Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Longshot]

Can someone point me to the info on how to replace the fuse in a max E? My motor fried it.

There is no fuse in the controller but if you refer at the HALLS error after a short between phase and halls wires here is my solution:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... r#p1277234

Thank you, im getting up to speed. My R113 has continuity. All my FETS are fine. Everything seems to work accept I have no power to the motor. I think I will attemp to replace it myself.

[eflyersteve]

So I picked up a used Mini-e recently. The hall sensor plug was chopped off and the wires were bundled inside some heatshrink. Unfortunately most of those wires were still stripped bare and shorting together. I didn't power it on this way but was told that this was cut off and ran on a sensorless motor. I pulled my old controller and CA3 off my bike (had just ridden it the day before), installed my hall sensor plugs, connected everything and that is when the trouble begins.

I just can't get it to run in anything but sensorless mode. I played with various settings, swapped phase wires and hall signal wires but auto-detect just gives a Hall e1 error. I notice in the health monitor that the hall logic will show a change with halls 1 and 3 but never hall 2. However when spinning the motor, it will register hall 1,2,3 (depending on how I set the hall angles up). I checked the middle hall with a meter and was not seeing anything on it when rotating the wheel. So based on this, I installed new hall sensors in the hub today and I am getting the same results. Considering this motor was running fine before the controller swap and the hall logic issue above, I am pretty sure it is the controller. So, my question for the experts is - where to start?

I get around 4.5v on the hall supply (red and black) so the halls are getting their power. I am wondering if there is a pull-up resistor on that center hall channel in the controller that has gone bad? Or worse?

Thoughts on what to check, where to look, etc? Again, I am nearly 100% certain the motor is fine (it has low run time and never hot, now has new halls in it, etc) and the shorted controller wiring is troubling. Thanks in advance for any help!

[eflyersteve]

Searching some more and I came across this previous post:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... er#p955382

I'm hoping that my issue is similar and it is just a wiring issue. I also believe that the three resistors that are mentioned in this thread are the pull-up resistors so at least I know where to start looking. I knew I should have brought the controller with me to work today.

[eflyersteve]

I may be the worlds biggest idiot......well at least in the running. I post this is a lesson to those who might be in the same situation as I found myself in. My initial thoughts were to just delete my two previous posts, but who learns from my mistakes if I do that.

I haven't confirmed this yet, but while the hall wires from the mating connector cable supplied with the Adaptto (which I have never had) use standard Yellow, Blue and Green colors for the halls, the cable that enters the controller uses Yellow, Orange and Green. Yes there is a blue wire in the adaptto hall cable, but is not connected to anything within the mini-e controller.

Fingers crossed that using all the actual hall wires will solve my problem.

[Craigh85]

Can anyone help with this one? MAX E Halls error issue. Read through the thread cant see anything the same.

Took the bike out for a ride, all went well. Got home charged bike, cleaned etc when suddenly I got a halls error on display (no issues during the ride).
After a quick look over the wiring I noticed one of the Rear disc bolts had come loose and chaffed into x2 phase wires. Removed the motor inspected wiring. Damage was only on two phase wires, replaced phase wires and rebuild all was well for about 10mins then halls message again.

Tested controller supply to halls that's was ok 4.5v , checked halls all switching 0v - 4.2v when rotated, So that kind of rules out the common resistor problem I've read about on here where the controllers 5v hall supply cuts off.
Tried auto detect, wont go through it( hall error 1) and system reset made no difference either.

You can position the wheel in certain places where the "halls" message clears and normal screen returns but as soon as you throttle or roll the bike the Error returns.
The motor does spin in sensor less mode but its not the smoothest. The health monitor page shows the halls skipping several ie H1 , H2 ... H4 , H6

I suspected being an intermittent fault it must be a damaged wire i'd missed, so remove and strip motor down again and still looks / tests ok. Hooked the motor up to my Mini E, No hall problems what so ever. Auto detect ran through perfect. Baffled..

Problem must be in the MAX E, is there phase to phase short protection? Why has it affected the halls side? I have a new MXUS I could hook up to max e I suppose see what happens.

Craig

[bigbore]

Can anyone help with this one? MAX E Halls error issue. Read through the thread cant see anything the same.

Took the bike out for a ride, all went well. Got home charged bike, cleaned etc when suddenly I got a halls error on display (no issues during the ride).
After a quick look over the wiring I noticed one of the Rear disc bolts had come loose and chaffed into x2 phase wires. Removed the motor inspected wiring. Damage was only on two phase wires, replaced phase wires and rebuild all was well for about 10mins then halls message again.

Tested controller supply to halls that's was ok 4.5v , checked halls all switching 0v - 4.2v when rotated, So that kind of rules out the common resistor problem I've read about on here where the controllers 5v hall supply cuts off.
Tried auto detect, wont go through it( hall error 1) and system reset made no difference either.

You can position the wheel in certain places where the "halls" message clears and normal screen returns but as soon as you throttle or roll the bike the Error returns.
The motor does spin in sensor less mode but its not the smoothest. The health monitor page shows the halls skipping several ie H1 , H2 ... H4 , H6

I suspected being an intermittent fault it must be a damaged wire i'd missed, so remove and strip motor down again and still looks / tests ok. Hooked the motor up to my Mini E, No hall problems what so ever. Auto detect ran through perfect. Baffled..

Problem must be in the MAX E, is there phase to phase short protection? Why has it affected the halls side? I have a new MXUS I could hook up to max e I suppose see what happens.

Craig

Did you check the R113 resistance value with a multimeter? There is a transparent varnish to be removed to make good contact with the probes.

[Craigh85]

I've not checked the resistor value yet. Didn't see much point as the halls still had a supply voltage at the connector. Unless it's on its way out and is verging out of spec.
Weirdly today I went out and powered up the bike. The fault has gone. Nothing was changed. No idea why.
Intermittent fault somewhere. Will recheck connections and wiring.

[Hwang]

(old)Max-e seems dead(display was working almost constantly for a year and today it is dead, no backlit and no reaction to throttle. Was fine yesterday).
Quick question: How do i check what is the problem?? When i plug 72v into it nothing happens and when i try to measure any voltage at display connector there is 0v.
Does bms get power when display is not powered?
Does halls get 5v when display is not powered?
My controller did not have on-off switch. I did not make mine either.

I recon that people were sending adaptto to russia and waiting 3 months for repair. Is it still the same?

Any help will be appreciated.

may be... or not~
I'm waiting last email... 2weeks .... ( arrive 1 month ago )

[atomek1000]

Thanks for sharing Hwang! I've got instruction from Oleg how to send controller for repair, very strict rules

Mine looks better but i still not found issue. There was no water ingress in display nor controller. Mystery

[snejky]

Hi. Can someone share ideal motor settings for MXUS 3K V3 3T? Autodetection failed, motor runs ok, but i need to be sure.

thank you!

[smurphy]

It's not normal that autodetect fails.
Best way is to start with 2 or 3 times autodetect that finalize without errors. After that you can finetune.

[atomek1000]

Dont do autodetect at all. For my mxus it was totally wrong.
There are instructions how to do it manually

[snejky]

It's not normal that autodetect fails.
Best way is to start with 2 or 3 times autodetect that finalize without errors. After that you can finetune.

Maybe, but with my 2 builds(Max-E+QS205 before and now MXUS 3k+Midi-E) detection newer works correctly(hard wheel shutter to both dirrections after few minutes on detection). After fine tune and some community settings help QS205 works like charm 2 years. So i searching same informations for my MXUS 3k v3 3T.

[snejky]

Dont do autodetect at all. For my mxus it was totally wrong.
There are instructions how to do it manually

Thanks. After few tests i saw overheating problems. So i must do complete manual procedure.

[Longshot]

Hey, im having a go at a variable brake sensor and I would like to know if I can power the brake sensor with the 4.75-5v thats going to throttle? Im using a magura so I have a resistor in my throttle wires. It seems like a conflict of interest but if its just sucking 12ma off, its in a convenient place and i can save my other oower options for other things...

Thanks!

[Cowardlyduck]

Not sure if the resistor would make a difference, but you can definitely power a lot of sensors off the throttle +4.5V. I currently have 2 x variable hall sensors + magnets hooked up to my brake levers, a push button switch, and a left handed throttle all hooked up to the +4.5V.
It's a bit over-kill I know, but I like having options when it comes to stopping.

Cheers

[smurphy]

I think you can skip the resistor if u use Magura in combination with variable regen.

[Longshot]

I think you can skip the resistor if u use Magura in combination with variable regen.

Why yes, thats what I want to do. I realize that, yes, i can power stuff off it but will the controller cut power to that throttle -+4.8v at any time? There is an option to cut power to the throttle during regen, for example, you wouldnt want to turn that on, right? Any other kind of emergency situation where the controller might cut power to the throttle lead?

[smurphy]

Yes it will. Power is cut when you break or regen.

[Longshot]

Yes it will. Power is cut when you break or regen.

Power is cut to the motor or power is cut to the 5v throttle lead that isually goes to power a halls throttle. Anyways, i guess im going to test it and find out.

[Longshot]

BTW , Oleg says that reflashing the firmware will reset your original shunt value

[smurphy]

To the motor.

[lennovich]

Hello,

Anyone a idea...when i set my charge setting on, the bike stops with power after the first twist of the trottle and goes in "charge" mode on the screen. When the setting is off no problem.

[litespeed]

So I procrastinated and didn't get the resister for my Domino throttle then I lost the info. I've searched and came up with using a 100 ohms, 1000 ohms, 500 ohms and 560 ohms! Some reported using nothing.......So which is it? Because I'm at a loss.

Thanks for the help.

Tom

[Craigh85]

So I procrastinated and didn't get the resister for my Domino throttle then I lost the info. I've searched and came up with using a 100 ohms, 1000 ohms, 500 ohms and 560 ohms! Some reported using nothing.......So which is it? Because I'm at a loss.

Thanks for the help.

Tom

I had problems with my max e and domino throttle. Tried the 100ohm resistor but made no difference to mine. In the end a second cheap left hand hall throttle setup for variable regen fixed the issue.

Craig