RTIII
1 kW
James Broadhurst said:
My bet is you can cure the squeak with a little talk talc powder or some such!
It's rubbing somewhere...
New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
My bet is you can cure the squeak with a little talk talc powder or some such!
It's rubbing somewhere...RTIII
1 kW
mingonn said:
I always ratchet it up from zero or one when taking off, every time, and never leave it on a high assist level like that, especially when going slower than about 10 mph.
mingonn said:
I'm curious about the clicking... ...As for the hill, how fast were you going when you started the hill? I try and keep it up over 7 mph, even on the steepest hill... Yes, gearing matters, but I'd be in a low gear too.
As an overall comment, it's the overall gearing that matters; for any given identical ratio implemented with different numbers of teeth, front to rear, the only difference between the two implementations is the loading per tooth, front v rear, and not the mechanical advantage, which is defined by the overall ratio. This is where that chart I created can come in handy because it includes telling you the ratios for any given front / rear gear pair! 8)
tomjasz
1 GW
Edited for review. Hoping for a solution.
James Broadhurst
100 W
After yesterday's disappointment I went for a 20 mile run today. I first tightened by an eighth turn the attachment 8mm bolt and checked all the others. Anyway, back home I promptly fell asleep with a contented smile. The grandchildren kept asking grandma' what's up with the (usually grumpy) old git?Daytriker said:
Well, daytriker you were absolutely correct. A lovely run without a single squeak. Fixed.
As to why it's taken 24 hours to settle in, I don't know. Not being a believer in luck, there's no doubt in my mind that it's come from the work to correct the fit of the motor. The whole feel of the motor is tighter, taut.
When I first put this in I wasn't too careful; I wasn't convinced this was a well designed piece of engineering. Just get it in. I stand corrected.
sendler2112
100 kW
Very helpful. Now I understand how the torque of the assembly will keep it tight against the down tube in that alternate type of installation for those that can't mount it under the chain stays as for a dual suspension bike. What size chain ring is that? It also seems to extend larger than the motor. The photos of the kit make the motor look like it protrudes beyond the supplied chain ring to be smashed over every log when trail riding. But your chain ring looks large enough to protect it regardless of the mounting angle.
Thanks for the video squee22 it will come in handy when I do my Blue Gear swap. One thing to ask - removal of the motor assembly from the gear drive was very difficult & tight when I did mine. I ended up having to tap it out with a hammer & punch around the rim of the motor cover. Unfortunately you skipped that part in your video so I am curious, did your motor just lift out by hand?
To get the motor out you need to give it a little rattle. I didn't need to use a hammer though for any of this. When the gears mesh and the motor torques the whole assembly tightens up and you need to rotate it a bit when you pull it out to loosen everything up again.
tomjasz
1 GW
Tried it, very easy here. So many good features... I'm riding it all week regardless of the setup.Daytriker said:
"Nancy" tongsheng tells me I'm just not understanding how to enter setup, yet Richard is saying he has the same issue...
Got the OK from PswPower to open it up. Mine came apart pretty easily, nothing too complex. Little wiggle and the motor came out easy enough too.
Blue gear stripped a tooth as expected and PswPower have offered a replacement, so far they have been very helpful. I have asked for the metal one which should sort this out, postage is the killer though, not bad if you don't mind waiting but DHL is US$21.
Happy to live with a bit more noise in exchange for robustness and reliability. I expect you can get quite good life out of the plastic gear if you baby it but a slightly softer start built in for level 3 and 4 would achieve the same without having to stuff around with power levels and gear shifts. Should be an easy software tweak for the manufacturers.
I think I will splurge on a off the shelf dualie eMtb next year, I tried my mates '17 Specialized Turbo Levo and was blown away with the smoothness of the drive and the handling. The 2018 model sounds even better and there are lots more being released.
Blue gear stripped a tooth as expected and PswPower have offered a replacement, so far they have been very helpful. I have asked for the metal one which should sort this out, postage is the killer though, not bad if you don't mind waiting but DHL is US$21.
Happy to live with a bit more noise in exchange for robustness and reliability. I expect you can get quite good life out of the plastic gear if you baby it but a slightly softer start built in for level 3 and 4 would achieve the same without having to stuff around with power levels and gear shifts. Should be an easy software tweak for the manufacturers.
I think I will splurge on a off the shelf dualie eMtb next year, I tried my mates '17 Specialized Turbo Levo and was blown away with the smoothness of the drive and the handling. The 2018 model sounds even better and there are lots more being released.
Attachments
RTIII
1 kW
sendler2112 said:
The motor housing's lower circumference just about exactly matches the distance from bottom-bracket center to the edge of a 52T, by the way. Also, there's a firm in Italy who makes a protective cover for the motor assembly for those of you who like to ride your bottom bracket along logs and other debris.
Further, 52T combined with an 11 in back gets you about as fast a ride as you could want on a bicycle...
sendler2112
100 kW
A 29er would need a dual 32/ 44 and 13-34 for trail riding.
RTIII
1 kW
sendler2112 said:
Electrification tends to reduce the number of lower gears "required" - though smart pedalers plan for riding unassisted, of course.
sendler2112
100 kW
32/ 44 did get rid of the 22 granny gear. It is very hilly, muddy, rooty here.
RTIII
1 kW
Yes, I am now officially the world's fastest bicyclist! Really! I've got proof! :lol:
At Eye's suggestion, today I pulled the speed sensor off my older (first week of June, 2017) 15A system and installed it on the 18A TSDZ2 and it cured the issue - I mean it slowed me down to sub-light speed... Eye thinks it's the firmware version...
I've got proof! :lol: At Eye's suggestion, today I pulled the speed sensor off my older (first week of June, 2017) 15A system and installed it on the 18A TSDZ2 and it cured the issue - I mean it slowed me down to sub-light speed... Eye thinks it's the firmware version...
eyebyesickle
10 kW
Yes, this problem has happened with a couple people, and have had limited success fixing it, so I am not sure if hooking up to the different speed sensor port in the new 'y' connector causes permanent scramble to displays or if it is a combo of the version 3.6 VLDC-5 having problems with the new speed sensors... the Y split has identical connectors with an internal circuit board splitter so they don't appear to be different
update soon when I have confirmation
update soon when I have confirmation
I've got a theory wrt the blue gear. Do you stand on the pedals when you ride, and when you brake?
If you braked hard, but was standing on the pedals, Applying torque to the pedals, while the bike was still in motion, you might kick the motor in right before locking up the drive train - putting some serious wear on that gear.
Only other thing I can think of is it's overheating from lack of lubrication and getting soft.
thoughts?
If you braked hard, but was standing on the pedals, Applying torque to the pedals, while the bike was still in motion, you might kick the motor in right before locking up the drive train - putting some serious wear on that gear.
Only other thing I can think of is it's overheating from lack of lubrication and getting soft.
thoughts?
In my case Squi the customer was riding a Recumbent Trike so hopefully she wasn't applying any pressure to the pedals while she was braking. I know where she lives there are some super steep hills & my guess is she was starting out in too high a gear or power setting but I don't know the cause of the failure for sure. Didn't I see a provision in the menu items for either a walk mode or a delay in the add power that you had to be moving before the power kicked in?
James Broadhurst
100 W
The thing about these types of gears is that they will survive without lubrication. That is after all their main advantage.squee22 said:
James Broadhurst
100 W
You're correct although I don't think it's in the setup menu. It's a small delay of a second or two. The Neo bikes don't have a delay and if you're waiting with your feet on the pedals and off the brakes, you can be moving very fast into the traffic without realising it!Daytriker said:
extrasilver
100 mW
- Joined
- May 30, 2016
- Messages
- 37
James Broadhurst said:
but even if you apply pressure onto the peddles while you stationary.. the motor wont start until you turn the crank as well as applying pressure
Thanks for that Extrasilver. I am waiting for my replacement gear as I did a swap out for the customer so they could keep riding. With the gear failing at only 60 kms. riding it was a little disappointing to experience this when trying a new system. I am hoping it was customer error & once the gear is replaced the system proves reliable.
tomjasz
1 GW
James Broadhurst said:
Yet all the other motor builders with synthetic gears do spec a lubricant and they do require lubrication. Are we thinking TS doesn't?
RTIII
1 kW
tomjasz said:
Yes, TS does specify lubrication be used and that specification has even been published in this thread, oh, about three weeks ago or so.
