LTO Lithium Titanium Oxide (Titanate) Battery 30S (now 32S)- Seeking the Ultimate Commuter Battery

Idea: What about a small LTO powerwall connected to a 110v wall plug. Charges the LTO pack slowly over time. When you need a faster charge, transfer the stored energy to your battery pack. Making a level 1 charge station behave more like a level 2 charge station (once every X hours for LTO recharge). Maybe LTOs wouldn't be necessary for this idea.
 
If you have access to a breaker panel, obtaining 30 or 40A at 240V isn't that difficult. Also dryer plugs (30A) and/or stove plugs (40A) are usually available in a residence. You could make a "splitter" box with pigtails for input and two outputs that would allow you to keep the appliance connected to avoid swapping plugs all the time. If you happen to try to charge your bike and cook/dry clothes at the same time, you'd most likely pop the breaker but as long as you put the splitter together correctly (connections inside a metal box) I don't see any safety issues.
 
Update on balancing LTO.
I wired up and tested the 2.7V Cap balancing boards.

dN7LLhgUHuZwecwfGFZA3p5qTq6IvaTVz-UNb1VIpbO90gK7YhuiUpold4VlRcmzhCDWbBmBfdb8cVf54jghVPyZt4lEFK7ar1Y_B3cqCOOki7hG492haMFzCa9CAfSAzF8J7MpOtxJGQc00FhEtrqakiv93vAqqeJPogqibU3RJhT3mYG_9hmbWJ7b4F69mMljFgxfY3G1GNBMnJseJnXNla1PC_y6i2xG4kcIKCgvkSSuRiD4O86sVyM_wTuz8VFH-3tN5J3VZeVX0EY4tZ8GUfqNuXjIWAgF7hJZo33wGRUEUF_X6YsIP-zbBknfpG7n-jelWAWhgg0MhKdgXo2Nd0K0JOErLTGAew0pz1mX5mYyx9t_hhqTLNsVyBpLU830Qo2jF_ikOF17VyNGTuH5LJoU-KQoKmfcukw9HwqxDMdngl42KwyrUoSGKCwoyC-mKRoebLXI4m2bwpsgIxMMAr3jw-bk8Cui3-pElxZIgvjwp-rTHHeghS4iaivkY66qro2kIMl3b42pLhF4Gh7Eqh5h7ivJoASK3FBWQGgM4Qi1G9fz78vozwBwaMe_a-MD7lVSdvNyLoGB-F35AzBSxmoeUMowMQ9Jk7bKO=w503-h893-no


The lights turn on when balancing the cells. It also created a bunch of heat which was a bit concerning.
Overall, it seemed to worked but not too happy about having to hook it up separately.
I found a BMS that is programmable and has balancing function so I will be using that one instead.
 
Received Bluetooth programmable BMS ordered from Aliexpress.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sma...32826469363.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.ZngtSW
I ordered the 100Amp model, can do 16-32S for any chemistry including LTO.
It took 2 weeks to arrive in the US.
I ordered the Display for an extra $18 just in case, but not sure I will use it since Bluetooth provides the same info.

You also need a separate ~12V power for the display which is a bit annoying, I'd hope it could run off the BMS directly.

So this BMS is much smaller than my previous BMS.
HCndIgDxvnee1VSy2ZhocFeNrVDd6PjjWpWXUnp6-tYjccqf7MHCSmL5-4kBJP-BwNGaE9UqXbDokVyuJY7G8ZdtKQoV9ighrFA82OsTx3KUaeaOUj1jz_OC3SyXYT6iUjDWkuBpTHI5yTfIIzGVDDwTK507uSLEuLlv0kI_0kzg9EejD6w0BZhZA2jOrYi3cdj_CW-mYNGggIHsnPkq56xdhKjuDEZP3ZpBnda8e0rhL2pnn6r7va8jek_0mbh5Wm9z5_877aDs1zZcjXde-GJPBJRZA5vzBbSb9utE1p9xok9G9Kiuk8DRFunEm5S71Sx79WudPvbM2i3IMxCrFyyt9BxoeuRjDl3j1RmjxgcYlFmwQHvH-ZUCc3XPCHW7N7txD7Eprc1SiErKi0bfwqc8I7Q3bWRuBvV-14NbgVKlRm_3ns6xErZ5YJWn50tafA1lge9xplrl7ZNWL1OMIv4FxxiSN6l_0j5QxONE-YsSI8_iXPa_AEC9-ktsY4p6T0Hf1FSqIR7rIjnPQ4yjg6dxNOuri0EEM0p2JUvj-jfhd4c3BQHsyRTdOWL9k4JIaSYF6bKy2vNgU2o-oCenqGwpoGrAt5mS8G0RaLpY=w495-h444-no


Got it hooked up - man 30S is a lot of cells to connect - another downside of LTO - 50% more cells.

kdmcmvtKsE-y4I5o6GqUcmtSwEDNDJH9yOlLjpUNxueUv6yNAyEoQdJE64ZURE2aaU5U6RA1a18I4gK87KtaXnLhL3Pc74DQ3tX2QDtM70P3XCuoLWLKz6X82sceeR_HUkrt3AEuLXL8JTYBCCA_K1cWTVw2StfU6iXo_fq4nzH5hBa6uGvrsK5-vPOzy5j1R57-AMfpAXvZmJTBH3VZydwJ2_NBbECfZTQFjLJdXS9Lqvf2NC3aSiPwt-GOKxbzSrwvJBCU4-6aACWLCvyET_nLit36qlSrgdO7BYZlrkOK6Y-tYxgzRObj4T_buVHzREiXQlyOAzs1vtxbHuepDxNEnsHtZxjzyBnbsqRmhdXUjeDfxHmtcg7sXI64KX7zmH1stt3yf10U3cGbRBmJuBYAFUIx-e_BAg0gV9xVZc6eIcYFOu9vcJx5Vh2B7vAmFpv74cDiPIQufV3q6MGjVqp-u1vqnaO-zERNnDsR5_-3X4c5vaOl7hIkSaMPLcnGa2DcdrmGpt9z87CRvlEyVXHnRVYa_sfNpff538e27AILIdN3Iwh1h4uO3f_aDwirm8P7wXzobH5ukDifB1n9iMQOydNDpXTpjngyr5KH=w503-h894-no


Something that was not clear is that you need to connect B+ at both 30S (in my case since I was using 30S) and at the last pin B+ to power the BMS. Once I figured that out I was able to power the unit and connect to it via bluetooth.

Os7sEZ8ejE6ciO2vlw_1bbvHnwENrlxTZmZKVBWNGGbGf51PbSxM82zvYHAdhAgiLfS1gAci3v4flqIH4ZLGl7OwOUc2kLSBM9DVpgOA3du5Yn-RsLkZ2esLkHsDqHELDRynLYL3BKQ5PWO-WVqzCFkaBFoyrdqbn-AUi60zuBi4_ZTwKaF58hnTavudbn9NDqIcKKwEp_rFiC8iFnCxtS-MDv9WXofS_vnqx1-_Tx7LwhfL3765UqP8glodkeRd9e2Aa3wNOTWmRuKAYeNHFOqTzMVWMSr1EevzAqsCvLCLKRVymcXDfC1fbLAYu7ajYcSOCU0VVJF7FYROX-2kTdYzjl0a-ja8NP1e5G4HVP4luVQjRr-8JcPLjPhfKlwsn4FDwwN14XQ9cPfUUxR0bQf-nwVuYpsRfCRIzf3a_hUNxDOb8n6D1DOQ0jUCAAA_ZCExUD53hD0vsHb0N3ep-WmMOqVPQhM6NSROSz5EX-MqmEXqpvNQ_7tvtiSJ26q-NLuGSGHzTY4bgHdqAXuSLrxIDe-PWuyurfLLt8G_h8igRyTo31yuZPlRy3tEzxiivTG3TuK7Q52CmR5P7_jAM3t5feh1u6mtGyFYxlSP=w503-h893-no


From there you can customize the parameters for LTO under param1

yRVk1DCxg0jUtzw68gzBRujnSu44wY1UISuj-Nt6pHjqU-qOOtJO-kR8cZu8InxWNG9aZ0dcS8s0pJJhVo40uVPJn5WRJA---HeHe_DGdJfeRRHZ8HE--heCNm8szqGHA-1Tn-QMFiXLHlwDbzTioOBzwjwtb87rl8_7yYQepIX4Oh5tzF15eVyXKY6YMCP79p1gKmHUKsOsyVxg0DNrokAQTkNuWbmgnc6SJ0R-vIuonA9WFQaBUc9mZncGFqMq7oluEw-1SR6qYC2czzpnh7JYxqHTb88TVPbrISbO2pwl42tDyqBwKh1Mnfb-1na0VOxAnqKqvRdegW3eRKadsImp9aPWvbcVeJlGiQIqKFWbjiUh_n8MbAw7uxcH8IFJJ-wN5aAKQ9_pVAV9QoyUwFlZI8_MF9sU6T4l7ySE9X71lcySpLln4TmG-dJ4MgxptkpoXT3wiEOUfC3YL22aGqzwxSrKsM_YRm4Q-BXMIImjKnxYrQOcQapUy489MblKUsiKILqhypjHhNsTK4wdMlcL6oHBsFcrgs7dq3j6iOc4Lkv8of9CBu14IUrIeZ8HHM66Jr2acZ1lvfZMOku_UzsjQCPt_6T0E8_2qgUb=w503-h893-no


under param2 you can see the battery status in real time!

XjGPB7UfaIFx_5UcdDa21TIxpQDxVAUpaPQatewPnyifP6monjyv8vF4yu709cAZoB_UllIk94elqlyJU0h28d9cPBkwCNYPKPvPePN4B5ZJrjvSMN9ZQsz-Tkt-jp0aLZax09MSXqImW3ZIVvT--sjrBUSyiG7Cw683kDOE36m0tdL4eN4v-kvq1XfgMRVsHSTGuHGW9z4vnA_y17oDSAwLAwF0Joxa88oHVg052qrzKtWOmsMHOlzhu-n-oAcrQvJ7esycPE_9onLKd9N5y7WkRIkVe1fzwquhu1U9dX0rDpDD7ylE0p8NrKxPeTks0XpXqZasJkyYsnXXXia6zDxUW2s99HGA_BlFc7wSId8qV9NcMMbkruQOVoK6X0gP1-sX4TNQyQr2bK-tKoEI-a6QKdKgqeL7ELvbQuaayoK0jKUNoVopkalBL0J7sbMPdB2GE5C6eIVmbN2SeqdR54AsVtecgR_CCb6kHCQ87szt7RZQlbHGMK6HGWY9nAG6pQglACSNHG8uqszb6fjqn768jeLLQDcxkcD35za_tm-0TVz7QHkZN5c2J3JYdWprJ2OwZ0RNPsk8cbegNOq674g3aFgnbh2dnJs4FTRA=w503-h893-no


It provides the voltage of every cell as well as Min and Max voltages - highlighted in red and blue and displayed under Voltage 5 and 6. Voltage 7 is the average Voltage 8 is difference between min and max.

It quickly balanced all the cells to within 0.002V as set in the param1 option.
Voltage 2 and 4 displays charging and discharging current and power.
Overall very impressed with the features.
This is one smart BMS!
 
I'm quite sure the new displays will run from +100vdc. Check the specs.
Also you can order up to 300a as I did, or order less fets to save money.
It would be a steal used only for balance and BT monitor.

You are correct. The last pin powers bms, so as to use the full pack for power.
The bms will turn on with only B- and pin 34 connected.
 
Sam, you have my full attention with your LTO build.

About a month ago I started a thread on using Supercaps to help save my Li-ion because they were doing to quick. But the end of that thread I was sold on LTO batteries. I have spoken with Inwo a little on the subject and see he has posted here too and is building his.

Here is what I am looking at as of today. I have been speaking with someone from osnpower.cn about batteries. First was considering the large 30AH cylinders but the weight was more then I wanted to replace my 2 52v 15AH Li-ion. Then I looked at replacing 1 of my batteries with a 16AH LTO when the customer service responded with spec sheet on a 20AH which was slightly lighter then the 16AH.

Battery https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2016-New-Product-High-Quality-2_60508999835.html

I am almost ready to pull the trigger on these, last couple of days I have been researching on how to spot weld these. On eBay I did find these type of batteries with threaded connections but the price was $52!

For an LTO BMS and charger I was thinking of the Chargery 1500w
http://chargery.com/charger.asp I think I saw these chargers, BMS and display for $700

I am needing 21 LTO's to create a battery that is 58.8v max. That matches my other LI-ion battery and I have a solar panel I carry on my bike that charges to 58.8 volts.

Like you I wanted longer life and as important faster charging. I don't commute with my bike but I touring. The last 2 years I have almost 6K miles of touring and my life would be greatly enhanced with faster charging. Instead of 2h30m charging 2 52v 15AH batteries inboxed a restaurant I would like to just charge 1 20 AH LTO in 35 minutes.

So I am super excited to see how your build finishes up, testing of the unit and what your conclusion is.
 
lwik said:
Sam, you have my full attention with your LTO build.

About a month ago I started a thread on using Supercaps to help save my Li-ion because they were doing to quick. But the end of that thread I was sold on LTO batteries. I have spoken with Inwo a little on the subject and see he has posted here too and is building his.

Here is what I am looking at as of today. I have been speaking with someone from osnpower.cn about batteries. First was considering the large 30AH cylinders but the weight was more then I wanted to replace my 2 52v 15AH Li-ion. Then I looked at replacing 1 of my batteries with a 16AH LTO when the customer service responded with spec sheet on a 20AH which was slightly lighter then the 16AH.

Battery https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2016-New-Product-High-Quality-2_60508999835.html

I am almost ready to pull the trigger on these, last couple of days I have been researching on how to spot weld these. On eBay I did find these type of batteries with threaded connections but the price was $52!

For an LTO BMS and charger I was thinking of the Chargery 1500w
http://chargery.com/charger.asp I think I saw these chargers, BMS and display for $700

I am needing 21 LTO's to create a battery that is 58.8v max. That matches my other LI-ion battery and I have a solar panel I carry on my bike that charges to 58.8 volts.

Like you I wanted longer life and as important faster charging. I don't commute with my bike but I touring. The last 2 years I have almost 6K miles of touring and my life would be greatly enhanced with faster charging. Instead of 2h30m charging 2 52v 15AH batteries inboxed a restaurant I would like to just charge 1 20 AH LTO in 35 minutes.

So I am super excited to see how your build finishes up, testing of the unit and what your conclusion is.

Cool project - please post link to the thread if or whenever you have one. I'd be interested in following.

Those 20Ah cells seem very nice at 515g - that's not bad at all for LTO. Getting the threaded version would make your life so much easier - easy to build and replace cells - although keep in mind the hardware will add some significant weight with 21 connections.

Hopefully the price will come down a bit - that's why INWO's 11Ah @$9 LTO deal was too cheap not to give it a try.

BTW $700 for BMS and Charger seems a bit steep! - although I'm sure the quality is there.

The one I just bought cost $150 for BMS and display and seems to work well so far.

For fast charging you could probably build a 20A 58.8V charger with a few power supplies for less than $200.
Like two of these in parallel - which would also be modular based on need (i.e., 10 or 20A option)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-60V-DC...27354?hash=item2a9c94da5a:g:IOcAAOSwxCxT5kZX
or three of these in parallel = 24A
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LM-YN-DC-0...467355&hash=item2a9cae5968:g:2y4AAOSw8-FaWzbY

That would be more than 1400W and about 50 min charge, that's probably the max you can reliably get from a restaurant outlet :)

But maybe someone out there on ES has used a 30A 58.8V ~1800W power supply from an 15A/120VAC outlet before - i'd be interested to here how that has worked out.

So two of these 24V PS in series, if grounds are isolated, would also get you there :)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110V-22...hash=item236be66178:m:mnohYz4NZlT_Dq5l5lWNUMg - that's a 33A charger for $100!

Anyways now I need to wait for the snow to melt before I can test the new bike. Looks good on the stand - can't wait to test it out.
 
MoonBassMan said:
Idea: What about a small LTO powerwall connected to a 110v wall plug. Charges the LTO pack slowly over time. When you need a faster charge, transfer the stored energy to your battery pack. Making a level 1 charge station behave more like a level 2 charge station (once every X hours for LTO recharge). Maybe LTOs wouldn't be necessary for this idea.

I think you'd need some high current DC-DC step up converter,but that could work - although the price would be probably be prohibitive.
 
SamRich said:
Hopefully the price will come down a bit - that's why INWO's 11Ah @$9 LTO deal was too cheap not to give it a try.

I have spoken with INWO before and he also messaged me about them, it is a good deal. It would result in a 22AH instead of 20AH for the voltage I need, the extra 2AH adds 5 more pounds though. Next month when I have time to start the build I will probably get everything from him. But if those 20AH threaded batteries were a much better deal I probably would go that route to save the 5 extra pounds and ease of assembly. But for my first battery build this sounds like the best deal incase I screw things up.

Thanks for the ideas on cheaper chargers. The Chargery system is a complete system and will charge at 1500w which I hope translates in to a 45-60 minute dead to full charge. Would love, if possible while touring, to be able to tap in to all the EV charging stations. 240V 16AH that would be a 20 minute charge I'm guessing. I am sure that the batteries can handle that high charge rate but finding a charger that can handle that amount of power that is light would be difficult.

One my cross country bike trip one of my Li-Ion batteries BMS shut the battery down at 42.5v as I crossed the Texas state line. By the time I hit Florida at the end of my trip the BMS was shutting off the battery at 49v. Because of those problems I want a BMS with LCD set up so I can see what is happening with the battery and balancing. Currently if there is a problem I have no clue until the battery is showing signs of failure. I spent $1K on that 52V 15AH and got about 250-300 charges on it. That is a huge waste of money which I hope LTO's will solve.

Hope that snow melts soon and you can get some data to report!
 
lwik said:
SamRich said:
Hopefully the price will come down a bit - that's why INWO's 11Ah @$9 LTO deal was too cheap not to give it a try.

One my cross country bike trip one of my Li-Ion batteries BMS shut the battery down at 42.5v as I crossed the Texas state line. By the time I hit Florida at the end of my trip the BMS was shutting off the battery at 49v. Because of those problems I want a BMS with LCD set up so I can see what is happening with the battery and balancing.

Either that or bluetooth if you travel with a smart phone - might provide a more compact solution for touring.
 
Yes, that BT bms is great. I have a 32s connected to my 32s jump pack.
Also have some 24s 100a versions.
I've been running the 24s 300a in my Gem truck for a couple years. 22s 110ah Volt.
The display backlight is flakey. Other than that, fine.
 
lwik said:
SamRich said:
Hopefully the price will come down a bit - that's why INWO's 11Ah @$9 LTO deal was too cheap not to give it a try.

I have spoken with INWO before and he also messaged me about them, it is a good deal. It would result in a 22AH instead of 20AH for the voltage I need, the extra 2AH adds 5 more pounds though. Next month when I have time to start the build I will probably get everything from him. But if those 20AH threaded batteries were a much better deal I probably would go that route to save the 5 extra pounds and ease of assembly. But for my first battery build this sounds like the best deal incase I screw things up.

Thanks for the ideas on cheaper chargers. The Chargery system is a complete system and will charge at 1500w which I hope translates in to a 45-60 minute dead to full charge. Would love, if possible while touring, to be able to tap in to all the EV charging stations. 240V 16AH that would be a 20 minute charge I'm guessing. I am sure that the batteries can handle that high charge rate but finding a charger that can handle that amount of power that is light would be difficult.

One my cross country bike trip one of my Li-Ion batteries BMS shut the battery down at 42.5v as I crossed the Texas state line. By the time I hit Florida at the end of my trip the BMS was shutting off the battery at 49v. Because of those problems I want a BMS with LCD set up so I can see what is happening with the battery and balancing. Currently if there is a problem I have no clue until the battery is showing signs of failure. I spent $1K on that 52V 15AH and got about 250-300 charges on it. That is a huge waste of money which I hope LTO's will solve.

Hope that snow melts soon and you can get some data to report!

Hi Iwik,
Searched for your thread (posted this response on there too)

It's a very interesting thread to me since not many do touring on ebikes and the trade offs are different than for a trail and commuting bike. I used to do a bunch of touring (before the kiddo) and I have thought of how I would maybe do it on an ebike. I had this idea to ride around lake Ontario in 3 days - 200 miles a day! I looked at tradeoffs between battery weight/ time charging during stops/average speed / and overall time on the saddle. I wish I could find that table to share it (I will if I find it) In the end I think 52V and 30Ah with a 15A charger seemed like a decent solution...Anyway I kinda gave up on the idea when I thought about being on the saddle for so many hours (and mind you I've done a few centuries).

Point is, not sure if LTO is the solution for your touring application. LiFe might be a better solution -some models have a few 1000 charge capacity and so it would be cost effective. In my comparison chart I omitted LiFe but with a back of the envelope calculation it should be nearly as cost effective as LTO but not nearly as heavy.

The reason I chose LTO is because I have a fixed /short commute that I do 250 days a year and also wanted high power. If I needed longer range I would go with either LiFe or 18650 as other have suggested. It sounds like you payed a lot for a somewhat average quality battery pack - so I understand the frustration, however a properly built pack with a quality BMS should give you a much longer battery life than what you experienced.

With a 20-40 lbs budget you could have up to 3kWh battery that you could charge at 1500W with a high current power supply. You are pretty much limited by the outlet which will provide maximum 1.5kWh per hour independent of chemistry. So you could charge every time you stop while still having some spare energy in case you need it whereas with LTO you'd likely already run out of energy for the same weight.

my two cents :)
 
SamRich said:
With a 20-40 lbs budget you could have up to 3kWh battery that you could charge at 1500W with a high current power supply. You are pretty much limited by the outlet which will provide maximum 1.5kWh per hour independent of chemistry. So you could charge every time you stop while still having some spare energy in case you need it whereas with LTO you'd likely already run out of energy for the same weight.

my two cents :)

Thanks for the Two Cents. Carrying more then the 2 batteries I do would probably solve some problems and makes total sense. The company that built the batteries is a reputable company Hi Power Cycles in LA. In fact because of the issues I was having with my last battery they did a complete replacement at no cost with a new 52V 15AH I used to ride to Las Vegas over Christmas break.

My 2 current batteries are comprised of 18650 batteries. Because my bike fully loaded weighs 250 pounds and I also weigh a similar amount that is 500 pounds, it's a beast! On any downhills and even coming up to a stop light turning red and need to stop quickly I use the break regeneration to assist slowing the bike down. With the new battery I got I can really see a difference between my other functioning battery that has 200 - 250 charges, and the new one already. I'm coming to the conclusion that using the regeneration to slow the bike down, that also puts a charge back in to the battery, is causing a faster wear on the batteries. I think the LTO's will be more robust which is why I want to experiment with them. My first trip from Sacramento down the coast to LA was 600 miles. I had no break regeneration and when I returned home my local bike shop replaced the break pads up front because they were gone.

By the time I roll into the campsite 4-5 in the afternoon I have to set up camp and then cook. I would love to be able to set up the batteries to charge while I am doing that but there is almost never a power outlet close where I can keep an eye on them. So after I have set up camp and made dinner, I would take a chair and go to where the power outlet was (which is usually in the bathrooms) and sit there till the batteries are fully charged, which could be 2-3 hours. I don't want them stollen so I have to baby sit them. Dealing with 4 batteries would just take more time and be more a pain in the ass I'm guessing. So being able to charge the LTO's in less then an hour will give me more time at camp to talk with fellow bicyclist instead of waving at people go in and out of the bathrooms.

LiFe batteries will be a little heavier but would get me more charges it sounds like, but I am still stuck with the charge rate which LTO's solve. But thank you so much, I appreciate the ideas and input. I am just excited to see someone else building an LTO system!
 
lwik said:
I think the LTO's will be more robust which is why I want to experiment with them.

Yup experimenting is the most fun part of this! :) There are a lot of "nay sayer" about LTO not being useful for ebikes, but I think there are niche applications. I'm looking forward to seeing how it works out in the long term for shorter commutes and who knows maybe for some types of touring applications too :p
 
Hi SamRich,

Nice BMS you have there, to a very decent price... have you made some road test yet and see the BMS behavior live.
Did you find a way to completely shut off the BMS to avoid draining the batteries when you will not use your eBike...

What is really nice about this BMS, it also offer the option to expand to larger cell pack as well if you start with a smaller pack.

I have been looking at the BMS installation video (below) and I was wondering
if you were able to change the language on the LCD display...

Video : (English 33min.)
https://youtu.be/xIBlmvQWbXY

Video part 1: (V.O. Japan)
http://www.bilibili.com/video/av8458280/#page=1
Video part 2: (V.O. Japan)
http://www.bilibili.com/video/av8458280/#page=2

Thanks
 
Bison_69 said:
Nice BMS you have there, to a very decent price... have you made some road test yet and see the BMS behavior live.
Did you find a way to completely shut off the BMS to avoid draining the batteries when you will not use your eBike...

Thanks

I have not road tested the unit yet. there is an on/off switch which likely reduces power consumption when you don't need BT. It does a good job at balancing and the interface is pretty nice.

I'll provide update in a few weeks when I do.

Bison_69 said:
I have been looking at the BMS installation video (below) in Chinese (unfortunately) and I was wondering
if you were able to change the language on the LCD display...

Thanks
I have not bothered with LCD yet since BT seems more conveniant for me.
 
I have been using these 11ah LTO cells in my car for the last 6 months , don't have a bms on them since they don't suffer from under voltage or over voltage . I do monitor them and after 6 months they have not come out of balance at all . i have found that they hold 95% of their power from 1.95v to 2.6v . Mine don't hold much capacity over 2.6v so i don't charge them over that .

Getting ready to stick these in my gem car this week , love these things!

looking forward to hearing your test info on your bike .

p.s. nice build !
 
kinghappy said:
I have been using these 11ah LTO cells in my car for the last 6 months , don't have a bms on them since they don't suffer from under voltage or over voltage . I do monitor them and after 6 months they have not come out of balance at all . i have found that they hold 95% of their power from 1.95v to 2.6v . Mine don't hold much capacity over 2.6v so i don't charge them over that .

Getting ready to stick these in my gem car this week , love these things!

looking forward to hearing your test info on your bike .

p.s. nice build !

What charger are you using to charge them?
 
kinghappy said:
I have been using these 11ah LTO cells in my car for the last 6 months , don't have a bms on them since they don't suffer from under voltage or over voltage . I do monitor them and after 6 months they have not come out of balance at all . i have found that they hold 95% of their power from 1.95v to 2.6v . Mine don't hold much capacity over 2.6v so i don't charge them over that .

Getting ready to stick these in my gem car this week , love these things!

looking forward to hearing your test info on your bike .

p.s. nice build !
That's to funny. When my Lithium Ion was fully charged and brand new it would show 58.6v and I could see it drain slowly to 58.x and so on. Now after a couple hundred charges it show 58.6v at full charge but after riding my bike 50 feet it has already dropped to 57.6v, 1 full volt!. There is truth to loosing that top end charge over time.
 
the ones in my car are used as a starting battery so alternator charges them . the gem electric car uses the factory deltaq charger . one of the nice things about these is they dont need a certain charging profile . decide what voltage you want and you can charge at 100% until you get there and then the charger turns off . they fall back slightly so if i want 2.6v i charge to 2.7v and they fall back to 2.6v .

the specs say you can charge to 2.8v but they are mostly full at 2.6v , you might get 2% more in them if you go to 2.8v not worth it .
 
In one of the screenshots for the android app the seller has on Aliexpress it shows a "sys log" button. Any idea if that actually works and what it is going to be logging?
 
kinghappy said:
the ones in my car are used as a starting battery so alternator charges them . the gem electric car uses the factory deltaq charger . one of the nice things about these is they dont need a certain charging profile . decide what voltage you want and you can charge at 100% until you get there and then the charger turns off . they fall back slightly so if i want 2.6v i charge to 2.7v and they fall back to 2.6v .

the specs say you can charge to 2.8v but they are mostly full at 2.6v , you might get 2% more in them if you go to 2.8v not worth it .

The reason they give you the higher termination voltage is not extra capacity. Its faster charging.

If your cell is say 10mOhm internal resistance, and is currently at 2.3v (the flattest part of the curve) then at 2.6v your maximum charging rate would be 9w. If your charger's voltage was 2.8v that would increase to 25w, meaning faster charge.
 
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