David LaFerney
10 mW
I'm having to replace my charger - what do you recommend? I need to be able to set to a specific custom voltage for my home built 18650 pack. Links or specific model numbers to search for would be greatly appreciated.
David LaFerney said:I'm having to replace my charger - what do you recommend? I need to be able to set to a specific custom voltage for my home built 18650 pack. Links or specific model numbers to search for would be greatly appreciated.
cal3thousand said:David LaFerney said:I'm having to replace my charger - what do you recommend? I need to be able to set to a specific custom voltage for my home built 18650 pack. Links or specific model numbers to search for would be greatly appreciated.
What's the specific voltage?
David LaFerney said:I'm having to replace my charger - what do you recommend? I need to be able to set to a specific custom voltage for my home built 18650 pack. Links or specific model numbers to search for would be greatly appreciated.
You can set the termination voltage to what you want. And it will balance charge continously, without cutting out the charging.David LaFerney said:I actually tried to buy a Satiator to begin with, but the appropriate model was out of stock. That might be what I end up getting, but they sure are expensive. I'd like to consider other options before I jump. I actually have a cheesy imax charger that I can use for a little while. As long as I start charging long enough in advance.
It looks like the Icharger only has presets for the type and number of cells in series. Can you use it to charge to less than maximum?
hemo said:Meanwell HLG60/80/1OOH A series. 24V adjustable 22 - 27v and adj amps 2.5 -4.0. A bulk charger not a balance charger unless you run a BMS.
Jon NCal said:You can set the termination voltage to what you want. And it will balance charge continously, without cutting out the charging.David LaFerney said:I actually tried to buy a Satiator to begin with, but the appropriate model was out of stock. That might be what I end up getting, but they sure are expensive. I'd like to consider other options before I jump. I actually have a cheesy imax charger that I can use for a little while. As long as I start charging long enough in advance.
It looks like the Icharger only has presets for the type and number of cells in series. Can you use it to charge to less than maximum?
David LaFerney said:hemo said:Meanwell HLG60/80/1OOH A series. 24V adjustable 22 - 27v and adj amps 2.5 -4.0. A bulk charger not a balance charger unless you run a BMS.
So these LED drivers Are safe and reliable? The price is certainly right. The charge starts out CC then transitions to CV as the current tapers down to almost nothing? I didn't know that LEDs had such complicated needs. I guess these are made for grow lights or something like that?
I've been using a bulk charger while simultaneously using a battery medic to balance - no BMS. Works great - batteries end up perfectly balanced, within the limitations of the battery medic +-.015v or so.
cal3thousand said:[ you won't have to bother with pulling your packs apart down to 6S blocks to charge. If you had 2 chargers you could easily stick one on each 12S2P section. I would expect output of around 175W from a CLG-150-48A
I use a pair of HLG-600-54As in parallel to charge a 14s 40Ah pack at 24A directly thru the SB50 Andersons when I need a fast charge. They came from someone who used them plus another pair in series to fast charge a motorcycle's pack.David LaFerney said:So these LED drivers Are safe and reliable?
Actually they're for things like those big LED billboards, overhead lights, etc. That's why they're weatherproof.The charge starts out CC then transitions to CV as the current tapers down to almost nothing? I didn't know that LEDs had such complicated needs. I guess these are made for grow lights or something like that?
As long as you note that Battery Medics are not known for their accuracy, and verify balancing is really happening via multimeter, before you trust the BM's readings.I've been using a bulk charger while simultaneously using a battery medic to balance - no BMS. Works great - batteries end up perfectly balanced, within the limitations of the battery medic +-.015v or so.
cal3thousand said:like the CLGs a little better than the HLGs (I use both) since they generally have a wider voltage adjustment window.
If you are running the bike at 12S, get a CLG unit that ends in 48A. Those will adjust from around 38 V up to around 52V, with variation from unit to unit. Then, you won't have to bother with pulling your packs apart down to 6S blocks to charge. If you had 2 chargers you could easily stick one on each 12S2P section. I would expect output of around 175W from a CLG-150-48A
Lastly, if you do not want to charge at the 12S pack level, you can get a unit ending in 24A and that will work at 6S very well.
amberwolf said:As long as you note that Battery Medics are not known for their accuracy, and verify balancing is really happening via multimeter, before you trust the BM's readings.
David LaFerney said:cal3thousand said:like the CLGs a little better than the HLGs (I use both) since they generally have a wider voltage adjustment window.
If you are running the bike at 12S, get a CLG unit that ends in 48A. Those will adjust from around 38 V up to around 52V, with variation from unit to unit. Then, you won't have to bother with pulling your packs apart down to 6S blocks to charge. If you had 2 chargers you could easily stick one on each 12S2P section. I would expect output of around 175W from a CLG-150-48A
Lastly, if you do not want to charge at the 12S pack level, you can get a unit ending in 24A and that will work at 6S very well.
So just to be sure - you are saying that despite the CC voltage max rating being 24 volts a CLG-100-24 http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/CLG-100-24.shtml will actually charge to at least 25.2v - and would be a good choice for me to charge 6S at 4 amps?
That kinda also depends on the cells you use, and how close to their specs you use them.David LaFerney said:Not to be argumentative at all - a GOOD BMS should clearly be the way to go for all kinds of reasons
If you have (or add) taps, like for the Battery medics, you can use a voltmeter (or any other tested-good multicell volt-measuring device) and check the cells just as if there weren't a BMS, at various levels of discharge, and various stages of recharging, to be sure LVC and HVC and balancing are working as they should.- but how do you know if they are working accurately? As far as I know, you don't. Am I wrong - is there some way to measure BMS performance once a battery pack is in use that I just don't know about?
cal3thousand said:150 series datasheet: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/Mean%20well%20CLG-150%20series%20-%20single%20output%20switching-1109585.pdf
fourbanger said:It would be nice if there were a simple BMS out there that would allow for cell balancing at say 4.1 or 4.15 to extend battery life.
@Cal the CLG series do indeed seem to allow for more leeway in adjusting voltage output. Still, it'd be really spiffy to have a charger that would allow for a +/- 1S pack range, ie. 12s/13s/14s.
I'm eyeing up the HEP-600 right now, but to be honest I don't actually have any experience with the meanwell solution as of yet.
Not to get you in any hot water, but just out of curiosity when do you think your modded CLGs will be ready to go?
Well, weight doesn't necessarily indicate quality (I have transformer-based supplies that are VERY heavy, used to have one that took two people to lift), but yes, it is a nice one.skeetab5780 said:Amberwolf do you actually use a satiator?
Does it get hot enough to fry eggs like mine? It is a very nice charger you can tell because its so heavy(all potting and heat sink)