Stealth FUTR owners builds and pics

It may be rocks and sticks bumping into you derailleur? Ive had that once or twice on my single speed, otherwise its been pretty good.

Thought id pop this pic in here, as my builds-for-sale progress, and as i mentioned i have a new camera!

lash-ebikes-white-beta.jpg


Pretty happy with the front wheels, 20mm chosen hubs, alex volar rims. I think i have the rotor on the wrong way though?...

Next up is ordering some more cells and actually starting to install, trim n chop n tighten to get this thing going - oh and waiting for a few more key components to turn up i just ordered , like brakes, ive gone with shimano m7000 and ICE pads, so that should be choice.

I have an 8 speed freewheel on the way, any recommendations for shifters? im thinking left handed trigger shifter. leaving the right hand for throttle, regen / buttons / thumbs up & flipping the bird etc.

By my calculations a 127mm square taper BB with slightly flared cranks should fit the Alpha with mm to spare. However im going to get a octalink type for the alphas i think to be on the safe side. Will post my findings when my second square taper turns up - as i will test fit to check. That might help others out.
My smart BMS turned up too, so will report back on that soon too.
 
Damn Jay,I see you are using your Alpha for what it was intended for. Sweet. Yah, that swamp doesn't look very terra firma.
 
Lash said:
It may be rocks and sticks bumping into you derailleur? Ive had that once or twice on my single speed, otherwise its been pretty good.

Thought id pop this pic in here, as my builds-for-sale progress, and as i mentioned i have a new camera!

htt

Pretty happy with the front wheels, 20mm chosen hubs, alex volar rims. I think i have the rotor on the wrong way though?...

Next up is ordering some more cells and actually starting to install, trim n chop n tighten to get this thing going - oh and waiting for a few more key components to turn up i just ordered , like brakes, ive gone with shimano m7000 and ICE pads, so that should be choice.

I have an 8 speed freewheel on the way, any recommendations for shifters? im thinking left handed trigger shifter. leaving the right hand for throttle, regen / buttons / thumbs up & flipping the bird etc.

By my calculations a 127mm square taper BB with slightly flared cranks should fit the Alpha with mm to spare. However im going to get a octalink type for the alphas i think to be on the safe side. Will post my findings when my second square taper turns up - as i will test fit to check. That might help others out.
My smart BMS turned up too, so will report back on that soon too.[/quote]

Looking good. Yah, your rear rotor is on backwards. I see you are using a geared hub. What kind of power are you looking at running? I was thinking of trying a Mac 10 on 16s with a 40amp controller, oil cooling, and using a steel gears. 2600w in a lightweight reliable package should make for a good handling machine.
Click to expand...
 
Rix said:
Damn Jay,I see you are using your Alpha for what it was intended for. Sweet. Yah, that swamp doesn't look very terra firma.
Click to expand...
Yeah, as I posted on FB I almost got stuck in the quicksand-like bog! It looked pretty solid, grassy looking along the edges and a few metres out of shot was a big expanse out dried out mud with great big cracks all through it (cracks in the crust looked like an inch thick). I thought I might be able to float across it, but nope! Worse still when the bike fell over in the mud, trying to pull out out actually levered my weight down into the mud, causing me to sink up to my calves! I was a bit worried I was going to be stuck there but once I had the bike upright I used the power to pull us both out, in an epic mud flinging shit fight. :lol:

Your latest build looks good lash, you just need a matching non-vbrake rear wheel.
 
Lash, that looks nice. Yeah it could be debris mostly though when it happens its after hitting high speed bumps and ruts etc.
As for shifters I'm using a crappy shimano 7spd click shifter on the right but it's a pain to use because it's too far inboard to allow clearance for the domino throttle. I might try a twist shifter on the left side to see if that's any better. I'm also getting some cable adjustment trouble because I ran the cable outer through the frame all the way from shifter to derailleur and it's a very bendy path. Might have to try running it on the outside. On your brake disk there should be a directional arrow to follow.

Jay, I bet you have some work to do getting that mud off your bike, yuck :lol:

Rix, your beta recipe sounds appetising, what about a lightning rods big block I see he is selling a kit that fits the beta.
I would love to try that LR big block or a Mac with a 27.5+ wheel set on a beta frame.
 
Speaking of beta builds, here's my latest hotness.
Hyena special edition frame, triple clamp front end, Magura brakes, new cast stator H4080 running sinewave smoothness at 5700w.

I dub this bike, Jack.
Jack be nimble, Jack be quick
Jack of all trades! :mrgreen:

7NircSHl.jpg



b8AVwMPl.jpg
 
Well it started out in column A but ended up moving to column B when someone wanted to buy it! Keep your eye out for it in your neck of the woods :wink:

So now I need to start over again building my own! I dont currently own a beta so I must get cracking! I do like the look of it with the triple clamp forks but I'll be sticking with the single crowns for my own build I think. I'm really torn on the colour though now. I really like the stark contrast between the carbon inserts and the white body, but then I also love the pics of my old grey one.
I'm leaning towards white as I already have another gunmetal alpha I'm building up that I plan to keep, but that may not pan out either. :lol:
It's all heavy duty - moto rims front and rear, triple clamp forks, big battery, chunky moto mudguards and twin quad led headlights.
The beta will be the opposite - single crown forks, 24x2.4" tyres, 18ah battery and H4065 motor.
Given the Alpha has almost double the capacity I'll use it for long range expeditions, so I may not even fit a CA to the beta, and try to keep it minimal and clean on the bars and just fit a flush mount colour LED bar graph volt meter or similar under the key switch.
 
Here is my contribution to a "clean" Beta build... ;)

14S6P VTC6
8T MAC in 24" Halo SAS / 26" front (Crazy Bob's F/R)
USD-8
RockShox DHX RC2
KH612 with Flux

Currently does 58 km/h on the flats, and still pulls like a horse uphills. Love it. Think it will deserve a dropper post and a real FOC soon :-D
 

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Nice one Sparkie! Looks very neat!

Speaking of batteries... What can you guys recommend for battery size in a Alpha? Does 20s7p with Samsung 30q soud good? I would like to utilize as much space as possible but don't know the physical size of a pack like that
 
sparkiesweden said:
Here is my contribution to a "clean" Beta build... ;)

14S6P VTC6
8T MAC in 24" Halo SAS / 26" front (Crazy Bob's F/R)
USD-8
RockShox DHX RC2
KH612 with Flux

Currently does 58 km/h on the flats, and still pulls like a horse uphills. Love it. Think it will deserve a dropper post and a real FOC soon :-D
Click to expand...

Very nice setup!

Does it get hot when you travel at 58km/h for long time?
I was thinking to build something similar!
What is the maximum power without overheating issues?

Ioannis
 
Cricket_Swe said:
Nice one Sparkie! Looks very neat!

Speaking of batteries... What can you guys recommend for battery size in a Alpha? Does 20s7p with Samsung 30q soud good? I would like to utilize as much space as possible but don't know the physical size of a pack like that
Click to expand...

Technically there is enough room to go 2 bricks of 20s 7P stacked on each other. Here is a pic of 18s 7P in the Alpha sitting on its side.
 
sparkiesweden said:
Here is my contribution to a "clean" Beta build... ;)

14S6P VTC6
8T MAC in 24" Halo SAS / 26" front (Crazy Bob's F/R)
USD-8
RockShox DHX RC2
KH612 with Flux

Currently does 58 km/h on the flats, and still pulls like a horse uphills. Love it. Think it will deserve a dropper post and a real FOC soon :-D
Click to expand...

Thats a clean build, am running similiar with a 10Tmac and 24 on the rear and 26MTB up front. I also have a P7 now, its not quite as fast as my Beta, but just as fun.
 

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Hyena said:
Speaking of beta builds, here's my latest hotness.
Hyena special edition frame, triple clamp front end, Magura brakes, new cast stator H4080 running sinewave smoothness at 5700w.

I dub this bike, Jack.
Jack be nimble, Jack be quick
Jack of all trades! :mrgreen:

[/img]
Click to expand...
As usual Jay, top notch work, the owner will no doubt be happy. I like the look of the black CF on white. Starting to grow on me.
 
Technically there is enough room to go 2 bricks of 20s 7P stacked on each other. Here is a pic of 18s 7P in the Alpha sitting on its side.
Click to expand...

Nice, could you perhaps tell me if there is enough space in there for a max-e beside your 18s9p? Or maybe having the controller on the inside of your frame is a bad idea?
 
icherouveim said:
sparkiesweden said:
Here is my contribution to a "clean" Beta build... ;)

14S6P VTC6
8T MAC in 24" Halo SAS / 26" front (Crazy Bob's F/R)
USD-8
RockShox DHX RC2
KH612 with Flux

Currently does 58 km/h on the flats, and still pulls like a horse uphills. Love it. Think it will deserve a dropper post and a real FOC soon :-D
Click to expand...

Very nice setup!

Does it get hot when you travel at 58km/h for long time?
I was thinking to build something similar!
What is the maximum power without overheating issues?

Ioannis
Click to expand...

It get's a bit warm, but not bad. Power is currently limited to ~1,5kW, I think peak of 2.5kW is doable (perhaps oil cooling needed). However a more efficient and feature-rich controller is my next step. I have PhaseRunner's and a BAC2000 on its way :-D
 
On the subject of controllers getting very warm/ hot , when running at certain amount of hi amps , I had this issue to with my Lyen sensorless 18 fet controller running on a 72 volt LI-ION pack . Once I would hit 40 - 80 amps on a regular riding basis, the controller was getting very warm . The simpliest idea I could come up with was buying a 90 degree vinyl rainspout elbow, and attaching it to my frame so it would directly divert the air over top of the controller...basically a air scoop. This has worked fantastically . Here is the link to the elbow..and here is a photo of my ebike . If anyone is interested, I will take a photo of the opposite side of the ebike so you can see where I mounted the vinyl elbow. My ebike battery can pump out around 140 amps and reach about 60 mph top speed, but I toned it down so it now only hits 90 amps max..which is still around 45-50 mph top speed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raingo-Wht-90Dg-Downspout-Elbow-/201908134101?epid=817181329&hash=item2f02a9a0d5:g:TF4AAOSwU-pXsfKA
 
Here is how I mounted my controller/ air scoop. I realize a lot of people mount their controller in the front of the bike, so it gets hit directly with the air , but I don't like doing this for 2 reasons.

1. The controller will often get wet/ muddy when riding thru dirty conditions.

2. by mounting the controller way upfront, you increase the length of each phase wire .

I used my plasma cutter and made a square slot right below my seat , where the controller can slid into . This allows the controller to still get good ventilation , while keeping it away from mud/water and it brings the controller much closer to the rear motor which means you are able to decrease the length of each phase wire by 1-2 feet. This means less resistance/ better efficiency. You can see I mounted the air scoop so it diverts the air mostly over the front of the controller, where the wires exit. I did this because it seems like this is the 1st area of the controller to get the hottest , so by keeping that section cooler, it keeps the whole controller cooler.
 

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Very clever patent but you also could just put the controller at the bottom of the frame where it stays always cool.
By the way this frame looks nice, from where have you bought it and what is the cost?
 
icherouveim said:
Very clever patent but you also could just put the controller at the bottom of the frame where it stays always cool.
By the way this frame looks nice, from where have you bought it and what is the cost?
Click to expand...

Yes, many people mount the controller in the front of the bike or at the bottom of the frame in front. Like I said, the controller seems to have a better shot of getting wet/ muddy in those positions , so where I mounted it , its higher up on the bike, and much closer to the motor . This also allows me to easily reach down with my hand and feel the controller to see how warm it has gotten. Also , Shorter phase wires generally = better efficiency/ less resistance. So for me, its a win win situation. The frame came from a member on here named EYEBYESICKLE.

My GPS tells me I'm getting 50 mph top speed at 68 amp draw on a 72 volt battery. This battery can pump 140 amps , but I don't need to push the system to its maximum and I used 8 gauge wire for my connections.
 
Cricket_Swe said:
Technically there is enough room to go 2 bricks of 20s 7P stacked on each other. Here is a pic of 18s 7P in the Alpha sitting on its side.
Click to expand...

Nice, could you perhaps tell me if there is enough space in there for a max-e beside your 18s9p? Or maybe having the controller on the inside of your frame is a bad idea?
Click to expand...

No, cant do side byside as the frame is 120mm and the controller is 70mm wide and the pack is 70mm wide turned on its side. Could go 20s, 7P and stack the controller on top. Or build a hump pack and go 8P. But thats it.
 
Rix said:
Cricket_Swe said:
Technically there is enough room to go 2 bricks of 20s 7P stacked on each other. Here is a pic of 18s 7P in the Alpha sitting on its side.
Click to expand...

Nice, could you perhaps tell me if there is enough space in there for a max-e beside your 18s9p? Or maybe having the controller on the inside of your frame is a bad idea?
Click to expand...

No, cant do side byside as the frame is 120mm and the controller is 70mm wide and the pack is 70mm wide turned on its side. Could go 20s, 7P and stack the controller on top. Or build a hump pack and go 8P. But thats it.
Click to expand...

What is the maximum number of 18650 cells that fit into an alpha frame?
 
icherouveim said:
Rix said:
Cricket_Swe said:
Technically there is enough room to go 2 bricks of 20s 7P stacked on each other. Here is a pic of 18s 7P in the Alpha sitting on its side.
Click to expand...

Nice, could you perhaps tell me if there is enough space in there for a max-e beside your 18s9p? Or maybe having the controller on the inside of your frame is a bad idea?
Click to expand...

No, cant do side byside as the frame is 120mm and the controller is 70mm wide and the pack is 70mm wide turned on its side. Could go 20s, 7P and stack the controller on top. Or build a hump pack and go 8P. But thats it.
Click to expand...

What is the maximum number of 18650 cells that fit into an alpha frame?
Click to expand...

Around 260 cells through the opening. Maybe a little more if you shaped the front of the pack like Kepler did to go up into the triangle near the head tube.
 
icherouveim said:
Thanks!
Click to expand...

You bet,I base this on staggering the cells when making the pack,this will allow 7 cells to fit width wise in the frame. If you don't stagger the cells, then only 6 wide will fit.
 
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