Potential Catastrophic Frame Failer Averted ….sort of.

wturber said:
You could probably build an aircraft out of aluminum that wouldn't need that kind of inspection. But it would be a very heavy and impractical aircraft.

Sorry, but you couldn't. It wouldn't fly. (I won't unnecessarily explain that conclusion.)

wturber said:
If your bike frame weighs 20 lbs, then sure, if well built that should last indefinitely. But it is also well outside the normal or even heavy duty range of bike frames that I thought we were discussing here.
Just a number plucked from the air. I've no idea what it actually weighs; its of no concern to me.

I wasn't discussing any frames beyond a simple comment that OPs problem was my first bike-world confirmation of the problems I am all too familiar with, of using Al for structural use.

The rest has being me having to defend my choice of bike (which I never mentioned in this thread before the post you quote), from attack by people whom I didn't ask for their opinion.
 
Buk___ said:
Do you regularly exert 1300N forces to your pedals, whilst cranking the bike over at 7.5 deg to the direction of the force? I don't.

I stand up to climb, yes. In my case, that's over 1500N if I'm not pulling on the bars to increase pedal force further. And when I'm standing to climb, I rock the bike from side to side, like most people do.

I've been doing this to one of my big-tubed aluminum bikes almost every time I have ridden it since 1991. It has had longer, wider cranks (196mm and 225mm Bullseye) than EFBe used in their tests for the entire time I've had it. So far, so good. I don't expect the thing to last forever, but it's already amortized.
 
OK, then let me change the discussion a bit and add a couple of things.

As a side note this frame does have over 11,000 miles of e-bike use. It has cracked, I think in the logical place for a front hub motored bike. The place where the crack started was at the spot that I believe takes the most pressure from A: the tug of the motor, and B: the pressure of the rest of the bikes weight. The motor and forks, like a pry bar was pulling at the weld at the bottom of the head tube. It just took over 11,000 miles to get the crack going. And yes, I did feel the change in steering some weeks ago but I couldn't figure it out. I was looking at the fork, dropouts and tire pressure which all looked normal. Now I understand the weird way in which the steering was responding. Kind of like an over-steering condition. And yes it has probably been growing slowly over time.

Although I am mostly in the park it and walk camp, I will mark the crack with a permanent marker and monitor it if I use the bike for short slow local runs.

So today, I was looking through my local Craigslist and their is mostly junk for sale in the price range I was looking to pay, $150ish because that is probably the cost of getting it welded around here. A good DH bike would be nice, but last year was a lean year for me money wise. After I got hit by the car I couldn't work for some months. As I started moving towards working again I found that the people who had hired me before the accident got other people to work for them as they needed to keep their business going. Understandable. However, not a lot of money around here at the moment. I did speak to my lawyer today about my now mostly healed condition and he was suggesting that he will move to settle for money. Perhaps that DH bike is in the near future. But in the mean time, I will look around for another frame / whole mountain bike on the cheap.

Does anybody have any experience with a 2009 Giant Anthem XO? It is full suspension and has a lot of triangle space.
 
e-beach said:
So today, I was looking through my local Craigslist and their is mostly junk for sale in the price range I was looking to pay, $150ish because that is probably the cost of getting it welded around here.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product2_10053_10052_7000000000000003472_-1
 
Chalo said:
Buk___ said:
Do you regularly exert 1300N forces to your pedals, whilst cranking the bike over at 7.5 deg to the direction of the force? I don't.

I stand up to climb, yes. In my case, that's over 1500N if I'm not pulling on the bars to increase pedal force further. And when I'm standing to climb, I rock the bike from side to side, like most people do.

Then your needs are different to mine. (And you probably aren't riding a 1.5kg Al frame.)
 
I could weld your frame easily for free, but welding aluminum without heat treatment afterwards leaves the HAZ near the weld as weak as 1/7th of original strength. Meaning it's just going to rebreak, and perhaps more impressively into something actually catastrophic.

If you want an option that really works, after acetone cleaning and sanding, wrapping a few rolls of urathane casting tape tightly around that head tube assembly in a lashing style of pattern can make a permanent solution, and is possible to assemble a strong frame from scratch that way using no welds.

Aluminum is an amazing material done right, and done wrong it snaps and breaks itself on its own just cooling down after welding.
 
liveforphysics said:
I could weld your frame easily for free, but welding aluminum without heat treatment afterwards leaves the HAZ near the weld as weak as 1/7th of original strength. Meaning it's just going to rebreak, and perhaps more impressively into something actually catastrophic.

If you want an option that really works, after acetone cleaning and sanding, wrapping a few rolls of urathane casting tape tightly around that head tube assembly in a lashing style of pattern can make a permanent solution, and is possible to assemble a strong frame from scratch that way using no welds.

Aluminum is an amazing material done right, and done wrong it snaps and breaks itself on its own just cooling down after welding.

It can also be soldered quite easily with the right flux and solder; and it doesn't have the same horrible affects on the workiece as welding; but achieves near the same strength.
 
liveforphysics said:
If you want an option that really works, after acetone cleaning and sanding, wrapping a few rolls of urathane casting tape tightly around that head tube assembly in a lashing style of pattern can make a permanent solution, and is possible to assemble a strong frame from scratch that way using no welds.

That's what I will be doing with my scooter headstock. I was thinking of using fibreglass mat and resin. As long as I get more than 30,000 km from that scooter I'll consider it worthwhile, and a failed headstock at 11,000 km is not going to stop me! :lol:
 
liveforphysics said:
If you want an option that really works, after acetone cleaning and sanding, wrapping a few rolls of urathane casting tape tightly around that head tube assembly in a lashing style of pattern can make a permanent solution, and is possible to assemble a strong frame from scratch that way using no welds.

You mean the stuff they use for broken bones?

Seems like fiberglass or carbon fiber with epoxy would be stronger, but casting tape is kind of stretchy and conforms well to irregular shapes. It doesn't like being in the sun for a long time. Paint can fix that.
 
Broken bone casting tape is amazing stuff. A friend of mine, Craig Calfee has built many fantastic and robust bike frames using it with great success.

You're right it would be helped from UV decay through an outer paint layer. I would trust it more than I trust welds in aluminum.
 
liveforphysics said:
Broken bone casting tape is amazing stuff. A friend of mine, Craig Calfee has built many fantastic and robust bike frames using it with great success.

You're right it would be helped from UV decay through an outer paint layer. I would trust it more than I trust welds in aluminum.

I had to look those up, now I want to order one of his DIY frame kits and try it myself, the BMX kit might be fun, too cool!
 
It would only be useful if all joints were designed around being adhesive bonded joints, then it would be fine.

For something like fixing a head tube, it would just fail, as the aluminum failed with that loading and the metal that cracked was bonded as well to itself as you're going to get from that design.

The beauty of the casting tape is it added a very tough resin to a very tough fiber material, so once you've built adequate layers of it, it's now redesigned the joint to be well supported by the fiber composite structure alone (aka, wrap until it builds up some bulk the high stress areas).


Buk___ said:
liveforphysics said:
Broken bone casting tape is amazing stuff. ... I would trust it more than I trust welds in aluminum.

How do you feel about heat-cured epoxy-bonded Al?
 
liveforphysics said:
It would only be useful if all joints were designed around being adhesive bonded joints, then it would be fine.

For something like fixing a head tube, it would just fail, as the aluminum failed with that loading and the metal that cracked was bonded as well to itself as you're going to get from that design.

The beauty of the casting tape is it added a very tough resin to a very tough fiber material, so once you've built adequate layers of it, it's now redesigned the joint to be well supported by the fiber composite structure alone (aka, wrap until it builds up some bulk the high stress areas).


Buk___ said:
liveforphysics said:
Broken bone casting tape is amazing stuff. ... I would trust it more than I trust welds in aluminum.

How do you feel about heat-cured epoxy-bonded Al?

I was thinking about forming a roughly u-shaped piece of (say) 0.8mm Al around the tube to span the crack and then heat-set epoxy it in place; then put small (say 3mm) pop rivets in the top corners plate both sides as an anti-peal measure.

But he would have to strip back the paint and oxide on the frame first.
 
Chalo said:
Buk___ said:

That's not quite it. Steel has a fatigue threshold, which is to say that below a certain amount of stress, no fatigue cracking will occur. But every steel frame experiences forces above this threshold, if it is ridden. A frame would be annoyingly bulky and heavy if it were built to stay under its fatigue threshold all the time.

Correspondingly, because aluminum has a low density, it's easier to build in a way that lowers stresses enough to avoid low-cycle fatigue entirely, and moves high-cycle fatigue into the millions or billions of cycles range before failure. That's why we can have all-aluminum B-52s and airliners that are are several decades old and have been working all that time. Heck, there are still DC-3s running regular scheduled service, and that plane was built when metal fatigue was poorly understood. Few if any steel tube framed aircraft can claim that kind of longevity-- I'm guessing none, in terms of flying hours.

Lot's of steel tube old planes flying around, T-Crafts and J-3's from the late 30's/early 40's for just two. I've had a ride in a Ford tri motor from the 20's, also a Travel Aire. A good steel tube air frame and a good "spamcan" (shorthand for an all aluminum plane, specifically the fuselage) are BOTH good planes when designed right. Hanging out on a major Super Cub forum like I do, and also flying a steel tube plane myself (1.1 hr yesterday, on the wheel skis still) I do read about a fair amount of steel cracks, bends, and breaks. Always after decades or corrosion, usually combined with very hard use, stuff happens. All of the serious off airport light planes use steel tube fuselages, though there are all aluminum planes also used for that purpose (landing on rocky ridge tops and other severe duty uses) they are in a minority. I inspect my planes tail spring/tail post area every time I fly, as it gets a workout and is known to suffer problems, but for whatever reason, I have failed to inspect my bikes, stupid! Especially as I've been hurt worse on my bikes then ever flying!! I will change my ways, this is a good thread.
 
Don't band aid the frame. If you want to just fix it, you want to weld it and add lots of material (fillets) to cover much further out onto the tubes. I would fold a section of aluminum sheet and add it as a gusset also that connects the top down and head tube to it also. Many years ago they learned that your type of head tube joint is the weak point and stated joining the top -down and head tube together into a much larger head assembly which effectively reduces tube stresses to small fractions of your design. Many tests out there showing the improvements. The bike you selected as a possible replacement has gone that route also.

Yours is badly broken, and from the looks of it, 3/4 the way through the tube. When, not if it goes, all the pressure of the front end will be hanging on only the top tube which is not going to hold much. That is all the spreading from vertical loads, torsion from steering-pedaling side loads, and bending from brakes-drive and bumps. Good luck with that! Been there! I can tell you first hand that it is a "Fah King Horror Show". :lol:

Much has been discussed on material choices and the sheldon brown test is a good one but fails on the main correlation the results points to. It is stiffness that make bike frames last. If you design a less stiff assemby it will not last as long regardless of the materials used. Lately many roadies are talking ride quality and it makes me laugh out loud. They claim that steel frames ride better. Fools! Steel is great stuff and so is aluminum, titanium, and carbon. In general any ground given toward flex and ride quality will most definitely shorten life cycle for a given geometry. Don't get hung up on material.
 
Buk___ said:

And yet, back here in the real world, the bike frames that have lasted me the longest, while weighing the least, are made from aluminum. Airliners last as long as houses, and get cut up for scrap while they're still good. Aluminum Rolls-Royces are holding up a lot better than their steel contemporaries. Great-Grandma's aluminum cookpots are still doing the job for her great-grandchildren.

It's like you have learned an engineering concept, but failed to understand its implications or importance in real world engineering.
 
Chalo said:
It's like you have learned an engineering concept, but failed to understand its implications or importance in real world engineering.

Oh Chalo. I greatly respect your advice about bikes; but please don't think your 10 years as a bike mechanic, and un-cited, anecdotal witticisms make you qualified.

My 40 years of professionally qualified, real-world, wide ranging, experience vs your ...
 
Buk___ said:
Oh Chalo. I greatly respect your advice about bikes; but please don't think your 10 years as a bike mechanic, and un-cited, anecdotal witticisms make you qualified.

My 40 years of professionally qualified, real-world, wide ranging, experience vs your ...

...seems like 30 years wasted.

Sorry, couldn't resist.
 
silence said:
...seems like 30 years wasted.

Really? Then read this. All of it.

Real-world, hard won knowledge, based on analyzing real failures, diagnosing the root causes, admitting to the errors made ,and finding real-world solutions to them.

A choice quote:

there's an important distinction to be made between fatigue in steel and fatigue in aluminium. Below a particular level of stress, steel reaches its fatigue limit. No damage or loss of strength will occur below that fatigue limit, regardless of the number of cycles

In contrast, aluminium has no fatigue limit. Constant exposure to repeat loading will [always] ultimately lead to failure, no matter how low the actual stress magnitude experienced, for all practical purposes.

Faced with numerous failures, we were beginning to think that aluminium was a poor choice for lightweight boatbuilding material; it seemed cursed. It turns out that many of our problems -- and those of other builders -- were caused by applying steel design and building methods to aluminium, a very different metal.

Steel, a very forgiving material, has been around for centuries, and the techniques and procedures for working it are highly developed. As a boatbuilding material, aluminium is just decades old, so correct, consistent, aluminium fabrication methods are not as commonly shared.

It can be done right, and if working life limits are observed, it can be fine.

But it often isn't; and they often aren't.

My last words on the subject.
 
Buk___ said:
Chalo said:
It's like you have learned an engineering concept, but failed to understand its implications or importance in real world engineering.

Oh Chalo. I greatly respect your advice about bikes; but please don't think your 10 years as a bike mechanic, and un-cited, anecdotal witticisms make you qualified.

My 40 years of professionally qualified, real-world, wide ranging, experience vs your ...

Before my recent run as a bike wrench in my "retirement", I was in engineering development and machining for about 15 years-- culminating in almost 6 years as the fifth employee on the starting team of what is now a high profile private space program. My title there was "technical generalist". You know the tech billionaires whose space exploits are always in the news these days? One of them (my boss) introduced the other one to me, right in my machine shop. That by itself doesn't qualify me for anything, but it's an indication of the level of materials tech I have worked with and that I was expected to understand.

Just because I have come to prefer bikes, and bike people, to aerospace and aerospace people doesn't mean I'm unfamiliar with materials. Bikes are a great way to put theoretical knowledge to the test in a comparatively low-stakes game, thereby developing a deeper intuitive understanding of high performance materials than expensive, heavily engineered projects allow.
 
Mean-while, back at the ranch...... :D

So the down tube is an oval-ish shape and about 2.5 inches
2 and a half frame.JPG

and crack on the left side of the frame, (the longer of the cracks which are on both sides of the down tube) is 1.5 inches. If you guessed more then half way you were right.

1.5 in crack.jpg

So a once cleverly designed battery box,

Liahona.JPG
Now lays destroyed...(When I originally made it I didn't want anybody to be able to walk away with it when parked in public and I wasn't around. So, I made it impossible to remove without destroying it as it came out of the frame. Not too many tweakeres and thieves want to take that kind time and energy to get something.)

deadbox.JPG

But the cells and wiring was removed without un-wiring anything so I can keep it topped off until I figure out what next.
batterypack.JPG

As a side bar, these Headways have lasted. They have powered me over 12,000 miles. Just over 800 miles on my first build, the Trek 800 and over 11,000 miles on my now cracked Liahona. It is not without toll on the cells though. I used to get about 560wh out of them not I get 508wh before LVC. They were never really had an "as advertised" C rating, but now up the hills they really saaaaggggg!!!!!! Anyway it lasted more then two years :wink:

Anyway life goes on.

@Chalo: Thanks for the link, it is tempting, however at 19 inches it may be a little small for my big-ars Headway cells. And I am not sure if the BB is the right size for a straight change-over.

@LPF, Thanks for the welding offer, but getting up to SC from LA is a bit messy at the moment with the 101 closed, horrific mud slides and all. However the urethane casting tape sounds fun. I mean, if this frame is going to be put to pasture, a cheap fix for the purpose of having a peddle bike for short local runs or when I feel like taking the flat streets to the beach. I just might do that fix.

What I would probably do is wire brush the whole area clean of dirt, paint ect. Clean with acetone. Then, on both sides, screw and epoxy a small steel plate that spans both sides of the crack to keep the frame from separating at the crack, (one screw or bolt on either side of the crack, 4 fasteners total) and then apply the casting tape. Finish with paint and she would be ready for peddling pleasure. Could probably be done for under $25.00 usa.
 
Chalo said:
I was in engineering development and machining for about 15 years-- culminating in almost 6 years as the fifth employee on the starting team of what is now a high profile private space program. My title there was "technical generalist".

Then if you'd read either of the links above -- the non-wikipedia ones -- you'd not be calling this "theoretical". The engineering is real. I cite them not because I couldn't give anecdotal evidence of stuff I was personally involved with; but because I do not expect strangers on the internet to accept my word on my knowledge and experience. I cite them because they independently confirm what I've been saying.

Every time I mention "Al has no fatigue limit", you say: "All structural metals work harden; all of them fatigue." which is a fundamental mis-statement of the facts.

If a steel structure is design such that its expected maximum loading + some margin is less than the fatigue limit, it will not fatigue. Ever. (for all practical purposes.

Aluminium has no fatigue limit. If you cycle it enough times, it will always fail no matter how beefy you make it!

Your apparent ignorance of, or denial of, the (real-world) consequences of this widely known and stated fact, calls everything else into question. It is why aircraft manufacturers and operators adhere so closely to their rigorous maintenance schedules.

Of course, you can design things beefy enough, that the number of cycles required to reach that limit is high enough to exceed the expected life time due to other factors. But that goes completely against the fundamental reason for using aluminium in bike frames in the first place.

If you project a 10 year lifespan and design an aluminium bike frame to suffer orangutan-ing force levels, then you'd have to make it so beefy that there would be little or no savings over a steel frame constructed to the same specifications. And the steel frame would go on indefinitely barring accident or corrosion.

For racing frames renewed every year; and where the ... what 60 competition days a year for each rider? -- are spread over multiple frames, you can design to a 1+a bit safety margins and realise substantial savings. And for DH bikes ridden hard for 10 sunny weekends a year, you can design it to survive a few big knocks. But it isn't the big knocks that do for aluminium. It is the constant repetition of the standard loadings.

So, designing an aluminium frame to withstand the lesser, but constant and repetitious loads of the daily commute and last 10 years -- or even 5 -- is a substantial challenge as is.

But increase those constant repetitious loads by adding the weight of a hub motor or the twist of a mid-drive, and the increased shock loads from higher average speeds; and the weight transfers from higher accelerations and braking from higher speeds; and a frame that might have lasted 10 years daily commute under human power, will likely last 2 or 3 at most. And that's if it was designed for banging around -- a MTB, DH or XC.

Add those same increased loads to an aluminium frame designed to be weight weenie light -- for no good reason other than Strava status -- and you have a recipe for disaster.
 
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