Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Allex said:
DC out 12v/16A
Click to expand...

fantastic :D
no more need to install a DCDC converter and the risk of a deep discharged battery
this makes the all in one unit much better now.
 
Allex said:
For those who are waiting for a new controller version, here is some "insider" info
This is roughly translated with google so take it easy :)

Currently the new 18 FET controller is almost finished. On the way to the finish line a lot of optimizations were made and in the end it became too powerful for ebikes. When using it with a mid drive config it feels like a 500cc bike. The limitations during the test were in the motor, controller itself was barely warm.

It became clear that this controller is way to powerful for a regular ebike user and so they begun to finalize a 6-fet controller on the same base. The power of this controller will be some where between mini and max.

Some specs:
Halls are separated, so now when you short halls with one of the phases, it will continue running but show a massage on the screen.
FOC mode - no more motor tuning. Some mid drives still need it, but the plan is of course to fix this as well.
Charge sensor - when you connect the coil the controller will see it and stop the motor.
Bluetooth - but this(app) is still in early stage. Need to fix for Android and IOS
Invertor mode + charge mode - on one phase you connect the charger on other two 220v invertor. This make it work like a UPS.
Spot welder mode - this is on the big controller, did not test this on the smaller one(will probably take 0.1mm but not 0.2 like the bigger one. You just need to connect electrodes to the phase wires to make it work.
Accelerometer, gyro and compass.
DC out 12v/16A
Ports: LCD, BMS, PAS, speed sensor, alarm and on/off. And also you will be able to connect throttle/brake without the display.

Old display will work with the new controller line but the throttle calibration will not work in this case

Main goal with this new controller will be robustness, practically non-breakable for all of those users that connect it the wrong way.
Better water protection and heat dissapation.

No prices yet.
No dates yet, but hopefully by the end of this year.
Fets are the same. IRFP4468. The controller is compatible with IRFP4568 (150v)
Battery limits are the same, about 90v, OVS is still present.
Controller supports the old BMS. New BMS is in plan, with temp-sensor.

Oh and the power on the big one: they test 18fet controller with 500-600 peak phase amps with 75V battery(75V when sagging) it spits out more than 30kW
New 18 fet will be slightly bigger than the old 18fet.
Yes you will be able to buy both 18 anf 6 fet version.

This is all!
Click to expand...

That is promising a lot! "Robustness, practically unbreakable".

I bet Dr.Bass will cream his pants when he reads the above lol. 8)
 
brumbrum said:
I bet Dr.Bass will cream his pants when he reads the above lol. 8)
Click to expand...

:mrgreen:
i bet he already has one or belongs to the beta testers
 
Absolutely great news!
Should we start a new thread for this new version?
This present thread is heavy enough as it is...

I propose to name the new thread: 2018 Adaptto Controller
and transfer the last relevant posts of this thread to the new one.
We need a mod to do the transfer I think.
Alex can start the new thread.
 
Decided to check this thread wondering if they maybe would be an update on a new version of the controller.

How does the inverter work exactly can you give more details? Is that 220 volts AC?
 
Wow, some awesome new features.

12V DC out is great... but also including Accelerometer, gyro and compass is freaking cool, but to also be able to use as a spot welder is next level.

Very much looking forward to getting my hands on a few.

Well done Adaptto.
 
Altair said:
Absolutely great news!
Should we start a new thread for this new version?
This present thread is heavy enough as it is...

I propose to name the new thread: 2018 Adaptto Controller
and transfer the last relevant posts of this thread to the new one.
We need a mod to do the transfer I think.
Alex can start the new thread.
Click to expand...
+1
 
Allex said:
Ports: LCD, BMS, PAS, speed sensor, alarm and on/off. And also you will be able to connect throttle/brake without the display.

Old display will work with the new controller line but the throttle calibration will not work in this case
Click to expand...

Any idea if the new Controller will support torquew sensors like Thun, TDCM, Sempa,.., or if the PAS-in is again just a simple switch ?

Is the Alarm combines with gyro and accelerator, or again just code input with brake-switch ?

So the old Display will work, but i guess the new display has another layout and design ?


greets

Notger
 
Hello all,

Is there a good power mode profiles setup tutorial anywhere- or is is it trial and error? On boost I am now running IbA of about 135 and IpA of about 320- now getting some great acceleration, but I also get a low battery notice when the pack is down to about 70%. I am running an Adaptto e-max and a 72v21a battery and the QSv3.

thanks for your help
 
tutorials are are available ;)

the "low batt" could have two reasons:

to much sag of one (or more) group of cells making the BMS to cut off (depends on the BMS settings)
to much sag of the entire battery making the controller to cut off (depends on low voltage cut off setting)

last thing you could avoid by increasing the setting "v soft limit" to about 3V or more.
the power will be smoothly reduced than.
otherwise you could set 2,5V as low voltage cutoff, but this won't be good for battery lifetime.

however, if your battery already sags soo much at 70% soc, than it probabaly is not designed to deliver 135A, or something is wrong with at least one group of cells!
 
Willow said:
Wow, some awesome new features.

12V DC out is great... but also including Accelerometer, gyro and compass is freaking cool, but to also be able to use as a spot welder is next level.

Very much looking forward to getting my hands on a few.

Well done Adaptto.
Click to expand...

The DC-DC will be interesting. Surprised they have a 16.7 amp output, that is a lot of amps basically it is a 200 watt output. This would be perfect for me because I use heated grips in the winter, use it to power my fan in my motor for cooling, and sometimes hook up some high powered LED lights. You could also use it to power heated clothing.

Hopefully the voltage will be somewhat controllable as most DC-DC converters have Trim and can be adjusted like 50% or more down and 10% up. The reason you would want to go lower is many high quality LED lights run on 2S lipo or 8 volts, and some claim that 12 volts may be too much for their built in DC-DC converter. However, I still run most 8 volt LED lights at 12 volts without any issues. I do remember reading that the MAX-E DC-DC converter would be adjustable on the display.

I also hope that the DC-DC converter can be turned off when you are not using it as most coverters draw a decent amount of current when on and when you are not drawing power from it, or called No Load current. Would be nice to see the datasheet of the DC-DC converter they are going to use. A large 16.7 amp converter will draw more no load current also then a smaller amp DC-DC converter, so surprised they are using such a large one as most will not need anywhere close to 16.7 amps at the 12 volt.

The other good thing is they finally are going to use a battery temp guage, something I have been complaining that the Max-E lacks. The only thing I don't like hearing is that the BMS will have it. I think that the controller should have its own temp wire for the battery and not need to go through the BMS and also display the battery temperature on the display.

I don't use the BMS for my Max-E but still charge my battery with the Max-E. I also would like to monitor the temps as I can heat my battery up to 50C, and I also would like the battery temp guage to cut off charging if the cells start overheating due to some charging issue or battery issue.
 
madin88 said:
tutorials are are available ;)

the "low batt" could have two reasons:

to much sag of one (or more) group of cells making the BMS to cut off (depends on the BMS settings)
to much sag of the entire battery making the controller to cut off (depends on low voltage cut off setting)

last thing you could avoid by increasing the setting "v soft limit" to about 3V or more.
the power will be smoothly reduced than.
otherwise you could set 2,5V as low voltage cutoff, but this won't be good for battery lifetime.

however, if your battery already sags soo much at 70% soc, than it probabaly is not designed to deliver 135A, or something is wrong with at least one group of cells!
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, will try these settings and see if that improves things. I am currently using lower (Dischg cutoff) 2.75x 20= 55 might knock this down a couple V, but I don't really want to kill the battery. Talking to my battery builder to see what he recommends.

I have been looking for some set up tutorials, but have not been able to find them- if you know where- would you lat me know.

cheers
g
 
First i would take a look to the BMS screen during drawing such high amps, but please be careful when doing so!!, better mount a camera above the display and keep your eyes on the road.
If only one or a few groups showing so much sag, than there could be a design flaw of the battery (it is important where the balancing wires are soldered), or defect cells.


otherwise, a sag to 2,75V per cell at 70% SOC will kill your battery quite soon!!
 
Hi

I just helped a buddy of mine put together a new e-bike with a Mini-E on it. (13S 9P - 48V pack)
Works good so far, but we´re getting negative amp values on the display when the bike is idle. Any idea what this could be?

When the bike is idle the display shows around -0,7 amps on the display. (Like when it´s charging or regen is active) This bike does not have a adaptto BMS.

Thanks!
 
bowers said:
Hi

I just helped a buddy of mine put together a new e-bike with a Mini-E on it. (13S 9P - 48V pack)
Works good so far, but we´re getting negative amp values on the display when the bike is idle. Any idea what this could be?

When the bike is idle the display shows around -0,7 amps on the display. (Like when it´s charging or regen is active) This bike does not have a adaptto BMS.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I believe this maybe adjusted on one of the shunt values in the setting. Go onto the calibration menu on the display and try adjusting 'zero offset'.
 
My Mini display wont come on. I had it up and running. Charged , AutoDetect, then ran it a bit on the stand. took a break , came back and the display was not there. I did hook up a brake throttle but wasn't sure about my connection so unhooked it , but then it ran some more before shutting it off the last time. Ive posted this here a month ago and ive tried contacting adaptto. I'm still without any answers. Can anyone make any suggestions? thanks doug
 
Just an idea please help me thinking about it.

Id like to make easyly swapable motormount for my bikes.
i would buy another Adaptto to mount them fixed on my bikes.

so where are actually all the settings of the controller stored, on the Display or the controller-"box" itself?

i'm just thinking about the option of just havin two seperate Displays mounted on the bikes and swap motor-controller unit togeter or just the motor to another controller.

Sure i do not want to make an autodetect and change all the setting everytime i swap th different motors.

??hope thats understandable

greets
Notger
 
(old)Max-e seems dead(display was working almost constantly for a year and today it is dead, no backlit and no reaction to throttle. Was fine yesterday).
Quick question: How do i check what is the problem?? When i plug 72v into it nothing happens and when i try to measure any voltage at display connector there is 0v.
Does bms get power when display is not powered?
Does halls get 5v when display is not powered?
My controller did not have on-off switch. I did not make mine either.

I recon that people were sending adaptto to russia and waiting 3 months for repair. Is it still the same?

Any help will be appreciated.
 
unusual.
being out of warranty means it cant hurt to open it up an see where the power is getting to (or not)
you sure you battery connections are good???
 
Battery is ok and 72v. When connecting to controller there is spark as usual.

If you have adaptto can you check if halls get 5v when display is not plugged in?

I will obviously open it up but i dont know what to look for. Maybe someone had simmilar issue before?

Thanks
 
atomek1000 said:
When connecting to controller there is spark as usual.
Click to expand...

Not want you want... you must use a pre-charge resistor to eliminate the spark. You can very easily damage the controller if you do not use one. Sparks are never good.
 
Longshot said:
Can someone point me to the info on how to replace the fuse in a max E? My motor fried it.
Click to expand...

There is no fuse in the controller but if you refer at the HALLS error after a short between phase and halls wires here is my solution:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=1277234&hilit=resistor#p1277234
 
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