new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
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wturber
1 MW
You can get that at Hobby King for $127 plus $32 shipping or $160.DrkAngel said:
Also, the Lipo, while unprotected, is about half the weight for a given amount of watt hours.
DrkAngel
1 GW
.
22.2V 20Ah Microstar LiPo $207.50 for 444Wh - ( unprotected ! ) - 5.304lb
37V 17.6Ah Samsung LiCo $100 for 651Wh - ( protected ! ) - 8.552lb
8.552lb ÷ 651Wh X 444Wh = 5.832lb
444Wh LiPo = 5.304lb - $207.50
444Wh LiCo = 5.832lb including BMS's - $68.28
22.2V 20Ah Microstar LiPo $207.50 for 444Wh - ( unprotected ! ) - 5.304lb
37V 17.6Ah Samsung LiCo $100 for 651Wh - ( protected ! ) - 8.552lb
8.552lb ÷ 651Wh X 444Wh = 5.832lb
444Wh LiPo = 5.304lb - $207.50
444Wh LiCo = 5.832lb including BMS's - $68.28
wturber
1 MW
DrkAngel said:
Yeah - brain fart. Somehow I was thinking 2kg per LiCo pack instead of 2lbs. But still, you can get the Lipo for a bit less than the $207.
latecurtis
100 MW
I used them with the variable controller many times. I only ran two batteries low. One of the 10.0 - 6S packs and one of the 8.0 - 6S packs. The one that puffed up was over 3.8 volts and not run low. It was a defective battery.
My dual motor 20" cargo bike will do close to 19 mph up a 5% upgrade and is 1,000 watts geared for 20 mph.
Yes I did learn to not run my batteries too low. It is why I run my old LiPo downtown and down the hills and my new Sona packs home and only 1.8 miles and up the little hills. I might just get a 12.0 or a 16.0 - 6S pack if they go on sale or I might just order more Sona packs but I think it is about time to build my own pack out of 26650 or 18650 backs and solder a BMS. It is what more experienced e bike builders do and I started with my first e bike the e zip back in 2013 so I am ready to advance to the next level.
You must have had to buy a lot to get that price. That is about $25 a pack and the cheapest pack close to that is $44 now.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-SPIM08HP-3-7V-8AH-LITHIUM-POLYMER-BATTERIES-25C-200A-SUPER-CELLS-24V-36V-48V/183036786061?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D44039%26meid%3D5b3652506e7341239b8e824b38be66e5%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D173071152948%26itm%3D183036786061&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850
What are these ? Is it a trick or a scam ? Please let me know if you can. Thanks.
never mind. They are used.
LC out.
DAND214
10 MW
DA sorry, I had to put my $.02 in. All I am trying to say to LC is to stay away from those 26650 cells. Knowing he has a hard time soldering and therefore he would just destroy the cells.
I love the new 18650 cells since they are getting cheaper but without tabs they need to be welded or put in those holders which adds cost.
LC, I just don't understand why you can be so damn stubborn, even more than my dog. As I had said, we are trying to help not to shoot you down. If and when I need new batteries, I will go with the 18650 cells, built or loose is still up in the air. I have over 200ah in 6s form from 18650 to LiPo. I really wonder if I will live long enough to destroy them
:lol:
As DA has suggested to run alarms, I have used them but have the controller and my CA that tells me when it's time to stop and pedal or walk.
Here is a pretty good deal on paper but they are no name cells.48v 13AH with a charger $215 shipped. The 36v is 205.
As said earlier, you are over geared and over weight. You should be getting at least 1 mile an 1AH. Since the AH capacity is low that will also cause more strain on the batteries.
I just hope you realize that we are not trying to burn you down,
Dan
I love the new 18650 cells since they are getting cheaper but without tabs they need to be welded or put in those holders which adds cost.
LC, I just don't understand why you can be so damn stubborn, even more than my dog. As I had said, we are trying to help not to shoot you down. If and when I need new batteries, I will go with the 18650 cells, built or loose is still up in the air. I have over 200ah in 6s form from 18650 to LiPo. I really wonder if I will live long enough to destroy them
:lol: As DA has suggested to run alarms, I have used them but have the controller and my CA that tells me when it's time to stop and pedal or walk.
Here is a pretty good deal on paper but they are no name cells.48v 13AH with a charger $215 shipped. The 36v is 205.
As said earlier, you are over geared and over weight. You should be getting at least 1 mile an 1AH. Since the AH capacity is low that will also cause more strain on the batteries.
I just hope you realize that we are not trying to burn you down,
Dan
DAND214
10 MW
was a dup
latecurtis
100 MW
Overweight yes, overgeared no. The Currie is geared perfect. That is the bike I ran last night.
I ran the old 8.0 LiPo pack down. On the way back I ran the two Sona packs. The 6S LiPo pack reads 3.77 to 3.81 volts. The SONA packs read 37.5 volts before I put them on the charger. I am about to charge the LiPo pack with a window open just in case.
I know why DA likes Currie e bikes. they ride like a dream. Very comfortable with my oversized seat. Mine is going on five years old and has it's third motor. It started with a 450 watt 24V overgeared to 36 volts and 675 watts. Then it got a 48V 1,000 watt Unite motor but only ran it at 36 volts and 750 watts and now has a 750 watt 480 rpm gear reduction motor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiWSm8K68TA
That sprocket calculater is right on the money. Also Dan. those were your old packs powering the Currie in that video. They read 50 volts with the multimeter and I don't see much sag there as 48 volts = 28 mph with that gearing. It just hits it for a split second towards the end of the video.
Yesterday on the way home it had no problem with the hills and the 36 volt packs are a perfect match for the one horsepower 36 volt 750 watt motor and at 480 rpm gearing is 20 mph. What was DAs bike geared for. 20 mph at 700 watts ?
My 24" Cargo bike with the 800 watt motor DA refered to it as the heavy hauled when I got that motor. It is geared low as it is a 20" wheel with an 800 watt hub motor. The Currie and the 24" cargo bike is the only two bikes I have been running.
The 20" dual motor cargo bike have 500 watts in the rear and 533 watts in the front for a total of 1,033 watts with 20 mph gearing.
The Schwinn has the broken spoke so is off the road. The torque arms removed and on the back of the 24" cargo bike with the 800 watt hub motor.
The 60 tooth spoke sprocket on the 20" wheel is only slightly overgeared. With the 1,000 watt 48 volt unite motor on a 20" wheel I did a video before the one with the Currie and hit 29 mph on the flat with the old 24" cargo bike also with the old packs. I scrapped the bike frame because it was bent from a hammer. :lol:
The gearing on that with a 20" wheel is 32.5 mph at 1,000 watts and 3,000 rpms. 24.5 mph at 750 watts and 2,250 rpms (above the bottom pic). That was and will be again my highest geared bike but still makes small hills with no problem. It went up Congress st. hill with three SLAs. I posted a picture of the alligater clips which were smoking bad and almost burnt a hole in the SLAs. :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XDaPzRJNAA
Well It looks like I might as well order one of those snap togeather kits and a BMS. Thanks.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-50V-100A-3000W-Programable-Reversible-DC-Motor-PWM-Control-Speed-Controller/371749056306?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D01fb441b096d4912845779809d33ba36%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D152787871621%26itm%3D371749056306&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Imperial-Electric-36v-DC-Permanent-Magnet-Motor-3-6-HP-2100-RPM/152860790848?epid=11012826631&hash=item2397369040:g:f98AAOSwAWlaVijZ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XF2ayWcJfxo
getting some money soon.
It is difficult to believe that nobody is using these Imperial electric motors for e bike builds. Common on the internet for about a year now. It is hard to find such a motor with the perfect rpms for a 40 tooth sprocket on the wheel and 11 tooth for the motor.
One of the reasons why I did not order sooner is the lack of 36 volt batteries. Now I have them and will order more .
Nobody seems to know if there is a motor sprocket for it though. It makes me go Hmmmm. possibly because you all think I will get seriouslly hurt at 45 mph. I know how to ride a bike and where to do 45 mph without incident. I am smarter than the average bear. :lol:
Please let me know. Thanks.
LC out.
Attachments
DAND214
10 MW
latecurtis said:
Overweight yes, overgeared no. The Currie is geared perfect. That is the bike I ran last night.
I ran the old 8.0 LiPo pack down. On the way back I ran the two Sona packs. The 6S LiPo pack reads 3.77 to 3.81 volts. The SONA packs read 37.5 volts before I put them on the charger. I am about to charge the LiPo pack with a window open just in case.
I know why DA likes Currie e bikes. they ride like a dream. Very comfortable with my oversized seat. Mine is going on five years old and has it's third motor. It started with a 450 watt 24V overgeared to 36 volts and 675 watts. Then it got a 48V 1,000 watt Unite motor but only ran it at 36 volts and 750 watts and now has a 750 watt 480 rpm gear reduction motor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiWSm8K68TA
That sprocket calculater is right on the money. Also Dan. those were your old packs powering the Currie in that video. They read 50 volts with the multimeter and I don't see much sag there as 48 volts = 28 mph with that gearing. It just hits it for a split second towards the end of the video.
Yesterday on the way home it had no problem with the hills and the 36 volt packs are a perfect match for the one horsepower 36 volt 750 watt motor and at 480 rpm gearing is 20 mph. What was DAs bike geared for. 20 mph at 700 watts ?
My 24" Cargo bike with the 800 watt motor DA refered to it as the heavy hauled when I got that motor. It is geared low as it is a 20" wheel with an 800 watt hub motor. The Currie and the 24" cargo bike is the only two bikes I have been running.
The 20" dual motor cargo bike have 500 watts in the rear and 533 watts in the front for a total of 1,033 watts with 20 mph gearing.
The Schwinn has the broken spoke so is off the road. The torque arms removed and on the back of the 24" cargo bike with the 800 watt hub motor.
The 60 tooth spoke sprocket on the 20" wheel is only slightly overgeared. With the 1,000 watt 48 volt unite motor on a 20" wheel I did a video before the one with the Currie and hit 29 mph on the flat with the old 24" cargo bike also with the old packs. I scrapped the bike frame because it was bent from a hammer. :lol:
The gearing on that with a 20" wheel is 32.5 mph at 1,000 watts and 3,000 rpms. 24.5 mph at 750 watts and 2,250 rpms (above the bottom pic). That was and will be again my highest geared bike but still makes small hills with no problem. It went up Congress st. hill with three SLAs. I posted a picture of the alligater clips which were smoking bad and almost burnt a hole in the SLAs. :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XDaPzRJNAA
Well It looks like I might as well order one of those snap togeather kits and a BMS. Thanks.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-50V-100A-3000W-Programable-Reversible-DC-Motor-PWM-Control-Speed-Controller/371749056306?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D01fb441b096d4912845779809d33ba36%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D152787871621%26itm%3D371749056306&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Imperial-Electric-36v-DC-Permanent-Magnet-Motor-3-6-HP-2100-RPM/152860790848?epid=11012826631&hash=item2397369040:g:f98AAOSwAWlaVijZ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XF2ayWcJfxo
getting some money soon.
It is difficult to believe that nobody is using these Imperial electric motors for e bike builds. Common on the internet for about a year now. It is hard to find such a motor with the perfect rpms for a 40 tooth sprocket on the wheel and 11 tooth for the motor.
One of the reasons why I did not order sooner is the lack of 36 volt batteries. Now I have them and will order more .
Nobody seems to know if there is a motor sprocket for it though. It makes me go Hmmmm. possibly because you all think I will get seriouslly hurt at 45 mph. I know how to ride a bike and where to do 45 mph without incident. I am smarter than the average bear. :lol:
Please let me know. Thanks.
LC out.
I guess weight has no factor when it comes to gearing. WTF 48lbs is all it weighs.
No the 45mph is not what kills you, it's that sudden stop your not expecting.
Dan
DrkAngel
1 GW
Damn! ... you have got to be the laziest person!latecurtis said:
Read shaft size, did ebay search and found hundreds!
latecurtis
100 MW
Sweet.
It is 6:21 PM - 1/28/18. Approx. 10 hours since my last post and the first thing on my mind when I woke up was the Imperial electric motor and going 45 mph. :lol: :lol:
I know that even with 2,700 watts 50 mph would be overgeared but 45 mph should be about perfect with that motor.
However a decent 1,500 watt rear hub motor would be good for 2,250 watts and 40 mph and I would not need a motor sprocket
Also the hub motor would be a lot easier to install. I am thinking of the Haro V3. Even with a 40 tooth I would need a rag or spoke kit which would probably fail miserably as to much torque for the spokes. I would need a sprocket which would work with a freewheel clutch and most of them use puny 8 mm chain or #25 chain. 2,700 watts and 3.6 Hp requires #420 motorcycle chain.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bicycle-Rear-Wheel-Kit-Conversion-E-Bike-Motor-26-48V-1500W-Motor-Hub/132336967195?epid=1286064734&hash=item1ecfe5de1b:g:XWIAAOSwUn9aBx2r
It looks like I would need a seperate 72 volt controller (More money)
My big question is the name brand. Has anyone here ordered from that company and would the quality of that hub motor handle 72 volts for short periods of time without damage ? If yes then it is a no brainer. If not then -https://www.ebay.com/itm/1800W-48V-DC-Brushless-Electric-Motor-Speed-Controller-Go-kart-E-Scooter-E-Bike/112758069728?hash=item1a40e799e0:g:QTUAAOSwzRFaXbIA
Not sure but looks like a misprint. It states that the rpm is 3,000 to 3,500 at 48 volts. At least 5 or 6 other listings state 4,500 rpms. That would make a huge difference. With 72 volts it will do 2,700 watts and a brushless motor will be more efficient that the brushed 2,700 watt motor. A rear belt drive with that motor would be an easy 45 mph.
I am not completly ruling out the Imperial electric motor however will need to find a 40 tooth #420 chain for the freewheel clutch. And a method for mounting such a beast. Like I said I am surprised nobody has attempted such a build as the voltage and rpms of the motor are ideal. Also the power exceeds most hub motors up to 1,500 watts even with 72 volts and 2,250 watts. However is 5 mph more worth all the trouble. That is the question I am asking myself. Thanks.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 40 mph. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1800W-48V-Brushless-DC-Electric-Motor-T8F-9T-ATV-Go-Kart-Scooter-Buggy-E-Bike/112758030136?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44039%26meid%3D34761530aab24176a9e620470aa548d9%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D112758069728%26itm%3D112758030136&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1
They do make the 1,800 watt brushless motor with speed and motor shaft options.
Also even taking sag into consideration at 38 volts the motor will produce 1,425 watts so should do about 33 mph with the 36 volt SONA packs I already have as long as there is no low LVC built into the 48 volt controller. If so Dan sent me a 36 volt brushless controller. That should work fine until I can build a 54 volt pack for 40 mph. NOT doing 72 volts and 2,700 watts just to get 5 mph faster. It could blow the motor up but 54 volts should be good. 54 volts = 2,025 watts. It should hit 40 mph.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-4-4Ah-Lithium-Battery-For-6-5-7-8-Board-2-Wheels-Balancing-board/112747210673?_trkparms=aid%3D777001%26algo%3DDISCO.FEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160801204525%26meid%3D19a3f3f631e749519aeb032a9de62e27%26pid%3D100651%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D112747210673&_trksid=p2481888.c100651.m4497&_trkparms=pageci%253A5bc4ca04-053c-11e8-9ec7-74dbd180fc9e%257Cparentrq%253A43d8e3921610a8666867028dfff82ed0%257Ciid%253A1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1800W-48V-Brushless-For-Electric-Motor-ATV-Go-Kart-Scooter-Razor-3300rpm-T8F-9T/132348478435?hash=item1ed09583e3:g:KTwAAOSw9gRaFKeA
I have no idea how it will hook up. I do not see a controller ? The wires for the controller coming from the motor ???
Dan. Will the 36 volt brushless controller work with this motor. I want to order the motor tommorow but not sure how to hook it up with those wires. However It is the best deal I have seen.
I am even thinking about ordering another Currie wheel for $120 so I can build the Haro - V3 and have full range of pedal gears.
Does anyone know if those are the same as the 36 volt packs I bought ? Please let me know.
LC out.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1800W-48V-Brushless-DC-Electric-Motor-T8F-9T-ATV-Go-Kart-Scooter-Buggy-E-Bike/112758030136?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44039%26meid%3D34761530aab24176a9e620470aa548d9%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D112758069728%26itm%3D112758030136&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1
They do make the 1,800 watt brushless motor with speed and motor shaft options.
Also even taking sag into consideration at 38 volts the motor will produce 1,425 watts so should do about 33 mph with the 36 volt SONA packs I already have as long as there is no low LVC built into the 48 volt controller. If so Dan sent me a 36 volt brushless controller. That should work fine until I can build a 54 volt pack for 40 mph. NOT doing 72 volts and 2,700 watts just to get 5 mph faster. It could blow the motor up but 54 volts should be good. 54 volts = 2,025 watts. It should hit 40 mph.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-4-4Ah-Lithium-Battery-For-6-5-7-8-Board-2-Wheels-Balancing-board/112747210673?_trkparms=aid%3D777001%26algo%3DDISCO.FEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160801204525%26meid%3D19a3f3f631e749519aeb032a9de62e27%26pid%3D100651%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D112747210673&_trksid=p2481888.c100651.m4497&_trkparms=pageci%253A5bc4ca04-053c-11e8-9ec7-74dbd180fc9e%257Cparentrq%253A43d8e3921610a8666867028dfff82ed0%257Ciid%253A1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1800W-48V-Brushless-For-Electric-Motor-ATV-Go-Kart-Scooter-Razor-3300rpm-T8F-9T/132348478435?hash=item1ed09583e3:g:KTwAAOSw9gRaFKeA
I have no idea how it will hook up. I do not see a controller ? The wires for the controller coming from the motor ???
Dan. Will the 36 volt brushless controller work with this motor. I want to order the motor tommorow but not sure how to hook it up with those wires. However It is the best deal I have seen.
I am even thinking about ordering another Currie wheel for $120 so I can build the Haro - V3 and have full range of pedal gears.
Does anyone know if those are the same as the 36 volt packs I bought ? Please let me know.
LC out.
Attachments
DAND214
10 MW
It should! You just need to get the wiring right. So what wattage is the motor? Controller is only 500w if I remember correctly. The controller is the limiting thing in the system,
You take a hub motor of any wattage and if the controller is less than the motor it will never get to max power. Any hub motor can be pushed at least 2x it's rating and sometime even more. Maybe not for a long run but a short sprint doesn't hurt the motor. A brushed motor is a different animal. You can overvolt them but won't last long if you didn't change the gearing to allow the motor reach it's efficient sweet spot. Also the brushes melt down faster when overvolted.
Dan
You take a hub motor of any wattage and if the controller is less than the motor it will never get to max power. Any hub motor can be pushed at least 2x it's rating and sometime even more. Maybe not for a long run but a short sprint doesn't hurt the motor. A brushed motor is a different animal. You can overvolt them but won't last long if you didn't change the gearing to allow the motor reach it's efficient sweet spot. Also the brushes melt down faster when overvolted.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
I do not know why it has so many wires unless the controller is inside the motor.
makes no sense.
Motor kits with similr motors have those wires too with controller.
Any motor should be only two wires. It looks like a scam of somekind. I can't order that.
I was born in 1965 not yesterday. Thanks.
Lc out.
makes no sense.
Motor kits with similr motors have those wires too with controller.
Any motor should be only two wires. It looks like a scam of somekind. I can't order that.
I was born in 1965 not yesterday. Thanks.
Lc out.
DAND214
10 MW
Are we talking about the brushless one?latecurtis said:
Look at your hub motor. It should have 3 large ones and 5 small ones. The larger ones are called the PHASE wires and the smaller ones are the HALL wires.
If a motor has only 2 wires it is a BRUSHED motor. You want a fast short run motor? Go to a junk yard and get a old Ford starter motor. I did that back in 1959! Put just about any sprocket you want on it and run extra large wires to it. All you need is a heavy heavy duty started button switch. Push the button and you are off to your 40mph ride, IF you don't wheelie out. That run might last 2 blocks as it will kill the battery real fast. Also will melt the wires. I did that on a home made Go-kart. Boy was it fast but only for a couple laps up and down my street. I was running a large car battery and just jumper cables for a switch.
Just kidding on the starter motor. It would do as I said but is a real short run and you will kill the battery if it doesn't kill you first.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. New batteries.
There so many choices for me to make. I could order two more 36 volt packs but still did not get a straight answer if those packs are any good that I posted.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-4-4Ah-Lithium-Battery-For-6-5-7-8-Board-2-Wheels-Balancing-board/112747210673?_trkparms=aid%3D777001%26algo%3DDISCO.FEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160801204525%26meid%3D19a3f3f631e749519aeb032a9de62e27%26pid%3D100651%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D112747210673&_trksid=p2481888.c100651.m4497&_trkparms=pageci%253A5bc4ca04-053c-11e8-9ec7-74dbd180fc9e%257Cparentrq%253A43d8e3921610a8666867028dfff82ed0%257Ciid%253A1
I could order the brushless motor , i could order a 1,500 watt Hub motor.
Or I could build another 20" e bike with the 48 volt 1,000 watt motor I already have with my choice of three controllers in my drawer.
I could do that and also order these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MultiStar-High-Capacity-10000mAh-4s-14-8v-LiPo-Battery-Pack-Long-Life-XT90-New/162878286820?hash=item25ec4d6be4:g:UGEAAOSwU91acOKk
36 volt packs are not going to get me anything close to 48 volts. I was NOT going to buy more LiPo and was accused of abusing them. It is true that two times I did run them low but that was it. The cheap packs are NOT very good and I ignored the warning about them. However the packs Dan sent are still working.
Since people keep packs in the freezer when not using I left them in the bike and is covered down on the front porch. When the weather warms up and I can open the window in the e bike workshop I will bring them up and charge them with a fan in the window blowing out to be on the safe side.
As far as the last 6.0 pack I bought on e bay (the cheaper no name brand) It was not abused. I did not run it low. It has been a single 8.0 pack for awhile. When I ran the 8.0 pack low back when I first got it I hooked them in parallel and ran them about a year. I seperated them when one of the cells in the one pack became unstable.
I ran the other pack awhile and thought it was stable but when recharging I see that one of the cells is 4.22 volts and the rest are all around 4.15 volts. I am thinking about ordering two of the 10.0 multistars. I may still order those 36 volt packs in question next month but would like to know what you guys think about those and the Multistars. Please let me know.
LC out
There so many choices for me to make. I could order two more 36 volt packs but still did not get a straight answer if those packs are any good that I posted.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-4-4Ah-Lithium-Battery-For-6-5-7-8-Board-2-Wheels-Balancing-board/112747210673?_trkparms=aid%3D777001%26algo%3DDISCO.FEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160801204525%26meid%3D19a3f3f631e749519aeb032a9de62e27%26pid%3D100651%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D112747210673&_trksid=p2481888.c100651.m4497&_trkparms=pageci%253A5bc4ca04-053c-11e8-9ec7-74dbd180fc9e%257Cparentrq%253A43d8e3921610a8666867028dfff82ed0%257Ciid%253A1
I could order the brushless motor , i could order a 1,500 watt Hub motor.
Or I could build another 20" e bike with the 48 volt 1,000 watt motor I already have with my choice of three controllers in my drawer.
I could do that and also order these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MultiStar-High-Capacity-10000mAh-4s-14-8v-LiPo-Battery-Pack-Long-Life-XT90-New/162878286820?hash=item25ec4d6be4:g:UGEAAOSwU91acOKk
36 volt packs are not going to get me anything close to 48 volts. I was NOT going to buy more LiPo and was accused of abusing them. It is true that two times I did run them low but that was it. The cheap packs are NOT very good and I ignored the warning about them. However the packs Dan sent are still working.
Since people keep packs in the freezer when not using I left them in the bike and is covered down on the front porch. When the weather warms up and I can open the window in the e bike workshop I will bring them up and charge them with a fan in the window blowing out to be on the safe side.
As far as the last 6.0 pack I bought on e bay (the cheaper no name brand) It was not abused. I did not run it low. It has been a single 8.0 pack for awhile. When I ran the 8.0 pack low back when I first got it I hooked them in parallel and ran them about a year. I seperated them when one of the cells in the one pack became unstable.
I ran the other pack awhile and thought it was stable but when recharging I see that one of the cells is 4.22 volts and the rest are all around 4.15 volts. I am thinking about ordering two of the 10.0 multistars. I may still order those 36 volt packs in question next month but would like to know what you guys think about those and the Multistars. Please let me know.
LC out
wturber
1 MW
Yeah - If I knew, I'd say. But I just don't know...
DAND214
10 MW
LC, you know the Multistars are only 4s. As for the other ones I don't know either. You didn't know about the sona packs and you ordered them. The specs are good but that doesn't mean they are real specs. No name cells is the major drawback.
As for the motor, buy the 1500 hub motor.
Dan
As for the motor, buy the 1500 hub motor.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
Thanks as I was only looking at the price. I did not see the 4S.
As for the 1,500 watt motor. The only problem I have ordering it is the controller. It is only 48 volts and needs a 72 volt controller for 40 mph and 2,250 watts which is about minimum power for 40 mph.
A 72 volt controller will not be cheap. Also running the motor at 72 volts all the time may damage the motor. That is my question. If I only go 20 or 30 mph most of the time and only full throttle once in awhile for a minute or two , will the motor be ok to run at 72 volts all the time ?
The 1,800 watt brushless motor will only need 54 volts to get 2,025 watts for 40 mph but should work with the stock 48 volt controller which is not as expensive as a 72 volt controller but if I want pedal gears will need another expensive Currie wheel for $120.
I am not sure what I will order and may just wait until I can save up for a 3,000 watt 72 volt hub motor. It will last longer and mabye even do 45 mph.
I am not sure but please let me know about running a 48 volt hub motor at 72 volts. If it wont hurt it then I might save a lot of money if I can get a good deal on a 72 volt controller as the 3,000 watt hub motors are twice as much money. thanks.LC out.
DAND214
10 MW
I think I have already said, voltage is not the concern, it's the controller. Right now I have a MAC that is running 18s or 66.66 nominal 75 hoc. DD hub motors are more durable than a geared one and they can run almost any voltage you want. Once again, it's the controller to worry about.
Dan
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
https://www.amazon.com/3000W-Brushless-Controller-Electric-Controller/dp/B01N1IZJCL/ref=pd_sbs_468_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N1IZJCL&pd_rd_r=1PGZA2XGAFEVEWATTXDG&pd_rd_w=8KOVQ&pd_rd_wg=SnBj0&psc=1&refRID=1PGZA2XGAFEVEWATTXDG
I posted one last night from ali express that was $20 cheaper but only 20 amp to 45 amp. This one is 30 to 60 amp so I deleted the other one and am looking at this one.
I checked and they do not have a better deal on a 1,500 watt motor than e bay. It will be an expensive build. Not possible any time soon. I got a $500 electric bill.
I might be able to afford the controller first though if it will work with any hub motor. I have never delt with any controller greater than 48 volts which came with the hub motors I bought. This is new for me and real power = 72 volts and > 2 killowatts. However I will need to know for sure so need to get a GOOD controller. Not something that does not hook up or wont work.
I cant do 48 volts as I do not have 48 volt batteries except for the old packs which won't hold up long with > 2 killowatts. They are better for the cargo bike and the 800 watt hub motor. Mabye the 1,000 watt motor for short runs when I fix the Schwinn. I am looking for another deal on 36 volt packs.
All my e bikes will run the 36 volt packs and are easy to charge. That is why 72 volts is my best option as I may never order 6S LiPo again if I can get more 36 volt packs. These are broke in now and do the downtown trip and are > 36 volts when I get home.
If the 72 volt controller will work for any hub motor I will order it first and mabye two more 36 volt batteries. Please let me know.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26-1500W-Rear-Wheel-48V-Electric-Bicycle-Bike-Motor-Conversion-Kit-Hub-Cycling/322269304808?epid=1286064734&hash=item4b08bf57e8:g:XuEAAOSwBjdaBoQR:sc:Other!12303!US!-1
Thanks.
LC out.
I posted one last night from ali express that was $20 cheaper but only 20 amp to 45 amp. This one is 30 to 60 amp so I deleted the other one and am looking at this one.
I checked and they do not have a better deal on a 1,500 watt motor than e bay. It will be an expensive build. Not possible any time soon. I got a $500 electric bill.
I might be able to afford the controller first though if it will work with any hub motor. I have never delt with any controller greater than 48 volts which came with the hub motors I bought. This is new for me and real power = 72 volts and > 2 killowatts.
However I will need to know for sure so need to get a GOOD controller. Not something that does not hook up or wont work.I cant do 48 volts as I do not have 48 volt batteries except for the old packs which won't hold up long with > 2 killowatts. They are better for the cargo bike and the 800 watt hub motor. Mabye the 1,000 watt motor for short runs when I fix the Schwinn. I am looking for another deal on 36 volt packs.
All my e bikes will run the 36 volt packs and are easy to charge. That is why 72 volts is my best option as I may never order 6S LiPo again if I can get more 36 volt packs. These are broke in now and do the downtown trip and are > 36 volts when I get home.
If the 72 volt controller will work for any hub motor I will order it first and mabye two more 36 volt batteries. Please let me know.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26-1500W-Rear-Wheel-48V-Electric-Bicycle-Bike-Motor-Conversion-Kit-Hub-Cycling/322269304808?epid=1286064734&hash=item4b08bf57e8:g:XuEAAOSwBjdaBoQR:sc:Other!12303!US!-1
Thanks.
LC out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. LVC garbage. F- LVC
The 800 watt hub motor wont work with the SONA packs. It worked fine with the old SLAs I threw out. Must be a volt or two difference.
Either that or the Hub motor is shot. I wanted to use it for the downtown trip in the snow but had to take the Currie. The Sona packs worked awsome with the brushed variable controller. Went thru some deep snow spinning around with the Currie feet on the ground and the chain did come loose on the way back from the beer store when I got down there with a 20 pack of bud bottles in my cheap
$6 Wallyworld back pack and a six of bush on the handel bars. :lol:
Was a 5 minute fix with the porch lite , a adjustable wrench and 15 mill black fancy $100 tool kit my friend bought for his gas rice rocket. :lol:
Locked it in his basement and hooked the charger up and was a full charge and 10 to 15 uphill and 20+ flat where the roads were clear. About 3 to 5 mph where the snow and potholes were.
Anyway I could definatlly live without LVC. Hopefully it is that and not the $260 - 20" 48V 800W Hub motor.
http://prntscr.com/icq653
Also whoever reads this can you click the link and see the Currie ? It is Lightshot program. We use it in Pirates a lot.
One thing DA and I agree on is our love for the Currie ezip Bikes. A Pioneer of e bikes. They are truelly awsome and smooth to ride. Mine has been modified three times I think.
For me it was my first and most successful build. Tonight the Currie came thru snow ice and the hell of winter without screws thru the tires. :lol: And got me back home. I love my Currie. Thanks.
LC out.
PS. It has to be that the 800 watt hub motor or controller is shot. The math does not work. 13.3 * 3 = 39.9. That is three fully charged SLAs. The SONA packs are 41.5 Volts with a full charge. I guess the 800 watt 48 volt hub motor and controller are shot.
Makes no sense to be LVC as I ran the same motor and controller when it was on the front of the DimondBack for about two years with SLAs which when fully charged are only a little over 39 volts and these SONA packs are over 41 volts with a full charge.
I guess I will hook up the 44 volt packs and see but am not taking a ride tonight as everything is solid ice.
There was not much traffic so went to middle of road which looked like black ice but not and went a half a block and back and runs perfect on Dan's old packs. I really don't get it. There is no way three SLA batteries can be over 40 volts when 13.3 volts is the maximum charge. I am really confused right now. It makes no sense at all why it wont run on the SONA packs.
Please let me know. Someone. I really need to build a 54 volt pack out of 26650 LIFEPO4 cells. I doubt the Schwinn will run on the SONA packs either. That also was run dozens of times with three 10Ah SLAs in series. I just don't get it. I have no SLAs left as I threw them all out when I got the SONA packs. I wish I still had them so I could test the voltage. There is no way they could be over 40 volts.
I could go back thru the pages and find several videos using SLA batteries with these 48 volt brushless controllers. Also the voltage on three SLAs in series should be somewhere also. I just don't feel like searching right now. Thanks.
LC out.
The 800 watt hub motor wont work with the SONA packs. It worked fine with the old SLAs I threw out. Must be a volt or two difference.
Either that or the Hub motor is shot. I wanted to use it for the downtown trip in the snow but had to take the Currie. The Sona packs worked awsome with the brushed variable controller. Went thru some deep snow spinning around with the Currie feet on the ground and the chain did come loose on the way back from the beer store when I got down there with a 20 pack of bud bottles in my cheap
$6 Wallyworld back pack and a six of bush on the handel bars. :lol:
Was a 5 minute fix with the porch lite , a adjustable wrench and 15 mill black fancy $100 tool kit my friend bought for his gas rice rocket. :lol:
Locked it in his basement and hooked the charger up and was a full charge and 10 to 15 uphill and 20+ flat where the roads were clear. About 3 to 5 mph where the snow and potholes were.
Anyway I could definatlly live without LVC. Hopefully it is that and not the $260 - 20" 48V 800W Hub motor.
http://prntscr.com/icq653
Also whoever reads this can you click the link and see the Currie ? It is Lightshot program. We use it in Pirates a lot.
One thing DA and I agree on is our love for the Currie ezip Bikes. A Pioneer of e bikes. They are truelly awsome and smooth to ride. Mine has been modified three times I think.
For me it was my first and most successful build. Tonight the Currie came thru snow ice and the hell of winter without screws thru the tires. :lol: And got me back home. I love my Currie. Thanks.
LC out.
PS. It has to be that the 800 watt hub motor or controller is shot. The math does not work. 13.3 * 3 = 39.9. That is three fully charged SLAs. The SONA packs are 41.5 Volts with a full charge. I guess the 800 watt 48 volt hub motor and controller are shot.
Makes no sense to be LVC as I ran the same motor and controller when it was on the front of the DimondBack for about two years with SLAs which when fully charged are only a little over 39 volts and these SONA packs are over 41 volts with a full charge.
I guess I will hook up the 44 volt packs and see but am not taking a ride tonight as everything is solid ice.
There was not much traffic so went to middle of road which looked like black ice but not and went a half a block and back and runs perfect on Dan's old packs. I really don't get it. There is no way three SLA batteries can be over 40 volts when 13.3 volts is the maximum charge. I am really confused right now. It makes no sense at all why it wont run on the SONA packs.
Please let me know. Someone. I really need to build a 54 volt pack out of 26650 LIFEPO4 cells. I doubt the Schwinn will run on the SONA packs either. That also was run dozens of times with three 10Ah SLAs in series. I just don't get it. I have no SLAs left as I threw them all out when I got the SONA packs. I wish I still had them so I could test the voltage. There is no way they could be over 40 volts.
I could go back thru the pages and find several videos using SLA batteries with these 48 volt brushless controllers. Also the voltage on three SLAs in series should be somewhere also. I just don't feel like searching right now. Thanks.
LC out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VE48WMBFgc
Those new SONA junk batteries were supposed to be equel or better than SLAs and they are not.
There is the video to prove it. The same motor and controller working perfect with three SLAs did not work with the SONA packs the other night and were fully charged. If I would have known that I would have never ordered them.
The SONA packs are worthless with brushless 48 volt controllers. I can only use them with brushed chain drive motors. I really can't figure out why. Mabye it was moisture in the throttle. Does anyone have any idea. If so please let me know. Thanks.
PS. What about these batteries. Does anyone know if they might work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-20-DC12V-9800mAh-Super-Rechargeable-Portable-Li-ion-Battery-US-Battery-Pack/112548898729?hash=item1a346fe7a9:m:m0IQ6YXKUCCb37f3W3Fg_7A
Please let me know.
LC out.
Those new SONA junk batteries were supposed to be equel or better than SLAs and they are not.
There is the video to prove it. The same motor and controller working perfect with three SLAs did not work with the SONA packs the other night and were fully charged. If I would have known that I would have never ordered them.
The SONA packs are worthless with brushless 48 volt controllers. I can only use them with brushed chain drive motors. I really can't figure out why. Mabye it was moisture in the throttle. Does anyone have any idea. If so please let me know. Thanks.
PS. What about these batteries. Does anyone know if they might work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-20-DC12V-9800mAh-Super-Rechargeable-Portable-Li-ion-Battery-US-Battery-Pack/112548898729?hash=item1a346fe7a9:m:m0IQ6YXKUCCb37f3W3Fg_7A
Please let me know.
LC out.
wturber
1 MW
I'm not sure what I just watched. Were you running the SLAs or the Sonas?
Either way, if the Sonas are working less well, my guess would be that you are running into either a BMS cut-off issue, a voltage drop due to too much current drain, or a combo of both. The SLAs have no such cut-off.
Keep in mind that you are running 36 volt batteries on a 48 volt system. Mine don't work well on my 48 volt system normally either. That's why I use a voltage booster. With the booster and appropriate current limiting, my 36 volt LG packs work really well.
Either way, if the Sonas are working less well, my guess would be that you are running into either a BMS cut-off issue, a voltage drop due to too much current drain, or a combo of both. The SLAs have no such cut-off.
Keep in mind that you are running 36 volt batteries on a 48 volt system. Mine don't work well on my 48 volt system normally either. That's why I use a voltage booster. With the booster and appropriate current limiting, my 36 volt LG packs work really well.
latecurtis
100 MW
Thank you. That would explain it. The BMS is causing the issue and not the brushless controller for the 800 watt hub motor.
What makes no sense is that the BMS does not do it with the variable controller and the 750 watt gear reduction motor on the Currie. I have not ran it at full throttle though but have got close to 20 mph with the Currie and SONA packs.
Also what I don't get is I was just taking off so was easy on the throttle and the power just was not there. It would not even go 5 mph. The 800 watt hub motor is only 50 watts more than the brushed chain drive motor and variable controller. I still am puzzled and will try it again on a nice day with my video camera and try to get to the bottom of this.
Also how much was the voltage booster? I know nothing about them so if you could send me a link I will look at it and if the price is not too steep I may order one or more. Do they make one which will boost 36 volts to 60 volts or 44V LiPo to 60 volts ? please let me know and thanks for posting.
LC out.
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