Shifts promptly when you click the shift lever, stops hard and quietly when you pull the brakes hard, doesn't rattle or bind or have side play or consume its own bearings. Wheels run true and round and stay that way. Brakes don't rub, cables don't stick, and bearings don't drag. Seatpost, handlebars, and stem stay put in correct alignment.
thanks dan, as pertaining to chalo as i also ride a catrike expedition and brompton i know how expensive bikes work. I am thru reasoning with you. you have your opinion and i have mine. Just because you work in a bike shop does not mean you are right. I have fixed many of you so-called bike mechanics so called repairs and/or adjustments. Good day.DAND214 wrote: ↑Dec 29 2017 12:04amI would be more concerned with the mid-drive. It being a Sondors brand or a name brand. As long as the buyer doesn't expect beat the hell out of it, it might just work.
Biggest concern as I said would be the drive and the battery. Will there be spare parts available?
Chalo has many good points and Slacker has his. I too have a few low cost bikes but they are old Mongoose. 20-25 years old and they are doing fine. Wife has a Raleigh with a BMC V-1. It has performed fine for at least10 years. My Goose are doing fine with more power and ridden almost daily in the nice weather. No component failure. I did snap the Aluminum swing arm 5 years ago. Built one out of 4130 Chromoly. So you can buy good stuff or not, it's your choice.
Slacker if you want to quote a post, click the right box on the top of the post. It does the work for you.
Click the shift lever? Does that mean that all bikes before index shifting were BSOs?Chalo wrote: ↑Dec 28 2017 1:56amShifts promptly when you click the shift lever, stops hard and quietly when you pull the brakes hard, doesn't rattle or bind or have side play or consume its own bearings. Wheels run true and round and stay that way. Brakes don't rub, cables don't stick, and bearings don't drag. Seatpost, handlebars, and stem stay put in correct alignment.
In short, all the things that BSOs can't do as furnished, and can't do for very long even if you fix them.
I'm pretty sure the ad is from a 1973 catalog. I think I got my Free Spirit bike for my birthday at the end of 7th grade which would have been about 1972 I think (this, unfortunately was also the same time period when the "Free Spirit" bra was being widely advertised on TV). It was actually too large for me, but I did grow into fitting it better fairly soon. The only thing I see different in the ad from my bike is that the reflectors seem to be mounted differently. Otherwise, it appears identical to what I had - namely, a mild steel welded frame, one piece ashtabula crank, Dia-Compe center pull brakes, I think it had a Suntour derailer in the rear and steel 27" rims. I think every metal part was steel on the bike except the brakes and brake levers. This bike was meant to compete against the very popular Schwinn Varsity 10 speed that was ubiquitous in our neighborhood at the time. While not really cheap at the time (equivalent $400 or more in today's dollars), it was nonetheless an assemblage of mediocre parts by today's standards. I just looked up the specs on a cheap "road bike" available at Walmart. They have a 22.5" GMC Denali (by Kent) for $170. It still weighs in at a rather heavy 29 or so pounds for a "true" road bike. The components are certainly cheap. But it looks superior to my old Free Spirit in just about every way. Aluminum frame, alloy wheels and hubs, cheap Shimano (21 speed) index gears. I'm pretty sure that this is what Chalo would call a BSO, but it is surely an overall better bike than my Free Spirit ever was.markz wrote: ↑Dec 29 2017 9:30pmIs that 1979?
http://www.in2013dollars.com/1979-dolla ... amount=100
In my shop, I have the reputation of using cheap parts that none of the other mechanics will touch for their own bikes. I like cheap stuff, but it has to work. That's where BSOs fail.
My former coworker who moved to Anchorage says that fatbikes work in a narrow range of snow conditions. Deep powder has them bogging down like any other bike, but hard packed snow and icy surfaces make them slide around. They work best on lightly packed snow trails, like those established by snowmobiles.
The People's Car did not have to accomodate a multitude of safety, liability and reliability standards. I am not saying those are bad things but they ain't free either.DRMousseau wrote: ↑Dec 31 2017 5:39amRecently noticed Sondors entry into the auto(?) market,.... I think? A $10,000 3-wheel 2-door 3-passenger E-model that offers a cheap and affordable alternative to currently offered full-size electric vehicles. No doubt hoping for the same success Volkswagen had enjoyed in the 60's.
I have an average memory. It was just that getting a 10-speed was really important to me at the time.LewTwo wrote: ↑Dec 30 2017 1:23pmYou have good memory. I think I got my first 'full size' bike around 1963 . It was a used 3 speed 'English Racer' that I found in the B'ham Post want adds for $15 (from mowing lawns). About all I can remember is that none of the wrenches (except for the crescent wrench) in my father's tool box fit any of the fasteners.
Yep. Me too. Though sometimes it is hard to find a clear line between value and false economy.Chalo wrote: ↑Dec 31 2017 2:18amIn my shop, I have the reputation of using cheap parts that none of the other mechanics will touch for their own bikes. I like cheap stuff, but it has to work. That's where BSOs fail.
I don't think anybody bought department store 10-speeds with longevity in mind. The goal was to get through 2-4 years of grade school and high school. You typically got one in late grade school, and maybe rode it until you were 16 and got a driver's license. I was the exception, riding mine until it was stolen when I was nearly 18. By then, I'd replaced the real wheel that was stolen and had repainted the bike frame because the paint had chipped horribly.
My gal is no bike fan and we met long after my Free Spirit had been spirited away, but before I bought my Trek 1400 around 1990.