new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Either really slow for climbing - from motor to crank
or real fast from crank to real wheel.
Its expensive, and if its made out of steel then its worth it, if you need it.
 
OK, so I'm about to mod my stock 40amp bluetooth controller to add a Cycle Analyst 6-pin plug to it, and since there's pretty much no room to fit the cable into the main bundle of cables leaving the controller, and simply because that bundle is a total mess... I figure it would be a good idea to eliminate some wires I'll never need (or at the very least, tuck them in the controller if there is room... so I'll at least have space to get the Cycle Analyst plug out with the rest of the wires).

So, I started off by listing the different groups of wires, there are 13 of them, in no particular order... describing the wires from the controller:

1) Main Power, 2 wires: red, black (thickest wires)
2) Phase Wires, 2 wires: yellow, green (thick)
3) Phase Wire, 1 wire: blue (thick)
4) Bluetooth, 4 wires: red, green, yellow, black
5) Throttle, 3 wires: red, green, black
6) Low Brake, 2 wires: black, grey
7) Low Brake, 2 wires: black, grey (same as above, but there are 2)
8) Manual Cruise, 2 wires: black, purple+white
9) 3 Speed, 3 wires: blue, black, pink
10) Power Switch, Hall Sensor... 6 + 1 wires: yellow, blue, green, red, yellow+green, black, light red (light red separate, goes to battery harness?)
11) PAS, 3 wires: red, green, black
12) PAS ON/OFF, 2 wires: black, black
13) Reverse, 2 wires: black, brown

OK, so it's obviously safe to say some of these will not be needed on this build... and some, I'm not 100% sure on, but should be easy enough to figure out...

#13 Reverse, I don't think there is any use of this on a mid drive motor, correct?

I assume the 2 Low Brakes (#6, #7) are for the 2 brake levers to add sensors to temporarily kill the engine when the brakes are pressed?

As for #11 and #12, PAS and PAS ON/OFF... I don't plan on using pedal assist at first, but it's possible I may consider adding it later (tho unlikely). BUT, if I were to add PAS later, and since I will have a Cycle Analyst v3... would the PAS be wired to the CA, instead of the controller, making these wires useless to me?

#9, 3 Speed Button, another connector I don't think I'll be using... again, I figure I'd be using the cycle analyst to limit the motor (if I ever want to, probably only for letting people test ride the bike)... I don't think I need to keep this around either

#8 Manual Cruise, presumably this lets you add a cruise control switch... something I don't plan on doing right now, tho may come up in the future... tho, I am not sure about this, but is this also anoth control that could be wired to the CA instead of this connector?

#5, Throttle.... normally I would think this is a must have/important... BUT, again, since I am going to be using a CA v3, I'm pretty sure I would wire my throttle into that, so this is likely also unnecessary, right? (given, I may not entirely remove this, just tuck it away)


I think that pretty much covers it... aside from the connectors/wires that are completely obvious that I need. Can anyone confirm my thoughts on these?... I figure the ones I will never need, what I could do is simply cut the wire inside the controller, removing the connector and excess wire, but leave a stub that I can place a label on in case for one reason or another I decide to reattach the connector (or a new on for that matter). Of course I would wrap the stub in electrical tape, or similar, to make sure it never gets shorted out or anything like that.

On a side note, I dug up this post from a google image that caught my eye: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=81711

That upgraded mount looks amazing compared to the stock setup. Does anyone know if there is anywhere to get this, or something similar to it now?... I definitely want one!

Also, whats up with this washer mod I hear mentioned a ton of times, but can't seem to find a single post with working photos/diagrams... let alone just some photos floating around. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
 
Check out my controller. I've removed pretty much everything from it in preparation for a cleaner install.

file.php


You will need to jumper two wires in the 3-speed connector to enable maximum speed. On the stock 40A controller (at least on the one I got from Luna in July) , it's the black and blue wires. Not sure what they are on the Bluetooth controller. You may have to just try it out.
No need for reverse.
I would use the CA for PAS because on the CA it's adjustable.
The cruise function could be useful. I don't know if you can manually activate it on the CA. My understanding is that there is an auto setting where if your throttle is in the same position for a while, it will activate cruise.
The throttle input is necessary because the CA's throttle output connects to it. You only need the one throttle wire though (no need for the power wires).

Luna Cycle will sell mounts in the near future. In the meantime, do the side plate mod, or come up with a way to secure the end of the motor. If you buy the Cyclone 3000 from Luna Cycle, you won't need to reinforce the bracket because it already holds the end of the motor. The washer mod may not handle higher-powered setups.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=69867&p=1183684#p1183884

progrock said:
OK, so I'm about to mod my stock 40amp bluetooth controller to add a Cycle Analyst 6-pin plug to it, and since there's pretty much no room to fit the cable into the main bundle of cables leaving the controller, and simply because that bundle is a total mess... I figure it would be a good idea to eliminate some wires I'll never need (or at the very least, tuck them in the controller if there is room... so I'll at least have space to get the Cycle Analyst plug out with the rest of the wires).

So, I started off by listing the different groups of wires, there are 13 of them, in no particular order... describing the wires from the controller:

1) Main Power, 2 wires: red, black (thickest wires)
2) Phase Wires, 2 wires: yellow, green (thick)
3) Phase Wire, 1 wire: blue (thick)
4) Bluetooth, 4 wires: red, green, yellow, black
5) Throttle, 3 wires: red, green, black
6) Low Brake, 2 wires: black, grey
7) Low Brake, 2 wires: black, grey (same as above, but there are 2)
8) Manual Cruise, 2 wires: black, purple+white
9) 3 Speed, 3 wires: blue, black, pink
10) Power Switch, Hall Sensor... 6 + 1 wires: yellow, blue, green, red, yellow+green, black, light red (light red separate, goes to battery harness?)
11) PAS, 3 wires: red, green, black
12) PAS ON/OFF, 2 wires: black, black
13) Reverse, 2 wires: black, brown

OK, so it's obviously safe to say some of these will not be needed on this build... and some, I'm not 100% sure on, but should be easy enough to figure out...

#13 Reverse, I don't think there is any use of this on a mid drive motor, correct?

I assume the 2 Low Brakes (#6, #7) are for the 2 brake levers to add sensors to temporarily kill the engine when the brakes are pressed?

As for #11 and #12, PAS and PAS ON/OFF... I don't plan on using pedal assist at first, but it's possible I may consider adding it later (tho unlikely). BUT, if I were to add PAS later, and since I will have a Cycle Analyst v3... would the PAS be wired to the CA, instead of the controller, making these wires useless to me?

#9, 3 Speed Button, another connector I don't think I'll be using... again, I figure I'd be using the cycle analyst to limit the motor (if I ever want to, probably only for letting people test ride the bike)... I don't think I need to keep this around either

#8 Manual Cruise, presumably this lets you add a cruise control switch... something I don't plan on doing right now, tho may come up in the future... tho, I am not sure about this, but is this also anoth control that could be wired to the CA instead of this connector?

#5, Throttle.... normally I would think this is a must have/important... BUT, again, since I am going to be using a CA v3, I'm pretty sure I would wire my throttle into that, so this is likely also unnecessary, right? (given, I may not entirely remove this, just tuck it away)


I think that pretty much covers it... aside from the connectors/wires that are completely obvious that I need. Can anyone confirm my thoughts on these?... I figure the ones I will never need, what I could do is simply cut the wire inside the controller, removing the connector and excess wire, but leave a stub that I can place a label on in case for one reason or another I decide to reattach the connector (or a new on for that matter). Of course I would wrap the stub in electrical tape, or similar, to make sure it never gets shorted out or anything like that.

On a side note, I dug up this post from a google image that caught my eye: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=81711

That upgraded mount looks amazing compared to the stock setup. Does anyone know if there is anywhere to get this, or something similar to it now?... I definitely want one!

Also, whats up with this washer mod I hear mentioned a ton of times, but can't seem to find a single post with working photos/diagrams... let alone just some photos floating around. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Click to expand...
 

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Luna Cycle will sell mounts in the near future
Click to expand...

Just saw their is a few already for sale here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=81711
 
Robocam, thank you for the reply, and I love the super clean controller wiring you got there.

OK, I was wondering about the jumper for maximum speed... I kinda expected that the Cycle Analyst would be able to do that without the jumper... or possibly even the bluetooth connectivity could also provide that ability without the need of a jumper (but I have not looked into either yet, not even sure what options the bluetooth will give me). As for which 2 wires it is on the 40A bluetooth controller.... I'm not even sure if there is ANY difference between the normal 40A controller and the Bluetooth controller (Again, I could be totally wrong here), but it sorta appears that the "bluetooth" functionality is an add-on module connected to the controller externally (then again, maybe the non bluetooth doesn't even have the connector the module goes to, I'm just assuming they are the same because there is an external bluetooth module on my controller).

As I mentioned, I'm planning to mod my controller to add the 6 pin Cycle Analyst connector (using this walk through: http://www.ebikeschool.com/add-cycle-analyst-connector-controller/ ). Your response about the throttle wires pointed something out I had overlooked... in the process of cleaning up this controller's wiring, and adding the CA plug, there may be a few chances to simply utilize a wire from one of the connector/wire groups I'm cleaning up. Obviously the throttle is one, I'll have to check the others. But, that actually may slightly mess up my plans.... I was thinking about using some shielded signal wire I have, it's 8 x 22 gauge pure copper wire, shielded, and wrapped in white PVC. I've been using it to upgrade/clean up the wiring of my most recent custom 3D printer build... tho it's really intended to be used for wiring inside the walls of a house/building, but I think it should be fine for this. It's technically 8 strands, but I was just going to pull out 2, so it would be the 6 I need. Looks like I could remove the majority of the wires from the controller... of course leaving the power and phase wires, the other motor connector wires (hall, etc), the bluetooth connector wires, and the 6 wires for the CA connector. I'll have to checkout the mod to the 3 speed, maybe I can just bridge it directly on my controller, and not have the wires external... probably don't need much more than those.

So to clarify, the Luna cyclone kit comes with a different mounting adapter that does already go straight to the motor?... I guess it's my fault for not looking into this myself, but I had specifically asked in this thread whether or not SBP's kit had a different mount than Luna's, and had been told it was the same.

I'm gonna look into attempting that "side plate mod" of yours... Guess I need to grab a plate of aluminum. I actually have a brand new Bosch angle grinder I bought a few months ago, with a pretty large amount of addons.... I suppose not the most ideal tool for that kind of round cut, but I'm hoping I can manage something close that'll work. Definitely wish that mount I found for $100 was still available... that honestly looked pretty legit compared to the stock, and I would say the price is fair for what goes into making something like that, that is not mass produced. Would be great if Luna, or anyone, sold an upgraded mount.... even the 2 main mount plates seem rather weak to me, I wouldn't mind having a beefed up pair of those, among other mods.
 
I have my new Cyclone installed with a Luna 72v battery and Luna's 72v Kelly controller wired and programmed for the Cyclone and Luna thumb throttle with voltage gauge on it. Based off of my Calculations it is spinning about 450 rpm, full throttle at 25mph. I have had the bike to 32 but based my calculations off of what gear it is in to top out at 25 to reduce wind resistance/max speed variations etc.
Can anyone please help compare their rpm! I spent hours going through all these posts and thought my motor would spin 600-700rpm based off others speeds and gearing. Here is a killer speed calculator, all you have to do is put in all gearing and tire info and guess different rpms until the speed comes close to what you do in that gear. If you put it in a gear that would cause you to top out at 25mph that would be even better for comparison sake.

https://www.electricscooterparts.com/motor-jackshaft-wheel-gear-ratio.html

PS my 72v battery was about 79v 14t-motor driving 47t, 48t inner ring driving 20t on the cassette turning a 26.5 tire and it tops out about 25mph which came to 450 rpm.

Any insight or info anyone can give is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 
While I'm cleaning up the wiring on this controller... I'm thinking about upgrading some of the large capacitors (as previously brought up, the Capacitors are kinda shitty on this controller).

From a quick inspection, looking at the larger cylindrical capacitors, I see:
3 x 80v 470uf 16x25mm (the 3 largest)
3 x 25v 220uF (the 3 second to largest)
3 x 50v 47uF (the 3rd largest... smallest of the capacitors I'm looking at)

Currently, I'm primarily concerned with the three 80v capacitors... since they appear to take the input voltage, and since I'm going to be running a 20s pack... 80v is barely enough (arguably, not enough). I'm not sure about the other ones, as far as how important they are to upgrade... I assume based on their voltage capabilities, and the controllers, they do not take the full voltage that the battery supplies the controller. If anyone knows more about this, please let me know... as of right now, I'm just thinking about upgrading the 3 large ones... but if its a good idea to upgrade the other ones, I may do those as well.

Has anyone done this before?... can you recommend a specific capacitor to replace these with? (I'm thinking at least a 100v would be good... not sure what else I should be worried about with regards to the specs... obviously I plan to stick with the same 470uF capacitance, and at least the same 105C max temp, if not better if available... and of course it also needs to fit)
 
Regarding the 3-speed connector, it's not something the CA can control because by default, when nothing is connected to the 3-speed connector, the middle speed is selected. That means that even if you send a full throttle signal to the controller, it will be limited to the middle speed. You'll have to figure out which 2 wires to short in order to enable speed 3. And yes you can leave that inside. That's actually what the black loop of wire on my board is for.

If you add a CA connector via that method, how are you going to calibrate the CA to the shunt? You would need a device that can measure the current so that you can compare its reading against the CA's. If you get a CA shunt, you won't have to worry about calibration.

http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/ca-accessories/shunts/shunt-raw.html

http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/ca-accessories/shunts/shunt-ca3.html

Yes, the brackets that come with the Luna Cycle Cyclone 3000 are upgraded, and they hold the ends of the motor so that you won't need to make any reinforcements. They are also working on a custom bracket that should be available soon. It will be available in different lengths so that people can mount the motor in their triangle if they wanted to.

Regarding the caps, I wouldn't spend time/money upgrading them unless you have problems. There are many here that run 20s packs on the stock controller.

progrock said:
Robocam, thank you for the reply, and I love the super clean controller wiring you got there.

OK, I was wondering about the jumper for maximum speed... I kinda expected that the Cycle Analyst would be able to do that without the jumper... or possibly even the bluetooth connectivity could also provide that ability without the need of a jumper (but I have not looked into either yet, not even sure what options the bluetooth will give me). As for which 2 wires it is on the 40A bluetooth controller.... I'm not even sure if there is ANY difference between the normal 40A controller and the Bluetooth controller (Again, I could be totally wrong here), but it sorta appears that the "bluetooth" functionality is an add-on module connected to the controller externally (then again, maybe the non bluetooth doesn't even have the connector the module goes to, I'm just assuming they are the same because there is an external bluetooth module on my controller).

As I mentioned, I'm planning to mod my controller to add the 6 pin Cycle Analyst connector (using this walk through: http://www.ebikeschool.com/add-cycle-analyst-connector-controller/ ). Your response about the throttle wires pointed something out I had overlooked... in the process of cleaning up this controller's wiring, and adding the CA plug, there may be a few chances to simply utilize a wire from one of the connector/wire groups I'm cleaning up. Obviously the throttle is one, I'll have to check the others. But, that actually may slightly mess up my plans.... I was thinking about using some shielded signal wire I have, it's 8 x 22 gauge pure copper wire, shielded, and wrapped in white PVC. I've been using it to upgrade/clean up the wiring of my most recent custom 3D printer build... tho it's really intended to be used for wiring inside the walls of a house/building, but I think it should be fine for this. It's technically 8 strands, but I was just going to pull out 2, so it would be the 6 I need. Looks like I could remove the majority of the wires from the controller... of course leaving the power and phase wires, the other motor connector wires (hall, etc), the bluetooth connector wires, and the 6 wires for the CA connector. I'll have to checkout the mod to the 3 speed, maybe I can just bridge it directly on my controller, and not have the wires external... probably don't need much more than those.

So to clarify, the Luna cyclone kit comes with a different mounting adapter that does already go straight to the motor?... I guess it's my fault for not looking into this myself, but I had specifically asked in this thread whether or not SBP's kit had a different mount than Luna's, and had been told it was the same.

I'm gonna look into attempting that "side plate mod" of yours... Guess I need to grab a plate of aluminum. I actually have a brand new Bosch angle grinder I bought a few months ago, with a pretty large amount of addons.... I suppose not the most ideal tool for that kind of round cut, but I'm hoping I can manage something close that'll work. Definitely wish that mount I found for $100 was still available... that honestly looked pretty legit compared to the stock, and I would say the price is fair for what goes into making something like that, that is not mass produced. Would be great if Luna, or anyone, sold an upgraded mount.... even the 2 main mount plates seem rather weak to me, I wouldn't mind having a beefed up pair of those, among other mods.
Click to expand...
 
robocam, thank you again for the information. Of course I was originally going to order the shunt for the CA when I ordered it... but after reading that how to, and there being no mention of it being needed there (would think there would be a note on the how to... the way it's described is as if when done, it's just as good as having a CA connector from the start). I'm going to read into this more... and see if I can find something locally (or from amazon, or somewhere that I don't have to pay for shipping from Canada)... if not, I'll have to order from them again.

Would be great if Luna released their new mount soon... but I don't plan on waiting to get this motor on the bike... BUT can always upgrade later. I guess the one saving grace is that Luna still doesn't have the kit in stock (I had been waiting for ~3 months... then someone recommended SBP's for the kit, and I was told it had the same mounting bracket as Luna... which was definitely confusing when I first looked at how the bracket attached in person.. though I was sent the wrong size at first). Even their current bracket looks much better, considering it goes directly to the motor... but if they have a custom one specific to your BB size coming soon... that sounds like it'll be a step up, hopefully not too expensive... that $100 one would have been nice if it was still available.

As for the capacitors.. well, it really would not be much work, and they aren't that expensive... but I guess I can hold off for now.

BTW, is that 1/8" aluminum piece you used for your custom mount really only 2" wide?... maybe my eyes are playing tricks on me.. but seems a little wider.
 
ROBOCAM, I'm kinda confused about 1 part of your plate mod. Why are you taking 1/4" x 3/8" spacers and putting them in 3/8" x 1/2".... Why would you not just get 1/4" x 1/2" in the first place?... I'm so confused.
 
Robo

Regarding the caps, I wouldn't spend time/money upgrading them unless you have problems. There are many here that run 20s packs on the stock controller.
Click to expand...

In some cross chat with Gman I said I was running 20S. The 20S battery was incorrect as I am running 21S. I got the 3S pack by splitting a 6S pack. That gives me 84v max. No problems here.

see:


Repacking LiPo's to close-in on your Controllers Max Voltage

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=69867&start=1900#p1268222
 
Oh I just used that because that's what I found at Lowes. Menards has some that are like the ones you describe. The main idea is to keep the end of the motor secured. How you do it can vary, and different bottom bracket widths will require different spacers.

progrock said:
ROBOCAM, I'm kinda confused about 1 part of your plate mod. Why are you taking 1/4" x 3/8" spacers and putting them in 3/8" x 1/2".... Why would you not just get 1/4" x 1/2" in the first place?... I'm so confused.
Click to expand...
 
OK, just wanted to confirm that... wasn't sure if I was somehow misinterpreting what you did. And yes, I know different widths will require different spacers/bolts. My BB is 73mm, so I plan to put together the motor/mount with the stock parts... get a feel for the size, then start figuring out what I can do, and what I'll need to beef up my mount. Using both your example and Dingus' to hopefully figure out something similar. Also considering getting some titanium bolts.... their prices have gone down recently, not much more expensive than steel.... and I figure the extra strength and corrosion resistance won't hurt (and while I know it won't be by much, they will also be a little but lighter... but the strength + corrosion resistance is my main reason for considering them).

I'm going to try to work out a plan for my setup, then will probably post it here it see if anyone can point out potential flaws in... then I'll just have to make it happen, and hopefully it'll all work out.
 
Don't get titanium fasteners unless you want to throw money away. Especially bargain basement Chinese. They probably won't be stronger, will save practically zero weight in terms of the whole bike build, and you can just use stainless to get corrosion resistance for less money. Let's be honest the only real reason to have them is to feel good about the badass material on your bike / brag, but at that point you're like "yo I have titanium" while rocking a cheap chinese industrial motor and even cheaper powertrain accessories on a non-exotic frame... :D
 
Flat tire says, correctly, that Ti is not as strong as steel used in fasteners. But there's more.

Ti suffers galvanic corrosion when used with other metals, and it suffers surface galling when used with many other metals and worst of all with other titanium parts. Look up "Ti paste" to see what measures you must take to make titanium fasteners workable. It's just a terrible, terrible choice for screws and nuts, exceeded only maybe by aluminum.

Alloy steel makes the strongest commonly used bolts. Stainless isn't nearly as strong, but it has other advantages. Either one beats any other material you can think of for that job.

Consider this: in aircraft, any bit of weight savings results in more payload and more profit. But aircraft use AN fasteners, which are a not unusually strong but very consistent and thoroughly characterized type of steel fastener with cadmium plating. They're very expensive due to fastidious record keeping. Why would they use steel if a significantly lighter titanium fastener worked just as well?
 
I appreciate the info on titanium... and to be clear, if I were to get titanium bolts, it would be Grade 5 titanium, which I'm pretty sure is considerably stronger than steel alloys (tho could be wrong)... I'm aware that Grade 2 Ti would be pointless. And, again weight really has nothing to do with it... it would be strength/corrosion resistance.... but gonna have to read into galvanic corrosion (did not know Ti suffered this... I remember a couple of my mechanic friends bringing it up with regards to mixing certain metals... I forget which they were talking about, possibly aluminum and steel, or something like that). And as for the cost difference.... it's really not much anymore, when it comes to small quantities (ie. if I only need 1-2 of a certain bolt size, a lot of the time the price is comparable to steel.... of course when buying 20-100 of the same bolt that is not true... but with a custom mount, there are a few large bolts that I only need 1-2).

Anyway, thanks for the info, will do some more research on the subject.... was really just thinking about using a few for the large bolts in the mount... and not cheap chinese low grade Ti. But if galvanic corrosion is an issue... and if steel alloys truly are comparable in strenght, guess it wouldn't make sense. But either way, I'm going to read into this a little... Titanium is going to be more and more popular in the coming years, considering it's abundance naturally, advancements in smelting and tooling techniques, and for it's positive aspects.... strength, weight, corrosion resistance (apparently this one is only when not mixed with certain metals) etc.
 
Robocam, you mentioned activating the high speed mode required jumping 2 wires on the 3 speed controller. This has been posted all over the place on forums and videos.... BUT... you said the blue and black wires... every single other place I have looked says it's the pink and black wires. The black wire is GND, so obviously 1 of the 2 needs to be tied to ground to activate the high speed mode (unless you are both right, and you just need to connect either to GND to achieve this). Either way... seems like everyone else says it's the pink.... where did you get the info to do the blue wire?

Also, SOME people (I believe I saw gman did this in a post in the thread) actually put a resistor between the 2, not just a wire. Can anyone chime in on this, does it matter whether its just a solid wire or if a pull down resistor has some benefit over a solid wire in this case?

Either way, I'm going to remove the connector and just solder in a small wire to connect whichever one is the correct one to ground (and if it makes sense, throw a resister in there....)
 
Hey robocam, I actually wasn't even looking for this at the time, but just stumbled upon a very relevant video. It's a short video describing a technique to measure/calculate the shunt resistance on a controller, in order to calibrate a CA. It's pretty hilarious that I just stumbled upon this when looking up something unrelated.... on top of that, I literally just received an iCharger i purchased a few days ago, was unaware of the "foam cutting" feature... but apparently I have exactly what I need to do this, and it solves one of my current problems with the install (and pretty happy I don't need to use an external shunt to calibrate my CA correctly... now I can add the 6 pin connector, and be good to go).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okpFsoHNE7I

I will say, it seems bit weird/sketchy to pump 10amps through the controller "backwards"... seems like it could be dangerous... but it seems like this guy does it to every controller he makes/sells, and doesn't seem to cause any problems for him.

Also, I know you guys said not to waste my time upgrading the main capacitors on the controller, that the stock ones will suffice... but considering I'm already modding the controller (removed about half of the wires/connectors already... also gonna bridge the 3 speed directly on the controller, since I removed the connect, just need to confirm whether it is the blue or pink wire that needs to go to ground... as well as add the 6 pin CA wires/connector)... and while the stock capacitors apparently will function with a 20s pack, I've heard that when capacitors are ran near their peak V, they tend to leak, among other negative effects. I added a few 100v capacitors to an order from Arrow (they are only ~$1.50 a piece, so not very expensive)... I ordered 2 different (tho similar) capacitors. Both are 470uF 100V, just one is considered "Low ESR" while the other is a more or less standard capacitor. From what I understand, the Low ESR Capacitors should be preferred in this situation.... but if I got that wrong, I have the others that'll do the job (Can anyone confirm that the Low ESR ones are the better choice here?). The other benefit to the Low ESR capacitors, is they have a significantly higher lifetime, speced at 8000h... while I believe the other ones were 2000h (which seemed to be by far the most common lifetime rating). I figure for $5, and a few extra minutes of my time... it's worth upgrading the capacitors before something potentially goes wrong. I'm also debating on beefing up the main traces on the board with some bare solid copper wire I have (as shown in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JIXnt6bn0Q&t=215s )... I know it's not really necessary, but seems like it might not be a bad idea.
 
How the heck are you taking the controller apart and removing all that stuff but you can't figure out if a wire goes to ground?
 
Umm, what?... I'm asking which of the 2 wires are supposed to go to ground in order to enable high speed mode. Withotu a running controller, or any documentation, it's 50/50 guess. And Robocam said 1 color... while it seems like everywhere else says the other.
 
You can find out really easily yourself by switching, there are only 2 possibilities (third is unconnected).

In other news I finally got this thing working sensorless with my powervelocity. It's working great and there's plenty of torque even from a dead stop.
 
I ran your test on my bike with cyclone 3000, stock 40amp controller, and 18s LiPo. To limit full throttle speed to 25 my gearing was; 14t motor, 44/44t lunatic crank, 28t rear cog. Plugging that into your supplied calculator gives me around 635rpm motor speed. I too have the kelly controller for the cyclone and i couldn't figure out how to get the power out of it, always felt weak.....so i went back to the $40 stock one.

Scott76308 said:
I have my new Cyclone installed with a Luna 72v battery and Luna's 72v Kelly controller wired and programmed for the Cyclone and Luna thumb throttle with voltage gauge on it. Based off of my Calculations it is spinning about 450 rpm, full throttle at 25mph. I have had the bike to 32 but based my calculations off of what gear it is in to top out at 25 to reduce wind resistance/max speed variations etc.
Can anyone please help compare their rpm! I spent hours going through all these posts and thought my motor would spin 600-700rpm based off others speeds and gearing. Here is a killer speed calculator, all you have to do is put in all gearing and tire info and guess different rpms until the speed comes close to what you do in that gear. If you put it in a gear that would cause you to top out at 25mph that would be even better for comparison sake.

https://www.electricscooterparts.com/motor-jackshaft-wheel-gear-ratio.html

PS my 72v battery was about 79v 14t-motor driving 47t, 48t inner ring driving 20t on the cassette turning a 26.5 tire and it tops out about 25mph which came to 450 rpm.

Any insight or info anyone can give is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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I have 2 stock 40A Cyclone controllers, and the wires for the 3-speed connector are different. On the one I purchased in July this year, the 3-speed connector wires are black, white and blue/white. If I were to guess, you should go with the pink and black you've found, and like flat tire mentioned, all you have to do is try all the combinations. That's how I did it.

progrock said:
Robocam, you mentioned activating the high speed mode required jumping 2 wires on the 3 speed controller. This has been posted all over the place on forums and videos.... BUT... you said the blue and black wires... every single other place I have looked says it's the pink and black wires. The black wire is GND, so obviously 1 of the 2 needs to be tied to ground to activate the high speed mode (unless you are both right, and you just need to connect either to GND to achieve this). Either way... seems like everyone else says it's the pink.... where did you get the info to do the blue wire?

Also, SOME people (I believe I saw gman did this in a post in the thread) actually put a resistor between the 2, not just a wire. Can anyone chime in on this, does it matter whether its just a solid wire or if a pull down resistor has some benefit over a solid wire in this case?

Either way, I'm going to remove the connector and just solder in a small wire to connect whichever one is the correct one to ground (and if it makes sense, throw a resister in there....)
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