Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

The post about the Sinewave Silence Silent being More Torque
Been kicking around my brain

Justin_le has got a post about that
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=65031&p=1197760&hilit=FOC+more+torque#p1197760
 
If I wanted to achieve ~45mph @ 72v nominal with a 20 inch rim, that would be approximately 730RPM loaded, right? What would that be, 4T?

EDIT: This is a big thread to read, but what do I need to do to make sure I get a version which can take a freewheel cassette?
 
Do you want a freewheel, or a cassette? They're two different things.

Freewheel ahs threads, cassette has splines.

Ask the vendor for a good picture of that side of the motor before you order, since they won't likely have a clue which is which.
 
My apologies, I saw a post ealier in the thread which mentioned they had a "freewheeling cassette", and thought to ask about it. It appeared they were shipping retrofits for putting cassettes onto older cassette-less motors?

Cassette is definitely preferable. I'll make sure to clarify. Seems to me they would benefit from having some "options" on their ordering page, rather than making every motor a one-off.
 
Ecky said:
My apologies, I saw a post ealier in the thread which mentioned they had a "freewheeling cassette", and thought to ask about it. It appeared they were shipping retrofits for putting cassettes onto older cassette-less motors?

Cassette is definitely preferable. I'll make sure to clarify. Seems to me they would benefit from having some "options" on their ordering page, rather than making every motor a one-off.

Splined version for cassette

Threaded version for freewheel
 
So I burned one of these Leafs out after a few hundred miles of 200 phase amps max, 80 amps @ 80 volts battery. Not sure which winding but it went 60 mph. Running a second motor but of course it's different KV and doesn't go 50+ so it will be necessary to really turn down the phase current unless I want to throw away another $350. :(

Anyone else burn one of these out lately?
 
200 phase amps max, 80 amps @ 80 volts battery. Not sure which winding but it went 60 mph

For 60-MPH and 80A X 80V = 6400W, I would go straight to the QS 205/50H V3. It would provide more torque at those input watts, and I suspect it might last the rest of your life...

Even the MXUS Turbo3K would do better than the Leafbike. Here are the widths of the stators (and indicator of magnet power and copper mass)

35mm___Leafbike
45mm___MXUS
50mm___QS 205
 
I push my poor little Leaf motor at about 6KW, but I have active fan forced air cooling, Ferro Fluid, and Heat-sinks to shed all the heat when I do crank it up and I do regularly hit 140C before it rapidly cools off.
Most of the time it's cruising at 2-3KW though which the cooling can keep up with and keep temps well below 80C.

If you gonna push a '1500W' motor at 6KW you better be prepared to cool it well. :)

Cheers
 
Yeah I have a QS205 running at 120 volts 150 amps battery. It's faster than the leaf :D

The phase current + low speed trail riding over obstacles is what killed my Leaf not the 6kw. I would rarely use the 6kw anyway. Just in short bursts.
 
Just got a 1500w 5T and a em3ev 18fet controller. I haven't done any controller programming yet... I have a cycle analyst v3, but I only get an odometer reading through the speed sensor on the CA. Can't the hall sensors give me a reading instead? If I run the motor without moving the front wheel I get no speed reading. Also, I have a 14s9p of 30q cells and I only had 48.9v when I tested but I set the CA to 60A and my max speed was only 43kph on 26" rims. This seems way too slow. Is this because the controller needs programming or am I missing something.

My motor also seems to have regen on when I release the throttle. I don't want this... I want to the regen to be activated when I hit the brake instead. I have a magnetic brake cutoff sensor.

What's up? Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
 
Hi Dave,

the hall sensors can give you a reading but the cycle analyst needs to be configured if you have a CA-DPS (with speed sensor). See the manual:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37964&start=225#p571345

Your top speed should definitely be more than 43 kph on a 26 inch tire. For reference I also have the 5T leaf and my max speed is around 53 kph @ 52V on a 26 inch tire Here is the simulator:
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?bopen=false&motor=Leaf%205T&batt=B5213_GA&cont=C40
Your wheel size may need to be adjusted in the cycle analyst or the default speed percentage (for a 3 speed switch) needs to be set to 100% on the controller. I think it defaults to speed #2.

I had the same experience with regen when I released the throttle, that also needs to be programmed. Look for "SlipChargeMode" in the software. I suggest getting the documentation for the software from em3ev.
 
pwd said:
Hi Dave,

Your top speed should definitely be more than 43 kph on a 26 inch tire. For reference I also have the 5T leaf and my max speed is around 53 kph @ 52V on a 26 inch tire

Your wheel size may need to be adjusted in the cycle analyst or the default speed percentage (for a 3 speed switch) needs to be set to 100% on the controller. I think it defaults to speed #2.

I had the same experience with regen when I released the throttle, that also needs to be programmed. Look for "SlipChargeMode" in the software. I suggest getting the documentation for the software from em3ev.

I fixed the "slipchargemode" issue and everything is ok on that front. Now I just need to play with the settings on the infineon controller. Would it be possible to get a copy of what you have your settings at?
 
Would you guys still get this motor over the Grin M2707RD (currently out of stock though)

The grin has the same 0.35mm laminations and also a weight of only 6.1kg somehow

http://www.ebikes.ca/m2707rd.html
 
tolkaNo said:
Would you guys still get this motor over the Grin M2707RD (currently out of stock though)

The grin has the same 0.35mm laminations and also a weight of only 6.1kg somehow

http://www.ebikes.ca/m2707rd.html

With 27mm stator it is a different power class.
 
Is it worth it to get the 35mm stator and gain an extra kg over the 30mm stator hub?

Is the weight penalty worth the gain for about a 2100w system?
 
Is it worth it?...it depends...

If you are using a 1,000W MXUS with the aluminum stator-core, and it is providing the performance that you want while staying cool enough that it isn't in danger of overheating, then...there is no need to upgrade to a heavier or more expensive hubmotor. However, there are clear steps in the sizes and power capabilities of the hubmotors that are readily available.

The biggest problem to figuring out what will work for you is finding an ebike with a power system that is close to what you envision, and then test-riding it on a loop that has similar hills to your intended rides back home.

I always recommend that..in the absence of any specifically stated desires, an ebiker who is new to the hobby should get a system that is capable of more power than you "think" you will need.
 
Just depends on your power needs.
27mm stator width versus 35mm stator width is a pretty big difference in how much copper, magnet, and steel there is to produce power. Think of it as comparing a 2.7L engine to a 3.5... except in this case, the 2.7L engine is lighter.. but not proportionally lighter.

You can play with ebikes.ca's simulator to bench race both of these motors before you decide what to buy. I agree with spinningmagnets, in that if this is your first kit, it's probably best to buy a larger motor than you think you need. The need for speed usually creeps up on you.
 
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