so even the ol' warp 9s can do some serious gearbox twistn' then eh?kiwiev wrote:Well I finally hopefully sorted out the Hilux its back on the road, problem now is the gearbox is moved to the drivers side from the torque. The mount is only in the middle at the back, and is twisting from the front when I floor it.
I dont know if there are any upgrades for Toyota 5 speed gearbox mounts?
So I think know why I blew my primary controller, it was from the bearing encoder in the motor failure this could be due to 1100amps and high rpm lots of EMF. Which a magnetic bearing encoder would not like. To give HPEV credit they gave me a new controller half price and a free optical encoder to bolt on the front, I was out of warranty.
So it cost me
1 x controller
2 x fuses I blew one seeing that was the problem
2 x contactors tgey welded when the fuse blew
1 x optical disc I bent the first one installing.
Still its great to have back on the road doing solar power free miles
sorry i missed thatkiwiev wrote:I blew my warp 9 3 years ago they dont like reving for very long lol,
Thanks for the kinds words guys.
The duel HPEV AC-35 its only 190 ft lb but twice what the ICE motor put out not sure how I'm going to stop itridethelightning wrote:sorry i missed thatkiwiev wrote:I blew my warp 9 3 years ago they dont like reving for very long lol,
Thanks for the kinds words guys.
so which gearbox mount twisting beast was the culprit?
According to the curtis controller hour glass read outs I can get 550amps per controller and min voltage 138 volts this is with the pack hot off the charge at 168 volts. 170 volt controllers will fault.Jayls5 wrote:Could you tell me what your current nominal voltage is and how much it sags under full ~1000A load? Thanks!
One day I would like to up grade the cells and that would be great idea for the solar. The Hilux is 2wd and has a lsd diff.Cowardlyduck wrote:Looking great mate!
You could always upgrade the cells in your cars/bikes and use the used cells in your solar setup for some extra off-grid capacity.
I can't recall, does the Hilux have a lockable center diff that you retained? How does the 4WD system go with the electric motor pushing it along?
That's a great idea, my pack only sags to 146 volts in the summer.Jayls5 wrote:So correct me if I'm wrong here. You're running 48S1P 160A Winston LiFePO4 cells.
Going uphill you've got sag to 132v pack voltage, which equates to 2.75v per cell under max load. Total pack weight, 282 kg (620 lb) for ~24.5 kWh at 100% DOD.
If you were to swap to Tesla modules, you could do 7S2P (modules), (42S148P cell level). You would charge to the same voltage for a nice safe ~80% capacity (4v per cell) charge. Pack weight would increase to 350 kg (770 lb) for a conservative estimate of 50 kWh usable even with undercharging.
Tesla modules at 1100A discharge would be 2.36 C. Your voltage sag would be far less, allowing higher peak power through the vast majority of the discharge curve, which I think would more than make up for the slight increase in weight. Basically... more than double the range and faster by just changing the cells. I know it's an expensive investment, but if you could purchase a salvaged base model Model S, you could yank them from that.
Just throwing it out there.
I'm not sure what you mean by "one more cell" being enough. For a fast charger? Of what?kiwiev wrote:That's a great idea, my pack only sags to 146 volts in the summer.
We don't get many Tesla wrecks down in Australia yet the odd one or too but we have our names down, I could turn my Winston pack into a fast charger do you know if one more cell would be enough?
I Know mate but 1500mm x 1850mm isn't solar panel friendly lol unless you know off some??Cowardlyduck wrote:Love the tray mate!
You know what I see when I see a large flat sky facing surface like that....the perfect place for a whooping big solar panel.
You should totally load up the tray (and roof for that matter) with solar panels for some extra juice. Yeah, it won't be much, I know from first hand experience, but it would give you maybe 5% extra range per day, plus reduce the charging load on your off-grid setup. It would also allow you to just leave it parked outside when not in use and over the course of a 2-3 weeks would charge from empty to full....just like my recumbent.
As long as you're using a charge controller to limit the amps being fed between the two packs, I wouldn't see a problem with it. It would be the worst idea ever if you didn't use a charge controller though, because the only thing that would dictate the charge rate would be the voltage differential and the resistance between the two packs. It would surely exceed the continuous charge rate if you had a dead pack on one side and a full on the other.kiwiev wrote:If I connected up 49 s 1 p and used a solar controller i can get and program to charge to say 170 volts could I directly plug that into the Tesla pack and dump 20 kwh into it? I can find any sort of charge controller for that on the web.
I used the 15W semi flexible panel from Jaycar on my recumbent. There is a 100W version:kiwiev wrote:I Know mate but 1500mm x 1850mm isn't solar panel friendly lol unless you know off some??