Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

OV_ said:
GmagNeato said:
Hey gang hope all is well.

It's been quite a while since I was on. I've put almost 3000 miles on my bike with no real issues to speak of.. until now. :(

I got caught in a pretty bad rain shower yesterday on the way to work. Had no choice but to press on and try to make it there. After a couple of miles, the motor brought me to a shuddering stop. The screen displays "Protect" when I attempt to apply throttle, and nothing happens. From that point on, the wheel drags constantly as if slight regen is applied , (heavy cogging). It does this even when I turn the controller off. Only if I disconnect one of the phase wires does the cogging stop and the motor turn freely.

Today I opened everything up except the motor, to make sure all was dry and check connections etc. I can't detect any issues in the wiring. The halls appear to be working and moving in sequence on the display H1-H6. I tried a System Reset and then an autodetect. After a few moments, I'm getting Halls e2 error message and it stops. Also, if I attempt to charge the bike through the coil, it doesn't detect a voltage and won't charge. Anyone run across similar symptoms/issues and/or have an idea what could be wrong? What else could I test to try and determine if it's a controller or motor issue? I only have a few months left on the warranty, so if it's the controller I'll need to get it sent out asap.

Greatly appreciate any help you could offer!
Click to expand...

I have same problem: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&start=4325#p1285676

I've contacted Adaptto via their web form two times first time 3 weeks ago and havn't got any answers :/

If u look at their sales thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=58190&start=1450 it looks pretty dead allso at their forntpage u can see Interbike 2015 ad. So the site has been updated 2015 last time?

Great urge to go for ride so I orderd this: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=85156 It doesn't have adapttos monitor, but there's wireless programming and they are working to have wireless dashboard "Upgrade of the hardware to enable dashboard functionality is possible and is not that hard. With some basic soldering skills, anyone can do it. I am also considering using the CA connector thar is already present on many controllers to make it fully plug and play. I may offer hardware upgrades to already sold controllers. "

Still if there's way to get Max-e working would be very nice cause it's awsome controller. But don't have all summer to wait for it...

Allso Qulbix is/was OEM distrubtor: http://adaptto.com/Services-for-OEM/ but they don't have Adaptto controllers anymore? https://qulbix.com/qulbix-products/diy/controllers
Click to expand...

pretty much something went wrong with the phase wires, either a short on the motor or pcb on the controller. better fix and TEST the motor 100% before connecting to the adaptto again.
if you are very very lucky, fix the short on motor might be ok. otherwise a trip to Russia.
 
Allex said:
It will never charge another group, but it will bleed down the rest to what ever voltage you set the "Balancing" to
So if low is 3,85 and high is 4,15 you just set the balancing to 3,85 and leave it for(ever) some time. Don't need the charger for that. It´s not healthy for the batteries anyway to cycle them like this for long, because your charger will push the voltage up and at the same time BMS will bleed the cells - making the cells charge/discharge in a constant loop.
Click to expand...
Ok that makes a bit of sense. I'll test that out soon. Cheers.

Sent from my SUPER using Tapatalk
 
icherouveim said:
After a conversation I had with a senior electronic engineer,
I will give you a hint. It has helped me a lot many times.

The secret medicine is the "slow charging" it works like a healing power for the cells.
When I am not in hurry I always charge my pack at 250W of power by using my efficient fan-less meanwell PSU.
It takes only some cycles to see the difference and the pack is perfectly balanced.
BTW it seems that something is wrong with your battery pack if you have such big anomalies so soon.
As I remember from your YouTube video your pack is no more than 1 year old right ?
Click to expand...

Yeah my battery is only about a year old, but i never really looked at the balance charge settings, so would just charge it up for a couple of hours after or before a ride. So as 1 group gets down, I think what happens is, that the problem gets worse unless corrected. so far after my little charge trick that group is staying up nicely, so I hope the problem was just some out of balance shenanigans. I tested every cell with a multimeter when i had it open the other day and they all read the same voltage, so thats a start at giving the group the thumbs up. Im about to charge her up and go for a spin, so will know the health of the pack after a few more cycles.

Thanks for your charge tip. I usually I charge at about 10amps, but I might experiment lowering that for a bit more charge time. I might also leave my bike on to balance as well with no charger plugged in for a few hours soon and see what affect that has.
 
ridethelightning said:
Luge_a_foin said:
Have you just unsoldered the JST from the board?
Click to expand...

yes. heat the jst pins a little with the iron, the plastic softens and the white cover slides off, then heat the pins individually to remove them from the pcb pads :wink:
Click to expand...

I did have not some much time so and the voltage sag seems to keep in a correct range so I've tried this only this week-end. But I think I've done a mistake and damaged the board 4 (only the connecting part but probably unsolvable). Is it possible to use the board 1, 2, 3, 5 & 6 without using the 4th?
Thanks in advance.
 
Offroader said:
I actually bought both the 30A and the 70A. My reasoning was they were so cheap that maybe it would be wise to have a spare. What were they like $30 dollars or something.

The other reason was if I decided to keep a charger on your bike or needed to carry a charger with me, then the smaller one would be more compact.

I never touched the 30A one yet..
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. Two is One and One is none.
 
CLIFFSIDE said:
Offroader said:
I actually bought both the 30A and the 70A. My reasoning was they were so cheap that maybe it would be wise to have a spare. What were they like $30 dollars or something.

The other reason was if I decided to keep a charger on your bike or needed to carry a charger with me, then the smaller one would be more compact.

I never touched the 30A one yet..
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. Two is One and One is none.
Click to expand...

Good morning,

By the way I am very happy with my 30A coil. I've tested it and it doesn't get hot when you charge at 15A.
 
30amp coil does 35amps without any issues.
70amp coil is only needed when you have a very low voltage source.
but i prefer lower amps and higher voltage. way less heat.
remember what charge connector you should need for 70amps continue.

i would recommend flatpacks as a charger. yea in my signature i normal sell them. but its not an advertise because i havent anymore *lol

over 50s sold and all are pretty happy with it. power + unbelivable silent.
 
Could you let me know that part ?

My adappto part burn.
 

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I just got my Mini-E yesterday. I wired it to my battery (without setting anything else up) and my screen hasn't come on. Do I have to set something else up to test or shou it have powered up just being connected to my battery (72v 15ah).

Thanks
 
dirttorpedo said:
I just got my Mini-E yesterday. I wired it to my battery (without setting anything else up) and my screen hasn't come on. Do I have to set something else up to test or shou it have powered up just being connected to my battery (72v 15ah).

Thanks
Click to expand...

Did you wire the on/off switch wires?
 
I did. I emailed Alex last night and he got back to me this morning. Sent a follow up email but I think it's night time over there. Had time this morning to hook up a multimeter to the on-off wires and it looks like those two wires are putting out the same voltage as my batteries. Two lifepo4 testing with, a 24 volt and a 48 volt. Both batteries are showing just under the fully charged voltage from the on off wires. I emailed him about that as well because the voltage seems a little high to me for an on-off switch. Just waiting to hear back from him. I was just wondering since you guys have years of experience with these things if anybody else has had this issue in the past.
 
dirttorpedo said:
I did. I emailed Alex last night and he got back to me this morning. Sent a follow up email but I think it's night time over there. Had time this morning to hook up a multimeter to the on-off wires and it looks like those two wires are putting out the same voltage as my batteries. Two lifepo4 testing with, a 24 volt and a 48 volt. Both batteries are showing just under the fully charged voltage from the on off wires. I emailed him about that as well because the voltage seems a little high to me for an on-off switch. Just waiting to hear back from him. I was just wondering since you guys have years of experience with these things if anybody else has had this issue in the past.
Click to expand...

Good morning,

You should be patient with adaptto controllers, every beginning is difficult but you should know
when you go adaptto & right setup you never go back to other old technologies.

I am sure you will find a solution with Alex.

The worst case scenario is to send the controller back to Russia for repair.

Have you checked Screen's cables ? Maybe there are lose connections.
 
Although I've set up a number of Adaptto controllers, I've a problem that's got me beat.

to start, I have a box with several screens in it - and may I have used a screen that came with a mini-E..... however Max-E firmware has been flashed to it.

the Max-E controller (not yet used, but may be 3 years old).... latest firmware has been flashed. Autodetect will perform normally, with the wheel spinning up to high speed as part of the process. As far as I can tell, every setting is exactly the same as a matching setup on the bike next to it.


Problems : In each power mode wheel will only spin slowly when throttle applied (smoothly, but slow) and system will not pull more than about 0.5 amps (no load). I have performed Autodetect a number of times, but will not fix the issue to allow the wheel to spin up normally.

Will not charge - (power level indicator on the screen seems to pulse all the time, not remain at a constant)... Although the charge input Amp level has been set at 20amps, the screen displays 65 or 72Amps input when the PSU is connected, and charge level will only get 0.5 amps, with the display reading "detecting charger"... and will not proceed past this point. The motor will make a high pitch beeeeeeep whilst trying to initiate charge. But the normal charge process does not happen.

All power mode profiles are set. All traction, charge, battery and bms settings have been set... seems like a glitch somewhere but not sure Calling out for a suggestion.

cheers.
Simon.
 
For starters, turn off all traction settings, and turn off charger auto detect/auto start. Try some different speed limits in profile settings. I really dont have a clue, but anything is worth a try. As you say it must be glitch in one of the settings.
Are the mosfet temps reading o.k? Is your motor temp probe set up properly?
 
on my first max-e(firmware) i had a glitch that in eco mode throttle doesnt work on 27kph speedlimit setup.

yea....freakshow as its finest. on 26kph everything normal, on 28kph everything normal. on 27, no power no throttle. weird.
 
Hi,

On the previous page I mentioned a problem with my Max-E that happened while charging. Well I found the 3 positive FETs on the charging phase had all shorted so I replaced those but it still doesn't work.

I thought it might have been a BMS problem so I removed the BMS from the system too. Now when I try the autodetect I get "Halls error 1" when connecting either of the two sets of Hall sensors in the Cromotor. I think its unlikely that all the Halls have failed since only one set was in the circuit when the fault happened.

The motor runs but it cogs badly yet there is nothing wrong with the wiring anywhere and all the FETs are ok. Also the computer behaves strangely. If I put it into charge mode it will not come out by pressing the down button. I have to go into the menu and disable charging. This thing really isn't happy!

Any ideas?
 
ridethelightning said:
@willow, did you give it a reset after the flash?
Click to expand...

...did a system reset, but didn't disconnect and re-connect after reset. Might try this. Strangely, when I first plugged it up, it didn't work, but when I left it overnight, it worked briefly the next morning, then didn't again.

EDIT : disconnected battery after reset, re-connected, re-ran autodetect.... and issue remains. Will swap out screens and or controller and see where I get.
 
Willow said:
Although I've set up a number of Adaptto controllers, I've a problem that's got me beat.

to start, I have a box with several screens in it - and may I have used a screen that came with a mini-E..... however Max-E firmware has been flashed to it.

the Max-E controller (not yet used, but may be 3 years old).... latest firmware has been flashed. Autodetect will perform normally, with the wheel spinning up to high speed as part of the process. As far as I can tell, every setting is exactly the same as a matching setup on the bike next to it.


Problems : In each power mode wheel will only spin slowly when throttle applied (smoothly, but slow) and system will not pull more than about 0.5 amps (no load). I have performed Autodetect a number of times, but will not fix the issue to allow the wheel to spin up normally.

Will not charge - (power level indicator on the screen seems to pulse all the time, not remain at a constant)... Although the charge input Amp level has been set at 20amps, the screen displays 65 or 72Amps input when the PSU is connected, and charge level will only get 0.5 amps, with the display reading "detecting charger"... and will not proceed past this point. The motor will make a high pitch beeeeeeep whilst trying to initiate charge. But the normal charge process does not happen.

All power mode profiles are set. All traction, charge, battery and bms settings have been set... seems like a glitch somewhere but not sure Calling out for a suggestion.

cheers.
Simon.
Click to expand...

ISSUES SOLVED thankyou ridethelightning. Changing the thermistor type from KTY84 to KTY83 in the settings fixed both issues of charging and normal operation. Temperature readout on the screen however seems to be incorrect - started at 0 degrees C (ambient temp was about 12 degrees C), and after 10mins of hard riding read only 20 degrees.

Bike seems to have a bit more go-go than the other one with an identical setup... so all is good.
 
ISSUES SOLVED thankyou ridethelightning. Changing the thermistor type from KTY84 to KTY83 in the settings fixed both issues of charging and normal operation. Temperature readout on the screen however seems to be incorrect - started at 0 degrees C (ambient temp was about 12 degrees C), and after 10mins of hard riding read only 20 degrees.

Bike seems to have a bit more go-go than the other one with an identical setup... so all is good.

Hello,

if it doesn't read the temperature well then you should be careful not to burn your motor.
I had the same problem and I had to send the controller back to Russia because something was burned into the controller.
it seems that's why it was reducing power because it was reading very high (wrong) temperature.
you haven't solved your problem yet.
 
should be fairly safe for the controller with incorrect MOTOR temp sens selected i would have thought. just keep checking with your hand that the case doesnt get above warm.
the internal controller fet temp sensor is another matter...
 
btw, i still have an issue with a mini-e that i sent brand new, back for repair, and when it returned, it now has PROTECTION on screen, and reads contiuous 130A!

no amount of changing temp sensors has helped so far, still same. tried calibrating the shunt but it only made the current read 180A.

reflash firmware or reset does not help either.

i kind of gave up on it when adaptto asked me for a video of it.. :roll:
 
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