic/ aluminium case for added protection and is held in with velcro.
Quokka
1 kW
burner77 said:
I think offroader is running a 240mm fox shock, mine is 220mm fox. I would check out his posts. He will probably chip in with some info if he can
I use a 10.5x3.5 shock, which would be a 267x89. This does work but the travel is so high you may have issues with chain tension for the full length of travel. I like the idea of having a lot of rear travel so I don't mind this, however I never tried anything else.
But honestly you're better off using a 240x76 shock, which will have a little less travel and you won't have any chain tension issues.
But honestly you're better off using a 240x76 shock, which will have a little less travel and you won't have any chain tension issues.
mudflap5
100 W
Anybody using fenders on the Q76R? I get the classic line of mud and water marks on my back when riding when it is wet.
Have not found anything specific for this frame.
Have not found anything specific for this frame.
Quokka
1 kW
Mudhugger. For the rear
In order to prevent the mud you need to wrap really far behind the tire. What I have seen others do that seems to work best is to buy one of those fender kits for cruiser bikes and mount it by slightly modifying the brackets.
One of the reasons I just stopped riding in the winter is because of that and I never got around to mounting proper fenders.
One of the reasons I just stopped riding in the winter is because of that and I never got around to mounting proper fenders.
Offroader is right...if you want to stay clean, they have to be more then 20cm of plastics.
but i testet over the time the perfect length now and it ends here:
looks better and you can
- Lift your Bike on the Backwheel to circle around...
- wheelie without problems...
- no water or mud flying around...
its now my 365 days "setup".
but i testet over the time the perfect length now and it ends here:
looks better and you can
- Lift your Bike on the Backwheel to circle around...
- wheelie without problems...
- no water or mud flying around...
its now my 365 days "setup".
Yes, the problem with those mud huggers is that they don't go back far enough so the very back of the tire will fling that line of mud on your back. In the winter you really have no choice to have a wrap around to avoid this.
Winter simply sucks if you ride on dirt, the ground never is able to dry out.
Even a huge dirt bike mud guard wasn't enough because the very end of the tire threw mud around it. It may be possible if you attach a piece of plastic to the end of the mudhugger to extend it. But better off just attaching a real fender.
Winter simply sucks if you ride on dirt, the ground never is able to dry out.
Even a huge dirt bike mud guard wasn't enough because the very end of the tire threw mud around it. It may be possible if you attach a piece of plastic to the end of the mudhugger to extend it. But better off just attaching a real fender.
