HPC Revolution XXX

Leeleeducati,

Could you post the contact to your spot welder manufacturer?

also interested for this future lookind welder

For all those that PM'd me also, the spot welder contact is;

Pierre
p.tanguay@hotmail.com

He's close to the Toronto Ontario area. As mentioned they're made to order and I paid $195 CDN.

Calling on the community for help!

So I'm planning a 18S8P and the configuration will be; 6 cells wide x 12 long x 2 layers thick (144 cells total, see pic, this is one layer). This appears to be the best configuration that fits so I'd like to keep it at that for now.

My questions are;
1) Would you group them in 9 series bundles of 8 cells and series the two packs as pictured? or is there a better configuration again keeping to around the 6x12x2 layers?
2) What will be the best way to charge this pack? BMS or balance board? Two 9S BMS' or one 18S BMS? Any suggestions on a good source for a charger or BMS?

Thanks!

Your configuration looks good.

BMS is much more comfy to use - one 18s will be better(one power stage). I'm using Bestechpower BMS - these are chinese but good quality.

+1

Been wanting to do this for a while:

http://www.electricbike.com/hpc-revolution-mid-drive/

Wow that is an awesome build. What was the final overall weight? Well done.

I've just read the entire thread and want to cry now that i am at the end and no videos of it running yet!

Talk about suspense!

For all those that PM’d me for an update on this build, my apologies for the long delay. Life gets in the way and unfortunately some of these hobbies end up on the back burner. The bike runs fine, I haven’t had any issues with the 160 overheating, or really any mechanical either. But then again I’m only on it infrequently at best and for a short period of time. The 160 is ok, but I’m not entirely sure it’s great. There’s some room for improvement a the entire build and a few things scheduled to change. I’ll get those later. The bike climbs very well which is what I wanted and I’m not sure about top end? Never tried, never really wanted to go too fast anyway. The HPC is plush and a very nice riding frame with the Dorado and CCDB. I still just feel it’s too slack for level or trail riding. I haven’t got around to change the CC Angleset yet but it’s on the to do list. I’m using a KLS7240S with the CA and with all the settings dialed back, it’s very controllable for those that asked. No worries about the bike standing up, not at these settings anyway.

So from where I left off, I'll continue to the end… the spot welder ended up being a POS. I scrapped most of it and had to rebuild it to make it usable. Here it is in the garbage, you can see in the one pic, thicker guage welding cable I had to modify it with. Pics of batteries (18S8P total) in various stages of completion and in the frame, had to make sure they fit.

more pics

The bike weighs in at 66.1lbs without the batts. The batts are another 16 lbs.

Here's the bike completed, when I get a chance I'll update more about the next phase; IGH, Double Freewheel Crank and more reduction before the crank.

So the next phase is a dual freewheel crank. I've machined the adapter to connect the Dicta LH to the Eno RH. I'm not a fan of the Dicta, but it was $12 at Stanton. If I like the performance I'll get another Eno and bore it out and thread it LH to an M36 or something like that. There's also a pic of the sacrificial Truvativ BB I'll use for the cups and bearings since I have to machine a new spindle. I need around 200mm, there's one at SBK but with the square taper which I don't want. With the LH/adapter and RH Eno, I can thread as normal on the ISIS crank. The BB bearings are an odd 3121.5 so it was easier to take from the Truvativ.

This is gonna be one sweet aggressive machine, perfect for tight single tracks, or overall hooligan riding.

Too nice a day, and long weekend at that, had to take it out for a spin, here's a couple more pics. The frame impresses me every time I'm on it. Chris, haven't forgot about you... phase two below and starting soon.

Lacing the wheel together.

Looking good!

Leeleeducati said:

Too nice a day, and long weekend at that, had to take it out for a spin, here's a couple more pics. The frame impresses me every time I'm on it. Chris, haven't forgot about you... phase two below and starting soon.

Click to expand...

I'm planning something similar with a qulbix frame:
i would be interested about some basic infos about your bike like
Volts, AH, MotorKV, controller, Watts, reductions (motor sprocket->chainwheel->rearsprocket)
and the "results" out of that facts like: do you have to pedal along, or would the motor do the job itself, how is the cadence fitting to the motor reduction, whats the endspeed on highest gear, how long (in km) does your battery last in average.

thats a beautiful bike

greets
Notger

Thanks Notger. So the easy answers are; 18S8P so 72V ~28Ah Sanyo cells, 39.2kV, KLS7240S controller. My current gearing is only temporarily and only 1:4 to the rear wheel, I had every intention to change this but had to prove the concept of the Revolution X mid- drive motor in frame first.
You’ll have to make some decisions and commit to them in your build. I had to have pedals for compliance where I live and also I didn’t want two chains to the rear wheel… so you end up with two freewheels somewhere. With that, if you remember nothing else from my posts, remember this; you’ll need at least a minimum 1:5 to the crank. 1:10+ is even better because you can compensate RPM with gearing as long as the torque is there. This is where the engineering challenge begins when room is limited and why my gearing V.2.0 project has to do with a dual freewheel crank. There’s a limit to how small a freewheel you can get for “regular” bikes (12-14 ish). Also the ½” pitch on a standard chain is way too big to get compact reductions. So you’ll have to think 219 or a #25 chain depending on how much power you plan on. The pitch is smaller and thus sprockets are smaller. The other thing to consider is motor shaft diam. I had the 160 made with 20mm and it’ll make it’s way to the lathe soon to get turned down to 15mm. This is where you’ll limit min. bore on sprocket selection if the motor shaft is too big. I’m trying a 1:5 to the crank (space limited) then 1:1 ish to an IGH on V.2.0. Take your time to calculate this part out. Do you want to pedal? Pedal up to a certain speed? Never pedal? With the previous ebikes I’ve build I didn’t think I’d care to pedal on this one, but I still kinda do so I’ll incorporate that into V.2.0. Possibly V.3.0 might even have a grearbox?

This part reminds me of back to the early days of mountain biking where every component was carved out of solid billet... Here's the brake side done. Now the sprocket side left to do and I will have converted the HPC to 135mm to accept the IGH.

LH/RH complete, now if the giant rain cloud would move away from the GTA I'd feel motivated to get the IGH wheels on the bike.

I was waiting for this last part for the IGH. It came with a twist grip shifter but I wanted matching grips with the Domino so I had to order the bar mount thumb shifter version. It has a clean look when mounted upside down and I'm able to scroll through the 1-5 gears no problem with LH thumb and pointer.

Again very nice work, how is the revolt doing? Have you seen Larsb's revolt rewinding thread in the motor tech section?

I just read larsb's post. Amazing work! custom tools, 3D printed spacers, master crafting etc. etc. that's some serious commitment!

As for my RV160, I don't have any complaints. It works okay and I haven't had the same problems as others with overheating etc. It's good but no real wow factor, maybe it needs the larsb treatment thanks for pointing that out for me Wheazel.

My next step is removing the entire motor and "cage" and somehow squishing a motor/gearbox in that space. I need a 1:6-ish before the crank to get this thing to the next level of performance. I'm not changing camps and going hub, but with the way time is limited now, I might just slap a hub on there for the meantime so I don't lose out on the summer and I can take my time on the design. I guess this will mean another set of dropouts, so far I have 157mm and now 135mm and probably need 142's. I'm not impressed with the IGH...