Winterized

It's also fun in the first minutes of a good rain here, cuz it doesnt' happen very often, so when it does it washes a fair bit of oily stuff up into the surface of the water, and makes a hydroplane incident pretty much guaranteed sometime during a trip somewhere.

Thankfully, today I was riding the SB Cruiser trike, so I simply got to have fun drifting my turns rather than wiping out in them and getting run over by the following cars. :lol:
 
After reconnoitering my last accident, it looks like my studs lost traction where the ice and slush were on top of a painted direction arrow ... ?

I think my homemade studded tires offer (would have provided) an extra margin of traction on the leans.
Outer rows of screws rarely contact and present full ¼" sharp points to save a slide or delay somewhat, allowing time for something of a "controlled crash".
 
Is it the painted arrow, or the layered "sticker" (plastic with reflective stuff embedded in it)?

The former is very slick, but unless it's painted multiple layers thick, it's not usually thick enough to stop something pointy from grabbing in it. If it's mulitple layers it may actually catch in the layer on top but then when very cold it could fracture the layers apart and take the layer it's stuck in with it....

The plastic layered reflective stuff actually can stop the studs from sticking it in at all, AFAICT. (based on what I see when nails/metal debris/etc are on top of it and cars run them over; I see the stuff embedded in asphalt all around them but never in them).
 
Closer inspection ... looks like it was a reflective sticker type arrow.

Tungsten carbide studs are 1/16th inch "rods" with a similar 1/16" protrusion.
Not pointed, squared off.
Sufficient lean on crowned curve might present outer rows of studs as flat ski type surface.

But ... pushing 60 now ...
Bruises, strains and pains just don't heal up as fast or well. Getting reminders of every "unwise" occurrence whenever it gets cold.
Contemplating building a Winter eTrike.
Dual gear reduction 24V 350w motors for true posi-traction rear end.
2 x 350w @ 24V = 700w / 24V x 25.9V = 755w
A life preserving 4.15V charge should match the "Legal" 750w power output limit.
or
48.1V battery 28A controller through motors in series should provide a very torquey 10mph ...24.05V @ 28A - each motor
Serial parallel switch could switch to motors in parallel for 20mph cruising ... 48.1V @ 14A - each motor

Getting strange ideas about ski replacement up front ... or adding plow?
 
DrkAngel said:
Closer inspection ... looks like it was a reflective sticker type arrow.

Tungsten carbide studs are 1/16th inch "rods" with a similar 1/16" protrusion.
Sufficient lean on crowned curve might present outer rows of studs as flat ski type surface
And when plastic/etc is cold, it is less easily poked into by the studs...even when they are very pointy.



But ... pushing 60 now ...
Bruises, strains and pains just don't heal up as fast or well. Getting reminders of every "unwise" occurrence whenever it gets cold.
Yes, this happens whenever the weather starts to change, for me (I think it is the air pressure changes, but I am not sure; I can feel it in my bones though, especially wherever damage has occured in the past).

Contemplating building a Winter eTrike.
Dual gear reduction 24V 350w motors for true posi-traction rear end.
This is part of why I went with dual rear motors on SB Cruiser trike...and why I like riding it more than the bike (aside from that its' much easier to haul whatever cargo I like with that). No matter how I feel, dizzy, tired, hurty, or normal, I can just ride. and if I can't ride at normal speed for whatever reason, I can go as slow as necessary without tipping over. ;)


A life preserving 4.15V charge should match the "Legal" 750w power output limit.
I'm very glad there's no power limit here in AZ. :)


Getting strange ideas about ski replacement up front ... or adding plow?
Best I can offer is to ride with as low a pressure as you can, and as wide/fat a tire as possible. That's what I do for rainy conditions, is lower the front tire pressures to just above the point I end up spinning the tire on the rim from braking.
 
36V 17.6Ah Battery for ... Snow Beast, among other projects ...
Picked up a pile of Hoverboard batteries with HO Samsung cells.
36V 4.4Ah, so paralleled a few together.
4 fit nicely in sturdy, nicely insulated, Nintendo Gamecube bag.
Has substantial strap and quality stainless Steel clips!

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Attached V-A-W-AH meter to better monitor battery use and level.

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Still working on better quick release for throttle.
HO Samsung cells seem to resist cold weather sag nicely.
Will insulate better and run wires through small holes after concept further developed-proven.
 
Snow Beast is operational!
Cleaned and waxed all cables.
Freed up and lubed chains, brakes and derailleur.
Trued and tightened both wheels (spokes).

Test drove with my old 6 packer 33.3V 43.2Ah. (being replaced, gotta re-task for some worthy application).
DrkAngel said:
22.2V 43.2Ah - 6s20p - 2013
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w/11.1V 43.2Ah - 3s20p module added
33.3V 43.2Ah - 9s20p - 2013
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Will transfer Nintendo bag of 36V Samsung Hoverboard batteries for lighter, more manageable, battery.
 
DrkAngel said:
Forced to commute in the worst weather?
Nice, cheap, inexpensive, anti-stylish alternative.

US Military ECW (Extreme Cold Weather) Mask
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$5.99 delivered

As I ride in the winter in a balaclava that photo is not far off from a usual winter grocery day.
I must be a sucker for punishment .. as I wouldn't have it any other way it seems / is.
The car has not been insured for three years Ive been enjoying biking instead.

ebay has cheap electric gloves that work on ebike voltages if they work they would improve winter ebiking comfort.

36v , 48v , 60v for $10

s-l1600.jpg
 
Added link ...

gloves.jpg

Larger search for\of Heated Gloves

I would expect the cheaper gloves to have some heating element in palm or back of hand. "Best" should have heat into fingers and fingertips.

Will order a pair of 36V etc but also a pair of 12V blue to go with my Blue 12V heated Snowmobile helmet

Cheap gloves will supply a set watt of heat = hot on warmer days, cool on colder days.
Recommend adding digital "dimmer" (12-24V) for adjustment.
 
I ordered the black pair with luck the fingers employ a wire if not it would suck big time especially for the ole Thumb.

The seller I bought from sold them all under one voltage titled 36v 48v and 60v

from ad ~
Power: 8.5W each glove, 17W for one pair.
Voltage: 36V 48V 60V
Heats from 40°C to 45°C
Length of cable: 155mm

They sound like they self regulate the temperature

They might have a temp adjustment knob. I still have not received those grip heaters / battery warmers but they mentioned it has a "smart" temp control of some kind.

Found a photo of the wire , its a straight on/off switch

CM041A881-8.jpg



s-l1600.jpg


12v 48v 60-72v voltage. Smart switch control, easy installation.
 
Considering 3528 waterproof LED strip as heating element for fingers of gloves.
Embedded in silicone so very flexible, and supplied with dbl sided adhesive tape.
LEDs are 20% efficient, so 80% heat. Use 2s for low and 3s for high, or add digital dimmer.

 
I have a suspicion they half hastily fed the heating wire into the glove via the eyelet.
If so should be able to rearrange the heating wires with more care. I Imagine they used something long and thin with a release clip to set the wires in place.
A surgical clip or some such thing
Im also thinking could add more wire if needed
 
DrkAngel said:
Added link ...

gloves.jpg

Larger search for\of Heated Gloves

I would expect the cheaper gloves to have some heating element in palm or back of hand. "Best" should have heat into fingers and fingertips.

Will order a pair of 36V etc but also a pair of 12V blue to go with my Blue 12V heated Snowmobile helmet

s-l500.jpg


Cheap gloves will supply a set watt of heat = hot on warmer days, cool on colder days.
Recommend adding digital "dimmer" (12-24V) for adjustment.


I like the heat control you found , its perfect sized and looks press-able with gloves on
 
DrkAngel said:
LEDs are 20% efficient, so 80% heat.
If light gets trapped inside glove then it eventually will be converted to heat as well. So 100% efficient in this application.
 
The heated gloves made here today first thing I did was check them for wires on the thumb. They have a wire for the thumb and all the fingers.

They came with the same Logo as the photo and fit snug not bad if you have medium hands if you wear a large they will be tight.

s-l1600.jpg
 
.
...
Function over fashion
I'm not afraid to look like some Eskimo, if it means being comfortable. (-10ºF this morning)
There can be a simple item and a world of difference between comfortable and miserable!

Hat - Knit cap allows too much wind, felt lined knit cap preferred
Goggles - snowflakes hurt hitting eyeballs
Balaclava - adjusts from around neck to over nose, ears too - scarf as substitute - works as rebreather, pre-warms air
Insulated shoes-boots
Wool socks
Thermal underwear
Mittens over gloves - windproof exterior with thermal insulating lining

Wind proofing is of ultimate importance
Wool gloves inside windproof insulated mittens
Felt scarf across face - knit allows too much wind

Basic
Creamy petroleum jelly, coat face, hands ... any exposed surface ( let dry several minutes, has water to spread-absorb evenly
exercise before going outside - prime internal heater
pedal to help keep body producing warmth

Emergency
Newspaper, shopping bag or store flyer between layers
Carry large handkerchief as emergency scarf

Personal Warm-up Recipe
Heat 1 cup water
add
1tsp chicken bouillon powder or cube
1/4 tsp garlic powder
±1/16 tsp cayenne pepper
Sip-drink while hot, gulp sediments with last of liquid
prepare for internal heat and cleansed sinuses!
 
Time to get the Snow Beast ready.
Lube up the rusty Chinese "stainless steel" chain
New "Rust Buster' chain for motor drive
3 x 36V 4.4Ah Hoverboard batteries in oem e-Zip pack
free up all cables and brakes etc

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Snow Beast (2008 e-Zip Mountain Trailz) is meeting its 11th Winter, but still performs admirably.
Hoverboard batteries are Samsung with good C rating that showed minimal sag last Winter and should perform excellently this year. 13.2Ah battery through the reduced 25A controller shows minimal sag at near 0ºF, and is plenty for short trips in the cold ... no prolonged cruising.
36V through 9 - 22T gearing gives about 675w motor output @ ~16mph which is great - cruises near 20mph. (I rate motors by output watts - not input watts)
 
For sure, DA and amberwolf, the older you get the more wheels you need. Trikes rule for winter even down south here. Temps in the 50-60 at times. I know, not New York cold and no snow, but occasional ice midwinter. Trikes keep us safe.
otherDoc
 
More over than winterizing is just flat out waterproofing my bike. I've been searching around for connectors that are 100% waterproof and I believe I've found some. I switched my hall sensors to this type of plugs and they work great! I just received my brake connectors so Ill be switching those out also. The big issue is the 6 pin connector that is the throttle and cutoff switch. It's super easy for those to short out with any kind of water. I ended up getting a 6 pin waterproof connector without leads but I discovered there's a dumb led indicator pin that I'm going to rip out and end up using a 5 pin connector instead. This will keep all the connectors uniform and hopefully looking and working great for all weather conditions. On top of that I still need to waterproof the controller and the throttle and that should be the only things I need to waterproof...
 
I upgraded from Dean's T-plugs to XT60s a couple years ago, preliminary observation indicates much more durable and weather resistant.
I variously am experimenting with silicone, hot melt glue and shrink wrap to protect solder connections. (Hot melt not recommended for durability for flexing in cold)

Paraffin wax is proving effective on cables ... grease was a bad mistake!

Might be adding LED tail lighting and sealing with clear silicone as waterproofing and for omnidirectional light dispersion.
I use LED flashlight on strobe for daylight travel. Straight ahead is harsh light through a shaped lens, I sanded back of plastic lens to produce larger point of light with much improved noticeability from sides. Not so good for seeing at night ...
 
Batteries?
Testing and prepping batteries for Winter.
Decided to specialize in my Samsung ICR18650-22p builds for the cold weather.
Rated at 4.5-9C they don't seem to exhibit near the cold weather voltage sag of the laptop cell builds!

I have 3 "builds" for Winter:
25.9V 26.4Ah eZip rack mount battery for my Comfort Cruiser, well fendered for reasonable weather;
36V 13.2Ah eZip rack mount battery for my Snow Beast, Geared and volted for near 700w output at 16mph, studded tires and fenders with fully lowered seat ( to ski feet when advisable)
Additional 36V 13.2V hoverboard batteries in insulated camera bag with custom connection.
All other /lithium batteries being tested and partially discharged for Winter storage.

Oops, forgot about 24V SLA lawnmower battery I loaned to Food Pantry ... will have to pick that up and store-keep charged till Spring.
 
2008 eZip Mountain Trailz (The Snow Beast) is performing nicely.
11th Winter and looking a bit rough, NY uses salt on the streets and most everything steel is gathering a nice coating of rust, including the chromed ... even last year's new Chinese "Stainless steel" pedal chain!

Recent additions include adding a clear hard plastic bottle cap to my front strobe, after being nearly hit a couple times, after dark, I decided to upgrade visibility.
 
Oops, guess Snow Beast isn't recently documented, in this thread.

2008 eZip Mountain Trailz 24V 450w motor.
Great on ice or couple inches of snow, does OK through slush or mud, different story.
Upgrades from stock:
Schwalbe Ice Spiker studded front tire and Klondike XT studded rear.
Plastic fenders
36V controller and 36V 8.8Ah Samsung 22p through a geared down rear enhances output to ~700w@20mph
Strobing front LED flash light and 5 LED rear flasher
Hasen't had a speedometer in a while but near 6500miles and 6000 of them are Winter miles.

Rebuilt the rear wheel washered and "properly laced" with SS spokes.
Necessary to clean rims and replace brake pads frequently!
NYS uses salt and sand, tears up pads and rims, swapped rims a couple times as they dished ... before splitting.

Snow Beast Refurb

.
 
I just purchased some NiChrome wire to sew into my gloves, scarf and pants. Not sure what a good wattage rating is, but I'd only use it for -5C and colder. I was thinking of using a High/Medium/Low using a SP4T which includes on/off and fused on + side. Basically a 10' wire, is tapped to obtain 25W (1/2 length), 32W(5/8's length) and 40W(full length) with their corresponding ohm value for a 12V battery. I have 18650 25R's I could use, all depends on how many amps are being pushed through the NiChrome wire.

Gloves, battery would be top of hand. Scarf, battery wires would be routed ontop of shirt to pants pocket. Jeans, same thing.

At -5C I just need the scarf on low heat.
At -10C I would need scarf, and gloves on medium heat.
At -15C I would need scarf, gloves and jeans on high heat.

I ran into an older guy on a trike, started talking a bit about the motor and battery. He wasnt sure if his motor was dd or geared, he knew the age of his batteries. All purchased on Aliexpress. Great for the winter for a guy like that, no need to worry about slipping on ice and falling sideways. The furthest he rode he said was Mckenzie Mcdonalds to Heritage Costco, not far, I'd say 10-15km at most one way. I do that everyday, staying close to home. Longer rides double that. Even longer casual rides triple that.

The old Makita's are holding up well, I thank Doctorbass for that. Quite a large battery for the capacity, so I have 85 brand spanking new 25R's all within 0.002V of each other. Have to grab my old Tab Welder out and get building. 36V or 48V still havent made up my mind yet. Probably 48V, but them Makita's are 36V so there is that dilemma. Cold cold weather, use Makita's. The new 25R's I will be able to bring in with me, to the YMCA or whatever. Easier to hide them. Had an interesting convo with train driver at end of line. Wires everywhere he was going to bounce me, I kept saying no its not ebike, no its not gas, I stumped him and his ego needed boosting so he told me to move up to the front of the train where there happens to be a bar in the middle of the door. I played it out, 20s normal stop, I tripled that and made sure he could see my wheel. LOLOLOLOL Then the fair checkers came on, and I couldnt tell if it was genuine interest or another power trip. I acted deaf and dumb, but 2nd go around I gave up the beans, he just said cool and went on. That is why I need to start hiding everything, hence 25R for the discharge, and the smallness of 2.5Ah compared to the 1.5Ah. Yes, I am going to go with a custom triangle bag, with a CCM logo as my other post suggested.
 
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