Studded Tires?

My Homemade Medley

Top picture - 3/8" screws for the inner rows and 1/2" screws for the outer rows seems to be perfect ... for these tires and my needs.
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^ + [number of screws] 8)

T'is a work of art there! If only we had titanium screws or some other carbon-steel equivalent.

Do you use a tire liner on the inside?
Cheers! KF
 
Kingfish said:
^ + [number of screws] 8)

T'is a work of art there! If only we had titanium screws or some other carbon-steel equivalent.

Do you use a tire liner on the inside?
Cheers! KF
Never used a tire liner!
I carefully chose large-low profile headed screws.
Used my most beat up tube, expecting it to rupture.
After it "blew" I was going to slit around the inside, cut out the stem and use it as a liner, put it over a good tube.
But, imagine my surprise, it's held up for 2+ Winters with no problems?

You like my Hedge Hog - 444 Magnum? ... (444 screws)
I did go a bit overboard ...
Even used a "Smart tube", Slime filled with a 5x thickness around the outside-tread area.

I keep the pressure up, and this seems to mate the tube securely against the screws.

Tire pressure?
Remembered another reason I keep my studded tire pressure up.
Took by bike out in the snow, without pumping the pressure back up, back wheel dropped in a hidden pothole and "dinged" the rim.
 
Kingfish said:
T'is a work of art there! If only we had titanium screws or some other carbon-steel equivalent.
You could ask these guys:
http://www.titanium-screws.com/
:lol:
 
DrkAngel said:
Schwalbe Ice Spikers are great! ... For everything. ... Except for clear roads!

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Mud, Snow, Ice ... Wonderful!

However, on concrete, cold hardened blacktop etc, I fear for a lack of traction.
Except on a heavy turn or very low pressure, there is no rubber "hitting the road".

I mainly, take quick "runs" around town ... couple miles per trip.
Personally, I enjoy the compromise of a partially studded tire.
For all around use ... a 33 - 50% studded tread.

Studs and rubber!
I relented!
Mounted up a Schwalbe Ice Spiker.

The never ending cold means the prevalence of "salt snow".
Hopefully, the deep lugs and omnipresent carbide studs can dig through the brownish crud and touch some pavement, or ice.
Of course I still have my homemade, and will swap as advisable ... I just borrowed a wheel off one of my spare eBikes.
 
el_walto said:
Darn, just payed $75 bucks for these, but they are better than the shwalbe ice spikers I've worn out before. http://www.jensonusa.com/Nokian-Extreme-Tire. Side walls are still super thin and crappy like the Schwalbe.

I have Nokian extreme 29'er on my rear wheel and less knobby Schwalbe winter in front. Perhaps I should swap their place, but I don't want my rear wheel to spin out when accelerating on snow. I have lost some 20 studs because sometimes I show off and burn rubber, and maybe I make too tight turns just at edge of loosing traction.
After a long search I managed to find compatible spare studs. Strange how bike shops don't selll then and even the manufacturer of the tyres didn't have them, nor the stud factory). The replacement stud are Nokian studs for spiked shoes, but they are the same studs as in tyres, but 1 mm longer. Bag of 70 studs and a tool was 15 euros.
 
Just thought I'd consolidate pics of my studded tire progression-history.

1st test used only ½" screws.

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More worried about length causing screws to tip, I decided to replace center rows of screws with ⅜".
Perhaps more importantly, this allowed rubber on the road.
Much safer, considering that streets are a mix of ice, snow and clear.
Studs are not ideal for hard cold concrete or asphalt.

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Salt snow was too thick for my whimpy studs so I got drastic!

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Actually inverted tire for precise screw placement.

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Went too far?
Not far enough!!!
Decided to go whole hog ...
The HEDGE HOG ©®

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Used ½" screws for 4 outer rows and ⅜" screws for 2 inner rows. This produced a contact of 12+screws during level travel @ good tire pressure.

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Large, flat headed screws added up weight wise ... became a noticeable factor!

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Outside rows of studs hold up nicely.
Inner rows don't wear so well ...
Just sourced ⅜" and ½" stainless screws with drill points.

The present pointed points have better initial cut into ice but the drill point will wear much better and provide "good" long term "cut" into ice.

Only concern is that the drill point screws have a smaller head which offers reduced stabilization.
Outer rows are fine but inner rows pass through smaller knobbies.
Possible solution might be to use ½" screws and a washer or gasket ...
Will order up ½" screws 1st and evaluate.

⅜" stainless screws with drill points
½" stainless screws with drill points
 

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Getting old ...
Decided to finally mount up one of my Schwalbe Ice Spikers.
Homemade normally work fine, just want something specific for that nasty salt snow crud.
Hopefully the deep wide spaced lugs will push through the crud and hit pavement.
Also, they seem to have a finish that keeps snow from sticking.

I do plan on swapping front tires, dependent on road conditions, Schwalbe to homemade to standard mountain tread.
Thought about going quick release ... but too easy to "lose" an expensive tire when I stop to shop!

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Got 3 of these at eBay Spring time auction couple years ago ... cheap!
Don't recommend trying to purchase (auction) this time of year ... unless from Australia?

Niagara Cycle has reasonable prices - free shipping on $150 order (USA only)
Chain Reaction also ...
Recommend "carbide" studs, "steel" don't last on bare roads!
 
DrkAngel said:
....

I do plan on swapping front tires, dependent on road conditions, Schwalbe to homemade to standard mountain tread.
Thought about going quick release ... but too easy to "lose" an expensive tire when I stop to shop!

...

A couple of years ago the rim collapsed on my rear wheel (front whee drive), the only local replacement was a quick release so I secured it by fastening a jubilee clip (or should I say pipe clip?) over the quick release lever. Not foolproof but worked.
 
Schwalbe Ice Spikers seem a noticeable improvement on salt-snow crud.
Still not great, just bordering towards good, don't know if there is a good solution ...

Ran low on wheels with bolt axle and wide rim.
So, had to replace bearing and inner race of really old wheel with rusty nipples.
Matches the rest of the 9 Winter veteran Snow Beast nicely.
 
Got into the 30s F yesterday, salt-snow crud melted off.
Lots of snow melted ... but froze everywhere at 9ºF overnight.
Schwalbe Ice Spiker (on front) and old Kenda Klondike (on back) handle the ice wonderfully!!!

Please remember though ... studded tires are not a cure for ice and snow.
They just give you a fighting chance!
 
Still planning on using my Schwalbe Ice Spiker (on front) and old Kenda Klondike (on back) this Winter.
But got a few locals excited about building homemade studded tires.
Still have a supply of screws ... I think ... better check.
I'll be recommending my old standby, every 3rd knobby with 4 rows, 3/8" screws on center rows and 1/2" for the outer rows.

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Please remember though ... studded tires are not a cure for ice and snow.
They just give you a fighting chance!

.
 
As you can reduce air pressure and gain traction in 4x4's it probably works with bicycles

.
Presenting the 20 psi death special aka low psi winter death roller better know as
the 3"Maxxis Chronicle
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( corner at your own risk )
 
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