He says, they use laser welding at 1:40, but it looks like normal spot welding for me.Joachim wrote:0:57 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIWmjIF6i6w looks like bosch already use a copper spotwelding machine for the powertoolpacks
where did you get .15mm copper? The .2mm is tricky because it needs rather high weld energies (challenges: battery can damage, blowouts, electrode wear)kdog wrote:yeh .1mm is really weak. i easily welded some .2ni to .15cu on the test piece so id like to go with that- mechanically its much stronger, but ill have to be able to consistently weld it to use it. i reckon .2Cu will be a bit thick for me
ive ordered a meter of both .1 & .15 so in about 3weeks ill be able to test it out.
is it here yet?!
Thanks for the link. Just ordered a sheet to test.kdog wrote:I just ordered it on aliexpress
https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/1895592 ... 0.0.FtWy6j
They've got a range of thicknesses
I was just making a joke about whether it had arrived yet having only just ordered it... Is it here yet? Ha! Lost in translation.
this is the resistance that makes tungsten good to weld copper i think. the resistance in the tungsten tip, which will endure very high temps and stay hard, produces the heat that copper will not easily produce, because its too darn conductive. that heat is what melts the copper to make the weld..kdog wrote: Interestingly, it requires gentle pressure on the electrodes to create a bit of heat via poor contact. If I clamp them together it welds poorly.
oh yes, I have a CD welder, and my pulse lenghts are typically in range of maybe couple of miliseconds.vex_zg wrote:i tried tungsten, molybdenum, 30-70 copper tungsten. Tested for welding copper, nickel, copper-nickel.
pure copper electrodes still work best for me. Tungsten/molybdenum cause more sparks and blowouts and stick much more.
I have not yet tried zirconium copper (the electrodes I bought are quite big in diameter so need some machining first)
Anybody willing to experiment can get cheap on aliexpress/ebay.
Beware though - machining tungsten and molybden is quite hard. Those are hard materials. Eats grinding stone like it was cake.
10000 $ Orion Pulse 250iEV is way too expensive.okashira wrote: I think welding copper is a great idea - if you have a nice 10k pulse arc welder. If you have a spot welder, stick to nickel and optimize your design for current flow. You're missing almost nothing.
Probably. But what I have read is that pulse arc welding is a level up in complexity over the CD welder, and to perfect a CD welder it took me like a year and hundreds of night hours after my dayjob (transients and inductance required quite some rethinking and investigating). Unless I get laid off with a severance package to have undisturbed few months I don't see I can do a pulse arc welder it in reasonable amount of time.Matador wrote:10000 $ Orion Pulse 250iEV is way too expensive.okashira wrote: I think welding copper is a great idea - if you have a nice 10k pulse arc welder. If you have a spot welder, stick to nickel and optimize your design for current flow. You're missing almost nothing.
With all your experience Okashira, could we build the same pulse arc welder with less ultrasophistication to bring the costs down ?
Could we build a reliable enough puls arc welder for 1000 $ instead of 10000$ if we get rid of the bells and wistles ?
you know how ridiculously easy it is it Ni plate copper...kdog wrote:I opened up my first pack I did with copper a few days ago to inspect -its almost two yrs old. It's done with copper on nickel in the standard spot welding way, 20s5p. Apart from a small amount of corrosion in the HAZ of the welds it's fine. Hardly tarnished on the rest of the tab. At the time when I was welding it, I noticed the current would leave a heat mark on the tab (0.1mm), this is where the corrosion has started. I've used that bike for about 5000ks now and it hasn't faltered once. With this technique, the HAZ is much less so I'm hoping the corrosion is correspondingly reduced.