A2b metro gti

Got my freewheel remover today and got that fitted and checked the offset to check it's all sitting correctly and it's spot on the mxus 3k turbo hub is identical to the stock 500watt in shape and size the disc brake needs a spacer and the axle is larger but the flats are still 10mm to fit in the frame with no fuss if it had 13gauge spoke holes and a disk spacer in the box it would be a straight swap but I want to make use of that 3.4 inch wide rear swing arm so Im gonna meat it up a bit.

Most people video they hubs spinning from electric power but I was so impressed with the quality sound it gives off while pedaling it I thought I'd share it.
[youtube]8EH7hZfi_YA[/youtube]
 
Nice to see your upgrade unfolding. I am adding kWs to my A2b metro as well.
keep us updeted.
 
Amiran said:
Nice to see your upgrade unfolding. I am adding kWs to my A2b metro as well.
keep us updeted.
Click to expand...

I'm addiing kWs to my a2b metro aswell, did you mean more power in the kilowatts? It's nice to see that these bike's are a bit cheaper in price now they have aged and some are even spares like I was lucky enough to find, with a bit of tinkering and component uogrades it can make a decent cruiser at least that's what i hope anyway.

I've also got hubsinks and 10ml statorade on the way in the next few weeks so I'm hoping my torque arms are ready soon I should have some alloy MZ rims in the post so lots of pics to come and hopefully it sits on its wheels and I can move on to electrics, Lipo it's going to be I'm aiming for 72v 20ah but I will have to sell my faggio scooter to make this happen :(

But it will be worth it :)
 
I need a bit of input if possible from a fellow a2b metro owner or someone with service knowledge.
When I received the bike the chain roller assembly was in a box of parts after looking at pictures I have assembled what looks to be correct but in first gear the top roller allows the chain to fowl on the crank ring a little so I'm wondering if I'm missing a small spring that goes behind the roller to tension it slightly, I have added a pic to show my issue theres a black sleeve on the stainless bolt that area is a causing the issue, thanks again all.

To me the sleeve needs to be longer to restrict the movement of the roller, there could be a very light spring keeping the roller further over but it's not as good as just have the correct length sleeve with it all free to move as the chain wishes any input will help it's not a show stopper at worst I'll get a 8mm inmer sleeve made 23.5mm long it will work just fine then in the low and high gears but I would like to see a stock one to see what part I'm missing.
 
Got my rims, discs and mounts today, next job is to open the front wheel hub flange spoke hole out to 3.2mm (there's loads of meat available to do it safely) then measure front and back to get the spokes made up just need to get the torque arms when they finally get cut and it's back in its wheels then.

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It's my birthday today so ive been chilling out enjoying myself with friends, but i did have a look at the rear 2.15 rim with the stock kenda 3.00 / 20 tyre fitted, the tyre looks a good fit sits very nice on the rim and should give a good foot print for traction in the rear.
In time I will need to get some better tyres that match the overall 22 inch diameter and more suited to the higher speed ratings but seems my budget is spiriling out of control and choking me i will have to make do with the kenda till they wear out and i got time to save up, or rob a bank and get a bigger budget.
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Oh man you forgot the hub and the spokes ;)

That looks like some serious boots.
 
I would not recommend riding these Kendas... They have no grip if you speed above 20miles and you will get in trouble.
Try to get at least cheap 16 inch moped tires, please!
I got Heidenau 80/80J-16 Road Tyre Tubeless K63(46J) and stopping distance went almost half compared to stopping on Kendas...
A couple of good tire irons will help you to mount moto tires easy. It is only first time when it seems impossible, but use some soap and water, you will master the tire mounting like a pro :)
 
Amiran said:
I would not recommend riding these Kendas... They have no grip if you speed above 20miles and you will get in trouble.
Try to get at least cheap 16 inch moped tires, please!
I got Heidenau 80/80J-16 Road Tyre Tubeless K63(46J) and stopping distance went almost half compared to stopping on Kendas...
A couple of good tire irons will help you to mount moto tires easy. It is only first time when it seems impossible, but use some soap and water, you will master the tire mounting like a pro :)
Click to expand...

I will soon as I can afford it the bill is getting massive now with custom spokes and torque arms.

The kendas compound is not that grippy at all admitted and they went on the rim with plastic little tyre levers that come in a puncture kit, I do have decent levers but when I go the the moped rim I would like to do tubeless at the same time.

The headache I've got at the moment is going from a 2mm hub flange hole to a 7mm rim hole for the front, I can lace the rear no issue but the front will need dished washers I can't find another way around it. All will be safe I won't do it otherwise.
 
Got my new torque arms today absolute stunning bit of metal, the original stock arm was 2mm these are 5mm a piece totaling 10mm of high grade stainless steel with a very tight fit to the axle and then bolted to the frame, as well as the alloy frame meat thats already stopping the hub rotating and to top it off the nuts both sides engage the axle thread with one thread left over so it's perfect sizing. It's safe to say when locked down this hub will not be breaking lose and spinning it's phase wires off.
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Ianhill said:
Amiran said:
I would not recommend riding these Kendas... They have no grip if you speed above 20miles and you will get in trouble.
Try to get at least cheap 16 inch moped tires, please!
I got Heidenau 80/80J-16 Road Tyre Tubeless K63(46J) and stopping distance went almost half compared to stopping on Kendas...
A couple of good tire irons will help you to mount moto tires easy. It is only first time when it seems impossible, but use some soap and water, you will master the tire mounting like a pro :)
Click to expand...

I will soon as I can afford it the bill is getting massive now with custom spokes and torque arms.

The kendas compound is not that grippy at all admitted and they went on the rim with plastic little tyre levers that come in a puncture kit, I do have decent levers but when I go the the moped rim I would like to do tubeless at the same time.

The headache I've got at the moment is going from a 2mm hub flange hole to a 7mm rim hole for the front, I can lace the rear no issue but the front will need dished washers I can't find another way around it. All will be safe I won't do it otherwise.
Click to expand...

Did you consider to keep the front rim as it is?
I do not think it sheds a lot of forces on A2B so I kept it and mounted 80/80 16 Heidenau with no problem...
 
Ianhill said:
Got my new torque arms today absolute stunning bit of metal, the original stock arm was 2mm these are 5mm a piece totaling 10mm of high grade stainless steel with a very tight fit to the axle and then bolted to the frame, as well as the alloy frame meat thats already stopping the hub rotating and to top it off the nuts both sides engage the axle thread with one thread left over so it's perfect sizing. It's safe to say when locked down this hub will not be breaking lose and spinning it's phase wires off.
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Click to expand...

I want them torque arms. Can you let me know how you source them.
Thank you
 
Amiran said:
Ianhill said:
Got my new torque arms today absolute stunning bit of metal, the original stock arm was 2mm these are 5mm a piece totaling 10mm of high grade stainless steel with a very tight fit to the axle and then bolted to the frame, as well as the alloy frame meat thats already stopping the hub rotating and to top it off the nuts both sides engage the axle thread with one thread left over so it's perfect sizing. It's safe to say when locked down this hub will not be breaking lose and spinning it's phase wires off.
View attachment 3
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Click to expand...

I want them torque arms. Can you let me know how you source them.
Thank you
Click to expand...

I had them water jetted with a local firm at a very decent price for what they are.
Im a stickler for everything matching so the front rim has to go in time even if I keep it as is just for now and work something out down the line.
 
ElectricGod said:
Cool! Have you ridden it at all?
Click to expand...

Not under its own power or even pedal power I rolled it down my hill to feel how it turned and that was it so when it's done I've not got much to compare it to as a standard but it will be better no doubt but how much to the original I may never know.
 
ElectricGod said:
Your replacement motor looks like it's the same size as the original motor. What's the wattage of the new one?
Click to expand...

3000w nominal and 6000 watt peak for the Mxus 3k vs 500watt stock I've heard people running them around 2000w but mine went tits up taking it apart if it was a gen2 hub it would of been easier but Its coming along nice now.
 
Ianhill said:
ElectricGod said:
Your replacement motor looks like it's the same size as the original motor. What's the wattage of the new one?
Click to expand...

3000w nominal and 6000 watt peak for the Mxus 3k vs 500watt stock I've heard people running them around 2000w but mine went tits up taking it apart if it was a gen2 hub it would of been easier but Its coming along nice now.
Click to expand...
This is how I started. Broke the flanges when tried to pull open the motor with axle puller thing so I went to Aliexpress.. :oops:

Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
 
Amiran said:
Ianhill said:
ElectricGod said:
Your replacement motor looks like it's the same size as the original motor. What's the wattage of the new one?
Click to expand...

3000w nominal and 6000 watt peak for the Mxus 3k vs 500watt stock I've heard people running them around 2000w but mine went tits up taking it apart if it was a gen2 hub it would of been easier but Its coming along nice now.
Click to expand...
This is how I started. Broke the flanges when tried to pull open the motor with axle puller thing so I went to Aliexpress.. :oops:

Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I was winding away and tapping it trying to convince it to open and I heard a loud cracking noise I couldn't see anything wrong when I looked further there was an airline crack in the case around the bearing hole, having a hammer in my hand I proceeded to knock chucks out it, I still got the hub it may make a small VAWT one day.
 
I'm far from out of the woods yet, I have the torque arms in place stopping forward and backwards rocking motion of the spindle, I now have the task of securing the frame to the axle without fowling any of the parts in motion.
To do this on the axle at the end of the threadeds it tappers out giving a good place to apply the sideways lock down force.
The mxus hub comes with washers that fit over the axle perfectly so I took one of these and rounded it off to sit inside my freewheel sprocket at the end of threads but not interfere with anything as the hub turns or pedaling.
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The problem I face now is the disc brake mounting needs a 5mm spacer to sit the disc out enough to get a caliper behind to fit I don't get why the hub sits the disc so close it's useless as is but when I space it out the phase wires will be very close to the spinning disc and I need to fit a washers in there to for sideways clamping force so ive got a bit of head scratching to do yet but there is just enough space to make it work it's just a case of messaging the parts into place.
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Even the m16 nut in the drive side needed its shoulder to be filled down a little to clear the derailer it's not a simple job by far but Im winning.
 
Pictures of the spacer I made up for the drive side its made of the original torque washer then a 3mm thick m10 washer filed to shape and size then an m10 penny washer filed to the axle oval and then all bonded together with loctite 273 just to aid alignment when fitting I don't won't them moving about when I'm putting the axle in the frame.
The penny washers are to help stop any deformation on the frame from locking down on to the small shaft area on the other side is the torque arms so it's truly safe to say this sucker ain't going anywhere it's lock down well and all is perfectly aligned with enough space for the disc easy.View attachment 5
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The picture below shows the chain line and it's width from fouling the frame or my spacer, perfectly aligned if you ask me.
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This is the phase wire side I forgot to take pictures of this spacer it was getting late and I was getting a shift on to stop making alot of noise, I did simular to the drive side but I took a rounded file and opened up space for the wire to come through rather than have it bite into the cable I'll take a pic at a later date.
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Final picture from the side showing the finished article the hub fixed in place solid so I can measure my hub shift now and get the spokes made up I'll be opening the front out to 2.6mm spokes and the rear will be 3.2mm both using 6.4mm nipples.
 
I drilled the frame to bolt the torque arm down on the side that never had one and open the hole out on the side that did to m6 with no threads so the bolt and nut squishes the frame to the torque arm correctly with enough force.
I used m6 stainless pan head bolts with washers, flat and a domed nut so there's no sharp edges.
I bolted the hub down tight for the first time in its life so i could measure my hub shift and get the spoke length and angle worked out ready to order when i can afford it.
The rear end feels solid now it would take a massive impact to mess it up, theres no movement in the axle at all when I spin or peddle the hub so I'm more than happy with the result considering I was concerned if I could get it to work with the differences to how the stock hub mounts.
I just need to mount the disc now I was going to use multiple spacers but I have found a 4.8mm spacer for fat bike's that will do the trick in one so that's on my list too then I can sort the brake and fit the spokes and flip it over on its new wheels.
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Good to see the progress.
Would it be ok to ask you for drawings for torque arms?
Thanks
 
Amiran said:
Good to see the progress.
Would it be ok to ask you for drawings for torque arms?
Thanks
Click to expand...

There was two vital measurements missing off the drawing the height and width to the large oval hole centre and they were 110.5mm length and 19.5mm height.

I know the picture is ruff as, but there's enough there with what I've just said to build the cad file to send to any water jet company and get them to cut it in 5mm stainless I got 4mm on the drawing but it's an odd size that not many stock 5mm was cheaper.
 
Thanks,
I will try to cad it if you do not mind.

Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
 
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