New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

anttipaa said:
Thank you eyebyesickle! Yes it would be wise to order that gear also. I read all pages of this thread but im not sure what kit to order. Should I buy 48v 500w? What is max battery voltage? I like the looks of xh18 display but does it fit to handlebar with left brake lever? Xh18 dont support throttle? Any reason to buy vlcd5?

120mm conversion kit costs 110e now. :wink:

The 48v500w is usually the 48v15a.

I only like the 48v18a because im OCD like that

All the NEW tsdz2 48v can go 14s. You need to check with your supplier...

Xh18 goes on the left handlebar, and you can order them with throttle, and headlight (if you're resourceful)... But no ebrake compatibility... Unless you DIY. Also, I like the action on the XH-18, you twist it a notch, and it springs back to original position. That is why I have it so far on the inside, I just hit it with my index and thumb for a quick twist... suppose you could cut a grip in half if you want to use it like that too...

There IS CLEARANCE to mount the XH-18 on the other side of the brake, it is designed like that. Probably would even look better. I just wanted mine far in on purpose. AWAY FROM THE GRIP. I roll around pretty rough sometimes =) and need to grip the grip, ya know?

Its not bad... The VLDC5 isnt either... Really just depends... Honestly in a lot of ways the VLDC5 is better, just its bigger, and also more vunerable to damage I think... was my reasoning... I like the small sleek screen, too....

Bottom line, the stuff is dirt cheap, get them both. Contact TS direct and get em to drop you one for CHEAP =)



BTW, I gave you my order form, but I guess that didn't mean he gave you MY price :wink: :lol:

Nah, I just talk big to throw the mind scramble =)
 

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Nice setup Eye! How fast can you go ?
Thanks to RT with the posting on Vcld5 parameter settings, I was able to max everything. But even with lowest gear and pedalling I could only go up to 25mph on 26" wheel- motor was still assisting upward to 35mph from the settings. I got a 27.5" wheel to test next see if it will go faster.

Mine is the 36v version. Waiting on the 48v 500w from Eyebyesickle to arrive sometimes next week to replace. Maybe i can get it up to 30mph+
 

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BeachRider2016 said:
Nice setup Eye! How fast can you go ?
Thanks to RT with the posting on Vcld5 parameter settings, I was able to max everything. But even with lowest gear and pedalling I could only go up to 25mph on 26" wheel- motor was still assisting upward to 35mph from the settings. I got a 27.5" wheel to test next see if it will go faster.

Mine is the 36v version. Waiting on the 48v 500w from Eyebyesickle to arrive sometimes next week to replace. Maybe i can get it up to 30mph+

Oh ya, you took the 48v15a unit, right?

That's a little more power than what you have now, and I believe it had the 42 on it. There is more to the level of assist however! I originally ordered mine with a 34t, I thought, best for the motor, more torque, etc. This turned out to not be accurate, due to the torque sensor not engaging as strong due to the lessensed resistance while running this gearing...

I have a 42/52 on the front, can get it over 30 (52tooth front, helps the torque sensor kick in from the get)... But still isn't easy. I tried my hardest and might have hit 40 on a slight downhill slope, but with the suspension snd the wind resistance.... Even keeping 30 is hard. 20-25mph is the sweet spot for this motor IMO. But it is super responsive and helps keep my nimble. Of course, I only use 3 or 6 pound batteries, so that helps!

I was practicing the wheelies today with the torque sensor. I was getting pretty good for never trying them before, then came up sideways hard on one, and had to tweak by back in midair to readjust my balance for the landing.

I mean... I should know better. I am in a strict beach swimming regime to lengthen my hamstring, but here I am tweaking my back trying wheelies :) I better chill and make a how to wiring for these things :)


Have a Happy 4th every one.

Have fun, be safe
 
Hi,


Im about to order a kit and its between this (350w) and a bafang 750w.
What I like about this kit is of course the price but also the torque feature. It seems more natural even though I've only ridden an ebike once, a crescent elder. It had a similar mode where it only assisted after applying force, it has has a 250w motor with 80Nm. So i use it just for reference.

EDIT: The credcesnt ha a Bafang Max Drive motor, anyone had the chance to try one out and the TDSZ2 to compare?

Anyway. Will this motor be enough to pull me (180lb) and at times, a bike trailer with 2 kids in it? (100lb)
I will install it on a Specialized hardtail and I will use it mainly to commute.

What are your thoughts?
 
BeachRider2016 said:
Nice setup Eye! How fast can you go ?
Thanks to RT with the posting on Vcld5 parameter settings, I was able to max everything. But even with lowest gear and pedalling I could only go up to 25mph on 26" wheel- motor was still assisting upward to 35mph from the settings. I got a 27.5" wheel to test next see if it will go faster.

Mine is the 36v version. Waiting on the 48v 500w from Eyebyesickle to arrive sometimes next week to replace. Maybe i can get it up to 30mph+

BeachRider,

I already went through this and, as a way to "pay it forward" to this group for all they help I had received, I posted the work. Check out these two threads:

First, the gearing: Use your favorite spreadsheet tool (Excel or "Calc" from OpenOffice will work) on the spreadsheet you find at the other end of this link - and read my comments there. You'll plug in YOUR tire diameter and enter the number of teeth of your rear gears, check to make sure your chainring is in the list (and if not, add it as directed), and it will tell you all you need to know about proposed gearing changes and the effect they'll have on your speed. Here's the thread on that:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=88719&p=1301788#p1301788

Then, there's a discussion on gearing changes that includes chainring issues, of which we have a few when talking about the TSDZ2. You'll find directions on making an adapter to run a second chainring without screwing up the existing chainring here:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=88711

...Look for the pretty pictures to help you find the accompanying directions / text.
 
johncon said:
Hi,

Im about to order a kit and its between this (350w) and a bafang 750w.
What I like about this kit is of course the price but also the torque feature. It seems more natural even though I've only ridden an ebike once, a crescent elder. It had a similar mode where it only assisted after applying force, it has has a 250w motor with 80Nm. So i use it just for reference.

EDIT: The credcesnt ha a Bafang Max Drive motor, anyone had the chance to try one out and the TDSZ2 to compare?

Anyway. Will this motor be enough to pull me (180lb) and at times, a bike trailer with 2 kids in it? (100lb)
I will install it on a Specialized hardtail and I will use it mainly to commute.

What are your thoughts?

I'm not familiar with the Crescent Elder, but we have had first-hand comparisons from Bafang owners here in this thread and I think the consensus is that the TSDZ2 is a much more sophisticated unit and results in a more natural biking experience, but they almost have different use-cases.

For you, I'd recommend the 48V 500W (15A is fine, don't necessarily need the 18A) simply because of your anticipated load of the 2 kids and all that rolling friction. I'm a big guy (6'3"), and the 48V, 500W, 15A unit put me over some hills I would not want to WALK up, but I rode them at over 10 MPH! WOW! The big concern, though, is have great low-end gearing. This is a key advantage of mid-drives - you have a transmission and can select gears appropriate to what you're pulling! You want that motor spinning fast when taking heavy loads... So... I highly recommend you check out the two links I just posted to someone else here, first about a gearing chart and secondly about how to change / augment your front chainring on the TSDZ2. It's not hard, it's just early days for the TSDZ2 (about 2 years on the market, and continuously improved) as compared with the Bafang (which is definitely over 7 years on the market, maybe a lot more, I'm not sure).

The price difference between the 350W and 500W is pretty darned small; I'd go with the 500!

Also note, I used only 200 watt hours or about 3.73 amp hours to go around 22 miles up and down some of the most bodacious hills the San Francisco Bay Area has to offer. I gotta tell ya, that's a very modest use of battery, but then, I DID keep it in the lower / lowest assist range(s) when I didn't need the extra power for the hills. You can read my pilot report here from just a few days ago where I describe it in detail.
 
With all the calculations, it still boils down to how strong your legs are and wheel size since this motor only assist and cuts out at certain rpm. For speed, I might put it on my 29 hardtail, she should be flying right along with those road bikers :roll:

Its raining on/off all day here at NC coast, i cant get any riding/testing done :cry: So much for a full holiday day off work!
But atleast the fireworks will be good at 9pm. Happy 4th everyone :mrgreen:
 
At what RPM does this motor stop applying power? The design seems ideal for someone who's accustomed to a pedal cycle, but only if it accommodates a healthy high cadence.
 
Chalo said:
At what RPM does this motor stop applying power? The design seems ideal for someone who's accustomed to a pedal cycle, but only if it accommodates a healthy high cadence.

As noted on the other side of both links I provided, it's 90 prpm. (...which, by the way, means the motor itself is doing 4000 RPM - through the reduction gears, one of which is the infamous blue nylon part that sometimes fails...)
 
Chalo said:
At what RPM does this motor stop applying power? The design seems ideal for someone who's accustomed to a pedal cycle, but only if it accommodates a healthy high cadence.

Most 90rpm, some new models 100rpm.



Whoooohooooo Happy 4th everyone!! 8)
 
Is it possible to run the 350w motor with a 48V battery? Reliably?

Have a 350w on its way but havent ordered a battery yet.
 
johncon said:
Is it possible to run the 350w motor with a 48V battery? Reliably?

Have a 350w on its way but havent ordered a battery yet.

I haven't seen ANY pilot reports on the 350W in this thread (or anywhere else) in a LONG time, but when I first found this thread back in the last week of May, I read EVERY ONE of the 350 or so posts contained in the then 16 pages of this thread and I kept notes about such things. Once I bought my unit, a 48V, "500W" TSDZ2, I cleaned up my notes and unfortunately deleted that information. So, unless one of the owners of such a unit reads your comment and replies, you'll have to read all that stuff to find out, or go with my possibly wrong recollection: I think it doesn't work with the 48V because it has a voltage cut off at about 52V and a 48V is often charged to 54.5v, above the cut-off level, so it works if partially charged but not if fully charged. ... In writing this, I'm becoming even more confident I've remembered this correctly....

If you are going to go through the now 25 pages of this thread, don't forget to use the search tool to help you find what you want more quickly! :D
 
Have some questions before ordering a kit for my Bullitt cargo.

How many milimeter more to the right was the chainline after installation than before the installation?

Is it possible to mount the lekkie bling ring direktly on the "spider"? to get a better chain line?

Hom long is the cables from the motor to the display and to the battery?

What connection is the cable from the motor to the battery. I hope bullett connector?

Are there any difference between the displays? What would you recommend and why?
 
matte2k said:
Have some questions before ordering a kit for my Bullitt cargo.

How many milimeter more to the right was the chainline after installation than before the installation?

Is it possible to mount the lekkie bling ring direktly on the "spider"? to get a better chain line?

Hom long is the cables from the motor to the display and to the battery?

What connection is the cable from the motor to the battery. I hope bullett connector?

Are there any difference between the displays? What would you recommend and why?

I have this motor mounted on a Bullitt.
Just so that you are warned, it does not fit out of the box.

However, it is a really nice motor though, and compliments the Alfine 8 or 11 IGH in a nice way if you have that. It's also very discrete once fitted to the Bullitt. I just hauled my entire family with beach stuff and all (a total of perhaps 250kg) all the way from the beach and 3 km long ride going up hill all the time. This was on a regular 250w EU-street legal motor, btw. It was slow at about 15-20 km/h, but the motor did fine without overheating.

To make it fit, you need to go at it with a dremel and trim off som bits of the motors casings. That's a 30 minute job if you've got the right bits, or perhaps half of that if you're sloppy.
The rear mounting point needs to be completely removed and grinded away off. If you're interested, I can give you some more details on where to cut and how to fit it.

There's also the issue about noise. Because the rear secureing plate thingie is removed the motor pushes towards that big main centre tube on the frame. The slight hum of the motor is amplified by the frame and the cargo box in front unless you get creative with adding rubber o-rings and the like where it touches the frame.
 
mscoot said:
matte2k said:
Have some questions before ordering a kit for my Bullitt cargo.

How many milimeter more to the right was the chainline after installation than before the installation?

Is it possible to mount the lekkie bling ring direktly on the "spider"? to get a better chain line?

Hom long is the cables from the motor to the display and to the battery?

What connection is the cable from the motor to the battery. I hope bullett connector?

Are there any difference between the displays? What would you recommend and why?

I have this motor mounted on a Bullitt.
Just so that you are warned, it does not fit out of the box.

However, it is a really nice motor though, and compliments the Alfine 8 or 11 IGH in a nice way if you have that. It's also very discrete once fitted to the Bullitt. I just hauled my entire family with beach stuff and all (a total of perhaps 250kg) all the way from the beach and 3 km long ride going up hill all the time. This was on a regular 250w EU-street legal motor, btw. It was slow at about 15-20 km/h, but the motor did fine without overheating.

To make it fit, you need to go at it with a dremel and trim off som bits of the motors casings. That's a 30 minute job if you've got the right bits, or perhaps half of that if you're sloppy.
The rear mounting point needs to be completely removed and grinded away off. If you're interested, I can give you some more details on where to cut and how to fit it.

There's also the issue about noise. Because the rear securing plate thingie is removed the motor pushes towards that big main centre tube on the frame. The slight hum of the motor is amplified by the frame and the cargo box in front unless you get creative with adding rubber o-rings and the like where it touches the frame.

Ok, so you're interested. Here goes:

Look at the two pictures. You have to remove the metal marked in red. Take care to not take too much, but just enough to clear the frame around the bottom bracket. Take away some, then test fit and repeat until your happy. To slide the motor in and out of the bottom bracket you need to unscrew the left side cover. Once the motor is seated properly, you can put the cover back on. Don't forget to blow away any metal debris that might have found it's way into the motor when the cover was off.

What's marked in blue are the three points where the motor touches the frame. You might want to put some sort of rubber o-ring or other soft material there to dampen the noise. (I forgot to add the second o-ring in the picture showing the front of motor). Especially the front part of the motor can be difficult to isolate properly from the frame. Put you could try without as well. It seems to me the newer versions of these motors are a fair bit more quiet.

To your other questions: the cables are more than long enough - no worries there. I think the small display is the nicest, Less cables, less fuss, but you loose the ability to charge your phone very, very slowly if that's your thing. With an IGH the chainline offset is negligible. I think it's off by about 1 cm. That doesn't bother me. Mine came with bullet connectors.
 

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matte2k said:
Are there any difference between the displays? What would you recommend and why?

I chose the VLCD-5 for several reasons:

1) It works with my handlebars where the alternative, the Xh-18, does not.

2) It's got a removable display so less chance of vandalism / theft.

3) It's got the possibility to run a throttle and brake cut-out switches (to quell the motor when you're using the throttle but braking).

4) It's got a bigger display, easier to see while distracted in traffic, etc.

5) It's got a headlight function (which I haven't figured out how to use yet), and I understand the Xh-18 does not.

6) It provides the optional use of a second set of controls, so you can get the benefit of having the controls out at the handlebar ends, if you want that, or, you can use the display itself - same controls in both places.

Let us know what you buy! :D
 
mscoot said:
mscoot said:
matte2k said:
Have some questions before ordering a kit for my Bullitt cargo.

How many milimeter more to the right was the chainline after installation than before the installation?

Is it possible to mount the lekkie bling ring direktly on the "spider"? to get a better chain line?

Hom long is the cables from the motor to the display and to the battery?

What connection is the cable from the motor to the battery. I hope bullett connector?

Are there any difference between the displays? What would you recommend and why?

I have this motor mounted on a Bullitt.
Just so that you are warned, it does not fit out of the box.

However, it is a really nice motor though, and compliments the Alfine 8 or 11 IGH in a nice way if you have that. It's also very discrete once fitted to the Bullitt. I just hauled my entire family with beach stuff and all (a total of perhaps 250kg) all the way from the beach and 3 km long ride going up hill all the time. This was on a regular 250w EU-street legal motor, btw. It was slow at about 15-20 km/h, but the motor did fine without overheating.

To make it fit, you need to go at it with a dremel and trim off som bits of the motors casings. That's a 30 minute job if you've got the right bits, or perhaps half of that if you're sloppy.
The rear mounting point needs to be completely removed and grinded away off. If you're interested, I can give you some more details on where to cut and how to fit it.

There's also the issue about noise. Because the rear securing plate thingie is removed the motor pushes towards that big main centre tube on the frame. The slight hum of the motor is amplified by the frame and the cargo box in front unless you get creative with adding rubber o-rings and the like where it touches the frame.

Ok, so you're interested. Here goes:

Look at the two pictures. You have to remove the metal marked in red. Take care to not take too much, but just enough to clear the frame around the bottom bracket. Take away some, then test fit and repeat until your happy. To slide the motor in and out of the bottom bracket you need to unscrew the left side cover. Once the motor is seated properly, you can put the cover back on. Don't forget to blow away any metal debris that might have found it's way into the motor when the cover was off.

What's marked in blue are the three points where the motor touches the frame. You might want to put some sort of rubber o-ring or other soft material there to dampen the noise. (I forgot to add the second o-ring in the picture showing the front of motor). Especially the front part of the motor can be difficult to isolate properly from the frame. Put you could try without as well. It seems to me the newer versions of these motors are a fair bit more quiet.

To your other questions: the cables are more than long enough - no worries there. I think the small display is the nicest, Less cables, less fuss, but you loose the ability to charge your phone very, very slowly if that's your thing. With an IGH the chainline offset is negligible. I think it's off by about 1 cm. That doesn't bother me. Mine came with bullet connectors.


Thanks a lot for all the details regarding the bullitt conversian.
I'll probably go with an 8s 11-34 rear casette. Will The 42t front chainwheel do with that setup you think?
 
RTIII said:
matte2k said:
Are there any difference between the displays? What would you recommend and why?

I chose the VLCD-5 for several reasons:

1) It works with my handlebars where the alternative, the Xh-18, does not.

5) It's got a headlight function (which I haven't figured out how to use yet), and I understand the Xh-18 does not.

Let us know what you buy! :D


1. Whats the diameter xh18 needs the handlebar to be?
5. Oh. I thought it was the other way around. The xh18 supported headlight (with some tweaks, i havent sern anyone managed)
 
matte2k said:
Thanks a lot for all the details regarding the bullitt conversian.
I'll probably go with an 8s 11-34 rear casette. Will The 42t front chainwheel do with that setup you think?

Here's your high and low gear:
http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=42&RZ=11,34&UF=2075&TF=86&SL=2.6&UN=KMH

I think that is a little bit too high, actually. The 350w and 250w are basically the same with the same peak power. On a cargo bike you'd want to gear it low.

You want to aim for just around 10 km/h in first gear if you want to get up those steep hills with a decent load in the box:
http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=38&RZ=11,38&UF=2075&TF=86&SL=2.6&UN=KMH

This is my setup:
http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=SA11&KB=42&RZ=22&UF=2075&TF=86&SL=2.6&UN=KMH
It's ok, but once in a while I wish for a lower gear. If I go lower though, the alfine 11 might not handle the torque that well.

And yes, you can add a headlight to the xh-18 as well. The cable for the speed sensor has the correct amount of power out where you'd connect a standard DC bike light. But if I where you, I'd rather get a dynamohub and wire the lights from there. That's much easier than trying to find the correct higo connectors and soldering up your own wiring loom. And the most important part: It's fit and forget and it lets you leave the lights on at all times.
Larry vs Harry in Copenhagen sold me a complete set of front and rear lights, a dynamo wheel with tyre and disc for the grand total of 1500 DKK over the counter. Good quality Busch&Muller light set and a proper alfine dynamohub laced to a high quality heavy duty rim. Try and source those parts seperately and you'll easily pay twice the price, maybe more.
 
Im bit confused about these options. So there is 48v 15a and 48v 18a versions? New version also supports higher cadence? So where should I buy this kit? Im going to buy xh18 display and if I dont like it order vlcd5 also. I live in EU but no problem ordering from china etc.. What would be best chainring? Rear gearing is 11-42 tooth and I only need top speed of 25kmh.
Thank you all for help!
 
anttipaa said:
Im bit confused about these options. So there is 48v 15a and 48v 18a versions? New version also supports higher cadence? So where should I buy this kit? Im going to buy xh18 display and if I dont like it order vlcd5 also. I live in EU but no problem ordering from china etc.. What would be best chainring? Rear gearing is 11-42 tooth and I only need top speed of 25kmh.
Thank you all for help!

Re: gearing, did you check the gear calculator in my previous post? An 11-42 cassette looks perfect to me.
Why bother with the 25 km/h speed limit when you're exceeding the max wattage anyway? You'll still be riding an unregistered, unlicensed moped.

Mind you, set the speed limit to 27,5 and you'll still be within the street legal limit as the legislation lets you go +/- 10%.
 
mscoot said:
anttipaa said:
Im bit confused about these options. So there is 48v 15a and 48v 18a versions? New version also supports higher cadence? So where should I buy this kit? Im going to buy xh18 display and if I dont like it order vlcd5 also. I live in EU but no problem ordering from china etc.. What would be best chainring? Rear gearing is 11-42 tooth and I only need top speed of 25kmh.
Thank you all for help!

Re: gearing, did you check the gear calculator in my previous post? An 11-42 cassette looks perfect to me.
Why bother with the 25 km/h speed limit when you're exceeding the max wattage anyway? You'll still be riding an unregistered, unlicensed moped.

Mind you, set the speed limit to 27,5 and you'll still be within the street legal limit as the legislation lets you go +/- 10%.

I have to check that calculator. Maybe just buy couple of chainrings to test. Here in Finland 1000w is legal if pay 70e/year insurance. I just have no need to go faster than 25-27kmh. My Adaptto max-e/cromotor build is made for that. :wink:
 
anttipaa said:
Im bit confused about these options. So there is 48v 15a and 48v 18a versions? New version also supports higher cadence? So where should I buy this kit? Im going to buy xh18 display and if I dont like it order vlcd5 also. I live in EU but no problem ordering from china etc.. What would be best chainring? Rear gearing is 11-42 tooth and I only need top speed of 25kmh.
Thank you all for help!

I've been paying a lot of attention and so far, the only person in the world of which I am aware whose even SEEN an 18A version is eyebyesickle, and he special ordered it directly, he says, if I recall what he said correctly. NONE of the vendors that I've found have it or even know about it. Look for eye's posts about it some, oh, two weeks ago for more information, or just search this thread for 18A.

When considering gearing, keep in mind that you want the motor operating at a pretty high RPM whenever you're giving it high loading. It's rated at 4000 RPM, it's top speed, which, due to internal gearing, equates to 90 Pedal RPM (again, only eye says "some have 100 PRPM" - nobody else has seen that so far as I know).

Also, you cannot just change chainrings quite so easily without considering the chainline. The TSDZ2 puts the chainring mount way outboard and to make it more palatable, they have a custom made gear that moves it inboard considerably. And you can't just mount another one adjacent to it because the thickness of your new ring will push the inner chainring into the motor itself - been there, done that. So, I made an adapter and told the world how to make it. See either of these threads for more:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=88943&p=1302048#p1302048

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=88711

And speaking of links, when I asked about gearing, nobody pointed me to a web site with a calculator for it, so I invented my own - you can find out about it here - and my work includes knowledge of the 90 P-RPM issue so you get numbers related to that, since it's important for us with the TSDZ2. To wit:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=88719&p=1301788#p1301788

Finally, we have it reported here, by eye, and larsottar, the guy who started this thread in April of last year, that the wiring loom for the VLCD-5 has more wires in it going up to the user's control, so I think you can convert from the VLCD-5 to the Xh-18, but not the other way around. IDK of anyone who has done it and I've read this whole thread! User hurzhurz, on page 8 of this thread gives us the wiring colors and their functions in the loom, and just a few days ago eye gave us a PDF with the logical lay out of the wiring in Chinese - but nobody here can read it, apparently.

I think it's nuts they don't publish the diameter range the Xh-18 will work for - someone who owns one needs to report to us on it - like eye, for example! :)
 
After following this thread ordered and got the 500W 48V18A (just pedal assist) from China/Alibaba a couple of weeks ago with the xh18 display. I LOVE IT, it feels like normal cycling with wind on my back, very natural. Super easy to install and a pleasure to ride. I coupled it with a massive 13s9pm Sanyo ncr18650ga 3450msh10A 3c cells.

Later I will add a second lighter city battery pack 13s?p with cheaper Panasonic ncr 18650B max 6.5A, so probably I will go with 3p (or 4p)

The display supports turning on/off the head lights, but I still need to figure out how to connect the lights. The Higo cable that comes to the front is a Y cable. One end goes to the xh18, the other front Higo end is unconnected, no clue which use it has (any ideas?)

Got it with a front 42T, I can reach 40km/h without much effort. But a faster front gear would be even better. I have 9 back gears, and I can climb the steepest slope with the slowest gear like a king. Looking forward to add a faster front gear in parallel. Hopefully the front derailleur will work with this set up (all shimano xt).

Another thing I need to figure out is how to add a wh meter (pity xh18 does not show V/A/W/WH).

TODO sum up
-decide new battery pack specs and build it.
-faster front gear
-let xh18 turn on/off lights
-find out what the split Y cable is used for
-add wh meter / measure consumption/autonomy
-take some pics/videos
-add a retractile (probably from pet store) bungee to pull other riders (to be grabbed by hand and released any time)
-other?

It seems I am the first one with such motor, so post your questions, I'll be glad to answer.
 
Patoruzu said:
...It seems I am the first one with such motor, so post your questions, I'll be glad to answer.
OK, I'll go first! :p

>Where and how much was this factory (?) 18A version of this motor and is it good to 100 RPM cadence ?
>Does the xh18 allow a high MPH top speed, or did you have to change wheel diameter to 'trick' the speedo display?
>Where and how much was your B/A battery Pack !?! (I too want a small light weight and the B/A pack,, someday.)
>Did the motor and pack come with matching connectors?

Back in June 27 in this thread I posted a kWh - power meter that I plan to use when I want to check on the battery pack.
It wasn't much thru amazon and the XT90-S connectors will handle way more power than we can use with this drive.

Bungee? For towing? IDK... If either of you let go while it's stretched.....
Maybe a short section in the middle made of bungee ... 8)
 
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