new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?
- Thread starter emaayan
- Start date
gman1971
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2015
- Messages
- 976
Speaks the guy who only managed 60 miles out of a chain... heck that wouldn't even be 1 hour of running at 60 mph on my trike... dude, you can't even build an eBike right with similar components of what I've gotten thousands of trouble free miles, who are you to give advice about how to build or recharge a battery pack?... and claim everything Cyclone sucks... wonder why are you still here? You give BAD advice to people trying to get started, period; Parallel charging is a BAD idea for a novice. Then there is the CellLog 8S, its a pretty darn nice LiPo logger with USB, so bashing it proves you don't have much experience; btw, what helicopter do you own? can you even do nose-in hover?
Your first statement renders all other ones moot. Get a BMS and put it on, hopefully you won't burn the house down while doing it... You should do the serial port I explained on my previous post, or you are so cheap you won't buy a couple of duo 6S chargers? Then bulk charging LiPos is a much preferred alternative over parallel charging. I did bulk charge my 2.2 kWh pack a few times back when I had the pack inside the trike, and used the serial cable to keep an eye on each of the cells while I bulk charged it. But in the end turned out that balance charge every time was the better alternative.
What are you talking about man, Do you even know what CC/CV means? I can't remember for how long I've recharged LiPo packs to 4.2V (heck back in the day I used to overcharge them to 4.3V to get more runtime) maybe since 2003 and even earlier; back in these days the recommend low voltage was 2.6 volts per cell or something like that IIRC, using those fire-hazard LiPos 1st generation.
Never had issues with parallel charging until I started using them on EVs for days at a time; so I guess that's is worth something. BTW, how long do your batteries remain inside your eBike? a single ride? do you recharge them every ride? do you have to plug them in before you ride? yeah... I thought so... that is the reason why its appears similar to helicopters based on your very limited experience. So, if you don't know, then don't speculate, it doesn't make you look good.
When your packs are half way down, say 3.85V, and you run them at 30F outside for any period of time they will start go out of balance more and more UNDER LOAD, not at rest, and a 18S pack can sag almost 10volts in cold weather, if not more when fully charged; between the months of November and March around here; 10 volts is about 0.5 V/cell, when fully charged... and it only gets worse when the pack drains; but what do you know, right? have you ever logged a cell discharge curve on your eBike at 30F? probably not, so again, don't speculate or think others don't know. The pack might be fine at rest, but not UNDER LOAD in cold weather... my LVC alarm is set to 65.0 V, I get an ear piercing beep that indicates I shouldn't push the trike any further, that comes about to ~3.6 volts per cell, more or less the point when voltage starts to scatter; but then again without a BMS or a cell voltage display I have no way of knowing if one of my cells is already running under the 3.0V under load or not, hence why I am going with a BMS. You can keep paralleling your packs, I don't care, but that is BAD ADVICE for people who are new to eBikes and LiPos, period. I would take bulk charging LiPos ANY DAY over parallel charging.
One of your most recent post was to state you fried the halls of the motor, asking to run sensorless; so, basically you abused the motor and ruined the halls (I wouldn't be proud of that) and I certainly wouldn't listen to any of your advice b/c you seem to enjoy abusing the components and then stating it sucks... whether its on purpose, or ignorance, it doesn't matter; heck, I would bet you asked Cyclone to honor the warranty too... right?
When, and if you ever manage to have 14000 miles (and counting) under your belt with several months of sub zero F degrees in the mix, in rain, snow, ice, rain, etc, distributed over 3 high performance EVs, two of them failure free for almost 8000 miles, then we can have a conversation based on facts, in the meantime, everything you say that goes against the facts is just pure speculation and hearsay. I have the data and the miles to prove and show new Cyclone owners a surefire way to get a reliable eBike that will commute for thousands of miles without any issue, you don't; as proven by your track record here of claiming everything sucks, frying motor halls, and the 60 miles a chain joke, when I've managed to get 5000 miles out of a 10 speed one, I think sometimes you're just a troll.
G.
Your first statement renders all other ones moot. Get a BMS and put it on, hopefully you won't burn the house down while doing it... You should do the serial port I explained on my previous post, or you are so cheap you won't buy a couple of duo 6S chargers? Then bulk charging LiPos is a much preferred alternative over parallel charging. I did bulk charge my 2.2 kWh pack a few times back when I had the pack inside the trike, and used the serial cable to keep an eye on each of the cells while I bulk charged it. But in the end turned out that balance charge every time was the better alternative.
What are you talking about man, Do you even know what CC/CV means? I can't remember for how long I've recharged LiPo packs to 4.2V (heck back in the day I used to overcharge them to 4.3V to get more runtime) maybe since 2003 and even earlier; back in these days the recommend low voltage was 2.6 volts per cell or something like that IIRC, using those fire-hazard LiPos 1st generation.
Never had issues with parallel charging until I started using them on EVs for days at a time; so I guess that's is worth something. BTW, how long do your batteries remain inside your eBike? a single ride? do you recharge them every ride? do you have to plug them in before you ride? yeah... I thought so... that is the reason why its appears similar to helicopters based on your very limited experience. So, if you don't know, then don't speculate, it doesn't make you look good.
When your packs are half way down, say 3.85V, and you run them at 30F outside for any period of time they will start go out of balance more and more UNDER LOAD, not at rest, and a 18S pack can sag almost 10volts in cold weather, if not more when fully charged; between the months of November and March around here; 10 volts is about 0.5 V/cell, when fully charged... and it only gets worse when the pack drains; but what do you know, right? have you ever logged a cell discharge curve on your eBike at 30F? probably not, so again, don't speculate or think others don't know. The pack might be fine at rest, but not UNDER LOAD in cold weather... my LVC alarm is set to 65.0 V, I get an ear piercing beep that indicates I shouldn't push the trike any further, that comes about to ~3.6 volts per cell, more or less the point when voltage starts to scatter; but then again without a BMS or a cell voltage display I have no way of knowing if one of my cells is already running under the 3.0V under load or not, hence why I am going with a BMS. You can keep paralleling your packs, I don't care, but that is BAD ADVICE for people who are new to eBikes and LiPos, period. I would take bulk charging LiPos ANY DAY over parallel charging.
One of your most recent post was to state you fried the halls of the motor, asking to run sensorless; so, basically you abused the motor and ruined the halls (I wouldn't be proud of that) and I certainly wouldn't listen to any of your advice b/c you seem to enjoy abusing the components and then stating it sucks... whether its on purpose, or ignorance, it doesn't matter; heck, I would bet you asked Cyclone to honor the warranty too... right?
When, and if you ever manage to have 14000 miles (and counting) under your belt with several months of sub zero F degrees in the mix, in rain, snow, ice, rain, etc, distributed over 3 high performance EVs, two of them failure free for almost 8000 miles, then we can have a conversation based on facts, in the meantime, everything you say that goes against the facts is just pure speculation and hearsay. I have the data and the miles to prove and show new Cyclone owners a surefire way to get a reliable eBike that will commute for thousands of miles without any issue, you don't; as proven by your track record here of claiming everything sucks, frying motor halls, and the 60 miles a chain joke, when I've managed to get 5000 miles out of a 10 speed one, I think sometimes you're just a troll.
G.
flat tire said:
markz
100 TW
Balance Management System is a Chinese Gamble!
Be absolutely nice to find a decent source of a rock solid bms.
Be absolutely nice to find a decent source of a rock solid bms.
Chalo
100 TW
BMS = Better than Monastic Struggle.
Just a little cyclone 3000, ebiking awareness promotion here. Ok it's a video with some drone and on-bike shots showing off an example of the possibilities of the cyclone and the fun and excitement of ebiking in general. I know king of run-ons. You get the point.
enjoy 2min 33 sec not that bad
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jY7wQitUYsE&t=41s
enjoy 2min 33 sec not that bad
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jY7wQitUYsE&t=41s
Well, first off, I do appreciate all the advice. And I did ask for opinions... so all of them have been welcome. TBH I think the whole BMS vs No BMS is a tricky debate... It seems like both methods, when done right, can result in more or less the same thing... healthy balanced batteries. But each method has it's ups and downs, and sounds like it depends highly on the user which one is better for them... whether you have multiple EVs, are riding them daily, etc. From what I can tell, whether you have a BMS or not.. it's a very good idea to manually check the balance of your cells. But if you do have a good BMS, that you have double checked many times that it is doing it's job, it should require less work to regularly charge your EV. But if you don't like relying on a BMS, and prefer to keep things in check yourself, going without one is a perfectly legitimate method as well... when done correctly.
TBH, I have not decided on going with one or without one yet. But what I figure I can do in the meantime is figure out what I would need to purchase whether I go with a BMS or not. This could help in the decision, I'll be able to balance the cost of both options, as well as consider some benefits of either decision. For example, if I go with a BMS, I'd also likely end up getting a Cycle Satiator... which could be used on a number of different EVs (but also has a hefty price tag). If I go without a BMS, I'll be needing a 10s balancing charger, and I'm already in the market for a balancing charger, so that could kill 2 birds with one stone. I think it'll help make the decision if I have everything in front of me, with price tags.
So, if I go with a BMS, I need a 20s BMS, and from what I can tell, it doesn't really make sense to try to save money when it comes to a BMS, it's best to have a reliable one. So any recommendations on a good 20s BMS? So far I found the Bestechpower PCM-D131 (http://www.bestechpower.com/74v20spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCM-D131.html) It looks like I could easily set the max charge to as low as 4.0 (seems to be a good number to keep the batteries healthy) as well as the discharge capped somewhere between 2.3 and 3.0v. Seems like a decent choice, tho I can't seem to find where to purchase them. But when ti comes to choosing a BMS, it seems like the best idea is to learn from other people's experience... so looking forward to hearing what 20s BMS people have had good experiences with and would recommend.
If I don't go with a BMS, what 10s charger do you guys recommend. The iCharger line of chargers seems pretty popular... anyone want to chime in on their experience here, and hopefully recommend a specific model (or at least tell me what I should stay away from).
I won't lie, right now I am leaning towards going with a BMS in the long run. BUT, I also realize, since I already need a balancing LIPO charger.... and since this first pack is actually a pretty damn small/cheap one... once I crunch the numbers... It might make sense to go without a BMS to see how well I like it (more, how much of a PITA it will end up being), and then decide after some time.
TBH, I have not decided on going with one or without one yet. But what I figure I can do in the meantime is figure out what I would need to purchase whether I go with a BMS or not. This could help in the decision, I'll be able to balance the cost of both options, as well as consider some benefits of either decision. For example, if I go with a BMS, I'd also likely end up getting a Cycle Satiator... which could be used on a number of different EVs (but also has a hefty price tag). If I go without a BMS, I'll be needing a 10s balancing charger, and I'm already in the market for a balancing charger, so that could kill 2 birds with one stone. I think it'll help make the decision if I have everything in front of me, with price tags.
So, if I go with a BMS, I need a 20s BMS, and from what I can tell, it doesn't really make sense to try to save money when it comes to a BMS, it's best to have a reliable one. So any recommendations on a good 20s BMS? So far I found the Bestechpower PCM-D131 (http://www.bestechpower.com/74v20spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCM-D131.html) It looks like I could easily set the max charge to as low as 4.0 (seems to be a good number to keep the batteries healthy) as well as the discharge capped somewhere between 2.3 and 3.0v. Seems like a decent choice, tho I can't seem to find where to purchase them. But when ti comes to choosing a BMS, it seems like the best idea is to learn from other people's experience... so looking forward to hearing what 20s BMS people have had good experiences with and would recommend.
If I don't go with a BMS, what 10s charger do you guys recommend. The iCharger line of chargers seems pretty popular... anyone want to chime in on their experience here, and hopefully recommend a specific model (or at least tell me what I should stay away from).
I won't lie, right now I am leaning towards going with a BMS in the long run. BUT, I also realize, since I already need a balancing LIPO charger.... and since this first pack is actually a pretty damn small/cheap one... once I crunch the numbers... It might make sense to go without a BMS to see how well I like it (more, how much of a PITA it will end up being), and then decide after some time.
One issue I'm seeing with regards to running without a BMS is the "cell logger"... only because I am planning on running a 20s (well 2 x 10s in this case)... I can;t seem to find something to track the cell voltages higher than an 8s. I suppose the obvious answer there is to run 4 x 5s.... but I don't know how much I really want to do that. Having 2 cell loggers is a PITA, but not so bad... but having 4 would definitely be more annoying. I suppose running 5s packs would be easier with regards to finding a balancing charger.... there are only a handful of 10s chargers... but almost all chargers handle 5s... and I suppose it might actually not be hard to find a quad charger for 5s to be able to charger them all at once. But I'm still not liking the idea of having to split this small battery into 4.. especially considering I plan to have at least 2 of these to run in parallel for longer trips.
On the other hand, with this hole in the market... If I do go without a BMS... I might end up making my own cell logger. Considering how cheap devices like the arduino and raspberry pi are, not to mention how small they have gotten... including the Raspberry Pi Zero W, that already has wifi and bluetooth built in... not to mention how cheap it is to get custom PCBs built in small numbers now... it really would not be that hard to build a device that could easily handle 2 x 10s balancing plugs and be able to not only monitor each cells charge, but be able to log them, as well as easily link to a phone vie bluetooth and have a simple app that could display in real time, as well as historical data, the current state of your battery. On top of that, it could easily be set to send you warnings if anything goes wrong, as well as include it's own speaker and either LEDs or even a small display to be able to notify you of issues without a phone being connected.
The best part is, I'm actually fully capable of doing everything I just described, start to finish... really the primarily limiting factor is my free time. Given I'm not an expert at designing custom PCBs, or interfacing with arduinos or raspberry pi's... but I have done it before, and this wouldn't require very complex circuitry.... and I am an expert when it comes to making a phone app, as well making interactive data visualization to show the logged data, and highlight potential points of interest. It would also be pretty easy to expand on this... adding a GPS module to provide location data with everything else.. etc.
Could be a fun project... tho like I said, my available time is one limiting factor... but one solution to that is to get other people on board with the project (not to mention, if I can find people better at the parts I'm not an expert at... would not only make things go faster, but would produce a better device). I'm going to look into this a little more. As things stand, this isn't my plan to make something to profit off of, more likely an Open Source project that, if I can find the people, would produce a simple device that could make monitoring your battery much easier (and more precise). If this is something that there is a need for, that people actually want... and if it is close to as easy as I am thinking it should be (tracking voltage over time really shouldn't be too hard... and adding something like a GPS location to that should be easy enough)... I'll then see if I can find a few people interested in helping out.
On the other hand, with this hole in the market... If I do go without a BMS... I might end up making my own cell logger. Considering how cheap devices like the arduino and raspberry pi are, not to mention how small they have gotten... including the Raspberry Pi Zero W, that already has wifi and bluetooth built in... not to mention how cheap it is to get custom PCBs built in small numbers now... it really would not be that hard to build a device that could easily handle 2 x 10s balancing plugs and be able to not only monitor each cells charge, but be able to log them, as well as easily link to a phone vie bluetooth and have a simple app that could display in real time, as well as historical data, the current state of your battery. On top of that, it could easily be set to send you warnings if anything goes wrong, as well as include it's own speaker and either LEDs or even a small display to be able to notify you of issues without a phone being connected.
The best part is, I'm actually fully capable of doing everything I just described, start to finish... really the primarily limiting factor is my free time. Given I'm not an expert at designing custom PCBs, or interfacing with arduinos or raspberry pi's... but I have done it before, and this wouldn't require very complex circuitry.... and I am an expert when it comes to making a phone app, as well making interactive data visualization to show the logged data, and highlight potential points of interest. It would also be pretty easy to expand on this... adding a GPS module to provide location data with everything else.. etc.
Could be a fun project... tho like I said, my available time is one limiting factor... but one solution to that is to get other people on board with the project (not to mention, if I can find people better at the parts I'm not an expert at... would not only make things go faster, but would produce a better device). I'm going to look into this a little more. As things stand, this isn't my plan to make something to profit off of, more likely an Open Source project that, if I can find the people, would produce a simple device that could make monitoring your battery much easier (and more precise). If this is something that there is a need for, that people actually want... and if it is close to as easy as I am thinking it should be (tracking voltage over time really shouldn't be too hard... and adding something like a GPS location to that should be easy enough)... I'll then see if I can find a few people interested in helping out.
10s will have / can be split into two 5s plugs which you can easily get cell checkers for BUT make sure you check that they're accurate. I've found them to be hilariously unreliable.
Making your own cell logger would be great, please share if you do that.
I have two icharger 3010b that I use for RC and ebikes. They are fast for charging my small batteries, easy to use, very programmable and I like and would recommend this charger. If 1KW power (500W on 12v input) is not enough for you then the 4010 duo is supposed to be a good charger but I've never used it. I like icharger because they use good quality components (rubicon caps and authentic ics) and are well engineered. You can also check your 10s balance very quickly using one of these chargers so cell checkers may not be necessary.
Make sure you plug in main power before balance leads, because if you have cells way out of balance you can damage the charger (it will blow out that balance circuit). Been there done that.
Making your own cell logger would be great, please share if you do that.
I have two icharger 3010b that I use for RC and ebikes. They are fast for charging my small batteries, easy to use, very programmable and I like and would recommend this charger. If 1KW power (500W on 12v input) is not enough for you then the 4010 duo is supposed to be a good charger but I've never used it. I like icharger because they use good quality components (rubicon caps and authentic ics) and are well engineered. You can also check your 10s balance very quickly using one of these chargers so cell checkers may not be necessary.
Make sure you plug in main power before balance leads, because if you have cells way out of balance you can damage the charger (it will blow out that balance circuit). Been there done that.
I suppose splitting the 10s plug into 2 x 5s for a cell checker would work... tho like I mentioned... if I was going to install these with the battery, to make it easy to check/track the voltages... with the 20s pack, I'd have 4 of them... AND since my plan is to have a small 20s2p for my usual short rides, and likely 1 or 2 more to run in parallel for longer rides.... 8+ cell loggers would be pretty crazy to say the least. Of course I could always run 1 and rotate the cables (or I could get fancy and have 4 x 5s plugs with a single 5s output and a switch to rotate between the 4 of them). But either way, definitely gonna be an added hassle.... this setup would be much more practical of a 14s pack (what I was originally going to build).... 2 x 7s would be so much easier with regards to chargers and cell loggers, etc.
I'm still very tempted to go with a BMS... BUT as I mentioned in the previous post... it may also be practical for me to first try running things without a BMS.... then decide later whether to stick without one or not. Based on the fact that I already need a balancing charger, there may not be much of a cost at trying this method, and later going to a BMS (if I decide to) vs just going with a BMS form the start. Plus would also give me a chance to try out this 20s2p pack, and if it doesn't work out (ie. not giving me the amps I want... overheats too fast.. or dies even faster than I'm expecting), will require less rebuilding in the end.
One thing I will need to purchase is some 10s and 5s balancing cable connectors. Are JST-XH the standard type for these connectors?... or are there others. Gotta look into my drawer of connectors, I think I have a number of different JST sizes/styles but not sure about '-XH'. Also, a balancing cable is going to have 1 + the number of series, right?... ie. a 10s will be 11 pin, and 5s will be 6 pin? At least I already have plenty of wire and every size crimping tool I could ever need, plus lots of practice with them.
I'm still very tempted to go with a BMS... BUT as I mentioned in the previous post... it may also be practical for me to first try running things without a BMS.... then decide later whether to stick without one or not. Based on the fact that I already need a balancing charger, there may not be much of a cost at trying this method, and later going to a BMS (if I decide to) vs just going with a BMS form the start. Plus would also give me a chance to try out this 20s2p pack, and if it doesn't work out (ie. not giving me the amps I want... overheats too fast.. or dies even faster than I'm expecting), will require less rebuilding in the end.
One thing I will need to purchase is some 10s and 5s balancing cable connectors. Are JST-XH the standard type for these connectors?... or are there others. Gotta look into my drawer of connectors, I think I have a number of different JST sizes/styles but not sure about '-XH'. Also, a balancing cable is going to have 1 + the number of series, right?... ie. a 10s will be 11 pin, and 5s will be 6 pin? At least I already have plenty of wire and every size crimping tool I could ever need, plus lots of practice with them.
BTW, I emailed SBPs today, and found out the kits are in stock. Considering their limited options on controllers, and the fact that the stock controller was actually recommended... my plan is to upgrade to the programmable stock controller at least... and start there. Maybe in the future I'll upgrade controllers, but seeing how the kit already has one, and its not too much more to upgrade to the programmable (which I definitely want), seems like a solid starting point.... and maybe I'll do that mod to increase the amps it can handle.
I'm also planning to upgrade the Front Freewheel to the UHD freewheel..... I know it's pretty damn expensive, but 2 things... first off, the bike I'm converting to an ebike currently has a White Industries The ENO BB/Crankset, so it just feels right getting a Freewheel made by them... and second, on top of the usual strain from a person pedaling and balancing on the pedals, there's the 3000W motor that's definitely gonna add quite a bit of force, the dual bearings makes a huge difference with regards to any form of moment loads. Is it really worth the cost, maybe not... but with everything else this bike already has, I'm willing to spend the extra cash to keep it's standards high.
I figure I might as well also upgrade the motor's freewheel to the HD version (its a very small difference in cost, so not a hard decision there). I'm also planning to grab the $20 motor cover... again, it's really cheap... and can't hurt (worse case I end up not using it).
Anyway, it looks like I'm going to have less time than I expected to make some decisions.... so I'm gonna be doing as much research/planning as I can... to see what makes sense. If it works out where I can test out the no BMS method then potentially upgrade to a BMS without much of a difference in cost... I'll probably go that route. If it doesn't work out that way... I'm gonna need to make a choice really soon... in which case... I really need to find a good 20s BMS that people recommend, if I go that route.
I'm also planning to upgrade the Front Freewheel to the UHD freewheel..... I know it's pretty damn expensive, but 2 things... first off, the bike I'm converting to an ebike currently has a White Industries The ENO BB/Crankset, so it just feels right getting a Freewheel made by them... and second, on top of the usual strain from a person pedaling and balancing on the pedals, there's the 3000W motor that's definitely gonna add quite a bit of force, the dual bearings makes a huge difference with regards to any form of moment loads. Is it really worth the cost, maybe not... but with everything else this bike already has, I'm willing to spend the extra cash to keep it's standards high.
I figure I might as well also upgrade the motor's freewheel to the HD version (its a very small difference in cost, so not a hard decision there). I'm also planning to grab the $20 motor cover... again, it's really cheap... and can't hurt (worse case I end up not using it).
Anyway, it looks like I'm going to have less time than I expected to make some decisions.... so I'm gonna be doing as much research/planning as I can... to see what makes sense. If it works out where I can test out the no BMS method then potentially upgrade to a BMS without much of a difference in cost... I'll probably go that route. If it doesn't work out that way... I'm gonna need to make a choice really soon... in which case... I really need to find a good 20s BMS that people recommend, if I go that route.
Oh, and I don't think I got this answered....
Does the cyclone controller have the 6 pin CA v3 connector? If not... are there any good "how to" docs/videos on adding on for this controller specifically?
If it doesn't what else do I need to purchase with the CA v3?.... would I get the CAv3-DP and the SHUNT-CA3 (http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/ca-accessories/shunt-ca3.html) ... or is there a different combo I should buy?
Does the cyclone controller have the 6 pin CA v3 connector? If not... are there any good "how to" docs/videos on adding on for this controller specifically?
If it doesn't what else do I need to purchase with the CA v3?.... would I get the CAv3-DP and the SHUNT-CA3 (http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/ca-accessories/shunt-ca3.html) ... or is there a different combo I should buy?
markz
100 TW
Search these threads
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=Cyclone+Cycle+Analyst
It looks like you are on the right path with your shunt purchase, because thats whats used for any generic controller.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=Cyclone+Cycle+Analyst
It looks like you are on the right path with your shunt purchase, because thats whats used for any generic controller.
markz
100 TW
I've been trying out different methods of rear rack storage. The best was the plastic ammo box from Cabella's. But it was starting to deform from the weight of the batteries (2 bricks of 18"L x 5" x 5") It was placed on one side and it was a little bit out of balance for the V-kickstand. I have also been getting too many people looking and asking questions. Thats because I have the controller on top of the rack near the seat, and I have the huge charger ontop behind the controller. It will be interesting to see how many people will notice just the Cyclone motor itself, I doubt very many will.
Just made this half bag and half box pannier that will house my three Meanwell HRP-24-300 on the bottom, and the controller on top. The wood part is all done. I will go to Fabricland tomorrow and find some heavy duty fabric to wrap around the steps only, leaving good airflow for the controller. Oops I almost forgot, I still have to drill some holes where the charger will be (below the controller), it has fans that push air out from one end, but my assumption is I have to drill holes on the other side where the terminal connections are. I will have some flaps to cover up the holes when I am riding. A giant wing nut on the backboard to keep the one piece (Box1 picture) from falling off.
Other then that I like to carry with my 11" or 14" zip ties, electrical tape, allen keys, a tube, puncture kit and anything else, will be on the bottom step. As I put more stuff in, it will raise up and get more room on the second step. The big holes are for the hose clamps to go through.
View attachment 1
There is a good chance I will end up angling the front off the bottom.
The other side I will make longer, protruding out the back more for long distance rides.
Just made this half bag and half box pannier that will house my three Meanwell HRP-24-300 on the bottom, and the controller on top. The wood part is all done. I will go to Fabricland tomorrow and find some heavy duty fabric to wrap around the steps only, leaving good airflow for the controller. Oops I almost forgot, I still have to drill some holes where the charger will be (below the controller), it has fans that push air out from one end, but my assumption is I have to drill holes on the other side where the terminal connections are. I will have some flaps to cover up the holes when I am riding. A giant wing nut on the backboard to keep the one piece (Box1 picture) from falling off.
Other then that I like to carry with my 11" or 14" zip ties, electrical tape, allen keys, a tube, puncture kit and anything else, will be on the bottom step. As I put more stuff in, it will raise up and get more room on the second step. The big holes are for the hose clamps to go through.
View attachment 1
There is a good chance I will end up angling the front off the bottom.
The other side I will make longer, protruding out the back more for long distance rides.
markz
100 TW
I wanted a strong frame, that is why I am doing half wooden & half fabric. What I havent accounted for were my batteries. I am going to split it up, and put one one either side. Until I start building the other sides box/bag whatever you want to call it, I will zip tie them ontop of the rear rack.
This is lighter then metal ammo box which is what I was going to buy, but there were not any of the size I wanted and their weights were 15 to 22 lbs, the largest size was 32x12.5x6.5, where my box/bag thingy is 12x12.5x9 with 3/4" laminated wood. Other side I will make of 1/2".
I like what I built, Im not going to put holes in the lower box as the controller is mounted and the piece of wood comes out but the chargers dont come out without unscrewing controller. When I charge, I will leave piece of wood off. It will be better that way, then fiddling with covers that most likely will fall off from branches catching.
This is lighter then metal ammo box which is what I was going to buy, but there were not any of the size I wanted and their weights were 15 to 22 lbs, the largest size was 32x12.5x6.5, where my box/bag thingy is 12x12.5x9 with 3/4" laminated wood. Other side I will make of 1/2".
I like what I built, Im not going to put holes in the lower box as the controller is mounted and the piece of wood comes out but the chargers dont come out without unscrewing controller. When I charge, I will leave piece of wood off. It will be better that way, then fiddling with covers that most likely will fall off from branches catching.
OK, onto my next challenge. I need to remove a White Industries The Eno crankset/freewheel... ideally without spending $40+ on a removal tool. Possible solution, 3D printing a similar shaped tool (thinking Polycarbonate should be strong enough). But, what would drastically help is if I could get accurate dimensions of this tool so I can build a 3D model of it. Just need to find someone with one, and a caliper, that will send me some measurements... otherwise, I suppose I can start off with any info I can find online, and some trial and error printing. I did purchase the HD/UHD Freewheel removal tool, which may work... tho maybe I should have bought the other freewheel removal tool, it's only $7, and looks more similar to the Eno removal tool. Given, the HD/UHD freewheels are also made by White industries... tho that doesn't mean the same tool would work on them.
Chalo
100 TW
progrock said:
I strongly doubt it. And my one experience with trying to laser cut polycarbonate makes me suggest not using any thermal processes on that material. Just don't.
Get a real remover tool. It looks like ten bucks will do it.
I can promise you, 3d printing Polycarbonate is NOTHING like making the mistake of putting PC in a laser cutter (which is also illegal in every state that actually cares.. for good reason). Unlike laser cutting PC, 3D printing does not cause those horrendous smokey fumes... in fact it is my favorite material by far to print. It's incredibly strong, very heat resistant.. plus can be annealed to increase both. There are only 2 real negatives I'm aware of when it comes to 3d printing PC,.... 1) it requires a very hot heated bed to print/stick well, I suaully stick to 130C, which is significantly hotter than most peoples printer's capabilities.... 2) it likes to warp/peel off the edges... so large flat prints are next to impossible even at 130C, tho a heated enclosed print chamber can help a bit there. If your printer can handle the needed temperatures, I highly recommend pushplastic's PC+PBT.... the PBT seems to help with the printing, while still retaining pretty much identical to PC characteristics. Anyway.. point is... 3d printing PC is in no ways even similar to laser cutting it... otherwise it would not be so popular among the people with printers that can handle it. It's also significantly stronger than every other common filament I have used... obv stronger than PLA, but also better than ABS, PETG, Nylons..... even small/thin printed pieces are almost impossible to brake by hand.
Anyway, on a side note... looks like I actually don't need the white industries tool right now.. tho I would still love to print one for future use.
What I do need... and what just drove me totally insane for the last hour... is a Phil Wood bottom bracket install/removal tool (BMRTC0)... took me forever to realize that's what this bike had. It's an 18 spine, instead of the standard 20... and a tony bit smaller diameter... tho looks almost identical. Luckily it's only a $15-$20 tool... but still a PITA.... was not expecting to have one of the ONLY BB styles that I don't already have a tool for on this bike. But could be worse... glad I found it now... while I'm still waiting on the motor kit. Now I just need to find the best place to order this from to get it quickly.
Anyway, on a side note... looks like I actually don't need the white industries tool right now.. tho I would still love to print one for future use.
What I do need... and what just drove me totally insane for the last hour... is a Phil Wood bottom bracket install/removal tool (BMRTC0)... took me forever to realize that's what this bike had. It's an 18 spine, instead of the standard 20... and a tony bit smaller diameter... tho looks almost identical. Luckily it's only a $15-$20 tool... but still a PITA.... was not expecting to have one of the ONLY BB styles that I don't already have a tool for on this bike. But could be worse... glad I found it now... while I'm still waiting on the motor kit. Now I just need to find the best place to order this from to get it quickly.
Scott76308
10 µW
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2016
- Messages
- 5
Can someone please tell me how to wire in the brake cut out switches. I feel like I read something a couple months ago but have spent the last 2 days trying to find it. I don't see any place to wire them up except possibly inline on one of the throttle wires. If so, which one? Also I want to try and use the bafang levers which have 3 wires. I am hoping 2 of those wires are a closed circuit while not pulling on the lever. Thanks for any info you can give me.
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Here is another take on Li-ion battery charging from the online Battery University
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
Charging to 3.92 v/cell gives 60-65% capacity
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
Charging to 3.92 v/cell gives 60-65% capacity
Of course in the midst of making a number of purchases, I caught on on a product I had almost forgotten about... but had previously planned to purchase some form of one when I finally built an ebike. What I'm referring to, is a a suspension seat post. The bike I am converting has only front suspension, and I plan to be doing a substantial amount of my riding on city streets, with more potholes than I want to think about right now.
About a year ago when I first started looking at these, I remember essentially having boiled down my options to 2 different brands (each with a couple of options of their own). It was with the Cane Creek Thudbuster ST or LT... or if I wanted to spend considerably more, the Cirrus Cycles BodyFloat... which seemed liek ti had potential, but seemed way too expensive, and possibly also too bouncy.
Well, now that I've done some additional reading... there seems to be a 3rd choice that not only has been getting some really good reviews... but is also the cheapest. The Suntour SP12 NCX. Seems like it's priced a little higher on this side of the pond in general... I've been seeing in the $90-$120 range, and actually was having trouble finding the smaller diameter (which is what I need) 27.2mm. All the US vendors I found either didn't have stock of that size, or were charging way more than they should be (I'm not sure if I even found one in the US that had stock). Almost accidentally, I found it available, with every possible size and color options, not to mention with a free cover, on aliexpresss... for $76.57 shipped to the US. Will likely take 3-4 weeks to arrive (tho I order from aliexpress quite a bit, and have had things come surprisingly fast, and some take quite a while... usually faster than you expect). https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Suntour-NCX-bicycle-Damping-suspension-seatpost-mountain-bike-seat-post-27-2-31-6-27-2mm/32828413295.html
My only concern is the added weight. Given this post doesn't seem like it will weigh too much... it's a combination of aluminum and steel (where the extra strength is needed)... but in my case.. it would be replacing a super light carbon fiber seat post. And, as I mentioned before, my building does not have an elevator, and I have to carry the bike up and down a flight of stairs (well down and then up) each time I use it... so trying to keep the weight as low as I can to make it an easy task (the commercial ebike I got a really good deal on has only been used 2 times in a few months since it's totally not worth lugging the 100+ lb beast up and down the stairs for most occasions that an ebike would usually be convenient... ie. going say 5 blocks away to pick up food... easier to walk than carry that thing both ways. But hoping this bike does not have that issue. This does seem like it could be a very useful upgrade when it comes to comfort... and at such a low price and such high reviews... I think I might pull the trigger, extra weight or not.
About a year ago when I first started looking at these, I remember essentially having boiled down my options to 2 different brands (each with a couple of options of their own). It was with the Cane Creek Thudbuster ST or LT... or if I wanted to spend considerably more, the Cirrus Cycles BodyFloat... which seemed liek ti had potential, but seemed way too expensive, and possibly also too bouncy.
Well, now that I've done some additional reading... there seems to be a 3rd choice that not only has been getting some really good reviews... but is also the cheapest. The Suntour SP12 NCX. Seems like it's priced a little higher on this side of the pond in general... I've been seeing in the $90-$120 range, and actually was having trouble finding the smaller diameter (which is what I need) 27.2mm. All the US vendors I found either didn't have stock of that size, or were charging way more than they should be (I'm not sure if I even found one in the US that had stock). Almost accidentally, I found it available, with every possible size and color options, not to mention with a free cover, on aliexpresss... for $76.57 shipped to the US. Will likely take 3-4 weeks to arrive (tho I order from aliexpress quite a bit, and have had things come surprisingly fast, and some take quite a while... usually faster than you expect). https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Suntour-NCX-bicycle-Damping-suspension-seatpost-mountain-bike-seat-post-27-2-31-6-27-2mm/32828413295.html
My only concern is the added weight. Given this post doesn't seem like it will weigh too much... it's a combination of aluminum and steel (where the extra strength is needed)... but in my case.. it would be replacing a super light carbon fiber seat post. And, as I mentioned before, my building does not have an elevator, and I have to carry the bike up and down a flight of stairs (well down and then up) each time I use it... so trying to keep the weight as low as I can to make it an easy task (the commercial ebike I got a really good deal on has only been used 2 times in a few months since it's totally not worth lugging the 100+ lb beast up and down the stairs for most occasions that an ebike would usually be convenient... ie. going say 5 blocks away to pick up food... easier to walk than carry that thing both ways. But hoping this bike does not have that issue. This does seem like it could be a very useful upgrade when it comes to comfort... and at such a low price and such high reviews... I think I might pull the trigger, extra weight or not.
markz
100 TW
Cyclone TW doesnt sell 4B 110BCD gears, I want an extra crank gear, so it must bolt onto the freewheel which then is any of the 5 hole gears, thinking 24T or 30T. Rear is a standard 11T-34T rear, both the fronts are the exact same size, 44T.
When I climbed a few hills from a stand still at the base of a steep hill using 44T and 11-34T it was slow but it was steady and climbed.
Here are the options for regearing
1) change the gear on the crank for the motor
2) change the gear on the crank for the rear gears
3) change both
4) change the sprocket on the motor
For both front crank gears. If I went 48-50T for speed and a 24-30T for torque monster then would that be too slow for hill climbing?
24T for 5 holes freewheel 12USD
mid 48T BCD 104mm 15USD
When I climbed a few hills from a stand still at the base of a steep hill using 44T and 11-34T it was slow but it was steady and climbed.
Here are the options for regearing
1) change the gear on the crank for the motor
2) change the gear on the crank for the rear gears
3) change both
4) change the sprocket on the motor
For both front crank gears. If I went 48-50T for speed and a 24-30T for torque monster then would that be too slow for hill climbing?
24T for 5 holes freewheel 12USD
mid 48T BCD 104mm 15USD
Probgrock
On suspension seatposts, I’ve had good luck with the zoom seatposts from AliExpress. Shipped about $30. They offer your size. I replaced a brooks saddle with the springs that squeaked like crazy and bounced me around to much. If I’m in my zone riding I get a flashback feeling of when I mountain biked back in the mid to late 90’s, wow 20 years ago. Those who remember the era know the excitement mtn biking and snowboarding, it was almost illegal, now look. Can ebikes go a similar route to acceptance?
On suspension seatposts, I’ve had good luck with the zoom seatposts from AliExpress. Shipped about $30. They offer your size. I replaced a brooks saddle with the springs that squeaked like crazy and bounced me around to much. If I’m in my zone riding I get a flashback feeling of when I mountain biked back in the mid to late 90’s, wow 20 years ago. Those who remember the era know the excitement mtn biking and snowboarding, it was almost illegal, now look. Can ebikes go a similar route to acceptance?
Attachments
Is anyone using a single speed freewheel in the rear to their cyclone? If so, did you need any tensioner for the chain or were you able to get it on tight by adding/removing chain links? Is it better to keep using the rear dereilleur even if you only have a single speed sprocket and bmx chain ?
