New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
jbalat said:
What a hopeless design. Those silly little springs look rife for replacement with some linear springs[img=https://www.smalley.com/sites/default/files/sites/default/files/Linear-Expanders-680.jpg]linear springs[/img].
It's hard to get a good impression of size, but these guys might have a standard part that would work.
snowbiker said:
TSDZ2 is not a specific model number but a motor family so it is hard to know what you have. If you happen to have the 8 wire version of the controller and VLCD5 display then you can use the throttle without the torque sensor. Recycles sells an 8 wire version of the controller for $40-45 if you need to upgrade.
Attached is a technical doc that I found to use in hooking up a cycle analyst. You may find it useful. This is a torque sensor that TongSheng sells for hub drives but is likely similar to the one in the TSDZ2.
View attachment TongSheng external crank torque sensor.pdf
itchyfoot42
100 mW
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2017
- Messages
- 38
Mine had that problem. Turned out that the controller in my 48V system had a high voltage limit that kept it from using my fully charged 52V battery (58 volts ) . Discharging to 55.5 volts enabled the motor to work. That luckily happens to be the charge I get from the 80% setting on my Luna Cycle charger.
Waynemarlow
10 kW
Sadly Recycles are unable to supply the 58 volt controllers and I may have to look at other means. It would seem a shame to only charge the batteries to the 80% capacity but I guess it would increase the life of the battery.
I posted on ES separately enquiring about how to install a Cycle Analyst to a TSDZ2 (with 8 pin and throttle). There is a wiring diagram but it is in Chinese, otherwise Justin from Grin might be able to help me. I remember seeing a video of someone with a TSDZ2 and CA but have yet to find the link. I have searched through this thread but must've missed it as can't think of where else it would have been posted. If someone has tried this, knows the link to the video or could translate the Chinese wiring diagram then I might be able to proceed 
extrasilver said:
To have good chainline on single speed setup you will have to use dished chainring. I personally couldn't find any dished chainring other than stock 42t chainring which come with the motor. Even those who sell other size chainrings for TSDZ2 on Aliexpress for around £20 actually sell standard flat 110bcd chainrings.
Anyway I think that TSDZ2 with single speed is not the best combination possible because if you want to go fast with small sprocket on the back wheel you'll have to put a lot of strain on the motor from the start.
I personally have TSDZ2 setup with 50t flat chainring:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chainrings/compact-chainring-steel-110mm-bcd-5-arm-silver-50t/
And Shimano Nexus 3 speed hub with 18t 10mm offset sprocket :
http://www.forgecustomcycles.com/cu...ay-12/related_product-519.html?limitstart=168
I found this combination is the best possible for single speed bike frame
Have you guys had any experience with the new style speed sensor? I bought a 48V 750W TSDZ2 and it came with a new style of speed sensor that has a Y connection (to plug a rear light I believe).
It does not have an adjustment for bringing the sensor close to the magnet. The best I could do (see image) was about 1cm of distance between the two.
I'm waiting for my battery so I don't know yet whether this will work or not. I was wondering if any of you guys had used this type of sensor, and if by chance it's much more sensitive than the old style so the magnet does not need to be close to it...
I haven't found an installation manual that references this style of speed sensor by the way...
It does not have an adjustment for bringing the sensor close to the magnet. The best I could do (see image) was about 1cm of distance between the two.
I'm waiting for my battery so I don't know yet whether this will work or not. I was wondering if any of you guys had used this type of sensor, and if by chance it's much more sensitive than the old style so the magnet does not need to be close to it...
I haven't found an installation manual that references this style of speed sensor by the way...
That doesn't look close enough to me, at least for how I run mine, as close to touching as I'm comfortable with seems to give the best performance. I would suggest putting a shim under the sensor to get it closer, no reason it won't stay there if you use the right shim stock.
Hi All,
I bought the 48V 500W unit last year and am just getting round to start putting it on the bike. It seems to me the battery wires are much to thin to carry 15Amps. My battery pack came with 12AWG wires and these look more like 20AWG! Has anyone had any problems with these thin wires. If not why are the battery pack wires so much bigger,
Thanks in advance.
I bought the 48V 500W unit last year and am just getting round to start putting it on the bike. It seems to me the battery wires are much to thin to carry 15Amps. My battery pack came with 12AWG wires and these look more like 20AWG! Has anyone had any problems with these thin wires. If not why are the battery pack wires so much bigger,
Thanks in advance.
niklas_j69
100 µW
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2017
- Messages
- 9
I think you'll be fine, have both the 52v and 48v system installed on different bikes and the 48v has a much closer fit but also gives me more problems than the 52v where the distance between is something like yours, works great.jeanl said:
niklas_j69
100 µW
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2017
- Messages
- 9
jeanl said:Got the battery, installed it, everything's working just fine with the 1cm gap between the magnet and the sensor.jeanl said:Awesome thanks! I'll let you guys know how it goes. Can't wait to get my batteries!niklas_j69 said:
Great! Seem like 1-1.5cm distance is the sweet spot for it, have less than 0,5cm on my 48v bike and that one is very sensetive if the magnet's just a little bit out of angle.... Enjoy your ride!
Hi all, i'm new in this forum.
I have built a TSDZ2 to a Giant Revive 20'' semi-recumbent bike.
It was not so simple, because i needed to grind a little bit on the frame to fit it...
Now the bike is almost ready, but i have some small problems to solve:
1. I want to change the front chainring from stock 42T to 52T
2. I want to change the bulbs int the front and tail lamps.
I need some help in the second task: the bike has currently a 2.4W front, and a 0,6W tail bulb in the lamps.
The current coming from the sensor cable is not enough to drive these bulbs.
If i connect only the tail bulb, its works, but if i connect only the front, it's not.
So the current should less than 0,4 A (6V x 0.4A = 2.4W)
I tried to read the whole forum, in one post somebody wrote the current is 0.5A (it means 3W), based on this the 2,4W front lamp should have worked.
So anybody knows the max current of the 6V lamp output?
I'd like to buy LED bulbs instead of the current halogen bulbs, so i should know how much is the maximum watt of the bulbs.
Thanks
I have built a TSDZ2 to a Giant Revive 20'' semi-recumbent bike.
It was not so simple, because i needed to grind a little bit on the frame to fit it...
Now the bike is almost ready, but i have some small problems to solve:
1. I want to change the front chainring from stock 42T to 52T
2. I want to change the bulbs int the front and tail lamps.
I need some help in the second task: the bike has currently a 2.4W front, and a 0,6W tail bulb in the lamps.
The current coming from the sensor cable is not enough to drive these bulbs.
If i connect only the tail bulb, its works, but if i connect only the front, it's not.
So the current should less than 0,4 A (6V x 0.4A = 2.4W)
I tried to read the whole forum, in one post somebody wrote the current is 0.5A (it means 3W), based on this the 2,4W front lamp should have worked.
So anybody knows the max current of the 6V lamp output?
I'd like to buy LED bulbs instead of the current halogen bulbs, so i should know how much is the maximum watt of the bulbs.
Thanks
Sorry I don't know the answer to your question, but even a 1W LED bulb will be very bright so I don't think you run any risk of overloading the power supply. You could spec your bulbs so the sum is less than what's currently working...mentat said:
mentat said:
Having a 2.4W and a .6W taillamp sounds to me like a dynamo-hub setup. They work on AC, and I'm not sure they will work properly on a DC setup.
You can either buy the proper DC-bike lights or just use a dynamo front hub. Coupled with some good quality lights a dynamo hub (especially on a 20" wheel) is a a pretty simple and bombproof setup compared to trying to wiring it into your e-bike battery.
On the other hand, AXA, Büsch & Muller and other proper bike light manufacturers usually have a DC version of they're top end dynamo lights. Steer clear of cheap lights trying to impress you with lots of lumens. Lumen doesn't mean a thing unless you know what the beam looks like. Illuminance (lumens per square meter) is a much better measurement. The top of the line DC bike lights should give you in excess of 100 lux. My mediocre front light connected to a dynamo hub is rated to 40 lux and lights up the road nicely (but could have had a little wider beam for riding in the forest) with a clear cut-off at the top so as to not dazzle oncoming traffic. In comparison the german StVO legislation on bike lights requires a minimum of 10 lux (afaik).
James Broadhurst
100 W
These new speed sensors are very sensitive. Set them up at the old style 5mm distance and there is so much noise that it registers a speed up to its absolute maximum of 100 kmph.jeanl said:
I just came across this quite recently; I’ve set up several with the new sensor without even thinking about the distance. This last one was set with well over 10mm separation.
I think you’ll be fine.
