Nyx frame, 273mm*40m V3 hub, and 650A

Luke i m using the ZERO rear shock (Fastace) and it work very well ! This is coming from a DS. Model is BDA53AR.. the front fork i use is the White Brother from the ZERO mx 2009. Both are very tough. Btw the white brother fork is extremely strong!! It was also capable taking 250A phase on the front12kv mxus motor i installed on when the ebike was 2wd for couple runs.

Doc
 
650A.. thats it :lol:

Very nice Luke, I gotta ask, what controller are you running?

I can tell you, on my experience.. with my 18ishkv six phase Hubmonster motor advertised at 97% efficiency rating.. .. with dual Adaptto Max e at full power.. 400 battery --- 500-600ish phase amps.. i can get a couple pulls at full power before she hits 100 degrees.. i'm running a moped tire.. that has a diameter of around 21". The motor is still factory sealed.

I'd like to try some ferro Fluid, but i have not gotten there yet, the next piece my bike needs is a new strong front fork & tire/rim.

Good luck with your build

Doctorbass said:
Luke i m using the ZERO rear shock (Fastace) and it work very well ! This is coming from a DS. Model is BDA53AR.. the front fork i use is the White Brother from the ZERO mx 2009. Both are very tough. Btw the white brother fork is extremely strong!! It was also capable taking 250A phase on the front12kv mxus motor i installed on when the ebike was 2wd for couple runs.

Doc
Click to expand...

This Explain why i could not find this fork when i was looking.. it is from a zero!!!

thanks Doc

-steveo
 
Doctorbass said:
Luke i m using the ZERO rear shock (Fastace) and it work very well ! This is coming from a DS. Model is BDA53AR.. the front fork i use is the White Brother from the ZERO mx 2009. Both are very tough. Btw the white brother fork is extremely strong!! It was also capable taking 250A phase on the front12kv mxus motor i installed on when the ebike was 2wd for couple runs.

Doc
Click to expand...


If you think that old white brothers fork works well (I ran it on multiple death bikes), you gotta try a Fox40. It's unbelievably rigid and smooth with super low stiction.

This is the 2016 world cup downhill finals. The winner of the event is running the same fork I'm running, and it's been setup by Fox's own factory RnD crew for my application. It should be capable of plenty more than my balls permit on a bike. http://www.redbull.com/en/bike/stories/1331787786433/lourdes-dh-final-2016-winning-runs

Something neat about air-suspension is the ability to adjust effective spring rates in 30 seconds or so for free to tune in the vehicle to the type of riding you may be doing.
 
Ive got to agree that air suspension is smoother amd more progressive that springs, and fox 40's are the drooling roll royce of forks. I got to get some, but cant get past the price tag. I am luckily enough to live down the road from the only U.K Fox registered distributors who offer a free bespoke consultation setup to your bike and weight and ride type when you buy the fox 40's from them. But i dont know whats worse, spending the dough or be blanked and made to feel guilty and selfish by my 'trouble and strife' for several months. :roll:
 
Ohbse said:
Any updates luke? I know you've been flat out
Click to expand...

It's got its belt drive parts finally done, got a custom Ti spring set in the Ebike spring rate and damper cartridge. So it can be pedaled around now.

Waiting on some very special pouch cells to arrive for it, and potentially a different controller option with more than 650A phase current as well if it can be made about 10mm thinner to fit inside the frame. I'm not a big fan of having the controller external if I can avoid it, because I like to ride rocks and tree roots and I love being able to crash or bail off as needed and not have wires get ripped out.
 
yeah, better you allow enough time for building it solid (thinking of builders who install the components with duct tape) :mrgreen:
 
brumbrum said:
Ive got to agree that air suspension is smoother amd more progressive that springs
Click to expand...

With any sealed hydraulic fork, there is some air adjustability that comes from adding or subtracting the oil volume. My 1977 Kawasaki KE125 had neat fork cap nuts that have a screw in the middle of them. This made it easy to change the oil level without releasing the spring tension.
 
Hey Luke, could you post some photos of the brake side of the motor if its all installed? Interested to see if you were able to squeeze the calliper in there and to see what/ if any machining was required?
 
Quokka said:
Hey Luke, could you post some photos of the brake side of the motor if its all installed? Interested to see if you were able to squeeze the calliper in there and to see what/ if any machining was required?
Click to expand...

It's not at my house right now, but hopefully Monday I can get a picture.
 
Looks like an awesome bike, I am sure it will be a blast (hopefully no combustion).
I am building a wheel with a QS 273, and there isn't a ton of info on here about them.
What gauge spokes are those? And are you are going to upgrade the phase wires on it? They ones that they put on there seem hardly adequate.

You are a legend!
 
ninepointeight said:
Looks like an awesome bike, I am sure it will be a blast (hopefully no combustion).
I am building a wheel with a QS 273, and there isn't a ton of info on here about them.
What gauge spokes are those? And are you are going to upgrade the phase wires on it? They ones that they put on there seem hardly adequate.

You are a legend!
Click to expand...

I had some special requests when I ordered my motor, including that the phase leads be as large as they could possibly fit through, because I've upgraded the phase leads of every other hubmotor vehicle I've ever had and it's quite a few hours of work an I would happily just pay extra to have them do it on initial assembly.

I also got a very high 16.8kV winding, so this setup really only works well with big phase current, but should be very efficient with a powerband that has silly top-end speed.

With respect to lacing the wheel, it would be so much stronger if QX motor would spread the spoke flanges out to the far outsides of the magnet/rotor ring assembly. They are only about an inch apart, and this means reduced spoke angularity possible in lacing to get the wheel robust to side loading.

I left the spokes and sizing in the hands of a friend who did world-cup downhill bike rims and motocross racing wheel lacing as well for many years. His name is Jamie, hugely talented on a bicycle and motorcycle, and he is one of my favorite folks on the planet to ride with, and he is the guy who assembled the longest lasting of the deathbike wheels. Next time I visit the bike I will take a measurement and photo of the spokes and layout.

Thank you for the kind words. Enjoy life!
 
That's going to be really nice when you get it done. Like a pretty version of Deathbike.

What's your predicted top speed?
 
fechter said:
That's going to be really nice when you get it done. Like a pretty version of Deathbike.

What's your predicted top speed?
Click to expand...

I'm going to push a lot of timing advance and should easily have >100mph.
 
Awesome looking bike!

I have a few questions.

1. Where do you get a motor like this?

2. How much power can this motor take continuously with out over heating in California heat of about 80F / 26C ?

3. What is the recommended voltage to run this motor at?

4. What is the recommended controller to run this motor with?
 
Looks like a QS motor,

http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_list/E-Bike%20Hub%20Motor/90.html

They have spec sheets on each individual motor page. Also comes in a cast scocter rim, pretty cool

http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_list/E-Scooter%20Motor/89_3.html
 
QS motor made the hub.

For the rest of your questions, let me get her on the dyno and I will let you know. :)


VoKuS said:
Awesome looking bike!

I have a few questions.

1. Where do you get a motor like this?

2. How much power can this motor take continuously with out over heating in California heat of about 80F / 26C ?

3. What is the recommended voltage to run this motor at?

4. What is the recommended controller to run this motor with?
Click to expand...
 
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No rear brake mounted yet, Jamie is still working on that. No battery or motor controller installed yet either, but that's the last things needed to rip!
 
Great photos, why did you choose the belt drive? Less maintenance and cleaner?
Talk about building suspense before the controller and cell reveal :) I'm really looking forward to hearing the details.
Cheers
 
After +20years of riding chain bicycles/ebikes/dirtbikes/motorcycles daily, I finally tried a direct belt-drive system and was instantly in love with no back-lash and silence and have never been impressed or pleased with a chain-drive vehicle since (I'm a notorious destroyer of roadbike pedal chains on my pedal only cyclocross bike running all dura-ace and ultegra parts). That freewheel is the only pricey part in that setup, white industries charges 4-5x what I think is fair to pay for that freewheel, but I understand they likely only sell a few a year and it's gotta be a PITA to fixture up to machine for something so low volume. It's way cheaper for bikes with cassettes to convert to belt.

The bottom bracket Schlumpf drive is the option you can order from Nyx, and it lets you pedal at a ratio where it's like your front sprocket is 80-100t around or something close, while keeping the overall sprocket diameter smaller for clearance on rocks and obstacles and things. It adds loss to the human pedal input, but its better to have lossy human pedal input than not be capable of pedaling at all at 35-40mph, as you're mostly pedaling for exercise and the joy and fun of pushing pedals anyways.
 
Rube said:
Great photos, why did you choose the belt drive? Less maintenance and cleaner?
Talk about building suspense before the controller and cell reveal :) I'm really looking forward to hearing the details.
Cheers
Click to expand...

You and me both are in suspense!

If I can hold *~64v under load, the motor base speed with no timing advance/field weakening yields 80mph vehicle speed. I know it's no trouble to get another 30->35% RPM through field weakening (at the cost of efficiency/motor heating), so it would seem likely the bike should be capable of over 100mph even towards the low end of the pack's SOC.

100mph is like the new 60mph for hotrod ebike builds today anyways.

People a decade in the future with 10x better mosfets/ganfets/sicfets and 10x better solid state batteries and possible room temp superconductor windings and grain-oriented magnetic materials for motor cores will be laughing about the size and weight and hassles of making a 100mph hubmotor ebike in 2017.
 
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