TSDZ2 Opinions Please

Daytriker

10 W
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
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67
I am having trouble getting my head around this motor. I see some people using this on mountain bikes, riding on what I would consider tougher conditions where the motor & gears should be working harder than our typical operating conditions & yet I have sold 3 of these kits & one came back with a blown blue gear in less than 50 miles & another one has come back in less than 6 months. What perplexes me the most is the unit that has come back is ridden by a lady in her 60's & all of 150 lbs. & she swears that she uses the gears properly & isn't over stressing the motor. So I am wondering -

Recumbent Trike - all 20 inch drive wheels/total weight estimated 200 lbs./moderate riding conditions/36 volt-350 watt/stock

Will the Blue Gear get stressed by torque applied by either the Motor or Cranking Power? - Or a combination of both?
Would changing the Chain ring to a larger/smaller size help reduce the failures?
Will a larger ring take more of the strain off the motor (Blue Gear) by forcing the rider to pedal harder?
Will a smaller chain ring take more of the strain off the motor by making it easier for the rider to pedal?
Will changing to the Brass Gear solve the Blue Gear failure problem without risking the total motor failure under moderate riding conditions? Your opinions please & thank you.
 
As stated else where, the TDSZ2 torque control is really very good but can allow lazy riding ie it will put in max power ( or what ever you have it set to ) at 0 revs ( as soon as you put power onto the peddles ). In watching all the riders who have ridden mine, almost to a man they forget to change into higher gears when they stop which means its all to easy with the motors aid to pull off from a dead stop in the wrong gear.

The manufacturers would be doing themselves a real favour to monitor the crank rotation and at 0 rotation or just above it, reduce the power output to prevent overloading the blue gear from initial startup within the wrong gear. put say a max 10% of power in until the both the crank and speed sensor shows the bike is moving and then ramp up the power input.
 
Tongsheng seems to have variances in production. That may include the bore centers for gear shafts. That can cause some motors to eat gears.
 
I am thinking the problem is Rider Error more than quality variances as the problem seems to always be with the Blue Gear & no indication of anything else being faulty. Anyone else have opinions on changing the Chain Rings to make the life of the Blue Gear a little more durable? Thanks for your replies.
 
My guess would also be poor rider shifting habits coupled with the satisfying surge you get on take off with these systems. If the rider isn't an avid cyclist with the instincts to downshift before stopping, they are probably taking off in too high a gear. This causes the drive to work extra hard but to the rider it all feels good,.. actually better because they get more assist than if they took off in a lower gear.

I see a similar thing with dirt bikers who use auto clutches. They need to do a surprise stop and don't bother downshifting, then they just twist the throttle and take off again two gears too high just because the auto clutch will allow it. Of course they will deny such a thing so you have to catch them doing it.

I once sat at a road crossing on a local rail trail. Half the people braked, looked for traffic then proceeded in the same gear which was too high so then they began downshifting under load until they could pedal. Seasoned bikers downshifted a couple gears before stopping.

I don't know how you would break people of their bad habits, they will always blame it on the bike. I suppose a speed sensor could sound an alarm in higher gears at low speeds?
 
42t is the smallest chainring you can use if you want any sort of decent chainline.
The brass gear is the way to go.
Go to 52v and you will only need Eco and it will climb like a billy goat as long as you pedal along. This is not a hit the throttle, although one should be included as it is good for getting going, and ride it without pedaling motor. Pedaling does take some work but not nearly as much as a normal bike and provides a serious amount of torque and helps maintain momentum.
Good shifting habits required.
 
Glen, I think the previous responders hit the nail on the head....poor shifting habits. You have to take into consideration that many trike riders are people who never rode a bike of any kind before starting to ride a trike. Many of them are on trikes for medical or health reasons. Unless they are seasoned riders who have developed the proper derailleur shifting habits, you're going to see continued instances of busted blue gears, or worse.

I run a 750w. TS with a throttle on a Trident Monorail, and have equipped it with a double chainset (I think I replied to a post by you a couple months back about this) with 34-48 rings. I have been running this setup since last September with the stock blue gear, and have encountered no problems....BUT....I'm extremely careful not to overload the drive on startup. Most of the time for normal riding I use the 48t ring and just use my 9-spd 11-36 cassette for shifting. If I have a really tough climb, I shift the front down to the 34t ring, but that's seldom. I always shift to a low gear on the rear before stopping, and if for some reason I find myself in too high a gear for starting, I set the assist level to "off" and then do whatever is necessary to get my trike back into a useable gear for starting.

There's no question that a "soft start" program would be beneficial, but I'm not getting into the programming of the beast. it works just fine for me as it is. I guess probably I'm the exception, and not the rule, tho! :wink:

Cheers,
Dave
 
Why can't assistance be turned off or reduced automatically as soon as speed drops to 0 mph, km/h.
 
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