Using the Wangdd22 1500W 30A DC Boost Converter on an ebike

Cool. It will be interesting to see if it helps on the hills. What I'm sure of is that it can improve speed on the flats. I'm less sure about improving hill climbing. Did check it on the Grin motor simulator?
 
I just got mine and I have a quick question. I know what input and output voltage adjustments are for but it has that 3rd variable resistor that is labeled "CC". Is this for max current ?
Thanks in advance.
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
I just got mine and I have a quick question. I know what input and output voltage adjustments are for but it has that 3rd variable resistor that is labeled "CC". Is this for max current ?
Thanks in advance.
otherDoc

Not sure if yours is the same unit as I've been looking at, but on that one the third pot is for setting the low voltage cutoff of the input.
 
docnjoj said:
I just got mine and I have a quick question. I know what input and output voltage adjustments are for but it has that 3rd variable resistor that is labeled "CC". Is this for max current ?
Thanks in advance.
otherDoc

It is a current limiter. The instructions suggest setting it low to start. I had completely forgotten about this adjustment because limiting current was not on my agenda. :^)

I'm going to copy/past below, the text file I have that includes all the documentation I found on the booster.

............................................................................................................................
1500W 30A DC-DC Power Converter Boost Module Step-up Constant Power Supply Module 10V-60V to 12V-90V LED Boost Module With Fan
Features:
The power supply module uses double sendust magnets winded with 1.2mm copper wires.
100V/210A low resistance MOS with big power and current input, suitable for big power LED, motors.
Support reverse input protection with MOS so there is no worry about wrong input wire and burn out power supply.
Low voltage protection will protect module and battery against damage from over-discharge when use a storage battery as input.
Thickened heatsink and intelligent temperature control cooling fan dissipate heat better.

Specifications:
Type: Non-isolated step-up module (BOOST)
Input Voltage: DC10V to 60V
Max. Input Current: 30A(input voltage 10V to 30V)
25A(input voltage 31V to 60V)
Quiescent Current: 15mA(will increase when convert 12V to 20V)
Output Voltage: 12V to 90V (adjustable, default is 19V)
Max. Output Current: 20A (related to the input and output voltage difference, the greater voltage difference is, the smaller output current will be. please enhance heat dissipation when current is over 15A)
Constant Current Range: 0.8A to 20A(+/-0.3A)
Reverse Input Protection: Yes (150A MOS)
Lower Voltage Protection: Yes (V8 to 50V adjustable, self-recovery)
Operating Temperature: - 40℃ to +85 ℃(if temperature is too high, please enhance heat dissipation)
Frequency: 150KHz
Conversion Efficiency: 92% to 97% (Efficiency is related to input/output voltage, current and voltage difference. The smaller difference is, the higher efficiency will be)
Input Over-current Protection: Yes (automatically protect when input is more than 35A, and power supply voltage will not increase)
Short Circuit Protection: Yes(input 30A fuse)
Wiring Method: Terminals(please use large current copper wire)
Max. Output Power = Input Voltage*Max Current (If input 12V, the max output power=12V*30A = 360W)
Size:130 x 84 x 52mm / 5.11 x 3.3 x 2.04"

Instruction:
Voltage Adjustment:
Power on module while not connect to load, then adjust "V-ADJ" potentiometer clockwise to increase, counterclockwise to decrease. Due to large output capacitance capacity, response will be slow when adjust high voltage to low voltage.
Current Adjustment:
Adjust "CC A-ADJ" potentiometer counterclockwise about 30 circles to minimize the output current before connecting to load. Then adjust "CC A-ADJ" clockwise to the current value you need.If you use the module for battery charging, connect to output after battery is fully discharged. Because if the more energy is left in battery, the less charging current will be.
Low Input Voltage Protection Adjustment:
If we set a low input voltage protection for a 12V battery, connect input to a 10V voltage, then adjust RV1(clockwise to increase, counterclockwise to decrease) till UVLO light up. Now the protection voltage is 10V, that is to say, when battery voltage drops to 10V, module won't step up voltage and the output voltage will be same as input voltage.

Note:
1. Output wiring can not be reversed or short circuit.
2, If the module is connected to inductive load, the minimum input voltage should be higher(e.g. 24V) and maximum output power should be lower(e.g. 500W).
3, If a storage battery, switch power supply, solar panel or electric generator is used as input power source, the low voltage protection value should be adjusted lower, otherwise it might cause damage.

Package Includes:
1 x Module
................................................................................................................................
The main advantages:

1, dual power sendust 4 1.2MM of copper wire and Rao. 100V / 210A low resistance power MOS, high-power high-current inputs, suitable for high-power LED, motors
2, an input MOS anti-reverse protection, but do not worry about burn out the power input connector
3, low battery protection when the battery input will not be used over discharge damage to the power module and a battery (
5, thick radiator and intelligent temperature-controlled fan cooling.
Voltage Regulation:
In the case of power load regulation output of "V-ADJ" potentiometer (below have indicated) transfer large clockwise, counterclockwise turn down) using a flathead screwdriver, since the output capacitance is large, the output voltage when transferred to a high voltage low voltage reaction will be relatively slow. Built instrument regulating the magnitude smaller. (Default output voltage adjusted to 19V shipping, we adjusted for other voltages, please note or message)
Current Regulation:
Counterclockwise tune "CC A-ADJ" potentiometer 30 laps or so, the output current is set to a minimum, batteries and other connected LED load, clockwise tune "CC A-ADJ" potentiometer to the desired current. After the battery for charging, the battery fully discharged, and then to output, adjust the CC A-ADJ to your current required for charging must use a battery completely discharged before being allowed to adjust, because the battery is remaining the more power, the charging current is smaller. The default output adjusted 3A shipments. For we adjusted the current value of the note or message tone. Do not adjust the current output by way of a short circuit, the circuit structure of the booster module can not be adjusted by way of a short circuit,
.............................................................................................
How does the low battery voltage protection potentiometer work?
Answer: Hi,
Low battery protection, mainly for the input power for the battery to prevent excessive battery, battery voltage is too low, damage to the power module and battery input is switching power supply, also set low voltage protection:
Method 1. Need to have voltage regulating power supply, such as setting 12V battery, low battery protection. A screwdriver is adjusted with RV1 voltage is connected with a 10V power supply module in the input (clockwise voltage adjustable high voltage protection, counter clockwise until the UVLO lights can be reduced), the protection of low voltage battery is 10V, when the battery voltage drops to 10V power module does not rise (input voltage is equal to the output only when the input voltage is higher than the voltage) 10V power boost auto recovery.
Method two: input, connected to the battery or switch power supply, if the board of UVLO lights are out, counter clockwise RV1 potentiometer, the UVLO light tune, light up, and then turn clockwise two laps can be. If the UVLO lamp is lit, a clockwise RV1 potentiometer, the UVLO lights off, tune out then turn two laps. (adapted to 8V-45V voltage) see less
By wangdd22 SELLER on June 2, 2017
..............................................................
Input Low battery protection regulation:

Mainly for low battery protection when the input power to the battery to prevent battery over-discharge, the battery voltage is too low damage to the power module and battery. Such as setting 12V battery low battery protection. Input power module in a termination voltage of 10V RV1 adjusted using a flathead screwdriver (clockwise protection voltage value increase, counterclockwise to reduce voltage protection) until the UVLO lights can, at this low voltage battery protection to 10V, when the battery when the voltage drops to 10V power supply module does not rise (input voltage equal to the output voltage) only after the input voltage is higher than 10V power boost from recovery to start.
.................................................................................
 
That is very helpful wturber. Mine came with no instructions. There are also some on good old youtube that were helpful as well.
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
That is very helpful wturber. Mine came with no instructions. There are also some on good old youtube that were helpful as well.
otherDoc

That's collected info from that Amazon page and other sources that were selling what appeared to be the same item. I received no instructions either. :^)
 
The lack of instructions is simply part of the Chinese plot to rule the world. I will say however that their electronics knowledge and quality has vastly improved over the years.
otherDoc
 
36v to/ 60v should be about 92% efficient not bad considering the benefit
Curious just how many mph was gained on the flats using the Booster ?

Quote from spec sheet ~ Conversion Efficiency: 92% to 97% (Efficiency is related to input/output voltage, current and voltage difference. The smaller difference is, the higher efficiency will be
 
eCue said:
36v to/ 60v should be about 92% efficient not bad considering the benefit
Curious just how many mph was gained on the flats using the Booster ?

Quote from spec sheet ~ Conversion Efficiency: 92% to 97% (Efficiency is related to input/output voltage, current and voltage difference. The smaller difference is, the higher efficiency will be

Finding flat ground is tough for me. But I'll see about perhaps doing a test tomorrow on my commute. Maybe I'll do the no-load test tonight.

Using peak wattage measurements on the battery side and the converter side of 1250 and 1175 respectively, the efficiency looks to be about 94% at peak current draw. Not sure if it would be better or worse at other levels of current draw.
 
I have one bike with a 36 volt system. It has a old Goldenmotor FePo4 rackmount 12 aHr battery pack and a Bafang SXWU motor . Works fine but I notice the top end drop off as the voltage drops from the 42 volt nominal full charge. I am thinking of getting one of these just to keep to nominal voltage at 42 volts ... or perhaps a bit more if the controller does not object.
 
LewTwo said:
I have one bike with a 36 volt system. It has a old Goldenmotor FePo4 rackmount 12 aHr battery pack and a Bafang SXWU motor . Works fine but I notice the top end drop off as the voltage drops from the 42 volt nominal full charge. I am thinking of getting one of these just to keep to nominal voltage at 42 volts ... or perhaps a bit more if the controller does not object.

Well, if you aren't using regen/e-braking and you don't mind a 5% drop or so in efficiency, it might be fun to try it out.
 
wturber said:
eCue said:
36v to/ 60v should be about 92% efficient not bad considering the benefit
Curious just how many mph was gained on the flats using the Booster ?

Quote from spec sheet ~ Conversion Efficiency: 92% to 97% (Efficiency is related to input/output voltage, current and voltage difference. The smaller difference is, the higher efficiency will be

Finding flat ground is tough for me. But I'll see about perhaps doing a test tomorrow on my commute. Maybe I'll do the no-load test tonight.

Using peak wattage measurements on the battery side and the converter side of 1250 and 1175 respectively, the efficiency looks to be about 94% at peak current draw. Not sure if it would be better or worse at other levels of current draw.

I will be testing at some point when Im up and running , if you do get a chance post the results Im super curious..
Using the ebike.ca calculator it shows in my case I would lose10kmh off the top end ( on paper )
As the 2nd controller I ordered supports both 36 and 48v will be for sure picking up a some sets of the 4.4AH batteries and a boost converter to spank them with :D
Could run them at 36v for cross country runs when distance takes priority over rider comfort. It would be handy using a potentiometer attached to the handlebars for running tests and on the fly boost control.
 
In case anyone else is thinking about using the cheaper 36v packs there are sets of shrink wrapped 36v 4.4AH packs on ebay for $58 us each , picked up 2 packs for a 2nd battery

Built with Samsung cells with a xt60 connector

timthumb.php


The seller offers two versions the cheaper $45 pack is using LG cells (shorter life span)

36V Li-Ion Battery pack is made of 20pcs 2200mAh Li-Ion 18650

Nominal Voltage: 36V
Nominal Capacity: 4400mAh
Cell: Samsung SDI 18650-22P
Assembly: 10S2P
Category:Li-ion Battery
Voltage : Peak - 42V, working - 36V
Capacity: 4.4Ah
Power: 158W
Cut-off voltage: 26V
Max. discharging current: 30amp
Max Continuous Discharging Amperage: 20 Amps
Rated Discharging Amperage: 15 Amps
Charging Current: <5 Amps
Charging Voltage: 43.2 Volts
Dimension: 135*95*60mm
Net Weight: 970g
 
"No load" (free spinning wheel) speed with boost converter at 54 v = 42.7mph
"No load" (free spinning wheel) speed direct to battery at 41 v = 32.1mph

These numbers match pretty closely to what is predicted for a 9C+ 2706 motor on the Grin Motor Simulator.

I'll see if I can find time at lunch to take the bike on an all out speed run with with and without booster. The battery pack would be a bit more than half full then with a voltage of around 39v.
 
Do you notice the difference on hills?
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
Do you notice the difference on hills?
otherDoc

I hadn't really thought about it earlier, but I can't do a "proper" test at 36v because I don't have a 36v controller. Any results running 42 volts through a 48 volt controller could be compromised if the voltage sag exceeds the low voltage cutoff - though it might be fun to document that. I'd really need a 36v controller or 36v/48v combo controller in order to do a proper comparison for speed or hill climbing.
 
I will run the tests in 5 or 6 weeks and make video of the event complete with gps overlay using a little sony action cam. I have a few long flat roads to run tests on. Some pretty long hills too..
 
Well I guess I'll have to join the test group. I have a 36 volt 17 amp controller that has 60 volt caps and 75 volt mosfets so it should be OK for 50 or so volts. I also have a 36 volt battery. As the weather here is terrible (40F and rain) I have to wait a few days until the sun comes out. It always does.
otherDoc
 
FWIW, I did try to do a run last night direct to the battery but with the batter at 39 volts, but the battery sagged below the controller's 38v cuttoff and I couldn't really get going. It might be possible to do this with a fresh 42v charge.
 
Well I ordered one as well but I ordered from ebay to be delivered via slow boat from china ... I am in no hurry as I already have enough projects on the back burner (I need to get more back burners).

https://www.ebay.com/itm//172996341616
 
Test postponed! 33degrees F and snow. I ain't going out there! Where is global warming when we really need it?
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
Test postponed! 33degrees F and snow. I ain't going out there! Where is global warming when we really need it?
otherDoc
The weatherman was mistaken (I am trying to be polite). He said is was supposed to be warmer last night. I looked at the temperature at 3 AM and it said 30 degrees. That is coming your way Doc.

Question: How cold is it ?
Answer: It is so cold that I put a pot of coffee in the refrigerator to keep it warm.
 
I received my 1200W boost converter last week and got it installed on my bicycle, for the info I going from 24V to 36V on a 500W motor. I had a few issues in the process so I thought I would share it for the people who want to use a converter as well.
So on the first test I wasn't getting any output voltage and I have spent a long time trying to figure out what was going on. After looking closely at the converter I realized that a component on the input side was not soldered properly, after soldering it it solved the problem. Screen Shot 2017-12-10 at 2.35.23 PM.png
I then installed the converter on the bike and set the output voltage to 39.6V and at first the wheel was turning very slowly. I solved that by increasing the output current to almost max and now the wheel turns just fine.
I also set the low voltage cut off on the input side to the maximum because the BMS of my battery will shut down the battery in case of low voltage so I don't need it on the converter.
I still need to do a proper road test and see how it works but the weather is not great here either...
 

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Thanks that info could be useful for mine as well.
otherDoc
 
The second one finally showed up from China so I paid for it. Banggood was quick with the refund when we thought it got lost in the mail, whic it did. Only 1.33 months to deliver.
otherDoc
 
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