Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Merlin, I understand that you had to build that mud-guard custom. Hopefully Qulbix sorts out something that is factory soon (though I suspect it won't have more coverage than the big honkin' mud guard in offroaders post that still covers his back in mud.
 
so far couldn't find the front that designed to mount on the USD-8. the fork is inverted and seems no space to mount
what is the best one out there in terms of light and strong ?
 
ohzee said:
Damn those look sharp. Just placed an order. Now if I could just source a new maxe my Qulbix would be rocking.
Sorry, we don't have Max-E in stock either (they are out of production for the time being), but we are preparing new options, that should be ready by mid December.
 
ohzee said:
Damn those look sharp. Just placed an order. Now if I could just source a new maxe my Qulbix would be rocking.

Did you buy the rear fender? When you get yours can you let us know if it stops the mud from flinging on your back.

Hard to say if this one will work because it reaches high up. If it was lower the tire will fling the mud around it, but since it is high up it may stop the mud. I am only talking about the mud that gets flung very the very tip of the tire in the rear.
 
Offroader said:
Did you buy the rear fender? When you get yours can you let us know if it stops the mud from flinging on your back.

Hard to say if this one will work because it reaches high up. If it was lower the tire will fling the mud around it, but since it is high up it may stop the mud. I am only talking about the mud that gets flung very the very tip of the tire in the rear.
To explain:

The front fender/mudguard is mounted high for two reasons:
(1) the guard must be fitted to the fork itself due to the fork type (the DNM USD-8 forks are upside down);
(2) to keep enough clearance between the tire and the shield to avoid mud build-up on off-road.

These are MX style guards, meant to keep the majority of the mud and water spatter off you. They are twice the size of DH fenders you'll find on the market. Building larger ones is virtually impossible due to frame and tire dims constrains.

But, true, if you're going to ride hard through the mud, you will definitely not come out clean.
 
Can mud really go that high up?
I am more concern of rain water that splashing high up enough to keep hitting the face at the front, especially riding on grass after rain. or over a puddle.

From looking at this view, can the front extend more to cover more of the wheel ? I mean of course with the curve following the wheel.
The rear should be more easy to add another piece straight out if really finding not cover enough.
 
The front fork doesn't take that much to stop water from splashing up. The problem with the USD-8 type of fork is the mud guard has to be placed higher up as you can't mount it right above the tire as you can on a regular bike fork.

The Qulbix front mudguard should stop most water hitting the face, which is annoying because if wearing riding glasses you have to stop and clean them.

The rear one may not stop 100% in really wet mud, but will stop most 95% and protect the shock and bike from constant mud. You may get a some drops of mud on your upper back. Nothing like you would get with no mudguards.

The prices are also very good for a custom mudguards, some company making them for stealth were charging close to $300 dollars for a set of custom mudguards.
 
Both mudguards are made of 2 parts (one, fixed aluminium part and the second, flexible PP part). When you recieve the parts you asseble them yourself (bolts and nuts provided in the package). So, if you'd like we can add an option where you get an uncut piece of PP and make your own, custom blade.

What we offer in our shop is, in our opinion, the best compromise in functionality & looks. If you think otherwise, you're welcome to try :)

Ziva, Qulbix
 
Offroader said:
ohzee said:
Damn those look sharp. Just placed an order. Now if I could just source a new maxe my Qulbix would be rocking.

Did you buy the rear fender? When you get yours can you let us know if it stops the mud from flinging on your back.

Hard to say if this one will work because it reaches high up. If it was lower the tire will fling the mud around it, but since it is high up it may stop the mud. I am only talking about the mud that gets flung very the very tip of the tire in the rear.

Yea I did Offroader. Will provide feedback once I get a chance to use it.
 
Is it possible to share the pdf file with the battery dimensions?
Would like to print this and have a look how much cells I will use in my future build.
 
I finally got a chance to install and test the rear mudguard made by qulbix, I ride the q76r frame and a qs205v3 in a 19inch*3inch rear wheel.
The rear mudguard where easy to install, but you have to remove the rear shock.
I live in Denmark where it is raining a lot and I have been waiting for a proper rear fender for a long time. As you can see in the picture I made my own front fender some month ago, it is working but not nearly as good as my rear fender. The rear fender takes 100% of water and mud that usually get all over my back and ass. The mudguard takes most of the mud that gets under the seat and on the rear shock. There is still some mud getting on the on the frame just below where the motor cable enters the frame.
The mudguard is expensive, but in my opinion, it is worth every penny. The build quality is very good and there is room for adjustment to align the mudguard perfectly.
Best regard
 

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askiller said:
I finally got a chance to install and test the rear mudguard made by qulbix, I ride the q76r frame and a qs205v3 in a 19inch*3inch rear wheel.
The rear mudguard where easy to install, but you have to remove the rear shock.
I live in Denmark where it is raining a lot and I have been waiting for a proper rear fender for a long time. As you can see in the picture I made my own front fender some month ago, it is working but not nearly as good as my rear fender. The rear fender takes 100% of water and mud that usually get all over my back and ass. The mudguard takes most of the mud that gets under the seat and on the rear shock. There is still some mud getting on the on the frame just below where the motor cable enters the frame.
The mudguard is expensive, but in my opinion, it is worth every penny. The build quality is very good and there is room for adjustment to align the mudguard perfectly.
Best regard

havent seen many people from Denmark on here. Are you in Copenhagen by any chance? I will be purchasing a new vector or qulbix very soon and was just wondering how the politi feel about these bikes?
 
Dumsterdave
I live in kongens lyngby, but I ride from lyngby to amager and nordvest several times a week, I have been doing this for about 1 year.
8 month ago I got the adaptto controller with password protected software, so the 2 times the police have stop me It were street legal. However, I never ride above 35kmh in the city and I do not ride like a maniac.
I have been building on both vector and qulbix frames ( I build my ebikes from scratch, and make my own batteries with 18650 cells) so if you would like some information or try my bike send me a pm :)
 
askiller said:
I finally got a chance to install and test the rear mudguard made by qulbix, I ride the q76r frame and a qs205v3 in a 19inch*3inch rear wheel.
The rear mudguard where easy to install, but you have to remove the rear shock.
I live in Denmark where it is raining a lot and I have been waiting for a proper rear fender for a long time. As you can see in the picture I made my own front fender some month ago, it is working but not nearly as good as my rear fender. The rear fender takes 100% of water and mud that usually get all over my back and ass. The mudguard takes most of the mud that gets under the seat and on the rear shock. There is still some mud getting on the on the frame just below where the motor cable enters the frame.
The mudguard is expensive, but in my opinion, it is worth every penny. The build quality is very good and there is room for adjustment to align the mudguard perfectly.
Best regard


Thanks for the update, I plan on picking that mud guard up eventually. Like right now I wouldn't mind bringing my bike out but know that in the winter the ground stays wet for like a week after it rains. That means plenty of mud if I drive over anything but dry concrete.

The mudguard also looks really good also.
 
About the stiction problem with a few Marzocchi forks @ Rix, Offroader and Allex

The responding qualities of my 2015 380CR did not become better and so i contacted the marzocchi workshop (windwave in UK).
so much is certain: the support was outstading, if not the best i ever got!
They recommended that i should sent my fork to them for inspection, and so i did.
Before, i alraedy had bought one set of SKF low friction seals (after Offroader had brought them up) which i added to package and asked for installation of them when they do the service.

About 3 weeks later i got my fork back with NEW lower legs (mine seemd to had a production failure) + installed SKF seals, but the best thing was that i did not had to pay any cent, because everything was sorted under warranty from marzocchi.
They even did not ask for the costs of the return shipping.

The fork now works EXCELLENT from the first tests, and i can't wait to go out for a ride :D
I don't know if the fork mainly feels so much better because of the new lower legs, or the SKF seals, but it must be a combination of both of them.

i hope it is not too much OT
and thanks to Offroader for the idea with the SKF seals
 
Fantastic! How old was your fork? I bought mine a bout a year ago. You think there is a chance that They can do this kind of swap free of cost?
 
Allex said:
Fantastic! How old was your fork? I bought mine a bout a year ago. You think there is a chance that They can do this kind of swap free of cost?

Mine are new, but they are a 2014 model year fork. Going to look into this.
 
Anyone have any tips on how to store the battery on my Q76R. It will go into a shipping container for probably 3-6 months while its en route to my new country. Will be peeved if i have to build a new one :|
 
Hi Quokka,

Here are some general instructions for (Li-Ion) battery powered e-bike storage:
- empty your battery pack to a 3,6-3,7V per cell or as recommended for storage by the battery cell/pack manufacturer;
- disconnect the battery from the controller physically;
- insulate the battery connectors individually, so they can in no instance come together and short out;
- protect your battery pack/e-bike against coming into contact with water/too much humidity and secure it against movement;
- let the shipper know your shipping an e-vehicle;
- clearly label your parcel for what it is;

And as a last precaution, insure your e-bike.

Ziva, Qulbix
 
Hi guys, I have recently ordered a 2017 76 frame.

Everything will be designed around it and using HK lipo bricks.

My first question (sorry if this answer exists somewhere I can't find it)

1. How many watt hours and what configure or choices are people running out there? I am hoping for 90v 15ah drawing around 8kw

To me there's no point buying this or that controller or motor if I don't know if I can feed it well.

My first choice is qs205, and adaptto mid or max when I have the cash, but above questions on battery is more important first.

and

2. is there a step file of the A2 pdf of bat dimensions? I don't have access to printing that size out.... Even if someone has laid a grid over the pdf would be enough in the right 10mm dimensions would be a huge help to sourcing and deciding on bricks and layouts.

thanks in advance.
 
John Bozi said:
1. How many watt hours and what configure or choices are people running out there? I am hoping for 90v 15ah drawing around 8kw

To me there's no point buying this or that controller or motor if I don't know if I can feed it well.

Hello John,

The choice of the battery pack is personal. It depends what you would like to do with your ebike. If you are planning to buy an adaptto controller is good not to exceed the suggested voltage by adaptto that is 85V, so no more than a 22s battery pack. I think it's better to buy a battery pack made by 18650 cells (it will be lighter and will last longer), many guys here can build a very well made pack for you or you can build it by your self if you read the battery threats.

1.5kwh of energy is a small battery for me with 8.000W of peak power you will be able to cover maximum 35km of distance. If you want to go further you need 2-2.5kWh pack.
As I said from the beginning it's personal, some ebikers prefer a lighter ebike and to ride it only for 30-40 minutes.

there is a guy here with the name offroader, he has managed to fit 3KWh battery pack into this frame!
 
icherouveim said:
John Bozi said:
1. How many watt hours and what configure or choices are people running out there? I am hoping for 90v 15ah drawing around 8kw

To me there's no point buying this or that controller or motor if I don't know if I can feed it well.

Hello John,

The choice of the battery pack is personal. It depends what you would like to do with your ebike. If you are planning to buy an adaptto controller is good not to exceed the suggested voltage by adaptto that is 85V, so no more than a 22s battery pack. I think it's better to buy a battery pack made by 18650 cells (it will be lighter and will last longer), many guys here can build a very well made pack for you or you can build it by your self if you read the battery threats.

1.5kwh of energy is a small battery for me with 8.000W of peak power you will be able to cover maximum 35km of distance. If you want to go further you need 2-2.5kWh pack.
As I said from the beginning it's personal, some ebikers prefer a lighter ebike and to ride it only for 30-40 minutes.

there is a guy here with the name offroader, he has managed to fit 3KWh battery pack into this frame!

Had no idea those cylindrical cased cells were lighter than the hk lipo cells. Do you have any thing you can refer to support this?

I have owned headway in the past (heavy as hell for the watt hours) and some chinese made pack which was for me a write off once a cell went.

90v 15ah is a rough goal a few v or ah up or down wouldnt bother me. Distances are all in your mind, unless you are pushing your bike up a mountain you can barely walk up.

cheers
 
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