Allex said:DC out 12v/16A
fantastic
no more need to install a DCDC converter and the risk of a deep discharged battery
this makes the all in one unit much better now.
Allex said:DC out 12v/16A
Allex said:For those who are waiting for a new controller version, here is some "insider" info
This is roughly translated with google so take it easy
Currently the new 18 FET controller is almost finished. On the way to the finish line a lot of optimizations were made and in the end it became too powerful for ebikes. When using it with a mid drive config it feels like a 500cc bike. The limitations during the test were in the motor, controller itself was barely warm.
It became clear that this controller is way to powerful for a regular ebike user and so they begun to finalize a 6-fet controller on the same base. The power of this controller will be some where between mini and max.
Some specs:
Halls are separated, so now when you short halls with one of the phases, it will continue running but show a massage on the screen.
FOC mode - no more motor tuning. Some mid drives still need it, but the plan is of course to fix this as well.
Charge sensor - when you connect the coil the controller will see it and stop the motor.
Bluetooth - but this(app) is still in early stage. Need to fix for Android and IOS
Invertor mode + charge mode - on one phase you connect the charger on other two 220v invertor. This make it work like a UPS.
Spot welder mode - this is on the big controller, did not test this on the smaller one(will probably take 0.1mm but not 0.2 like the bigger one. You just need to connect electrodes to the phase wires to make it work.
Accelerometer, gyro and compass.
DC out 12v/16A
Ports: LCD, BMS, PAS, speed sensor, alarm and on/off. And also you will be able to connect throttle/brake without the display.
Old display will work with the new controller line but the throttle calibration will not work in this case
Main goal with this new controller will be robustness, practically non-breakable for all of those users that connect it the wrong way.
Better water protection and heat dissapation.
No prices yet.
No dates yet, but hopefully by the end of this year.
Fets are the same. IRFP4468. The controller is compatible with IRFP4568 (150v)
Battery limits are the same, about 90v, OVS is still present.
Controller supports the old BMS. New BMS is in plan, with temp-sensor.
Oh and the power on the big one: they test 18fet controller with 500-600 peak phase amps with 75V battery(75V when sagging) it spits out more than 30kW
New 18 fet will be slightly bigger than the old 18fet.
Yes you will be able to buy both 18 anf 6 fet version.
This is all!
brumbrum said:I bet Dr.Bass will cream his pants when he reads the above lol. 8)
+1Altair said:Absolutely great news!
Should we start a new thread for this new version?
This present thread is heavy enough as it is...
I propose to name the new thread: 2018 Adaptto Controller
and transfer the last relevant posts of this thread to the new one.
We need a mod to do the transfer I think.
Alex can start the new thread.
Allex said:Ports: LCD, BMS, PAS, speed sensor, alarm and on/off. And also you will be able to connect throttle/brake without the display.
Old display will work with the new controller line but the throttle calibration will not work in this case
Willow said:Wow, some awesome new features.
12V DC out is great... but also including Accelerometer, gyro and compass is freaking cool, but to also be able to use as a spot welder is next level.
Very much looking forward to getting my hands on a few.
Well done Adaptto.
madin88 said:tutorials are are available
the "low batt" could have two reasons:
to much sag of one (or more) group of cells making the BMS to cut off (depends on the BMS settings)
to much sag of the entire battery making the controller to cut off (depends on low voltage cut off setting)
last thing you could avoid by increasing the setting "v soft limit" to about 3V or more.
the power will be smoothly reduced than.
otherwise you could set 2,5V as low voltage cutoff, but this won't be good for battery lifetime.
however, if your battery already sags soo much at 70% soc, than it probabaly is not designed to deliver 135A, or something is wrong with at least one group of cells!
bowers said:Hi
I just helped a buddy of mine put together a new e-bike with a Mini-E on it. (13S 9P - 48V pack)
Works good so far, but we´re getting negative amp values on the display when the bike is idle. Any idea what this could be?
When the bike is idle the display shows around -0,7 amps on the display. (Like when it´s charging or regen is active) This bike does not have a adaptto BMS.
Thanks!
atomek1000 said:When connecting to controller there is spark as usual.
Longshot said:Can someone point me to the info on how to replace the fuse in a max E? My motor fried it.