Will this setup give me insane watt?

MadRhino said:
Yes they are very good controllers. Big and heavy (that is the downside), fully programmable, already capable of high power and not upgradeable.

That is what I like: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=16605

Light weight, thin shape neatly mounting on the bike frame, easily upgradeable, programmable, Cycle Analyst compatible. Can be ordered with options: upgraded wiring, beefed traces, programming cable, throttle, 3 spd switch.
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Yeah they sure looks nice.
Btw. are the Sabvoton possible to make amp lower?
And those which are rated for 96v for example... Can they go down to 48v. And are those 72v capable of slight overvolt and downvolt?
IF the 96v is downvoltable, what are the benefits for a 72v then? :S
 
It is programmable, so you can set max power and low voltage cutoff as you want, and many other parameters. There is a high limit, but no low limit.
 
MadRhino said:
It is programmable, so you can set max power and low voltage cutoff as you want, and many other parameters. There is a high limit, but no low limit.
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So what ure saying, is that if im buying the 96volt version.. I can make it work with everything under? example 48v, 60v , 72v etc?

So its actualy smarter to buy a higher volt version to downvolt it?
 
Yep, under 100v. Higher limit than 100v does mean different mosfets that have a higher resistance. Anyway, you will never run a mid drive motor at 100v, for those mid motors are fast windings.
 
Voltron said:
Motors don't generate watts... you put watts into them from the controller., so its more how many watts will it withstand and for how long.

The rating is how many watts it can take for certain periods before melting.
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It's kinda the same thing for car engine motor... Motors dont generate HP... It's fuel that generate HP. If you pump more fuel (and air mixture) into the cyclinder, you'll get more HP out of the same motor. The way to do it if forced induction : by a turbocharger, pump in more pressurized air (thus oxygen to let more injected fuel burn) along with more fuel in the motor you get more HP.

The question is, will the motor will be able to cope with the added stress and the added heat ???
 
OK but... the combustion engine doesn't produce any combustible when you spin it, while the electric motor does generate electricity when you spin it. That is what regen is, thus electric motors could be rated by watts produced vs RPM. :wink:
 
A "little bit" of knowledge can be an expensive thing. You think you understand something, spend money and time on an experimental build and then?...it dies from additional issues you didn't calculate for.

The fastest way to build something that works well the first time, is to copy an existing build, and politely ask the builder what issues they experienced during the experimental testing phase. there's a good chance that whatever you are dreaming up, someone has tried it before. I'm not saying to not experiment...experiments are fun, so have fun and post the results, but...it's good to know ahead of time the things that you will likely run into.
 
MadRhino said:
OK but... the combustion engine doesn't produce any combustible when you spin it, while the electric motor does generate electricity when you spin it. That is what regen is, thus electric motors could be rated by watts produced vs RPM. :wink:
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Clever one MadRhino ! , you got me on this one :D
Gas engines sure dont produce comustible, althought they do displace matter (air is compressed) and produce heat by friction when you "spin it", and this implies some sort of energy.

The turbocharged engine analogy is to emphasized that motor are just a mean to convert one form of energy into another one. They don't produce power on their own but rather, they convert electrical (or chemical/calorifical) energy into mechanical energy.
 
http://www.sabvoton.com/product/new-generation-sabvoton-sine-wave-motor-controller-72v-150a.html#.WR97vnnYUuU

I bought this :)
 
MadRhino said:
That is a very good controller, you will love it.
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Thanks alot for SUPER good help MadRhino. I couldent have done this without your help!
I will surely be at your service if i gain some more valuable knowledge to you :)
 
He's putting it on some kind of scooter not a regular bike, so the Cyclone prob isn't going to work out, without major mounting mods.
 
Pota said:
The seller of the motor says:

11 tooth sprocket, it is haw effect and will only work with the correct voltage/wattage, controller.

Is that correct. Or does he say that not to overvolt it?
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I've run all my BOMAs at 82 volts. Ignore that nonsense. If you had a 150 volt controller and battery pack, you could run the BOMA at 150 volts. This is not a concern that you will likely exceed. The winding insulation dielectric is something like 2000 volts. I'm much more concerned about you exceeding the current handling ability of the motor, making it get too hot and burning it out.

You will want to remove the screens over the holes in the end caps. They get clogged up and the motor gets no air. They are useless anyway. I still have a 1500 watt BOMA that runs. It ran at 82 volts with no issues hauling a 120 pound scooter with my 240 pounds on top of that at 40mph. You need to set the phase current down low enough to NOT burn out the motor. At 1500 watts and 82 volts, that's about 20 amps, but you can go a little higher. Maxing the phase amps won't give you more power at the motor...just a very hot motor. Set the phase amps only as high as you can feel it making more torque in the motor and then back off 5-10%. I don't know what gearing or wheel size you are using, but gearing that is too close to 1:1 will cause the motor to suck down current and to get hot quickly. You want the motor to spin easily enough that it's not always fighting to rotate. This is a fact of all motors. They have limited ability to deliver torque so you have to use them inside their limits.

Enjoy over watting your motor! It will take some abuse and keep going as long as you don't let it get too hot. I added a blower to force air into mine so that I could run it harder. That worked great until the stupid screens clogged up. Anyway, at the can, 160F is a good maximum limit, but inside the windings that's more like 230F or hotter...so things are close to frying. I typically stayed at 140F at the can. Stay around 140F and you will be OK. If the motor windings use good quality insulation and lets face it, this is a cheap BOMA so that's highly doubtful, then the wire insulation is going to fail at 200C/392F. Since this is a cheap BOMA, expect the wire insulation to fail at a much lower temperature...say 130C/260F. Keep it cool and it will run a lot longer, but run it hot and push too much current through it and it will die quickly.
 
Voltron said:
He's putting it on some kind of scooter not a regular bike, so the Cyclone prob isn't going to work out, without major mounting mods.
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cyclone=POS...really? planetary gears? Ugg! And there is no way they are 3000 watts continuous. I stake my claims on a 2000 watt BOMA running at 3000 watts continuous first. Oh wait I DID just that and it ran fine with a blower until the vents clogged up.
 
spinningmagnets said:
A "little bit" of knowledge can be an expensive thing. You think you understand something, spend money and time on an experimental build and then?...it dies from additional issues you didn't calculate for.

The fastest way to build something that works well the first time, is to copy an existing build, and politely ask the builder what issues they experienced during the experimental testing phase. there's a good chance that whatever you are dreaming up, someone has tried it before. I'm not saying to not experiment...experiments are fun, so have fun and post the results, but...it's good to know ahead of time the things that you will likely run into.
Click to expand...

What SM said...totally agree!
 
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