My New Frame build (finished)

mxer

mxer

1 kW
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
372
Location
United Kindom
Picked this frame up cheap (£45) I have spares left over from another build so going to build a budget stealthy matt black runner.

I'll post up some before and afters, Going to be nothing special but thought the frame would be of interest and worth sharing?.
 
These Bluetooth controllers any good?. I'm looking for a wireless solution as opposed to keywin programming.
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162477581028
 
mxer said:
It's a Roodog frame
Click to expand...

Looks pretty sweet. I've tried to go full stealth but the limitation is how much battery you can cram into that battery space ( with BMS ). With my higher power build (2.2kw geared hub) I needed more battery packs to supply 40A so hiding stuff was just not possible (full triangle full of lipo bricks). With my low power build (BBS02) it only requires 25A, so 2 Lipo bricks and I'm good for my commute/trips. 2 bricks will easily fit in 2 water bottles if you can mount it strong enough or a top pannier bag ( what I eventually settled on ).

Good luck with the build.
 
4x6s 12ah multistar's fit a treat, might even get my infinion in the too with a little grinding, lol..
 
So clean that's nice
 
Original plan was multistar, but??.. I have 4 6s 5ah that fit just fine so using these now instead 50v 10ah.

The controller fits in there too which I prefer, is there any issues with the controller sitting covered up?.



 
Can someone help me with a quick question regarding my batteries please I'm a little rusty as my last build was 2012,.

My 4 6s Lipo

Do I series 2 first then parallel?

Or parallel 2 first then series?

Many thanks in advance
 
Controllers should sit outside because they get hot without airflow. I did run a 12FET controller in a saddle bag for a year, but it's not that advisable. You also need to add heaps of padding to the batteries because they dont like being thrown around next to a hard surface. I cut up a $4 yoga mat from Kmart since the rubber/foam is soft and it's fire resistant. As for battery config, I always did series then parallel as it was easier to wire up. My connectors were male/female so would just hook up easily.
 
I currently have this set up on another build going strong to date daily since 2012. Can't fault Turnigy batteries no bms still within 3 mv, Amazing how long these last if looked after, only pulling 2C 4.17 to 3.6 resting..

Here it is new, doesn't look like this now, lol.





My commute is minimal 12 minutes max on off throttle to work.
I would like something stealthy and clean hence the New black frame choice in the original post (all enclosed, nice weight distribution).

I'm all in on an enclosed unit, it's a budget build but I believe the controller will handle the short bursts.

I am struggling with placement, ie controller bottom or top of the frame internally, power connection out of the frame for easy connection and charging???. Or fashion key entry into the top enclosure for this purpose??..

Or switches or external charging inputs (do they exist?) I'm still in 2012 Anderson's and 4mm HXT..

I have been looking at the Vector,Quilbix with key ignition which I like but do they totally cut the power? Mv overnight can be dangerous hence I like to totally terminate with Anderson's.

I guess im after neat cool new plug in the side charging (do these connectors exist) and key ignition (but do they totally terminate?) Handle 20/30 amps?.
 
Think I have a problem with my motor and I am absolutely gutted..

Powered up today double checked hall and phase all good, pulled back the throttle and I get a graunchy sound then a internall motor spin not turning the wheel just motor spinning inside hub??..

Check again and wheel spins up fine, checked again and getting that graunchy noise again and internal motor spin??....

Put the wheel underload and yes I think the clutch is gone???... all that work to get it laced and sold a Lemon arggg..

Never mind...can someone tell me if this sounds like a clutch??

I don't even know what motor it is so going to struggle to get a new clutch, I thinks it's a old Mac/Bmc? Not sure..
 
Clutch or key. Or maybe gear(s). I don't think it's a major service to do it all?

That's a damn nice aluminum frame, good work so far! electricscooterparts http://electricscooterparts.com/ or a similar store has all kinds of various charge plugs and key switches at fair prices. Your controller should have two 'ignition' wires, that connect pack voltage @ low current to controller for on/ off. I'd connect them to a keyswitch, and add the higher amp charge plug. You could get fancy with the balance wires, but I'd probably just extend them to a protected but easily accessable place for celllog or medic monitoring before/after rides and during charges. Rcbuddy or ebay has extentions. Or probably HK.

If you're not running the controller hard, it may last while enclosed. To help you could add a pc fan that runs with key-on, to blow across it. It would be powered from the controller's 5v circuit nicely and vents could be added with water egress in mind.
 
Greatly appreciated nutspecial. You could be exactly right , the motor spins up great if I spin the wheel first but not from standstill with me holding the back end up?.

If I throttle with the wheel on the ground, just a spinning motor noise is heard? could well be a missing woodruff Key as the motor spins so easy under load?..

I'll strip the motor tomorrow take some pics, I don't know why but I have 3 spare Metal planetary gears spare I found in my workshop so might have an opportunity to fit one?.sure they came with this motor.

Thanks for the comments, really looking forward to getting this up and running as clean as possible so reassurance regarding controller has helped, cheers.

Key switch is a preference and thanks to your comments ive found the two wires (red) while investigating. Hope the motor is well this to me is turning into a interesting build for a cheap throw together.

Fantastic advice have a great weekend, cheers
 
Here's some pics of inside the motor.

My symptoms are, motor Will not turn the wheel under load ie wheel on the floor, I just get an internal motor spinning noise?.

If I lift the wheel of the ground and hand spin the wheel it will spin the wheel fine.

I'm thinking the clutch but as you can see from the pics there is no sign of wear? No swawf, metal fillings, nothing..

Can anyone tell from the photos the clutch has gone?..








I may replace it anyway as it was not my motor from new, does anyone know where I will get a clutch?
 
Indeed? I've tried to force the clutch in drive direction and it's red face tight?.

Strange?...I've messaged EMV3ev to see if they have the parts?..hopefully this is not going to stop the build.

Thanks nutspecial.
 
Is it possible for the issue to be controller or halls problem?..

I haven't programmed the controller yet and the halls where not the best connection for testing?
 
Ok I've tried a different controller and still the same so the only thing I can think of right now is the clutch..

Here's a video of the intermediate slipping motor excuse the wood I was using to test a load/resistance as I have no brakes as yet..

https://youtu.be/c80SUTHh0IA
 
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