Qulbix 165/140 Raptor /NYX Carbon - Sabvoton/Adaptto - 20s/22s Build #5

nope.
2000km so far. they tripped both once on a cold motor and controller. talked with oleg and also with andrey as he was in germany. no one could explained and i was a bit worry about.
but no problems last 1000km. not tripped breakers or anything else except of really rare the controller forgets my throttle mapping.

riding all day with up to 17kw on a fresh battery.
 
Mine did the same thing... although my cold is 4-5deg c.. your cold is probably rediculous for an Aussie. Both circut breakers popped under load up a hill in an 80 zone
 
These are my settings. I think i can get more out of it now- i have swapped the breakers out for midnight solar 150v 100amp dc units (2 of them). Below are my settings. Any suggestions welcome :D
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2138.JPG
    IMG_2138.JPG
    43.2 KB · Views: 2,789
  • IMG_2141.JPG
    IMG_2141.JPG
    42.1 KB · Views: 2,789
  • IMG_2139.JPG
    IMG_2139.JPG
    42.6 KB · Views: 2,789
Ok, these DC Breakers are nice. Should do the job best as they can ;)



- what firmware did you use?
- suggested settings about max dc if you are happy with 120dc amps ok. on boost i want ALL i can get :D so on latest firmware (200A)
- confirm please that you have a 11KV(30x4T) Motor.
(if it is a 30x4, your PWR Timinig is really really high for that motor. If i go above 1,3 my motor heats up 2-3 times faster)
- IND Timing looks also high. Did you manual tuned it? most Auto detects end on 450-500. Sweet spot for 2 Motors i had was 590
- SKPH (Max speed) in Boost mode should be set to something about 20% higher then Road-max-speed.

If you ride with OVS3 ~ 110kph on street. Set it to 130kph.
Higher Max Speed allow your wheel to spin "too fast" and !can! blow your controller(probably on closing throttle).
Dont ask me how and why but i trust Andrey as he was building this controller and tells me twenty times: no load max speed is the worst state for a controller (using/since they have flux weaken)
without flux weaken it is no problem going max speed with no load.
 
The adaptto says its 9.6kv cant find my reciept from qs to check, but am not 100%ceratin. I have manual tuned the engine, most adjusted settings were higher than the autodetect defaults. I will drop the max speeds back. These are my breakers as well below. I have the latest firmware. Plan is to run full power on the nyx (21s 18p) but keep the Qulbix kind of sensible so i dont break stuff. 30km home is a long way to push your bike with the lycra brigade scorning you.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2144.JPG
    IMG_2144.JPG
    44.7 KB · Views: 2,800
Not sure how much it matters but your phase current is way to high in my opinion. Totally sucks the juice out of the battery and heats the motor up. With a "low" 120 battery amps you should probably be no more that 250 phase amps.

It seams when my phase current is up with my QS 3.5 and MaxE I just get extra heat and more amp draw from the battery with no increase in performance. I'm sure that is realitive to each ones set up?

I'm just running a single 63 amp and have hit 196 amps on the screen....never tripped the breaker. Wonder if I should add another just in case to keep from killing the controller?

Tom
 
Phase current only affect in the first meters of hammering your throttle.

so if you rolling around 10-20kph and hammering full throttle it affects "not" your setted phase current.

easy to try it by your self....for best results do it with a friend who setup your phase current to value you dont know, ride it and tell him if it was more or less.
+ testing from a dead stop you will feel the difference.

at least, the latest firmware is castraded to low speed -> max power. src: doc bass and andrey
 
quoka:

i will check at home but i think the value of your displayed KV is not the right from your motor. but i will check.

WIRE R PHC....

set this to on, and let me know how your smoothness of the throttle went :D
with this off the bike starts "kicking" in with 100w. on a heavy bike not that much but on lighter bikes it sucks.
try to ride 2kph....not possible.

with this setting on your ride starts smooths like oiled big and nice wet......ahhh forget it *lol
 
ill checked it...
has nothing to do with the real KV as you can see in my pic (its a 30x4T...11,3KV)

2016-11-10%2017.44.00.jpg


2016-11-10%2017.44.20.jpg
 
Time for changes :mrgreen:

- QS205 30x4T ....fill up 10ml FF
- install GORE Valve to prevent sucking moisture inside the motor.
- no silicon this time for sideplate. ABIL N paper 0,75 for the freewheel side.
Hope so no wobbling sideplates anymore and no cleaning surfaces after opening.
- switch to "winter tires" Shinko 244 3" :D



Nothing new....a QS205 inside....

2016-11-17%2019.28.45.jpg


New to me, they glued the sideplates...smashed a one inch wooden board till it was open :oops:

2016-11-17%2019.29.19.jpg


2016-11-17%2019.29.33.jpg



Gore Valve, glued the "nut" to be sure nothing will fly around after some time + i can open the valve without open the motor.

2016-11-17%2019.42.05.jpg


2016-11-17%2019.42.18.jpg



Abil N paper, sticky Tape and 2 new cutter knife blades till it was done.
only 1mm "flesh" around the 9 holes of the sideplate. you have to be very gently/precise doing that.



2016-11-17%2020.41.03.jpg


2016-11-17%2020.49.32.jpg


2016-11-17%2021.21.39.jpg


2016-11-17%2021.23.02.jpg


2016-11-17%2021.23.29.jpg


2016-11-17%2021.41.55.jpg



this is the biggest tire i ever had installed.
on this Qulbix frame it is the maximum. 5mm left on both sides only. and this is 17" only (!)
pretty tire anyway. to bad he has to hide under some sheet :D


2016-11-18%2000.59.04.jpg
 
Merlin, where did you get the gore valves from? I cant find any that do not have plastic backing nuts. Do you have a link?
:mrgreen: EDIT..found them in germany
 
Merlin, quick question. If I put FF in my MXUS motor. Would it be possible for me to clean it all out if I decide to switch over to fan cooling?

Or will I never be able to get it out of the windings and it will attract dirt?

Thanks.
 
good question....in justins thread he said it is no problem to clean a hub. but i did not clean one yet.
the FF will stick to the magnets not to the windings. if something is in there i bet you can "clean" it just with air pressure.
 
Merlin, if possible and if you have time, if you could do me a favor. I knwo you use FF fluid so would be interested to know how hot the exterior of your motor is getting.

On your Mxus and QS 205 motors, if you don't have a hub sink on them, can you tell me the the peak temperatures you are getting on the magnet ring and side covers? Peak average temperatures while riding, and also peak temperatures while having the motor completely stopped, you should reach peak temp within 20 minutes after stopping and while riding maybe after 15 KM of riding.

This assumes you have one of those laser temperature guns.

Thanks.
 
So, now you have used the QS205 in both 17 and 19" rims, which do you think is better? Not sure what to order now... New QS 205 11kv is on its way
 
Quokka said:
So, now you have used the QS205 in both 17 and 19" rims, which do you think is better? Not sure what to order now... New QS 205 11kv is on its way
Personally i would go for 17, or even 16 if you can, thats if you are going off road and will be doing lots start stop riding. If street riding and higher speed is your goal get a 19. I use 17 and wish i had 16.
 
Well said :p

I will never go back to 19.
17 is a for me the sweet spot.

Top speed on 19 was 125kph
Top speed on 17 now is 118kph

19 was 2.75 tire
17 is 3.00 tire

The difference of the tire is huge.....

So if you ask me what rim size..... I would go 16 now with a 3 inch tire because who cares if you are able to ride with 80wh/km for that top speed.

The difference is not so much from 19-2.75 to 17-3.00

Beside that better grip of the 17" with really low pressure on your tire (1,0bar... 17" to minimum 1.5bar... 19")

You don't like small rims?

Go definitely for 17"
Sm pro has 17x1.6 hi quality rims with nice fitting spoke angles.
 
Back
Top