panurge
10 kW
Hello Steven,
You need a new shaft made by steel or Ti. It should have a key groove both ends and/or flats for screwsets, if you want to keep the beariing assembly, than you need a 12mm shaft as it was.
At each end you will mount (with keyway/setscrews) the staton inc freewheel adapters for standard bicycle threaded freewheels. for a 12mm shaft, you have the option to get a blank (no hole) adapter:
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1863 (for 15t and up)
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1864 (for 13-15t)
and let your shop to taper/drill/broach what you need for coupling it with the shaft.
or you can start from a 11mm bore version like that, rectify it to 12 and eventually add drilled tapered holes for setscrews and adapt a key.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1865
this one should be good for the right side of the jackshaft since you can mount a fixed cog and a freewheel in the same adapter.
You will need RH threaded adapters and RH freewheels both ends, with just the left one flipped over (the whoole adapter with the freewheel mounted) or you can decide for a LH threaded adapter with LH freewheel in the left end of the Jackshaft, LH freewheels are available, but normally with less quality.
excess and ACS as well as the higher end WI eno are the most used and reliable 16+T units; with a M30 x 1 threaded adapter you could mount 13t FW units and also LH ones like dicta or acs southpaw.
You just need to choose your motor and do the right math starting form its specs and your torque/speed needs, to decide the whole reduction and how to spread that over the stages, keeping in mind that the other important question is to verify you have enough space for the adapters/sprockets/freewheels in the new configuration.
Resuming everything:
Define torque and speed demands/Chose motor
Define overall reduction
Define teeth count for any drive and driven sprocket (or pulley) with attention to the room available for them and their chains/belts.
Get the shaft, the 2 adapters, sprockets/pulleys and the 2 freewheel units.
As said I would suggest an Astro, you couldn't have many other options for the space other than an Astro or again an 80-100 style outrunner.
As said if you choose a faster motor, the Apex gearbox, almost useless as it was, could turns otherwise really useful.
Hopemy POW it's now clear enough and I look forward to progress on that.
I'll be glad to support this build for what I can.
You need a new shaft made by steel or Ti. It should have a key groove both ends and/or flats for screwsets, if you want to keep the beariing assembly, than you need a 12mm shaft as it was.
At each end you will mount (with keyway/setscrews) the staton inc freewheel adapters for standard bicycle threaded freewheels. for a 12mm shaft, you have the option to get a blank (no hole) adapter:
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1863 (for 15t and up)
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1864 (for 13-15t)
and let your shop to taper/drill/broach what you need for coupling it with the shaft.
or you can start from a 11mm bore version like that, rectify it to 12 and eventually add drilled tapered holes for setscrews and adapt a key.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1865
this one should be good for the right side of the jackshaft since you can mount a fixed cog and a freewheel in the same adapter.
You will need RH threaded adapters and RH freewheels both ends, with just the left one flipped over (the whoole adapter with the freewheel mounted) or you can decide for a LH threaded adapter with LH freewheel in the left end of the Jackshaft, LH freewheels are available, but normally with less quality.
excess and ACS as well as the higher end WI eno are the most used and reliable 16+T units; with a M30 x 1 threaded adapter you could mount 13t FW units and also LH ones like dicta or acs southpaw.
You just need to choose your motor and do the right math starting form its specs and your torque/speed needs, to decide the whole reduction and how to spread that over the stages, keeping in mind that the other important question is to verify you have enough space for the adapters/sprockets/freewheels in the new configuration.
Resuming everything:
Define torque and speed demands/Chose motor
Define overall reduction
Define teeth count for any drive and driven sprocket (or pulley) with attention to the room available for them and their chains/belts.
Get the shaft, the 2 adapters, sprockets/pulleys and the 2 freewheel units.
As said I would suggest an Astro, you couldn't have many other options for the space other than an Astro or again an 80-100 style outrunner.
As said if you choose a faster motor, the Apex gearbox, almost useless as it was, could turns otherwise really useful.
Hopemy POW it's now clear enough and I look forward to progress on that.
I'll be glad to support this build for what I can.