HuayuxinFeng Controller wuxing Trottle.. PAS Compat? LEDs?

I have an bike kit I bought on craigslist. Have it hooked up and running but last week it cut out and the "three leds" (red=low, yellow=medium, green = high) showed only red and green (i.e. skipping medium) Does anyone have an idea what that indicates? Turning on/off did not reset, but kept it off and fiddled with e-brakes and got it to work again don't know what fixed it. I wondered if it was a LCV, but tested when I got home and had 39.8v (36v nominal, full charge is 42) or could it be something with ebrakes?
The pack is something I built from recycled 18650s.. its 19ah 36v.. and I had maybe 12 miles on it when I had the issue. I was not pushing it hard on a hill or anything that might really draw down. (I'll eventually get my celllog on it but have to figure out what to do with 10s.. )

Also any idea if the above controller/throttle could be compatiable with a PAS-based sensor. My wife does not like thumb throttles after a crash, but I might get her on one that has a PAS.

They're not very reliable. I've had LEDs in them pack up before. It's nothing to worry about.

d8veh said:

They're not very reliable. I've had LEDs in them pack up before. It's nothing to worry about.

Click to expand...

Oh thanks, but I would not care about the LEDs... The issue is that when it is in the red/green state the bike does not work at all. So I wondered what it is trying to tell me.
Rode it into work and it seemed okay. But as I headed home, it happened again. I ended up opening up my plastic case with the controller in it and playing with various wires (including disconnecting the ebrake sensors). Definitely not the bike connectors. It was very wierd as moving it around some of the times it would reset, sometimes it went dark and then it would be okay (3 lights), but as soon as I put any load on the motor it would go back to 2, so maybe it is some LVC and the batteries drop enough that it cuts out. so I'll charge it up and see if it continues to happen. I did note that the controller was quite warm to the tough, but the temp outside is also 87F so maybe its normal.

It's a simple voltmeter. It works completely independently of anything else. Basically, the battery voltage is divided into three levels, each with an LED. When the voltage drops below the level, the LED goes out. There's a wire from the controller that's just a branch off the main battery wire. It goes through the throttle cable directly to the LED panel. The LED panel shares the throttle's ground. The middle LED is clearly faulty, but if the red one goes out, the connection to the battery has been lost, so check the integrity of the connections all the way from the batery to the controller and the connector/s between the throttle cable and the controller.

It's normal to see the green LED go out when you open the throttle. That's caused by voltage sag when the battery gives power.

After a long of diagnosis I believe the LED are more than just a volt-meter and that the red-green combination was indeed a sign of LVC. The battery was fine, and I had been reading the status from leads connected to the battery which is why I though it could not be LVC as the battery showed 40+v. Benching testing under load the pack was showing it only dropped 1v with a 10amp load. So I was very puzzled.

Started measuring things all over and eventually found between the battery and the controller it was showing 2.3MegaOhms (yes mega). If the fuse was if tapped it sometimes dropped to 1Kohms. As a result there was generally a massive voltage drop and limited current at the controller side but it would come and go as the cable flexed. The 40v at the battery side would show anywhere from 2v to 37v on the controller side. Seems that the fuse between battery and controller had partially-blown but it seems that in doing so some plastic had melted (or something corroded) and connectors for the fuse was forming a high-resivive, variable partial contact. If the fuse connector was bounced around it would sometimes work and other times show LVC.

So with the LED resolved (and bike working again , back to the other question. Is there any way to add a PAS sensor/module to this controller or do I need to buy a different controller to get PAS?