Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

John, don't forget about the nuts on the inside of the frame. Your lipo pack picture looks like it will rub. I'd do something solid inside to keep them away from those nuts (like plywood or thick hard plastic).
 
I have asked quite a lot of people for fastener dimensions with no answers, but have done lots of my own quasi calculations that I hope will help others in the same boat as me.
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This pic shows that I should only have two spots where the cage nuts will be in the way.

grains of salt to be taken since I only depend on info I can get.

The 20ah packs are 60mm wide the space between cage nuts should be 62mm. That's calculated at 7mm per side for the cage nut.

These 12ah packs could either turned sideways twice if they all fit with one side being 55mm or 1 cm spaced where they are or just those two batteries lifted above the nuts. There should still be enough clearance for the top battery.

The 12ah packs are 70mm so it will be tight with the last 6mm for the wire bulge.

There are many combinations offered by multistars because there are so many AH choices to paralel say 100v 12ah with 100v 10ah or 16ah with 10 etc... Personally I like homogenous cell type to make sure they are more the same discharge and capacity not trusting hk....

Cage nut research of mine own I guess are these M5 variety and this is what I could find on google.

No questions that the battery must be secured and edges / corners etc protected inside....
 

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Just installed the footpeg option from Qulbix today and went for a ride.

I really like the footpegs, especially since I never pedal the bike anyway. Offroad riding is much better, it seems like I have more control of the bike, even things like making tight turns. Just everything seems easier to do, much better for aggressive offroad riding.

It is really nice not having to deal with the chain and rear derailleur! I just cracked and destroyed my Zee derailleur the last time I took my bike out after hitting it on something. It also seems without the chain the rear suspension works better, which makes sense since the derailleur and chain are adding extra unsprung weight to the rear.

Impacting things or jumping is less stressful on your knees, hopping over a large log is much easier. Just jump off your bed with your legs spread apart like they are on pedals, much more stressful on your knees than having them together.

Overall, just a better riding experience. This is the reason why all motorbikes use footpegs because pedals suck, unless you actually don't have a motor.

Of course pedals may make your electric bike legal, so this is of course the big issue with footpegs.

The footpegs weigh in at 630 grams.




 
Hi John,

Sorry for late answer.

I ended up with 20s 14p samsung 30Q cells pack.

If you want to use the same cell layout, don't use the one in the picture because there is a mistake in it :)
If you want i can send you the good layout.

Bike is up and runnin and did 2 test off road of +- 60Km.
I think a range of 120Km off road is possible with this pack.

I have a qs205 and Max-e, set to 150A batt and 350A fase.

Shoot if you have more questions

Steven
 
Hi Offroader,

Yes i think the foot pegs are the best way to drive this bike, but for me i can't do that because i have to drive the bike sometimes on the road so has to look street legal.
Only think that's not going well with my build is the chain and tensioner. Got so tired of this i now drive the bike without chain :)
 
Offroader said:
It is really nice not having to deal with the chain and rear derailleur!
both of you have no idea what I have gone through running 4kw through one.....

I have done a ton of customisations to run on a bike that eventually broke so my drivetrain was stronger than my frame....

if you can't work out your chain and derailleur on a high powered mid drive you gona be doing lots of walkin.

I designed this and Sketch cnc'd it for me

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Offroader said:
Just installed the footpeg option from Qulbix today and went for a ride.

I really like the footpegs, especially since I never pedal the bike anyway. Offroad riding is much better, it seems like I have more control of the bike, even things like making tight turns. Just everything seems easier to do, much better for aggressive offroad riding.

It is really nice not having to deal with the chain and rear derailleur! I just cracked and destroyed my Zee derailleur the last time I took my bike out after hitting it on something. It also seems without the chain the rear suspension works better, which makes sense since the derailleur and chain are adding extra unsprung weight to the rear.

Impacting things or jumping is less stressful on your knees, hopping over a large log is much easier. Just jump off your bed with your legs spread apart like they are on pedals, much more stressful on your knees than having them together.

Overall, just a better riding experience. This is the reason why all motorbikes use footpegs because pedals suck, unless you actually don't have a motor.

Of course pedals may make your electric bike legal, so this is of course the big issue with footpegs.

The footpegs weigh in at 630 grams.





This is why I am currently running 125mm crank arms. They are almost like foot pegs, but not quite. I rode a Hurricane back in May and loved the moto seat and footpegs, I see why you like it.
 
smurphy said:
Hi John,

Sorry for late answer.

I ended up with 20s 14p samsung 30Q cells pack.

If you want to use the same cell layout, don't use the one in the picture because there is a mistake in it :)
If you want i can send you the good layout.

Bike is up and runnin and did 2 test off road of +- 60Km.
I think a range of 120Km off road is possible with this pack.

I have a qs205 and Max-e, set to 150A batt and 350A fase.

Shoot if you have more questions

Steven

Hey Steven, could you share the corrected layout? I'm kindness of curious as I never got around to welding the layout I posted a while back.
 
Hi Mamma,

Sure man.

It's 20S 14P
 

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smurphy said:
Hi Offroader,

Yes i think the foot pegs are the best way to drive this bike, but for me i can't do that because i have to drive the bike sometimes on the road so has to look street legal.
Only think that's not going well with my build is the chain and tensioner. Got so tired of this i now drive the bike without chain :)

I followed Offroader's chain, derailleur set up and never have problem again like chain drop, chain growth or hitting anything even I have long rear travel. you might take a look for reference.
 
Yeah to eliminate chain drop you need the zee derailleur which has a clutch in it. Also a wide-narrow chain ring. I never had chain drop issues after the update.

But having no chain and derailleur is always best.
 
Can you post some pictures of the chain setup Offroader ?

Thanks
 
smurphy said:
Can you post some pictures of the chain setup Offroader ?

Thanks

Yes I can do that, will have to find those pics and post them. because photobucket decided not to 3rd party host pics anymore, all the pics I have posted in the past do not show up anymore or I would just send you a link to that page.

Here is a pic of my bike with the Qulbix footpegs, I'll repost the other ones later.
 

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Rix said:
I like how thats done using the existing Bottom bracket.

Yes, I like that better also. I can swap between pedals & footpegs fast.

Had the bike out today for a 2nd ride, the foot pegs are by far better than pedals in every way. They make everything easier. Doing tricks with the bike is also way easier.
 
Thanks Offroader. Your bike is a masterpiece.

Can't even imagine what would happen if i had your setup. pedals help me remind i'm on a bicycle with 15Kw of power :)

Did you buy just the frame or a rolling chassis ?

Just asking because now, when you buy a frame they dont send you the Q76R decal stickerset. Mine is just white.
 
smurphy said:
Thanks Offroader. Your bike is a masterpiece.

Can't even imagine what would happen if i had your setup. pedals help me remind i'm on a bicycle with 15Kw of power :)

Did you buy just the frame or a rolling chassis ?

Just asking because now, when you buy a frame they dont send you the Q76R decal stickerset. Mine is just white.

Thanks, I really tried to make the most advanced ebike in the world, no joking either. I did a ton of research into all the best components and think I did a resonable job. It has some really advanced stuff like custom fan cooling, huge pack in such a small frame. I also had a couple of builds before this to learn about all build problems.
I built this to be maintenance free as possible as I was tired of the constant repairs of my old builds. I really beat my bikes hard on the trails, so it is amazing how my Q76R holds up. I use stuff like Nord Lock washers in many places so the bolts don't constantly come loose. All electrical connections are soldered really well then I used hot glue to make them extra secure. The wheel builds are perfect and this gave me huge trouble in the past. Bascially, all these little things I learned from my previous builds that constantly gave me problems was fixed in this build so that I would have no breakdowns.

I updated the post about the chain system. This was on my raptor 165, but I used the same stuff, just moved it over to my Q76R. If you want a maintenance free chain system and one where the chain will never come loose and is really quiet, I would use those components. The one thing you may want to try is a Shimano freewheel and not a Dicta. Dicta are noisy and they break really fast.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=939201#p939201

I bought one of these recently, but have not installed it.
http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-DX-Single-Speed-Freewheel
 
Thanks for the info Offroader.

This is what i came up with.
So far so good.
It looks ugly, but it works.
 

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I read about that shimano Alfine. if it works that is great, especially if everything is silent and you get no drop chains.

The Zee derailleur has a clutch system. From what I understand this is to stop the "chain slap". It actually works well because my chain became completely silent after installing the Zee. However, I have not used the Alfine so I can't comment on how well that works.

Got this from another post on the internet but this may explain it easily.

In a regular "Rear Derailleur" RD, the spring in that lower arm is all that is keeping the lower part of the chain tensioned. When you go over bumps, rocks etc, the weight of your bouncing chain pulls the spring loaded arm forwards creating slack and "chain slap". Chain slap is when your RD arm and chain are bouncing enough for the chain to slap the chainstay bracket. This is obnoxious. Also when your chain is loose like that, it is easier for it to bounce off of your chain rings and make your day a living hell.
A clutch RD eliminates the bounce. Take the same diagram as above with a Clutch RD. If you pushed the RD up and forwards, it wouldnt move. It is held in place by a small piece that prevents it from moving forward. This keeps your chain properly tensioned, preventing the chain slap and bounce.
This proper chain tension will make riding over rocky, bumpy terrain tolerable. No distracting chain slap, no dropped chains, and no chain suck.
Suck it non-clutch rear derailleurs.
 
Oke, got it. Thanks

Good tip for my next Q76R build :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-j_F6m7H0Q
 
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3 will be turned sideways inside the lips and 5 will be in the centre hole.
These bricks are a few mm thicker than advertised and I must admit I really wish the wiring wasn't 10awg to, both make this thicker than I was expecting and have to push down on the bulge more than I really want. All else it fits...

Will have to also keep this these side covers away from direct sun as the main part won't have any gap.... Hopefully the covers might create a bit of heat sink affect for riding in shade....

Should have gone the 20ah in hindsight.
 
I would run a temporary thermometer in the center of the pack to see just how hot it is getting. My 18650 pack will get as high as 50-55C sometimes towards the end of my ride in the summer, especially if I just charged the pack.

most likely those packs won't get nearly as hot as my pack and should stay a lot cooler being lipo.

10 gauge wires are ridiculous for our purposes. I once cut off the 10 gauge wires on lipo packs I had and soldered on much smaller 14 or 16 gauge wries and smaller connectors. Gives more room and makes it much easier to connect and disconnect the packs.

What is the nominal voltage and amp hour of that pack?
 
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