2 Speed Xiongda hubmotor

No, it doesn't get hot. That's the whole point of the low gear, which keeps the motor spinning efficiently. One time, I was riding up a 30% hill with a friend who was on a bike with a 36v Bafang BPM at 30 amps. He melted his phase wires half way up. The higher efficiency also gives more motive power when climbing.

It's mounted in a 26" wheel.
 
dv8eh, I also have the 48 v, 15a version and my motor also never heats up. Even when max'd out at 3-4 m/h. My 15a fuse has never burnt, so I think that the controller keeps it from over amping.

Total sidebar. I've been off the bike for awhile because I mounted my 750 w*h, 48 v battery on my junked mini bike rescue. It has a 750 w, 48 v motor, and the Nuvinci 171 ~3.6 turn down auto trans developers kit. When I return from vaca, and replace one poorly installed jackshaft set screw, I'll post pix and vids in these fora. Really climbs the country hills...!
 
Iv'e been building the disc version into a 27.5" rim (in another thread). It's going on a 135mm steel frame so I just spread the drops a bit.
Lately iv'e been thinking I'd like to try the same wheel/mtr into a Montague (alloy 27.5" ready folding frame), at '135mm. IIRC the only rear disc options are 142mm and 170mm with disc?

Can I just take the round shoulder off on the drive side (7mm), I think this would work, and still as a 5/6 speed freewheel.. but am I missing something else (other than nthe mtr then not fitting the 142mm frame)? The disc-side fitting should be unchanged.
 
I have to congratulate Xiongda on their after-sales support. My controller stopped changing to low gear after three years and 4000 miles, plus, a friend broke her ring gear on a trike when she pushed it backwards. Xiongda provided me with the sideplate, ring gear and revised sun gear plus a new controller, LCD3 and HAL switch for $45 including shipping to the UK.
 
d8veh said:
I have to congratulate Xiongda on their after-sales support. My controller stopped changing to low gear after three years and 4000 miles, plus, a friend broke her ring gear on a trike when she pushed it backwards. Xiongda provided me with the sideplate, ring gear and revised sun gear plus a new controller, LCD3 and HAL switch for $45 including shipping to the UK.
Click to expand...

Good to know. Do you have any details on the "revised" sun gear? My motor is doing fine, due to good advice from you and a couple of others, but would it be worthwhile to change it out pre-emptively?

FYI, I have not been running my front hub equipped Bikee E2 tandem recumbent lately because I am too cheap to buy a second battery, and it's kind of hard to get it off of my new build.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=89188

I'll figure out a "quick uninstall" scheme over the next few days and get back on it. Actually a blessing in disguise, since I now ride the Bikee RX for about 2 hours every other day, which keeps my BP, lipids, BMI, etc more or less under control....
 
This is what i got from Xiongda:

"Since last August, we use stronger material for the sun gear.
since that no more broken sun gear problem.
Last year we also did some minor improvements on the clutch,
make it stronger, so no crack problem."

You have to bear in mind that nearly all the broken motors were on trikes and recumbents, where people pushed them backwards with weight on the motor. The clutch suddenly jams and a massive force gets transferred to the sun gear and the ring gear, which breaks them. That isn't a problem for a bicycle because you don't normally go backwards with weight on. When you get the bike out of your shed, the wheel locks and skids, so you lift it up. I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Great to see you back here D8veh.
I agree with what you said above, XD after sales really is great. They have a heart for their products, and that is quite rare these days.
Bonnie told me this lately:
Bonnie said:
From our point of view, as manufacture, we hate to see a motor get dumped just because of some small problems. if not about money, it's about the time we spend on producing one, and it may run good for years!
Click to expand...
 
Ozzzz said:
Iv'e been building the disc version into a 27.5" rim (in another thread). It's going on a 135mm steel frame so I just spread the drops a bit.
Lately iv'e been thinking I'd like to try the same wheel/mtr into a Montague (alloy 27.5" ready folding frame), at '135mm. IIRC the only rear disc options are 142mm and 170mm with disc?

Can I just take the round shoulder off on the drive side (7mm), I think this would work, and still as a 5/6 speed freewheel.. but am I missing something else (other than nthe mtr then not fitting the 142mm frame)? The disc-side fitting should be unchanged.
Click to expand...


Ok doesn't seem that there's more room than for a single speed freewheel for 135mm with disc (but otherwise shouldn't be an issue).

Single speed may be a bit too limiting.
 
I have developed a problem: There is no longer any speed reading on the LCD; it stays at 0.0 mph.

The motor works fine at manual low speed and manual high speed. It does NOT, however, automatically shift any more, presumably because it no longer gets the speed reading.

How does this motor ascertain and feed back speed to the controller?

Is it through the Hall sensors for the 3 phases? I have checked them using a voltmeter and they seem to be OK. The motor accelerates and works fine otherwise, so if there was indeed a problem with the phase sensors, the motor wouldn't work presumably?

I have noticed that standard 3 phase motors have 3 Hall sensor wires + power and GND = 5 wires.

This 2s connector has 6 wires coming from the motor - there is an extra white wire. Could this be a sensor that is meant to be feeding the speed signal?

Help would be appreciated, thank you :)
 
There's a ninth white wire in the motor cable that carries the speed signal. There were different controller options, but they all work the same, though access to that white wire might be different. basically, you get an external speed sensor. a proprietary e-bike one has 3 wires, so you need to splice the black and the red to any ground and 5v wires, like on the PAS, throttle or hall sensor connector, then the signal wire from the speed sensor has to be connected to the white on the hall connector.

It might be an idea to check whether the motor's speed sensor is working first. Measure between the black and the white in the hall connector while you turn the wheel. You should get one 5v pulse each rotation. If it's working, then you have a controller software error. you could try a reset, but that didn't solve mine. I had to get a new controller and LCD.

If the speed sensor isn't working, then an external one should. You can also cut one off a cheap or unused cycle computer. they have two wires. You can connect either wire to the white, and i think the other goes to 5v. If it doesn't work like that, the second wire goes to ground. No harm will be done if you get it wrong on the first attempt.
 
So... It's been over 3 years, where is the larger 48v 30Ah version? This could replace almost every motor including BBSHD.

Gear for better efficiency and longer range - climbing at 7mph, cruising at 20mph.

You could achieve the ebike dream - comfortably using only one gear (44/14) for both cruising and climbing. No changing gears on your part. When you reach a hill you are simply pulled upwards like on a ski lift, and you add power by pedalling slowly if necessary. All with no ridiculous discharge rate, or inefficiency, or overheating. Then you go back to cruising at 20mph with minimal pedal assist.
 
flyingpants said:
So... It's been over 3 years, where is the larger 48v 30Ah version? This could replace almost every motor including BBSHD.

Gear for better efficiency and longer range - climbing at 7mph, cruising at 20mph.

You could achieve the ebike dream - comfortably using only one gear (44/14) for both cruising and climbing. No changing gears on your part. When you reach a hill you are simply pulled upwards like on a ski lift, and you add power by pedalling slowly if necessary. All with no ridiculous discharge rate, or inefficiency, or overheating. Then you go back to cruising at 20mph with minimal pedal assist.
Click to expand...

All true, but I think X screwed themselves with nylon gear problems, clutch problems, and bad lubing, when their line was first offered. Between help from Bonnie and folks on these fora I've been happy so far with the performance of my 48 volt, "skinny" version, But folks don't to take the chance on something novel that has horror stories of untimely failures, complete with shots of chewed up innards.
 
bigoilbob said:
I've been happy so far with the performance of my 48 volt, "skinny" version,
Click to expand...

Could you elaborate on what you mean by "48 volt, "skinny" version"?

My reply from Bonnie gave these power options "Rated 24V250W/36V250W/48V300W". And 100/110/135/145/155mm depending on front/back thread-on/lock-on v/disk brake.



Also a question that probably ought to be in a separate thread, but is very relevant here also.

My bike is a steel full-sus with 135 dropouts and disk rear brake. How much trouble am I in with considering spreading the dropouts from 135 to 145?

The rear sus is the very simplest linkage. A ridged rear triangle with the only pivot point just in front of the bottom bracket -- so no chain lengthening -- and the spring/damper unit activated directly by the top of the rear triangle and acting inline to a bracket on the underside of top tube.

Would anyone try it? If so, how would they go about it?

(I'm thinking: place a sissor jack between the dropout plates, if possible bolt the dropouts to the jack top and bottom plates to keep them parallel and then wind. Back off to release the spring, check the spread and wind again. Rinse and repeat till I get the spread I need. Problem: ensuring that the spread occurs evenly distributed. Thoughts?)

View attachment 3P1100179_2.jpgP1100180_2.jpg
 
A steel frame will bend out that is no problem. But a hub motor in your rear wheel will probably disturb the suspension a lot. You should also verify if the pivot of the rear fork is strong enough to cope with the forces applied by the motor.
 
knutselmaaster said:
But a hub motor in your rear wheel will probably disturb the suspension a lot.
Click to expand...

Um. There is only 80mm travel and I have it on pretty much the softest setting. It's to protect my 60y/o old spine with 2 medically fused vertebrae, not leaping of the top of mountains :)

I mostly travel cycleways, tow paths etc. with only the occasion and low speed travel on unsurfaced paths. The potholes and dropped drains on the roads are worse if you cannot avoid them because a car is going by too close.

If I have to stiffen it a little that'd be okay. If necessary I could replace the cheap-o standard spring unit with a better one.

knutselmaaster said:
You should also verify if the pivot of the rear fork is strong enough to cope with the forces applied by the motor.
Click to expand...

It's a 50mm wide by 22mm diameter plain bushed bearing -- that's bigger than the suspension arm bushes on many cars -- that only has to travel about 5° or 6°, so I don't anticipate any problems there.


I'm still stuck for a way to ensure that the spread is even? And I'm a little concerned about the effect it will have on the chain alignment/derailleur setup?
 
If your keeping the disc rear you'll only fit a single speed freewheel (or maybe 2/3 sp?)
 
Ozzzz said:
If your keeping the disc rear you'll only fit a single speed freewheel (or maybe 2/3 sp?)
Click to expand...

According to Bonnie, 145mm is with disk and 7-speed free wheel. Do you know better?
 
It's a wide motor. I have an message from Bonnie saying 5sp/145mm but I couldn't even see that happening for me. If anyone else has a 7sp/145mm disc i'm interested too.
 
Ozzzz said:
It's a wide motor. I have an message from Bonnie saying 5sp/145mm but I couldn't even see that happening for me. If anyone else has a 7sp/145mm disc i'm interested too.
Click to expand...

This is the drawing she sent me:YTWS(Disk-brake-freewheel)145mm.jpg

The 36.5mm matches well, with a mm or two to spare with the 7-speed cluster on my bike.
 
knutselmaaster said:
I got one on a MTB with disc and 7 speed, alu frame.
Non problems appeared for now, after a few thousand kilometres it is still all good.
Click to expand...

Was that 145mm 'tween dropouts to start with?
 
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