Ebike scooter project QS 4kw V3 72v, Kelly KEB72601

Hmm the kit seems pretty expensive $2147.72CAD plus taxes shipping and import fees. Wanted to keep it around $1500CAD max if I can. I don't need super duper capacity for this one, since most of my trips will be under 20km I think.

So its about $100CAD for either balance charger from China - do you know anywhere in Canada or USA I could get it?

Tarot RC Helicopter Spare Part UNA9 PLUS UN-A9 9S Charger TL2266-02 - $100CAD
https://goo.gl/cLK0ih

AOK BC168 1-6S 8A Balance Charger with Parallel Charging Board

https://goo.gl/jE2zaG

So if I was to buy the high-end cells individually I would need about 10 of them (10 sets of 2 cells), but then I have 64ah instead of 40ah
2015 64Ah Nissan Leaf - $139 x 10 = $1390USD --> $1842.79CAD + charger $1942CAD + shipping import fees -- $2100CAD?
https://goo.gl/OJO0nf

Mid tier 2013 54Ah Nissan Leaf Battery Module 2x3.8v - 7.6V battery - $95 --> $1259.46CAD + charger $1360 + ship import $1550CAD?
https://goo.gl/FCm4Gf

Also another problem noticed the peak current and cont. current numbers are super high. Surely the below numbers are not phase amps?
Continuous current 240A
Peak current 540A

I've been told that my wheel should get 60a cont. and 90a peak, but since this is handled by the controller I'd just have to set the battery current limit differently?
 
smeagol222 said:
(...)

Also another problem noticed the peak current and cont. current numbers are super high. Surely the below numbers are not phase amps?
Continuous current 240A
Peak current 540A

I've been told that my wheel should get 60a cont. and 90a peak, but since this is handled by the controller I'd just have to set the battery current limit differently?
That only specifies how much current can be taken, so yes, just set the current in the controller.
Also see our lovely Wiki: https://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/Terminology_and_Explanations_of_Common_Misconceptions
 
If I was go to for 18650 cells, I had this idea of having two 20ah packs and "hotswapping" them. This way I could get full charge cycles from them, and since I have to remove from the bike anyways and carry to apartment to charge, it would be even lighter weight and more manageable.

Is there a post or spreadsheet that has current 18650 cells with links on where to buy them? I'm trying to get my head around the continuous and peak Amps rating each cell has for my project.

I realize the BMS will be the limiting factor (prob going to get this one https://goo.gl/9UpLdo) but I still need to decide on what cell to use

Looking at this page
https://www.electricbike.com/18650-cells-for-e-bike/

And prices from "Queen Battery Supplier" - got this from another endless sphere post
www.aliexpress.com/store/1332380

3500-mAh, NCR18650GA, Panasonic-Sanyo $4.40 usd / cell https://goo.gl/VjWXdU
2900-mAh, NCR18650PF, Panasonic $3.40 usd / cell https://goo.gl/guB5ao
3400-mAh, NCR18650B, Panasonic $3.60 usd / cell https://goo.gl/kDeZcE
20A__2500-mAh___25R Samsung $3.48 usd / cell https://goo.gl/EHYXJ2
15A__3000-mAh___30Q Samsung $4.52 usd / cell https://goo.gl/Ekt2HJ

So math time doing one 20ah pack, will need 20s just to get 72v so its just a question of Ah and current output. Do I just need to get cells in parallel that produce as much cont. As what I need as peak amps? Then my BMS limits it?

3500-mAh, NCR18650GA, Panasonic-Sanyo 20s6p=21ah 10a per cell x 6 = 60a continuous 20x6=120 cells=$528 for 21ah
2900-mAh, NCR18650PF, Panasonic 20s7p=20.3ah 10a per cell x 7 = 70a continuous 20x7=140 cells=$476 for 20.3ah
3400-mAh, NCR18650B, Panasonic 20s6p=20.4ah 10a per cell x 6 = 60a continuous 20x6=120 cells=$432 for 20.4ah
20A__2500-mAh___25R Samsung 20s8p=20ah 20a per cell x 8 = 160a continuous 20x8=160 cells=$556.80 for 20ah
15A__3000-mAh___30Q Samsung 20s7p=21ah 15a per cell x 7 = 105a continuous 20x7=140 cells=$632.80 for 21ah

I know there will be come internal resistance, but surely there is a rule of thumb when choosing cells when you have specific power requirements?

Or is my only real option the Samsung 30q since its providing 105a continuous (which is what I need peak), which is unfortunate because its the most expensive.
 
in my impatience on wanting to get the project started I ended up grabbing a 72v 20ah lifepo4 battery on a good deal. Did some visualizations on future batteries. Luckily I seem to have quite a bit of room in my battery box. I'm just not quite set up yet to make my own 18650 battery pack.

Hopefully the BMS in this pre-made lifepo4 is okay (claims to be 65a continuous, 85a peak- needed 90a peak, but hoping this wont make a huge difference)

battery-measure-cropped-smaller.jpg

Thought I might as well see what can fit where. Looks like the kelly controller including heatsink seems to fit mounted to the original bottom plate alongside the beefy dc converter (I tried putting the plastic back on and it fits but is quite snug. There is even more space at the front to perhaps put another metal plate, or perhaps mount the air horns.

Dimensions of battery box (after cutting bar out)
38cm depth
23cm width
36cm length
battery-box-on-bike-cropped.jpg

Kelly controller and high power dc converter sitting on original metal base
View attachment 4
View attachment 2
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Trying to get hold of some 6 guage battery cable and saw these jump start cables on Amazon for cheap. I don't need very long 16ft would be plenty, they are 6 guage I would just cut the clamps off and solder some copper lugs on

Any reason I shouldn't do this? The only reason I can think of is perhaps these particular wires are not meant to handle constant high current (all I need is around 60-65a cont. and 90-100a peak).

http://a.co/efgaTJR
http://a.co/1Dp6zg9

Screenshot_012617_041824_PM.jpg
Screenshot_012617_041902_PM.jpg

I've also seen "speaker wire" on amazon and ebay for a lot cheaper than 'battery primary wire'.
https://goo.gl/G6AsEK
 
Trying to figure out where I can mount both these horns. There seems space on the right side for one of them, unfortunately on the left top dash cover there is a cutout for a drink holder.
IMG_20170129_151110.jpg

I could mount both inside the floor? Not sure if they would sound muffled when the top and bottom plastics are re-attached. Then I guess I'd put the main contractor up the top along with the smart precharger. Would probably block those holes and make it a bit more weatherproof.
IMG_20170129_151201.jpg
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Other option would be I guess to put on up top and one in the floor (lower tone up top, higher tone I would expect to be heard from within the floor easier. Then main contactor, pre-charger and other bits can live next to controller (perhaps less likely to be messed (theft) with if top dash is messed with. I could also put the alarm in top dash..

Also started working on the "rats-nest" wiring harness. I didn't want to steal the molex connectors from the old controller (since I'm going to try and sell it) so I got a pack of 100 bullet connectors with 16 and 18 gauge wire. From previous experience with many 12v components I found there was a lot of 'cut-solder-heatshrink' loops. This way I figure, if things need 12v power I can just daisy chain male and female plugs on the positive line. Makes it easier to re-configure, if I decide to take something out or add something. Also found an easy way to crimp (squish the shit out of) with vice grips, and double bonus adds a little pattern for grip for plugging and unplugging!
IMG_20170129_151553.jpg
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View attachment 2
IMG_20170129_175820.jpg

Also found this cool thing with the ignition. There were 3 extra wires that weren't being used. These were 2 POS and 1 NEG for the 'stop' position- I've got to check if it still activates on the 'stop-steering-lock' position, but could be handy for alarm or flasher relay circuit for specific alarm/flashing etc.
 
I Just saw the main contactor you are proposing and thought I should give you a heads up on what I found.
It looks like yours is a clone of the Albright SW80 range http://www.albrightinternational.com/products/sw80/

I used the SW82 - but its performance will probably be similar to yours. The coils come in several configurations, some for continuous use and some for intermittent (the coil wattage is different). I bought the continuous 12V version as this has the lowest wattage and therefor hopefully the least temperature rise.

After half an hour at 12v the coil became uncomfortably hot. It is not uncommon for industrial contactors to use a coil economizer.
These pull the contacts in with the rated voltage and then lower the voltage to keep them engaged (they will stay engaged with much lower voltages)
Do a search on ES and you will find several articles and ideas.

For mine I used a spare output from an arduino I was using together with a small hobbyking brushed ESC to make an economizer. This started off at 12V and then dropped the voltage down to 6V. With that feeding the coil the temperatures were much better.

I would recomend you stick 12v on your coil and see what the coil temperature does..... you may just be fine, but worth a check!

- Spata
 
spata said:
I Just saw the main contactor you are proposing and thought I should give you a heads up on what I found.
It looks like yours is a clone of the Albright SW80 range http://www.albrightinternational.com/products/sw80/

I used the SW82 - but its performance will probably be similar to yours. The coils come in several configurations, some for continuous use and some for intermittent (the coil wattage is different). I bought the continuous 12V version as this has the lowest wattage and therefor hopefully the least temperature rise.

After half an hour at 12v the coil became uncomfortably hot. It is not uncommon for industrial contactors to use a coil economizer.
These pull the contacts in with the rated voltage and then lower the voltage to keep them engaged (they will stay engaged with much lower voltages)
Do a search on ES and you will find several articles and ideas.

For mine I used a spare output from an arduino I was using together with a small hobbyking brushed ESC to make an economizer. This started off at 12V and then dropped the voltage down to 6V. With that feeding the coil the temperatures were much better.

I would recomend you stick 12v on your coil and see what the coil temperature does..... you may just be fine, but worth a check!

- Spata

Ah crap! I didn't know about that. So to test I would just leave it on 12v for half hour then touch the main contactor bolts to see if they're heating up? I did a quick search on ES and couldn't find a thread dedicated to choosing contactors or good brands (except doctorbass post https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=43586&p=635694&hilit=coil+economizer#p635694 for the EV200 which for me on ebay $120 or $300 from digikey.ca) Edit: I found used one from Israel for $50CAD, wonder if I should just go with that.

Below is the product page from Aliexpress. Total cost was about $28CAD which I thought was average


I suppose I'm going to have to spend quite a lot more (USD + shipping + import fees etc) for a decent contact from kellycontroller or something?
$29USD https://goo.gl/0cXB2d
$29USD https://goo.gl/GvJTCm (this one looks like the aliexpress one)
$49USD 200a https://goo.gl/MoYXr7
$49USD 200a https://goo.gl/zbcCEE (similar product name to no2 and aliexpress one)

If I'm going to get a new one, I don't want to just be getting the same 'type' of one. A lot of these look very similar http://www.evdrives.com/product_p/sol-sw180s.htm

tJR45Pe.jpg
 
I wouldn't stress over it. Here is something I found on another forum
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/evdl-coil-economizer-13711.html
Looks like they were recommending a simple RC network. I looked at that too, but my components were to hand and considerably smaller.

To test; leave the coil connected to 12v and then feel the coil temperature, it is not the main contacts that get hot just the windings. If the body surrounding the coil is still not too hot after half an hour you should be fine.

The contactor you linked to looks like a good price and it will either be fine or will need a bit tinkering to get right.
I believe all these type of contactors have similar characteristics - maybe someone else will chip in with their findings

-Spata
 
Main contactor came from China but doesn't work, or I messed up. Noticed it says 72v 100a, although in the description it says 6v-80v. Applying 12v from my 12v lithium battery or even my DC to DC 72v - 12v 13a converter (using 52v battery made from Samsung 30Q cells) doesn't throw it. Apart from using a multi-meter and continuity I was expecting to hear a bit "clunk" sound?

Oh well, I ended up ordering the Kilovac EV200 for $50cad from Israel that Doc has recommended on here, that one def. specifies 12v-24v. I suppose I just got the wrong voltage contactor?
UDc00HFl.jpg
 
Sounds like it may be a high voltage coil.

Do you get any continuity across it? what is the coil resistance? The spec says 8-12W so from the resistance you should be able to work out what voltage they are expecting. Only other thing I can think of is the protection diode, it looks like there is one soldered across the coil connections. If you power it with the wrong polarity that will appear as a short.

-Spata
 
smeagol222 said:
Hmm I just tested ohms across the 12v circuit and I get nothing at all. Its probably I high power coil unfortunately. I wonder if anyone would buy it on craigslist haha

If there is no continuity the coil is broken. Get a refund.
 
Agreed - the coil is broken, but if it's from China probably not worth the effort for a refund.
Have a check of the soldering and actual wires from the coil, likely as not it will be a dry join where they have not stripped off the enamel insulation well enough.
If not then you can always rewind it!!

- Spata
 
I ordered the Kilovac EV200 from ebay- waiting for that now from Israel
EzajF89l.jpg


Also got a bunch more things.

  • 6 AWG Noco battery wire http://a.co/eUhvg28 (Doc says it should be fine with voltage and amps considering the distance 3 feet or so)
  • Cycle Analyst with shunt (wanted a speed sensor via motor poles & didn't really want to use, reconfigure/figure out the dicky 3 dial combo with microscopic wind shield)
  • 3x Anderson SB120a connectors (1 for controller, 2 for 2 batteries). Only problem with this is that the actual terminals are huge inside. You can see from the photo that the 6 AWG fits inside including the plastic. I guess I'm going to have to put a crapload of solder in there or get some super thick stepdown/up converter? 11mm outside width minus thickness prob like 7mm inside width (1 AWG diameter https://goo.gl/8zGuQ)

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smeagol222 said:
Awesome idea! Will do
Though I have a 150W soldering iron that wouldn't break a sweat, I prefer crimping these big lugs. I'm very happy with a cheap 16 ton crimping tool, used it on the car a lot, too.
 
what am I thinking, I totally forgot I got this small blowtorch specifically to do this


Crimping tool I'd have to get this one I suppose for the SB120 powerpole connector
https://powerwerx.com/hex-crimping-tool-sb-series-powerpole
powerwerx-handheld-hex-crimper-for-large-sb-series-and-powerpole-connectors__7005_580.jpg
 
The Kilovac EV200 main contactor came today, tested with my 12v lithium battery and it works perfectly! Also has auxiliary contractor wires, which don't connect the main contacts so I could use the for the separate 12v circuit perhaps- although I already have key ignition so we'll see.
9aWEOr6l.jpg
 
Its been a while, I got some more things in the mail. Ordered some others. Still waiting on my 20ah Lifepo4, but that should be coming this month.
I always knew 20ah wouldn't be enough, and after some discussion about my previous idea of having 2x 20ah batteries and swapping them out- others said its better to have 1 large battery I came to a compromise and ordered 200 LG MJ1 10a 3500mah cells from nkon to make a 20s10p 35ah 72v battery. So total will be 55ah, hopefully this will get me some kind of good range. Or medium range with another passenger.

Whats more is I'm using BATTERYBLOCS with NO BMS! :shock: :shock:
I think Shawn's idea for a repairable battery with feedback loop (cell loggers) is awesome. BMS's always made me feel a bit uneasy about how they are charging the cell groups, or if its even working properly- especially the ones I probably would have ordered (Aliexpress). :pancake:
http://www.batteryblocs.com
https://www.youtube.com/user/shawname2/videos

So I'm going to have 4 stacks of the 10p packs 5S each. They fit inside a fence post tube from home depot and threaded rod for the battery blocs.
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http://www.batteryblocs.com/groceries/ten-pack/

The mockup below shows my battery box, the 20ah lifepo4 next to the 4 stacks of 10p in 5s each (red). I'm going to connect them together using XT90 series connectors.
Y16vmWzl.jpg

accTIeCl.jpg


Each stack I'll make an end cap with the cell logger and a switch cut into an end cap in the tube. (I previously had an idea to run wires so the cell loggers were near the dashboard of the ebike but not sure it would be necessary).
xH3sypTl.jpg

VQUvF0Jl.jpg


I ordered some JST-XH 5s cables to hook them up to cell loggers (I got 4 of them- one for each stack). These will also plug into the JST-XH 5s parallel balance cable I ordered to use with my iMax B6 for balancing the cells. I got some XT90 parallel adaptors for this also.
SZx1f5yl.jpg

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Also got some extra XT90 connectors for the 4 stacks of 5s.
cednXaml.jpg


I got some 0 gauge battery cable after Mistercrash's recommendation. Got some copper lugs and a hammer crimper. Everyone here says to crimp instead of solder
S033cAWl.jpg

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http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Side note: I started collecting free dead laptop batteries to find good cells to use in my old ebike to make a 13s 48v battery for when I sell it. I was using the iMax B6 to discharge 1 cell at a time 1amp to 3v which took about 4 hours per cell.
vAk1VE7l.jpg


Managed to find quite a few over 2200mah (22cells) and 12cells 1700mah - 2200mah, which means I probably only need another 20 dead laptop batteries with 1 cell bad in each to make a 13s10p 48v 20ah pack. The BMS from Aliexpress was about $30, some hot glue, solder and copper wire. Some foam padding and plastic cutting board to make case for around $5
DMilXqQl.jpg

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I recently discovered Foxnovo F-4S to charge/discharge and check capacity- this thing is awesome does 4 at a time!
Ps4u0vUl.jpg


Also got a bunch of 12v relays for things like ebrake + brake light brighter combo
BnFxQKnl.jpg
 
Cool, good to see that you're making progress.
I also recycle 18650's but don't go by capacity as much as internal resistance to "class" them.
I found this battery tester from Banggood invaluable for that. Can test all kinds of chemistries. Don't forget to add a 40mm 5V fan if you want to test higher amps and a cell holder.
 
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